Can dimexide added to the tank clean the fuel system?

Decoking of piston rings with dimexide: method of application, reviews from car owners

During the operation of a passenger car, parts of the internal combustion engine (ICE) gradually wear out, and due to non-compliance with storage conditions, for example, after the car is parked for a long time, piston rings often become stuck. Most often, in such cases, a major overhaul of the engine is necessary, but you can try to “revive” the power unit by using all kinds of additives. When decarbonizing an engine, many car owners recommend using dimexide as one of the most effective means. But whether this drug really restores the performance of the internal combustion engine, and in what cases it is used, we will try to understand these issues.

What is dimexide and how is it useful for the engine?

Dimethyl sulfoxide (as well as DMSO or dimexide) is a medicinal product that is a transparent liquid, intended for external use, and has a specific odor. In medicine, the drug is used to treat diseases of the musculoskeletal system, but motorists have made the discovery that the medicinal liquid effectively helps clean combustion chambers, cylinder-piston parts, and the engine crankcase from soot and tar deposits.

Dimexide is added to the wash, used to decarbonize rings, and used as an additive to reduce engine oil consumption. Of course, the instructions for using the medicinal liquid say nothing about the possibility of misuse, but lately dimexide has been very popular among motorists. There are many laudatory reviews about this miraculous remedy on the Internet, many videos have been posted on YouTube, but there are also sharply negative opinions.

Basis for “miracle tinctures”

In recent years, many medicinal products based on folk recipes have appeared on pharmacy shelves. These are all kinds of balms and tinctures for internal and external use, ointments and creams, aromatic essential oils. However, doctors still have undeservedly forgotten, but quite effective drugs that have been tested over decades of medical practice. Such truly unique drugs include dimexide .

Description and properties of dimexide

It is a slightly yellowish oily liquid with a faint odor reminiscent of garlic (the chemically pure preparation is colorless and almost odorless). The full name of the substance is dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), it was synthesized in 1866 by A.M. Zaitsev, a student of the great chemist A.M. Butlerov. But, as often happens, only 100 years later, first chemists and then doctors paid attention to DMSO.

Numerous studies have revealed the amazing ability of dimethyl sulfoxide to easily penetrate the blood and human body through intact skin. Just a few minutes after rubbing a small amount of dimexide into any area of the skin, the exhaled air begins to smell slightly like garlic. 5-6 minutes after application to the skin, the presence of DMSO molecules is detected in the blood. The maximum concentration in the blood is created after 4-6 hours and decreases slowly over 36-72 hours.

But that is not all! In the Middle Ages, dimexide, no doubt, could have been dubbed “alkahest” - a super-solvent, the search for which alchemists were no less keen on turning lead into gold. And this is by no means an exaggeration.

Dimethyl sulfoxide perfectly dissolves substances of various origins and chemical structures: antibiotics, hormones, salts, alkaloids, cytostatics, vitamins. And besides, it sharply accelerates the penetration of many compounds through the skin without changing their properties at all (for example, iodine, heparin, glucose, hydrocortisone, penicillin, diclofenac, complex biologically active complexes of medicinal plants).

The effect of active medicinal substances is enhanced, since many of them directly enter the bloodstream, bypassing the digestive organs. This allows the use of dimexide as a highly effective solvent for the preparation of transdermal (transdermal) medicinal preparations.

Thanks to the powerful improvement in the permeability of drugs through the skin, their concentration contained in various ointments and rubs can be reduced several times! Thus, it has been proven that if about 20% DMSO is added to prednisolone ointment, the concentration of prednisolone (without reducing the therapeutic effect) can be reduced by 8-10 times! This means not only significant savings on expensive drugs, but also a sharp reduction in the risk of unwanted side effects when treating patients.

Dimexide application

Dimethyl sulfoxide tinctures are indicated for alcohol intolerance and contraindications to treatment with alcohol-containing liquids (alcoholism). It is also remarkable that dimexide at normal dosages is practically no more toxic than table salt!

In its pure form, dimexide is used to treat a wide range of diseases. It has strong anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, antimicrobial, antifungal properties. In the form of 30-50% solutions, it is used for diseases of the musculoskeletal system (rheumatoid arthritis, arthrosis, radiculitis, bruises and sprains, myositis, traumatic infiltrates). And also for inflammatory skin diseases (furunculosis, erysipelas, purulent wounds, burns, thrombophlebitis).

