Self-locking differential for VAZ 2114 installation

Dismantling the box

If you can hear an incomprehensible noise in the gearbox, the car becomes difficult to change gears or does not want to move at all, you may need to remove this mechanism.
Do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2109 vehicle can be done in any garage, having all the necessary tools at hand. The VAZ 2109 has a rather complicated gearbox removal, so you should prepare for this procedure in advance. The box is located deep enough, so it is almost impossible to remove it alone. In this case, you may need special crowbars, the help of other people and some tools in order to properly disconnect it. In general, you can seek help from a service center, where the service will be carried out using special equipment. But, you can repair it yourself by removing it carefully without damaging other important parts.

High-quality oil is the key to reliable operation of the gearbox

Repair manual for VAZ 2108, 2109, 2114, 2115 Wires and fuses
Despite the unpretentiousness of domestic cars, their units require proper care and prevention. For proper operation of the gearbox, high-quality oil is necessary. The best option for the VAZ 2114 gearbox is mineral oil. Its only drawback is the high price. Of the synthetic and semi-synthetic options, it is better to choose the first one.

When using it, you need to clean the seals in time. Oil category GL-4 is the most suitable type for the VAZ 2114. To ensure reliable and uninterrupted operation of the unit, it is necessary to check the oil level at least 3 times a week. The easiest way to check is to use a dipstick. To do this, you need to place the car on a flat surface.

15-20 minutes after stopping, pull out the dipstick, wipe it dry and insert it back. Then remove the dipstick and record the oil level, which should be at the maximum level. If the amount of oil is insufficient, top it up and check the level again. Due to the fact that the fifth gear is located higher than the others, it often lacks lubrication.

Experts recommend maintaining the oil level slightly above the maximum mark, which will extend the life of the gearbox. It is better to entrust the oil change to specialists, because the gearbox is one of the main units of the vehicle. You can carry out the procedure yourself, but you should adhere to the following recommendations.

1. In case of replacing oil of one brand with another, the box must be flushed.
2. Place the machine on the inspection hole.
3. Remove the cap and clean it.
4. Clean the breather and its holes with a brush.
5. Prepare a container for draining and unscrew the dipstick.
6. Tighten the plug and fill in new oil through the dipstick socket.
7. Screw the dipstick and put on the cap.

The price of a gearbox for a VAZ 2114 with all parts and oil is quite high. There is no point in indicating a specific figure, since the price is constantly changing

But you shouldn’t skimp on this important device: not only the operation of the engine, but also the safety of the driver and passengers depends on the reliable operation of the gearbox. To save money, you can purchase a used box

But it is better to buy such a unit from a reliable supplier, otherwise there is no guarantee that the parts will not contain hidden defects and malfunctions.

Timely repairs and preventive measures allow VAZ 2114 owners to extend the service life and maintain the quality of the gearbox. This approach is the optimal solution for the uninterrupted operation of the unit and the engine as a whole. You should not neglect basic rules, such as timely oil changes, tightening fastening elements and eliminating minor problems.

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Sequence of actions when repairing a gearbox on a VAZ 2109

How to replace the idle speed control on a VAZ 2108, 2109, 2114

When carrying out an operation such as manual transmission repair, you must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

