After replacing the struts, supports, steering and ball bearings, the knocking noise when driving on rough roads did not disappear. And then the other day I crawled under the car and noticed the damaged silent blocks.
I went online to see how this whole thing is changing and someone on Drive found a post about replacing silent blocks and rubber bands, or popularly known as “Daisies.” After studying the material, I finally decided to change them.
We bought silent blocks, front suspension extension joints (“Daisies”), as well as stabilizer bushings and anti-roll bar struts (popularly “Eggs”).
We drive the car into the pit and fix it. Safety comes first. First, I recommend filling all the bolts and nuts with WD-40 and letting them sit.
Next, we tear off the nuts of the lever, brace and “eggs”. If you can’t unscrew the nut of the extension, you can unscrew the crab and unscrew the extension later, in more convenient conditions. Next, we raise the car, remove the wheel, unscrew the 2 ball bolts, unscrew and remove the “egg”, unscrew the extension nut, the lever bolt and remove the lever.
So, now you need to get rid of the old silent block. There are several options: 1. Burn it with a torch. 2. Drill out. 3. Use a special puller. 4. Be smart.
Since I didn’t have a drill, a torch, or a puller, I chose the 4th point. I cut off one side of the silent block with a knife and knocked it out with a hammer.
Afterwards, it is necessary to clean the seat from rust and dirt, otherwise the new silent block will not be pressed into place.
Here. Now you need to press the new silent block into place. There are also several options here: 1. Use a special puller. 2. Using a vice. 3. Be smart.
Here, too, I chose the 3rd point. Using my ingenuity, I assembled this puller.
Next we look at how to use it in the photo:
Before assembly, lubricate the lever eye and silent block with liquid soap or detergent. You cannot use grease, lithol or oil, because... The rubber is not oil resistant and will quickly become rough and crack. To press the silent block in, use a screwdriver to push the collar into the hole. It may not work out the first time, you will have to suffer.
By tightening the bolt, we press the silent block in and somewhere halfway it will rest against the puller washer. And then the puller was modified:
To put the silent block in place you need to use some kind of thread and tube. The inner ring of the wheel bearing caught my eye (see photo above). It fits just right. We press the silent block in completely, not forgetting to lubricate it with soap.
Now we change the daisies. We knock out the old ones with a chisel. For me they fell apart into 2 parts.
We clean the seat, lubricate it with lithol and hammer new ones into place.
We put the lever in place. We tighten all the bolts, tighten the ball bolts at once.
ATTENTION! IT IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED TO TIGHTEN THE BOLTS WITH THE MACHINE RAISED. OTHERWISE, WHEN LOWERING THE CAR, THE BUSHING BLOCKS MAY TEAR.
We put the wheel on, lower the car and tighten all the bolts. Along the way, we change the stabilizer bushings and install the “eggs”.
After repair, it is recommended to do a wheel alignment.
I think this post will be useful to someone. Thank you for your attention_)).
Today we will talk about how to replace silent blocks on a VAZ 2110.
The suspension is one of the most loaded devices of a car, since it constantly absorbs all the oscillatory movements of the wheel that are transmitted to it from the road surface.
Symptoms of replacement
By what signs can you understand that a VAZ-2110 car requires replacement of silent blocks? You can diagnose the serviceability of the seals without leaving the car, right on the go. If while driving you notice a characteristic rubber squeak or knocking noise, most likely the product has become unusable. Backlash also appears. Replacement of silent blocks (VAZ-2110 8 valves included) is also carried out when the car begins to roll when cornering.
see also
Could there be a knocking noise in the VAZ 2110 due to the silent blocks of the rear beam?
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Replacement of rear silent blocks of VAZ 2110
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Replacing the rubber-metal bushing of the rear shock absorber of a VAZ 2110
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The rubber bands flatten when the tension nut is tightened
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What are the signs of worn silent blocks?
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Car silent blocks require monitoring and timely replacement. The service life of a silent block is up to 100,000 km , but Russian conditions dictate their own rules; silent blocks have to be replaced every 50,000 km .