Dimexide accelerates wound healing and restores the activity of antibiotics in cases where microbes have already developed resistance to them, and increases the body's resistance to low temperatures and radiation exposure.

As a result of research conducted at the Research Institute of Rheumatology more than 30 years ago, it turned out that dimexide is one of the best remedies in the treatment of joint contracture - stiffness that develops as a result of inflammation! process.

Applied to the skin in the area of inflamed joints and easily penetrating inside, DMSO relieves inflammation of the periarticular soft tissues and muscles.

The purified drug showed good results in secondary renal amyloidosis, a severe complication of rheumatoid arthritis accompanied by the deposition of insoluble protein in the kidneys. In this case, dimexide was administered orally, diluted 10-15 times with distilled water (1 tablespoon 2-3 times a day after meals).

In the same form, the drug was used after irradiation of the pelvic organs and rectum (in connection with the treatment of malignant neoplasms). This allows you to relieve reactive tissue inflammation after radioactive exposure and protect healthy cells.

Due to the special structure of the dimethyl sulfoxide molecule, it can be successfully used for electrophoresis.

According to Professor I.E. Oransky, DMSO does not interfere with the pharmacological activity of the substances it transports. It helps them penetrate deeper into the tissue and in greater quantities than with conventional electrophoresis. Thus, excellent results were obtained with electrophoresis of acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin) - a 5-10% solution in a 50% dimexide solution. Analgin (also a 5-10% solution) had a pronounced effect during electrophoresis from a 25% dimexide solution, lidase - 32-64 units, also in a 25% DMSO solution.

At home, you can prepare a lot of tinctures, balms and ointments based on dimethyl sulfoxide to treat a wide variety of pathologies. Dimexide’s own healing abilities are summed up and enhanced by medicinal plants, allowing one to achieve good results.

Preparation of healing potions at home.

At home, you can prepare tinctures, balms and ointments based on dimexide to treat a wide variety of pathologies, even in severe, advanced cases.

To prepare tinctures, use pharmaceutical dimexide, which, if necessary, is diluted with boiled water to a concentration of 30-70%.

The concentration depends on the amount of biologically active compounds insoluble in water. The more essential oils and resins in the raw material, the higher the concentration of DMSO should be. For example, propolis extract is prepared using pure dimexide (finely planed propolis is infused in a ratio of 1:5 for 2 weeks).

Extracts from poplar and pine buds are also made. A tincture of aspen and hazel bark, an ointment from the roots of burdock and comfrey are prepared using 50-70% DMSO with the addition of 25-30% dimexide.

Based on 25-30% solutions of dimexide, you can prepare tinctures of chamomile, meadowsweet, salvia officinalis, St. John's wort, thyme and many other medicinal plants.

All such tinctures are mainly used externally. For a better effect of absorption of active substances into the blood, it is advisable to first achieve general light sweating, for which physical exercise and a sauna are excellent. After this, you need to quickly wipe off the sweat, apply a medicinal tincture to the skin, and rub in lightly (do not use compresses!).

If you are performing this procedure on someone other than yourself, you must wear rubber gloves to protect your own skin.

Dimexide instructions for the drug:

Decoking of piston rings using DMSO

There are many different decarbonization recipes that are offered by car drivers, all of them are based on the fact that a composition that corrodes carbon deposits is poured into the cylinders and left in them for a certain time. Let's consider how a similar procedure is performed on a VAZ model 2108 car, the entire sequence of actions. First you need:

prepare two bottles with DMSO (2x100 ml);
take a medical syringe, connect its end to a transparent tube;
warm up the engine to operating temperature;
turn off the engine, unscrew the spark plugs;
pour dimexide using a syringe, half the bottle into each cylinder;
screw the spark plugs back into place, wait about 5 minutes, crank the crankshaft without starting the engine;
it is necessary to rotate the shaft in both directions; such actions should be performed for approximately 15 minutes;
now you need to unscrew the candles again and use the same syringe to pump out the liquid, it should noticeably turn black;
part of the drug must penetrate into the engine, so pumping it out of the cylinders will not be possible;
Now about 300 ml of dimexide should be added to the engine crankcase, then let the engine idle for approximately 25-30 minutes.