1. It is necessary to remove the gearbox (it should be noted that repair of the gearbox on a VAZ 2107 is carried out approximately according to the same principle). After removing the gearbox, you need to clean it from dirt using a rag and diesel fuel. The oil level dipstick is removed, after which the clutch housing is installed vertically. The clutch cable bracket must be removed. Unscrew the corresponding nuts and remove the back cover.
2. It is necessary to unscrew the bolt securing the fifth gear fork. After this, you need to secure the shafts from turning and unscrew the nuts securing the primary and secondary shafts.
3. The fifth gear gear is removed along with the fork and synchronizer from the secondary shaft. The thrust plate is removed from the synchronizer, and the fork is removed from the coupling groove. Next, the gear and ring are removed, after which the bushing is removed.
4. The bushing is removed from the input shaft. Then you need to use an impact screwdriver to unscrew the four screws and remove the thrust washer from the secondary shaft.
5. The retaining rings of the shaft bearings are removed, after which the retainer balls are removed. The reverse locking plug is unscrewed, the O-ring is removed and the locking spring is removed. The box needs to be tilted and the locking ball removed.
6. You need to unscrew the twelve nuts and the crankcase mounting bolt. The gearbox housing should be separated from the clutch housing using a screwdriver. Subsequently, you need to unscrew the bolts of the gear shift forks (1-2, 3-4).
7. After the rods and forks are removed, you need to remove the reverse gear axis. It should be noted that gearbox repair includes, first of all, disassembling the unit. However, without this, inspecting spare parts and determining their performance is impossible.
8. Remove the intermediate gear, then remove the input and output shafts. The differential is removed from the clutch housing. Next you need to remove the gear mechanism. Then the gearbox is disassembled in the following sequence:
   clutch housing magnet,
9. housing with speedometer drive gear,
10. reverse switch,
11. secondary shaft bearing,
12. sump,
13. input shaft bearing.
14. In general, repairing a gearbox on a VAZ 2109 consists of replacing all worn-out spare parts. In particular, it is definitely necessary to replace all pressed out bearings. So, at this stage of work it is necessary to press new front shaft bearings into the clutch housing.
15. After the gear rod is removed, you can repair the gearbox, that is, directly replace all damaged and worn components in the following sequence:
    protective cover for the rod hinge,
16. clutch housing (small damage can be cleaned with sandpaper),
17. after checking the bearing seats in the clutch housing, they must be replaced if their condition is unsatisfactory,
18. roller bearings,
19. gear shift rods,
20. axle seals,
21. input shaft oil seal,
22. magnet (it should be cleaned first),
23. The planes of the clutch and gearbox housings must be cleaned of old sealant. After which the gearbox is assembled.
24. The shafts are installed in the clutch housing. After that, all rubbing elements are generously lubricated with oil and the magnet is installed in place. Sealant should be applied to the gearbox housing and clutch housing. In addition, the gearbox oil may need to be changed. After this, the work is considered completed.

Disassembling the gearbox on a VAZ 2109 - video instructions

https://youtube.com/watch?v=4nkUWTDiy1o

After the gear rod is removed, you can repair the gearbox, that is, directly replace all damaged and worn components in the following sequence:

How to do

The easiest way is to permanently lock the differential completely. But such a homemade blocking is acceptable for cars driving only off-road. For example, for rally-raid cars. To implement the idea, you need to remove the unit equipped with the differential and disassemble it. Then weld the satellites to the axles. Fixing the gears will allow the mechanism to divide the rotation speed between the axle shafts only in a ratio of 50 to 50. Making a limited slip differential with your own hands is a little more difficult than simply fixing the satellites. But such a modernization will not only improve the vehicle’s maneuverability in mud and snow, but will also not change the operation of the unit on hard surfaces. One version of such a device can be assembled from two brass or bronze bushings and a spring. Their sizes will depend on which vehicle transmission you are upgrading. Therefore, work begins with removing the assembly and disassembling the planetary gear. After this, you can take measurements, order the production of bushings and select a spring of suitable dimensions.

You will find out whether it is stiff enough after assembly by testing your homemade product. The spring is designed to press the pinion gears against the differential housing. Because of this, under the influence of friction, the satellites will rotate more slowly around their axis. The greater the friction force, the more evenly the speed of rotation of the driveshaft will be divided between the axle shafts. Metal bushings are needed to prevent contact of the satellites with the spring.

VAZ 2115 Gear shift

Repair and maintenance manual for Hyundai Accent

Gear shift and lever position

Manual box

The gear shift positions are shown on the handle. Before engaging reverse gear, you need to lift the ring under the lever handle.

When changing gears, fully depress the clutch pedal and then gently release it. It is not recommended to drive a car with one hand on the gearshift lever, as this increases wear on the gearbox.

When shifting from fifth to fourth gear, do not press the lever laterally, so as not to accidentally engage second gear, which will cause the engine to exceed the permissible speed and damage it.