Broken silent blocks of the front suspension arms on VAZ-2110 vehicles are indicated by a characteristic knocking or grinding sound that is heard when the car is moving. The car not only begins to rattle, but also loses stability on the road and becomes more difficult to control. It happens that when a car undergoes a wheel alignment, it is discovered that the silent blocks are faulty.
It is quite possible to change the silent blocks of a VAZ 2110 with your own hands. Of course, you will have to get dirty and spend several hours of your time to repair the car. The same procedure for replacing a set of silent blocks at a service station will cost 1100-1400 rubles . You can decide whether to take on the work yourself or entrust it to others after viewing this photo report.
It is worth noting that the photo instructions are based on the experience of car enthusiasts and contain tips for drivers with a minimum set of necessary tools. In the repair instructions you can find another solution to this problem.
Preparing for work
So, first you need to prepare the appropriate set of tools. In addition to new silent blocks (polyurethane or rubber-metal, it doesn’t matter), a standard set of heads with a ratchet, a soap solution, and universal lubricant VD-40 are required. As an alternative, you can use an analogue from. The product costs several times less, but the effect is the same, as noted by reviews from car owners.
How to press out a silent block?
The technology does not differ from the location of the rubber-metal seal. It doesn’t matter whether it’s replacing the front silent blocks of a VAZ-2110, front control arms or a stabilizer bar. As we said earlier, pressing is done with a special puller or using a vice. You can use the “old-fashioned” method. To do this, the old silent block is set on fire and after a few seconds it is extinguished. This way it will soften - it is much easier to get such an element. Another way is to use a soap solution.
Press-fitting
So, the worn element came out. How to install a new one? Don't set fire to it, like the old one? The new silent block is pressed in using a special tool. You can make it yourself. To do this, take a small pin (long pin), put a washer of the appropriate diameter and silent blocks on it.
Then we string a piece of tube. The outer part of the rubber silent block will fit into it. A washer and nut are installed at the end of the tool. The latter, moving along the turns of the pin, will create the required pressure. On the other hand, the silent block will be held by the second washer.
By smoothly twisting the element, you will successfully press the seal into the grooves of the lever or beam. There are often traces of rust inside the seat. It is recommended to eliminate it. This can be done using sandpaper. But a more effective way is a rust converter. This chemical perfectly corrodes corrosion, forming a zinc film on the surface.
note
When installing the silent block, carefully watch how it fits inside the hole. The element should go as smoothly as possible around the entire circle. When the part is firmly held in place by the rubber collars, you can safely remove the tool. This completes the silent block replacement procedure. Assembly should be done in reverse order. The above instructions for installing and dismantling seals can be used for both front and rear suspension.
When should you change?
Usually, the driver will probably guess that the silent block has failed. If a replacement is needed, discomfort while driving will tell you about it. You can feel distinct “iron” impacts and noises in the suspension. But that's not all.
If urgent measures are not taken, the VAZ 2110’s fastenings and connections will break and play will appear. The wheel alignment angles will also suffer, which obviously will not lead to any good.
There are some symptoms to look out for that these rubber parts are worn out:
- When driving, the tires on the wheels squeak. Not necessarily much. There shouldn't even be a slight squeak;
- A knocking sound is heard in the wheel area. The point here is the poor rotation of the collapsing silent blocks;
- As the silent block wears out, it first becomes covered with cracks and then completely falls apart. Here only the deaf can no longer hear the knocks.
Front suspension
For the front suspension, silent blocks are provided: front beam, upper, lower arm.
Replacement for parts of the front upper arm of the VAZ 2110 occurs as follows:
- You need to jack up and secure the car;
- Remove the front wheel;
- Unscrew and knock out the support. To do this, hit the bipod with a hammer, turning the wheel out;
- Once the support is knocked out, it becomes possible to remove the upper front control arm. To do this, unscrew a long bolt from the side. At the same time they look at the axial play. If it is palpable, replacement may be warranted;
- Removing the silent tape is quite simple using a chisel and a hammer. The main thing is to accurately calculate the impact in order to avoid damage to other parts. Sometimes very “stubborn” silent blocks have to be drilled out and only then knocked out;
- You can press in a new silent block by pressing it into the socket using a smaller bushing until it sits securely there.