To avoid damage to the internal combustion engine, it is impossible to increase the speed, since dirt from the engine walls can clog the oil receiver screen, and then the oil pressure will be lost. While the internal combustion engine is running, white smoke with an unpleasant, pungent odor will come out of the muffler pipe, so it is highly undesirable to carry out such actions in the garage; it is most convenient to leave the car with the engine running outside.

After about half an hour, we drive the car into a pit or a car lift (with your hands, you can’t use gas), turn off the engine, and drain the oil from the pan (most likely, it will be very black). Then we fill the crankcase with any universal motor oil, preferably inexpensive, since it will be changed again, and install a new oil filter. Warm up the engine for five minutes, turn off the ignition, then add dimexide again (three 100 ml bottles).

Once again, let the internal combustion engine run at idle speed for about 30 minutes, drain the waste again, and change the oil filter again. If the engine is heavily slagged, this time the oil will also be quite dark. Now we pour flushing into the crankcase, run the engine at low speed for 20 minutes, we no longer use the DMSO composition. At the very last stage, drain the flushing oil and change the oil filter (for the last time). Before filling in with clean, good oil, it is advisable to remove the engine pan and thoroughly clean it of dirt. How many times this procedure should be repeated depends on the degree of contamination of the insides of the power unit.

One important point is that dimexide crystallizes at temperatures below +18.5ºC, because of this, it is advisable to carry out all work, except for warming up the internal combustion engine, in a warm room. The drug also effectively and quickly eats away paint, so if there are painted parts inside the engine and liquid gets into the oil pan, the engine cannot be started. First you need to remove all traces of dimexide and dirt from the oil system, and then start the car.

Decarbonization of engine piston rings with dimexide

In today's article we will talk about how to decarbonize a Nissan engine with your own hands. We will have a 2012 Infiniti fx35 as a test vehicle. with a 3.5 liter engine. Our car has a very big problem - it is a wild waste of oil, reaching up to 1 liter. per 1000 km. Overhauling an engine or replacing it with a contract one is not a cheap procedure, so let’s try to get rid of oil waste or at least reduce it by decarbonizing the piston rings without disassembling the engine.

Our experimental, oil-loving 3.5 liter engine

After reading information on the Internet, we decided to use a heavy-duty tool for in-place decarbonization - the pharmaceutical drug dimexide. Add to the oil at the rate of 10% of the volume of oil being poured. We got 5 bottles of 100 ml each. each.

The Great and Terrible Dimexide

Since dimexide is an aggressive substance, and the Infiniti fx35 has a painted pan, we removed it and sandblasted it so that it would not lift the paint and we would not completely finish off the engine. When using dimexide as a decarbonizer, place the pan on a good, proven sealant, since a low-quality sealant will corrode and at the most crucial moment oil will leak out of the pan. Dimexide is also extremely aggressive towards all kinds of plastic parts, so if at your own peril and risk you want to decarbonize it with it, then think 10 times and check the information on your engine for the presence of internal plastic components.

Sandblasted pallet

Photo of the bottom of the engine, after removing the pan. A large amount of varnish deposits is clearly visible

Decarbonization was done in 3 stages:

They filled the engine with old oil, but did not change the oil filter. We warmed up the engine to operating temperature and added our preparation. The first part of decoking lasted 30 minutes, the engine was running at approximately 1200 rpm. After half an hour of work it was turned off and the first oil drain occurred. The fact that it merged black is a very understatement.
For the second stage, Lukoil 10W40 synthetic oil was used. The high viscosity is due to the fact that, like the decarbonizer BG 109, dimexide also thins the oil. Add fresh oil and 500 ml. drug. Again the engine ran for the required 30 minutes and we drained the oil a second time. And again, just complete blackness.
At the third stage, we made no changes in the technology of in-place decarbonization. After half an hour of engine operation, the incredibly black oil was once again drained.

After three stages of decoking, we decided to remove the pan and look at the work of dimexide from below. At the bottom of the pan there was a viscous caramel-like liquid of a deep black color.

Viscous, viscous liquid, reminiscent of caramel in consistency

Parts that had noticeable varnish deposits before the procedure were noticeably cleaned and whitened.

Triple washing with dimexide gave the expected result

Now we will monitor the oil consumption of this engine and if we notice significant improvements after decarbonization, we will repeat the procedure after 5000 km.

This description is not a call to action for in-place decarbonization with dimexide. To carry out this procedure you need to be very confident in your actions. If there is no such confidence, then it is much easier and safer to use the decarbonizer of the American company BG Products BG 109.