Before engaging reverse gear, make sure that the car is at rest and your foot is not on the gas pedal. Move the lever from the neutral position to the right until it stops, and then engage the rear

move.

The table below shows the driving speeds at which the next gear should be engaged for the greatest fuel economy.

Gear shift. automatic transmission

At the base of the selector lever there is an illuminated dial showing the selector range position symbols.

P Parking R Rear

stroke N Neutral position

Forward gears:

D 1st. 4th gear 3 1st. 3rd gear 2 1st. 2nd gear 1 1st gear

You cannot set the P, R, or N position while the vehicle is moving. When re-setting the movement position, this leads to tragedy or damage to the box.

Selector lever positions

Pressing the gas pedal while moving the selector lever causes excessive wear on the gearbox.

To set the driving position, always keep your foot on the brake pedal. It is harmful to keep your hand on the selector lever, as this causes wear on the box.

Gear shift lever

Between placing the lever in the driving position and accelerating, you should pause quite a bit to allow the gear to engage.

D ›3 N › RR › PP › R 3 › 2

This position can only be set when the vehicle is stationary. The selector lever and gearbox are locked. Or maybe the engine has started.

You will like this position only when the car is stationary. You need to press the button on the lever handle.

Before starting, you should wait quite a bit for the gear

reverse.

In this position, the engine is disconnected from the box. Or maybe the engine has started. To prevent the vehicle from rolling down a slope, use the handbrake. To avoid overheating of the engine and gearbox, you should set the N position when stopping the car for long periods (for example, in traffic jams). When waiting for a traffic light to allow movement, set position D.

This position is used for normal driving. The car starts off in first gear, and then automatically shifts between 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. The switching moment depends on the position of the gas pedal and the speed of movement.

In solving this issue, the 4th gear is locked. The car starts off in first gear and then automatically shifts between 2nd and 3rd gears. Position 3 is recommended when driving on zigzag roads and in heavy city traffic. When moving the lever from position D to position 3, the transmission immediately switches to 3rd gear, which causes a strong engine braking effect. This does not need to be done at speeds above 130 km/h.

This position is recommended when driving on mountain roads. At the same time, the engine power is better used and the engine braking effect increases. The transmission automatically switches between first and 2nd gears. 3rd and 4th gears are locked.

When moving the lever from position D or from position 3 to position 2.7, switching from third gear to second occurs only at a speed lower than a certain speed given in advance, in order to avoid an increase in engine speed to unacceptable values.

This position is recommended when climbing very steep slopes and when descending from a deposit. The positive point is that effective braking by the engine is ensured, and in addition, constant gear changes are eliminated, leading to overheating of the working water of the box.

Squeezing the gas pedal to the floor (kick-down)

Differential purpose

When turning a car, wheels located closer to the center of curvature of the trajectory travel a shorter distance than those rotating in an outer arc. Their speeds are also different. And since a drive without a differential rotates both wheels of the same axle at the same speed, one of them begins to slip. This increases tread wear and worsens vehicle handling. The differential allows the drive wheels to rotate at different speeds.

As long as the drive axle is in good contact with the road, this device works flawlessly. But as soon as the road grip under one of the wheels deteriorates, for example, when it hits ice or liquid mud, only one of them will rotate. A wheel with a high coefficient of adhesion stops spinning and the car stops. If you lock the differential, this will not happen. Therefore, a locked differential improves the vehicle's maneuverability on difficult sections of the road.

If a car has one drive axle, then it also has one differential - between the wheels of this axle. A car with permanent 4-wheel drive has three. One between the wheels of each axle plus one between the axles.

Device

The operating principle of the above-mentioned unit is the same, no matter where it is installed. The classic car differential is based on a planetary gear. The cardan shaft rotates the drive gear of the axle reducer. Its rotation is transmitted to the driven gear. And since it is attached to the differential housing, it moves with it. From the body, the torque is transmitted to the axle shafts using gears independent from each other, called satellites. The rotation speed of the propeller shaft is not equally divided between the axle shafts. However, for any ratio of speeds, their sum is always constant.