Replacing the silent blocks of the front lower control arms of a VAZ 2110 is a more difficult task; to complete it, you will need:
- Remove the stabilizer so that the lever can be moved;
- Unscrew the nuts holding the silents;
- Remove the rubber bushings (same as in the case of the upper arm);
- Press in new ones, and then be sure to fix them in the loaded state of the VAZ 2110.
Making a puller with your own hands
Even in an ordinary garage, high-quality replacement of silent blocks is possible. To do this, you only need to have a puller, which you can make yourself, having a simple drawing. Or you can borrow it from your motorist friends.
Such a device will become an assistant when removing and then further installing new silent blocks. It consists of two tubes and washers. The length of the puller legs is about 20 cm.
Some, having adapted, make do with a mandrel.
It is not only properly inflated wheels or comfortable seats that are responsible for the softness and comfort of driving a car. The serviceability of the suspension is important, the parts of which must work as a whole. Failure to operate at least one of the above components will lead to a general imbalance and disruption of ride comfort in general.
One of the most important elements of a car suspension is rubber and rubber-metal seals, they are called silent blocks. Thanks to these seemingly inconspicuous and unnecessary rubber or polyurethane rollers, the suspension parts are connected.
On the pages of VAZ Repair we have already talked about how to replace silent blocks in the article: Replacing silent blocks on a VAZ 2109. This time you will learn how to replace silent blocks on lower control arms on a VAZ 2110 at home.
Such a device will become an assistant when removing and then further installing new silent blocks. It consists of two tubes and washers. The length of the puller legs is about 20 cm.
As mentioned above, silent blocks are tightly pressed into the arms and into the so-called “strut” on the suspension. You can press a new silent block into the brace using an ordinary chisel and hammer. But pressing a silent block into the suspension arm is a very labor-intensive procedure and without special equipment ( puller) is not necessary here.
You can look for a puller in a car dealership, or you can not waste time searching and make it yourself, fortunately, it’s not difficult. To make a puller, we need a bolt (M12), the length of the bolt is at least 180 mm. You should select a nut for it, and it should be high - at least 20 mm.
Rear suspension
For the rear suspension, it is better to replace the silent blocks by removing the beam, although this can also be done directly on the car. The installation of the rear rubber bushings is identical to that on the front beam. Pressing out and installation is best done using a mounting device.
However, if it is not there, then the especially “stubborn” ones will be knocked out of the rear silent bars of the VAZ 2110 by holding the part in which they are located in a vice. A mandrel is used, sometimes even sawed.
A faulty rear suspension manifests itself by the appearance of a characteristic knocking sound from the rear. Details: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/podveska/zadnyaya-podveska.html
Both rear silent blocks are oriented along the lever and pressed flush against the end of the eye.
As many car owners know, silent blocks have a direct impact on wheel alignment angles. Therefore, a beginner needs to understand how important it is to monitor the condition of these elements. Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of a VAZ 2110 is quite simple, but today we will reveal some of the repair features to you.
Important points
Unscrewing nuts with a 24 mm spanner can be a very difficult task. To move such a nut out of place, as a rule, enormous force is required. And not only that, each next revolution will also require considerable effort. Therefore, it is best to use a long tube mounted on a spanner as a lever.
To make the nuts even easier to unscrew, you can pour plenty of oil on them and wait 10 minutes.
The silent blocks should be pressed in with a hammer blow (or a sledgehammer blow) only after placing the lever on a flat metal surface. In this case, the blow must be very accurate; at the slightest misalignment of the hammer, there is a risk of damage to the silent block.
In order to avoid the above damage, it makes sense to press the silent block into the extension using a vice. A vice will be needed in any case, since new blocks rarely fit completely into the eye after one blow. They almost always need to be “added.”