Application of DMSO for diesel engine

The principle of decoking and washing is generally the same for all engines, the only difference lies in the design features. A feature of many diesel engines is the relative inaccessibility of the cylinders themselves; getting to them, for example, in Nissan or Renault cars is not so easy. Let’s look at how you can decarbonize piston rings on a diesel engine using the example of a 1.9 DCI engine installed in a Renault Scenic car;

remove the glow plugs, and to pour dimexide into the cylinders, set all the pistons in them at approximately the same level;
to measure the position of the pistons, we take any thin rod or steel wire bent at an angle, and you can turn the engine by putting the car in gear, jacking up the front wheel and turning it (suitable for cars with a manual transmission, with an automatic transmission you will have to look for other methods);
We also attach a transparent tube to the syringe, but it is much longer, and so that it does not bend and gets into the cylinder, you can attach an electrode to it for rigidity;
fill the syringe with dimexide, install the tube in the cylinder and add liquid (also about 50 g each);
Having filled the cylinders with liquid, wait a few minutes, then use the wheel to rotate the engine shaft with the pistons in one direction or the other (the car is still in gear);
pump out the remaining liquid from the cylinders with a syringe.

Here you can crank the engine idle with the starter so that the slag flies out of the cylinders, but it is necessary to turn off the fuel supply (it is turned off under the hood). It would be a good idea to lay down rags to prevent dirt from getting on the engine. Flushing the crankcase is performed if the oil system is heavily contaminated; the procedure is also carried out as a preventive measure.

Factors influencing the price of the service - carburetor flushing with dimexide in St. Petersburg

It is common knowledge that the cost of car repairs depends on several aspects. Among them are the following:

cost of spare parts (original, China, alternative manufacturers);
personnel qualifications;
level of equipment of the service station (availability of painting booths, lifts, special tools and equipment, etc.).

For example, the price of the service - flushing the carburetor with dimexide in St. Petersburg will also depend on factors such as the age, make and model of the car. We are confident that car services will compete for your order and offer the best conditions. The centers have a system of discounts for regular customers.

Cleaning cylinders and combustion chambers on a 6-cylinder engine

To decarbonize a six-cylinder internal combustion engine, a larger amount of cleaning agent is required, and the drug must be poured, of course, not into 4, but into 6 cylinders. For greater efficiency, you can also use a carburetor (injector) cleaner; in this regard, auto chemicals under the Japanese brand GZOX have proven themselves well.

Here is an approximate procedure for decoking and washing a 6-cylinder two-liter gasoline engine using dimexide and cleaning the injector with GZOX Injection&Carb Cleaner:

warm up the engine to operating condition;
unscrew the spark plugs, pour 100 ml of DMSO into each cylinder;
we wait about half an hour, then we pump out the liquid with a syringe, tighten the spark plugs, and start the internal combustion engine again, it is necessary that all the slag from the combustion chambers flies out and burns out;
Now we take the industrial composition GZOX (300 ml bottle), spray it into the cylinders (of course, after unscrewing the spark plugs), leave to “soak” for about 3 hours;
After waiting the required time, we turn the crankshaft manually; there is no need to use the starter;
Now we pump out the remaining liquid from the cylinders, if it still remains there and has not leaked into the pan.

Reviews from car owners about the use of DMSO

Dimexide has been known relatively recently as an engine cleaner, but there are already many enthusiastic reviews about the effectiveness of this product. The big advantage of DMSO is its low price, and the drug is sold in almost any pharmacy. Here we will provide a few comments about the use of dimethyl sulfoxide as a decarbonizer and rinse; it will be interesting to know what users say about this product.

Sergey. I decided to decarbonize and flush my Toyota, and for this I took dimexide plus domestic flushing oil. In general, I encountered problems:

For a long time there was acrid smoke from the exhaust pipe;
engine lost speed:
At idle the low oil pressure light came on.

The first “trouble” has passed, but the other two points worry me: I’m afraid that the oil receiver is clogged, and the engine is not picking up speed, as if someone is holding the car.

Artem. I watched a video on YouTube about flushing a Toyota engine and also decided to try to wash some parts on the Premio. Before this, I washed my 3S-FE engine with special chemicals 3 times (every 8000 km), but I can’t say that the effect was very strong. One bottle of liquid was lying in my garage (removing glue), so I decided to clean the oil filler neck and cap with dimexide.