• automatic;
• forced, activated by the driver.

By blocking control method:

• mechanical;
• electromechanical;
• hydraulic;
• pneumatic

Automatic differential lock

A self-locking differential is a mechanism that, under certain conditions, switches and, turning into a direct transmission, begins to divide the rotation speed of the driveshaft between the axle shafts equally. Differentials with automatic locking can lock themselves depending on the value of one of two parameters:

• differences in angular velocities of the axle shafts. This group includes differentials with disc locking, cam, viscous coupling and operating according to the Ferguson formula;
• torque transmitted to the axle shafts.

Self-removal of the VAZ 2114 gearbox

The organizational activities of this process are as follows:

• Preparation of the necessary tools (a set of keys and screwdrivers) and equipment (hanging equipment, which, if missing, can be replaced with a board).
• Purchasing a special product “WD 40”.
• Disconnecting and dismantling the battery.
• Removing the starter.

Direct dismantling of the gearbox is carried out in accordance with the instructions given below:

• We install the car on an overpass (inspection hole) and dismantle the crankcase protection, fixed at three mounting points.
• Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch release fork and remove it from the bracket.
• Compress the retaining spring and disconnect the speed sensor terminal block.
• Unscrew the bolt securing the bracket to the ignition module.
• On the bottom of the car we find the block with the reverse sensor contacts and disconnect it.
• We unscrew the bolts securing the gearbox to the torque rod, loosen the clamp and pull out the gear selector rod rod.
• We dismantle the wheel drives and replace one of them with a plug, and then securely fix it, which will prevent it from falling out.

• We release the bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle located on the left side - this will greatly facilitate the dismantling of the box. In addition, we remove the mounting cushion for the gearbox to the power unit.
• Remove the clutch pan cover, and then unscrew the box mounting bolts (bottom left). Using hanging equipment (boards), we hang the power unit.
• Unscrew the bolts securing the gearbox supports (rear and left). While removing the rear support, the nut must be held with a second wrench.

• Using a screwdriver inserted into the gap between the clutch housing and the cylinder block, we move the gearbox until it is completely removed from the guide bushings.
• Moving the gearbox to the rearmost position, we pass the rear cover of the box over the front suspension. This will help disengage the input shaft from the clutch.

• Lowering the front part, remove the gearbox and take it out from under the car.
• The VAZ 2114 gearbox, the diagram, or rather, the dismantling instructions for which are described above, was removed from the car.

In conclusion of our story, we once again focus the attention of the car enthusiast on the fact that if the VAZ 2114 gearbox is humming, you should immediately take comprehensive measures to eliminate the causes of its (noise) occurrence, since they may be defects in the release bearing, input shaft bearing or increased wear gears

Differential VAZ 2114 and its types

There are several varieties of the product. The differences depend on the types of automobile bodies and the very principles of operation of the element. Additionally, the actual location of the differential itself may vary. For example, for front-wheel drive the location in the gearbox is relevant, for rear-wheel drive - in the rear axle housing, and so on.

There are canonical, cylindrical, and the most common - worm differentials. In addition, the self-locking differential of the VAZ 2114 is gaining great popularity among car owners.

Its main advantage is blocking forces in one place and transferring the moment to where it is really needed. For example, in a situation where one of the drive wheels is stuck or slips on a smooth surface, the second wheel receives increased torque. The advantages of using the product are obvious:

• the vehicle's cross-country ability increases;
• Full interchangeability with the classic unit is guaranteed;
• reliable operation is ensured.

Repair of VAZ 2107 gearbox

Both four-speed and five-speed manual transmissions are installed on Zhiguli Classic cars from the factory - the units are quite reliable and unpretentious to the oil being poured and operating conditions. The “five-speed” disease is the fifth speed slipping, the 5th gear gear is weak and wears out quickly. 4-st. Gearboxes are more durable; they break only at the end of their service life or as a result of barbaric handling.