In order for the new silent block to fit into the eye as deeply as possible, it should be lubricated. An ordinary dishwashing gel, liquid soap or plain soapy water is suitable as a lubricant.
As can be seen from this article, it is quite possible to replace silent blocks yourself, the main thing is to be careful when pressing them. If the car owner is not confident in the strength and accuracy of the blow, there is no point in taking risks with a hammer; it is better to gradually press the block into the eye with a vice, having previously lubricated it. If this operation also causes difficulties, then there is only one way out: going to a car service center for the help of qualified auto mechanics.
Front silent blocks VAZ 2110
Everyone knows that it is with the help of silent blocks that the wheel alignment of the car is influenced. Therefore, it is very important to ensure that they are always in good condition. Replacing the front silent blocks of the VAZ 2110 in some cases is simply necessary. And it’s worth noting that replacing the front silent blocks on a VAZ 2110 can easily be done with your own hands.
When replacement is required
It will not be difficult for a more or less experienced driver to understand that the silent blocks are out of order and they need to be replaced. First of all, you will feel a certain discomfort while driving, you will hear the impact of iron in the suspension. But that's not all.
If you do not replace the front silent blocks on a VAZ 2110 in time, the fasteners and connecting elements will be destroyed, play will appear, and the wheel alignment angles will change. This does not entail anything good.
Determining the need to replace silent blocks is not difficult if you pay attention to the characteristic signs of their wear:
- While driving, strong or minor rubber squeaks are observed. It all depends on the degree of wear. Loud noise is a very bad sign;
- A noise similar to a knock is heard in the wheel area. This indicates that the silent blocks are poorly fixed and they are gradually destroyed;
- Cracks form on the surface of the elements, after which the process of disintegration of the silent block begins. In such a situation, it will be impossible not to hear a knock.
Is it possible to follow the regulations?
It is worth noting that there is no exact regulation for replacing these elements.
The service life of silent blocks depends on road conditions and driving style. On average, elements fail after 100 thousand kilometers. But you should push off based on the creaks and knocks of the suspension. If the system makes characteristic sounds, this is a signal to check the condition of the sealing elements.
Replacement of silent blocks of front levers of VAZ 2110
Some car owners are afraid to replace the silent blocks of the front beam on a VAZ 2110 on their own. But in vain. Contacting a service station entails serious financial costs. Plus, it’s far from a fact that the service station will do your job better than you would have done yourself.
Zapisovka
The only thing is that you may need the help of a car service friend. All service stations have a special puller in their tool arsenal. There is no point in purchasing it, since it is expensive and is rarely needed by a car owner. Some craftsmen even make their own puller using a homemade method. There are many drawings and diagrams according to which it is made. So you can try it if you have free time.
The design of the puller is quite simple - the puller legs are about 20 centimeters long, a pair of washers and two tubes.
There are two silent blocks in the front beam - in the front upper and front lower arm . The procedure for replacing them is somewhat different from each other, so we will consider the processes separately.
Front upper control arm silent block
Broken
Let us immediately note that it is easier to work with it than with the second element. The entire procedure involves performing several sequential operations.
- Raise the car on a jack and secure it in a stationary position. Turn on the handbrake, put stoppers under the wheels.
- Remove the front wheel.
- Unscrew and remove the support. To do this, you will need to turn the wheel out and hit the bipod with a hammer. It is better to do this through some kind of insert.
- By knocking out the support, you can remove the upper front control arm without serious problems.
- There is a bolt on the side, it is quite long. Unscrew it. Inspect the end play. Most likely, it is quite serious and is easily felt when checking. Therefore, you absolutely correctly decided to change the silent blocks.
- You can remove the silent block with a hammer and chisel. Just don't hit it too hard, or you'll damage other suspension components.
- In some cases, the silent block sits very firmly, so you can’t do without a drill and drilling it. After making the holes, you can safely remove the element.
- Now use the smaller bushing to press the new silent block into place. The part must fit firmly and securely into the socket.