I will say that this product really works, it cleans well, but I heard that there are cases when motors “died” after washing. And even below 20 degrees, the composition crystallizes, so it should only be used on a hot engine. I haven't washed the entire engine yet, I'm afraid it will corrode the paint on the pan. But it seems like a cool thing, you’ll still have to decide to wash it (decarbonization is not required yet).

Oleg. My Chevrolet Lacetti has already run 210 thousand km, it’s time for maintenance, so I decided not only to change the oil, but also to use harsh chemicals. I took Lukoil washing oil, 25 percent ammonia, 600 ml of dimexide. I spent a lot of time fiddling around with decoking, removing and washing the paint tray off, and in general, carrying out major preventive maintenance.

After washing with dimexide, the hydraulic compensators stopped knocking, but you can still hear them when cold. I still haven’t achieved perfect cleanliness of the pistons and tightness of the rings; the seals are not leaking yet. The engine consumes about a liter of oil per 10,000 km, I think that preventive maintenance should be carried out regularly, and not occasionally, and I won’t use ammonia anymore, it’s very smelly.

Dmitriy. My opinion about dimexide is that it is too dangerous to use, there are no established regulations, many different restrictions, professional service stations do not work with this drug for cleaning engines. It certainly cleans perfectly, but disassembled motors need to be washed. I don’t recommend adding it to oil; the market is full of certified compounds; it’s better to use them.

Flushing the injector, dimexide into the tank

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Rating: 4;
Votes: 2 Flushing the injector, dimexide in the tank oleg gor: There is an effect from dimexide in the tank, I personally did it for myself and for friends.
I took demixide 5 ml + solvent 656 20 ml and 92 gasoline per 10 liters. rolled out. then fill the tank a couple of times and then repeat the same every 10,000 km. the price is cheap. cleans fuel perfectly. everyone who writes negatively did not do it himself repeats the lies with other people’s comments. Come to Rostov, I’ll show you this process in real life on your Toyota. Good luck Date: 2019-06-26

← Did you know that THIS needs to be done to your car every 3 years?

Do THIS and don’t go to car repair shops anymore →

Pros and cons of using dimethyl sulfoxide

From the experience of using DMSO for decoking and washing, both the advantages and disadvantages of the drug became clear. The advantages of this tool:

low price;
excellent cleansing properties;
quick effect.

Dimexide, according to reviews from car owners, often works more efficiently than the best special compounds, but at the same time costs much less. But the medicinal liquid also has many disadvantages:

has a strong unpleasant odor;
corrodes paint, which can cause clots to form in the engine pan and clog the oil receiver;
crystallizes at fairly high temperatures; the product can only be used on a well-warmed engine.

The use of dimexide is justified if you bought a used car and its engine is slagged. You can also try to use effective cleaning for an engine that is “threatened by capital”. If the internal combustion engine is regularly serviced, the oil is changed on time, and high-quality auto chemicals are poured into the engine, then decarbonization will not be required. Timely maintenance and the use of good consumables are the key to a long engine life and its uninterrupted operation.

Let's look at why you shouldn't pour dimexide into your car's engine.

I think many of you have heard about dimexide - it is a medicine for inflammation, ulcers, etc. But unexpectedly for everyone, this drug has found its use among car enthusiasts. YouTube is full of videos where various video bloggers praise dimexide and urge drivers to use it to flush the engine. As they say, the effect is simply “miraculous”, and such washing is very cheap. But is everything so rosy?

In the last year, there has been a real “hype” for this dimexide. This is understandable - many drivers are looking for ways to save on car maintenance, but here comes a cheap way to clean the engine from carbon deposits. A bottle of dimexide costs only about 50 rubles. This is much cheaper than branded specialized engine flushing products. This is what most drivers do. Reviews and opinions of drivers differ - some praise this method, while others, on the contrary, do not recommend using it. So I want to express my opinion on the use of this tool.

What do they say about dimexide?

Those who persistently promote this method of washing say that dimexide ideally cleans the pistons, rings and the engine combustion chamber itself. All carbon deposits and deposits are cleaned. That is, thanks to this cleaning, the engine returns to its former power and characteristics.

I don’t argue; this fact of cleaning has, in fact, been confirmed. But the disadvantages can outweigh all the advantages.

Why should you not use dimexide?