In order to repair a VAZ 2107 4-speed gearbox, you first need to remove the box. We proceed as follows:

• put the car on a pit (lift);
• drain the transmission oil from the box;
• in the cabin, remove the gear shift lever;
• dismantle the driveshaft, disconnect the exhaust pipe of the muffler from the crankcase;
• We disconnect the traverse from the bottom of the body;
• unscrew the bolts securing the box itself to the internal combustion engine, dismantle the gearbox.

Next, we disassemble the transmission unit:

• We pull off the stopper from the shank of the secondary shaft;
• Using a 30 mm socket, unscrew the nut and remove the shank;
• dismantle the speedometer drive, and then the rear gearbox housing;
• disconnect the lower metal tray;
• unscrew the nuts of the “bell” (clutch housing), disconnect this casing;
• unscrew the nut securing the flush shaft;
• remove the stopper from the input shaft;
• then we disassemble the rear part of the gearbox - remove the bushing from the secondary one (there is a ball under it, you need to try not to lose it);
• disconnect the fork and small reverse gear;
• We pull off the stopper from the secondary shaft, and then the large reverse gear;
• We remove the retaining ring of the shaft from the back of the housing and pull the gear off the shaft;
• unscrew the screws of the metal plate on the back of the case, dismantle the plate;
• inside the housing on the rod, unscrew the bolts securing the gear forks;
• dismantle the plate, springs and balls fixing the gear shift rods;
• we pull out the rods, take out the rear bearing of the shaft;
• we pull out the wash basin itself;
• Now you can pull out the shafts - “primary” and “secondary”.

We inspect the parts and carry out troubleshooting - install new spare parts, assemble the gearbox.

Typical gearbox malfunctions and possible causes

Engine assembly

Assemble the engine as follows.

Place a clean cylinder block on the stand and screw the missing studs into it. Install the generator mounting bracket and secure it with two bolts.

Lubricate the bearing shells and thrust half rings of the crankshaft, as well as the pistons and oil seals with engine oil. When assembling the engine after repair, install new crankshaft oil seals.

Install liners with a groove in the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th seats of the cylinder block, and liners without a groove in the 3rd seat of the cylinder block and in the main bearing caps. Place the crankshaft in the main bearings and insert the thrust half rings () into the seat of the middle main bearing.

Install the main bearing caps in accordance with the marks on their outer surface (). Unfold the covers so that the marks on each of them are on the side where the generator is installed. Tighten the cover bolts.

Check the free axial movement of the crankshaft. To do this, turn the cylinder block with its back side up and install a stand with an indicator on it so that the indicator leg rests against the crankshaft flange. Moving the shaft up and down (for example, with screwdrivers), measure the free axial movement of the shaft () with an indicator. It should be in the range of 0.06–0.26 mm. If the stroke is greater, then bring it back to normal by replacing the old half-rings with new ones or installing half-rings of increased thickness.

Using mandrel 67.7853.9571, press the rear crankshaft oil seal into the holder (). Place the holder with the oil seal on the mandrel 67.7853.9572 and move it from the mandrel to the crankshaft flange. Place a gasket under the holder and attach it to the cylinder block with bolts and spring washers.

Install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that the mark (cone-shaped hole) near the rim is opposite the axis of the crankpin of the fourth cylinder. Install the flywheel washer and bolts. Lock the flywheel with clamp 67.7820.9526 (see) and tighten the fastening bolts. Apply UG-6 sealant to the flywheel mounting bolts before installation. To ensure that the sealant adheres reliably, degrease the bolts and threaded holes in the crankshaft before applying it.

Select pistons for cylinders according to class and one weight group and assemble the pistons with connecting rods, as indicated in subsection. "Connecting rod and piston group." Using the adjustable bushing 67.7854.9519, insert the pistons with connecting rods () into the cylinders.

Install the bearings into the connecting rods and connecting rod caps. Install the connecting rods and caps onto the crankshaft journals and tighten the connecting rod bolts. The connecting rod caps must be installed so that the cylinder number on the cap is opposite the cylinder number on the lower end of the connecting rod.