First, you need to understand that dimexide is a very aggressive agent. This suggests that in addition to all sorts of toxins, it can dissolve everything necessary.

And no specific studies have ever been conducted and no one fully knows about all the possible consequences. The use of dimexide came from enthusiasts who like to experiment, so there are no successful guarantees here. Those. You will perform all actions at your own risk.

Reviews show that the use of dimexide can lead to these problems:

The aggressive properties of dimexide lead to the destruction of the enamel of the engine pan. In addition to enamel, dimexide negatively affects the condition of any plastic parts and gaskets - i.e. they can also be corroded.
All the dirt that comes off risks clogging the car's oil system. Those. the dirt peels off from the parts, but does not have time to dissolve and clogs everything.

These two phenomena are one hundred percent proven and can happen to anyone who decides to use this method. There are a lot of reviews on various auto forums confirming these facts.

Cylinder head gasket that can be corroded by dimexide

Also, some car enthusiasts, after flushing with dimexide, experience detonation and scuffing of the cylinders. But it’s difficult to say for sure whether this is only due to the effect of dimexide.

So, all those who talk about the miraculous properties of dimexide focus only on its advantages, i.e.
on its excellent cleaning properties, but they are silent about its serious disadvantage - excessive aggressiveness. Therefore, I do not recommend using this method - why take another risk. I personally did not use this method on my car, but I witnessed how my friend used it. The result was that the cylinder head gasket and the paint on the pan were corroded. So think a hundred times before doing such experiments.

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A tale about decarbonization with Dimexide. Personal experience. #1

Hi all. I am extremely skeptical about decoking. I stick to the formulation “if grandma stinks, then grandma is dead,” but this seems to be a different case. I took my wife a half-dead Peugeot 206 1.4. The engine smoked blue, there was no thrust. But it worked smoothly and the compression was 10 points. (Naturally due to the oil). There was no extraneous noise, I removed the valve cover, there was not a hint of carbon deposits, and there was no wear on the camshaft cams either. At first I thought about changing the caps. But then something went wrong. And after watching enough on YouTube, especially that dude with a Passat and a Mazda 3, I decided to try it. Moreover, there is no point in losing if you still have to inspect the rings, etc. But not like them, so that it goes directly into the entire engine, but only into the cylinders. I took off the coil and spark plugs. And with a 20-cc syringe I poured a full syringe into each cylinder. The engine was hot at that moment! Dimexide is such a creature that we had +4, but it crystallized. So the engine is definitely hot. I left it for 30 minutes, screwed in the spark plugs, and it wouldn't start. It sounds as if there is no timing belt (Dimexide washed away the compression, or rather the oil, from the cylinder walls and it disappeared). I poured 20g of oil into each cylinder. Does not start. They started to drag it on a rope. It doesn’t even catch, the spark plugs are wet and there’s no point. I quit until the morning. I came in the morning and started looking for a spark (I had an epic problem with a spark for a week. Since I am a car mechanic, and now is the season of preparing a car for winter, and in particular tire fitting, there was simply no time to go to the car) and yesterday, I drove it into the box. The scanner got stuck. The scanner showed errors on coil breakage, injector breakage, lambda breakage. Since I’m not an electrician, and I didn’t really know where to dig, I decided to call all the wires in the engine compartment. Eventually. Everything is whole. And even the coil produces normal resistance. I left it in the box overnight. I came in the morning and couldn’t get to work with her right away. And something pulled me to look into the pre-volt block under the hood. I found a diagram on the forums for what. But it turns out there is a pred. On the reel. I pull it out. Iii.

Cursing all over the box, what kind of donkey sniffed me, I changed the fuse to 30a. I charge the battery, the car starts up, but doesn’t start the first time.. The box instantly starts to smell like rotten eggs (there is Dimexide in the combustion chambers, and it is very smelly). We roll out onto the street. and in our service there is such a small industrial zone. I'm launching. Started up! Smokes naturally like a beast. People from neighboring buildings immediately scream terrorist). I sit down and drive into the backyard. And I’m filming this video for my friend.

ATTENTION IN VIDEO MATERIAL.

This is right after I started it. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos of what was happening every minute. But at first glance there is an effect (although the car stinks of dimexide).

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Hi all! Attention! Before decarbonizing with Dimexide, you must make sure that there are no painted parts inside the internal combustion engine.