Using mandrel 67.7853.9580, press the crankshaft front oil seal into the oil pump cover. Fill the oil pump with some engine oil and rotate the drive gear several times. Install the oil pump with the crankshaft front oil seal on the mandrel 67.7853.9580 and turn the drive gear to a position so that it can be placed on the crankshaft journal. Move the pump from the mandrel to the shaft, install a gasket under the pump and attach it to the cylinder block.

For proper installation of the pump, two guide pins () are pressed into its housing, which must fit into the corresponding holes in the cylinder block.

Insert the oil receiver with the O-ring into the hole in the oil pump, attach it to the oil pump and to the cover of the second main bearing of the crankshaft (see).

Install oil sump 5 with gasket 4 and secure it.

Lubricate the oil filter O-ring with engine oil and install the oil filter by hand screwing it to the fitting on the cylinder block.

Insert two centering sleeves () into the cylinder block and install the cylinder head gasket over them. For a correctly installed gasket, the oil passage hole (edged with copper tape) should be in the area of ​​the 5th cylinder head bolt (see bolt number).

Rotate the crankshaft so that the pistons are in the middle of the cylinders.

Install the cylinder head, assembled in accordance with the instructions in the “Cylinder Head” subsection, using the centering bushings. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in a specific sequence (). To ensure a reliable seal and avoid tightening the bolts during vehicle maintenance, tighten the cylinder head bolts in four steps:

1st step - tighten the bolts to a torque of 20 N m (2 kgf m);

Step 2 - tighten the bolts to a torque of 69.4–85.7 N m (7.1–8.7 kgf m);

Step 3 - tighten the bolts 90°;

4th step - tighten all the bolts again by 90°;

Insert the coolant pump with the gasket into the cylinder block socket. Install the rear timing belt cover and attach it together with the pump cover to the cylinder block. Additionally, attach the cover with a bolt to the cylinder block and a nut to the stud on the cylinder head.

Insert segment keys into the slots at the front ends of the crankshaft and camshaft and install the toothed pulleys. Having blocked the camshaft pulley from turning, secure it with a bolt and washer.

Using tool 67.7811.9509, turn the camshaft until the mark on the pulley aligns with the installation lug on the rear cover of the toothed belt ().

Turn the crankshaft towards a smaller rotation angle until the alignment mark on the pulley aligns with the mark on the oil pump cover (). You can turn the crankshaft using a wrench using a bolt temporarily screwed into the front end of the crankshaft.

Install the tension roller with a spacer washer and secure it in the position of minimum belt tension.

Place the timing belt on the camshaft pulley and, while tensioning both branches of the belt, place the left branch behind the tension roller and put it on the coolant pump pulley. Place the belt on the crankshaft pulley and lightly tension it with the tension roller, turning the roller counterclockwise. When installing the belt, avoid sharp bends.

Rotate the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation and check that the alignment marks match (see and ). If the marks do not match, then loosen the belt tension, remove it from the camshaft pulley, turn the pulley to the required angle, put on the belt, slightly tension it with the tension roller, turn the crankshaft two turns again and check that the alignment marks match.

If the marks match, adjust the belt tension as described in the “Camshaft and its drive” subsection.

Adjust the clearances in the valve mechanism as indicated in subsection. "Cylinder head". Install the front timing belt cover and secure it with bolts. On the rear side of the engine, attach a plug with a gasket to the cylinder head and to the bearing housing.

Carefully place the gasket into the groove of the cylinder head cover along the entire perimeter. Install the cover on the cylinder head, put the rubber bushings on the studs and attach the nuts and washers. If the bushings show signs of destruction, replace them with new ones. Tighten the nuts evenly in several steps until the washer rests on the stud. Remember that the tightness of the cover depends on the thoroughness of all installation operations.

Wrap the spark plugs and coolant temperature gauge and oil pressure warning light sensors into the cylinder head. Install the ignition module with bracket and high-voltage wires.

Install the cooling jacket outlet pipe with a gasket on the cylinder head and secure it with two nuts. Screw the temperature sensor into the pipe. Install the gasket and attach the coolant pump inlet pipe flange to the cylinder block. Place the hoses leading to the thermostat onto the pipe and supply pipe, install the thermostat and secure the hoses with clamps.

Install the crankcase exhaust ventilation hose and secure it with clamps to the pipes of the block and cylinder head cover. Install the oil level indicator.

Place gaskets on the cylinder head studs, install the exhaust manifold and tighten the central nut securing it. Then install the inlet pipe with bracket 6 (see) and screen 7 and secure them with nuts. Install the intake pipe support and support brackets and secure them with bolts and nuts.

Install injector rail 1 (see ) with injectors and fuel pressure regulator and bolt it to the cylinder head. Lubricate the injector sealing rings with engine oil before installation. Install the injector wiring harness and connect the wires to the injectors.

Place the crankcase exhaust ventilation hoses onto the cylinder head cover pipes and secure them with clamps.

Install receiver 4 (see) with gasket 3 and bracket for fuel lines and attach it with nuts to the inlet pipe and bracket 6. Install the vacuum hose going from the receiver to the fuel pressure regulator.

Install the fuel supply and drain pipes, attaching them to the fuel rail, to the fuel pressure regulator and to the bracket on the receiver.

Attach the throttle pipe with the gasket to the receiver. Connect the coolant inlet and outlet hoses to the throttle pipe, as well as the crankcase exhaust ventilation hose at idle.

Place the generator drive pulley on the crankshaft and secure it with a bolt and washer. Install the tension bar and generator. Place the belt on the crankshaft and generator pulleys and adjust its tension as indicated in subsection. "Generator".

Fill the engine with oil through the filler neck on the cylinder head cover.

Removal and Installation Guide

To conveniently dismantle the box from the car, you need to use a lift or inspection pit. It is extremely inconvenient to carry out work on a flat surface.

Having fixed the VAZ 2115 on the lift, you need to open the hood, remove the terminal from the battery and starter, disconnect the ground and the clutch cable. Next, having unscrewed the clutch and starter mounting bolts, we fix the exhaust manifold of the VAZ 2115 engine with a lifting mechanism bracket.

After installing the engine support safety crossbar, we move on to the bottom of the car. We remove the protection, then dismantle the clutch housing after draining all the oil. We disconnect the reverse sensor, loosen the clamps and remove the rod from the rod joint intended for changing gears. We unscrew the stud mounting the VAZ 2115 engine with the gearbox. Then we disconnect the steering knuckles from the ball knuckles and carefully remove the axle gear to avoid it getting into the crankcase. Having completed this operation, we knock out the second hinge, while moving the wheels in different directions. If it is not possible to disconnect the wheel drive from the axle shafts, the box is removed as an assembly. Using special equipment, press the hinge out of the axle gear. When you have everything in a suspended state, unscrew the remaining mounting bolts, having first positioned the hydraulic lift. Lower the engine slightly on the safety cross member and the gearbox will easily come down.

Removing the primary and secondary shafts

During removal and installation, do not allow the input shaft to press on the release spring petals. This may cause damage which will incur additional costs.

It is better to leave it to a specialist to disassemble the box itself and replace worn gears. If you have never done this before, it is better to refrain from experimenting. It is not difficult to disassemble it, but not everyone can assemble it without certain skills. Even experts sometimes make mistakes because of which they have to disassemble everything again.

When the box is repaired, do not forget to fill in special gear oil before installing it on the car. It is much more convenient to pour it on the ground. Oil must be filled strictly according to the level. High-quality oil will ensure uninterrupted operation of the box, while extending its service life for many years.

Installation occurs in complete reverse order. The main thing is not to forget to replace all the old retaining rings and before starting installation, lubricate the outer surface of the clutch sleeve of the bearing that disengages the clutch. After the installation is completed, all that remains is to adjust the clutch pedal travel and the drive that controls the gear shift mechanism.

Always change gears smoothly, fill in high-quality oil and your gearbox will serve trouble-free for many years.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=2YKhDWGX0lw%2520