After reading the most interesting articles in this community, the thought firmly stuck in my head that I urgently needed to try the decarbonization procedure. Of the available products in my small town, only Dimexide is available in the pharmacy. What prompted me to this idea was a strange oil burn and uneven compression (1-11.2; 2-11.5; 3-12.0; 4-10.8). The strange thing about oil consumption is this: during the first 4000 km, oil consumption is 0-100 g. Up to 8000 engine can eat up to 1.5 liters of oil! LIQUI MOLY Optimal 10W-40 oil. A friend has been pouring it into his premium 1NZ engine for over 9 years. There is no oil consumption on its engine, with rare exceptions of 200-300g. Replacement interval is about 8000 km. Why does it only last 4000 km in my engine and then burn out?! We buy in one place. Moreover, it does not burn inside the engine, you can see it under the valve cover! Caps? Oil rings? If so, why does nothing leak anywhere until 4000 km? Here's a mystery...

So the object of the experiments is Toyota Carina AT170 1989. engine 5AF carburetor. The mileage of the engine is not known for certain, I changed the engine, they sent it to me from Khabarovsk with a stated mileage of 78,000 km, I drove about 40,000 km on it. I decided to decarbonize according to CrazyMaxx’s instructions, but everything didn’t go quite according to plan, but first things first. First, I started removing paint from the pallet, using dimexide to remove it. At first I wanted to buy a paint remover, but after reading a post in this community about the unsuccessful use of special chemicals to remove paint, I decided to wash it directly with dimexide. At the time of cleaning the pan from paint, the mileage on oil was about 6500 km with an oil consumption of approximately 700 g. And draining the already quite dark oil, I didn’t want to fill it in again (this is where I made a mistake), I changed the filter and filled in fresh oil with a viscosity of 5W40 produced either by Gazprom or Rosneft (I don’t know the manufacturer because this is the oil for me a friend fitted it) and I wanted to use it as a transport oil for flushing. Having warmed up the engine to operating temperature and heated the Dimexide in a water bath (the water was boiling), I unscrewed the spark plugs, set pots 1 and 4 to TDC, poured 100 ml of Dimexide into all cylinders, I did not track the compression cycle - there was no compression gauge at that time. I wanted to stir up the dimexide in the cylinders with a plastic tube and a drill, but after the first attempt, I pulled out the tube and abandoned this idea; the tube floated due to the temperature and the dimexide, and I didn’t really want its blades to remain in the cylinder. I took a syringe with a vacuum hose and simply drove this slurry back and forth, picking it up and again splashing it into the cylinder, and this went on for about half an hour. Then I pumped out what was left from the cylinders, blew it out as best I could with a compressor, turned the starter, installed the spark plugs and started it. The engine started right away, but was very unstable and with vibration. Warmed it up for 5-7 minutes and tried to turn it off, BUT FUCK IT, IT WOULDN’T STOP! When the ignition was turned off, the engine continued to run with wild detonation for 5-7 seconds, then I turned the ignition on 3 times until it finally stalled, what was that? Why didn't she go deaf? I put pots 2 and 3 in the VMT again, poured 100 ml of hot dimexide into all cylinders and stirred up the stinking liquid with a syringe for half an hour. I pumped out the remainder, blew it out, put the pistons in a row and poured another 50 ml of dimexide into each. I tightened the spark plugs and turned the crankshaft by the pulley nut 20 revolutions in order to push the dimexide through the rings. I unscrewed the spark plugs, all cylinders are dry except the third? On the 3rd I pumped out 15 ml of dimexide. Why... did he stay there? I poured about 100g of acetone into the pots to better pump out the remaining dimexide and coke and pumped it out. I blew out the compressor and starter, installed spark plugs. It was then that I realized that it was in vain to fill in the transport oil in advance. The procedure for flushing the engine “from below” was unsuccessful. I poured a total of 1100 ml of dimexide into the pots, pumped out a maximum of 300 grams, something leaked into the manifold and a lot leaked into the engine.

Decarbonization with DIMEXIDE from A to Z.

I want to share with you the MOST EFFECTIVE way to decarbonize an engine.

In addition to decoking, we wash out the varnish and sludge that has accumulated over years of operation from the engine.

I had oil consumption depending on the time of year (1-2l per 5000 km)

And now the level after a run of 5000 km is at the maximum as it was when replaced.

I'll tell you step by step how and what to do.

Tested personally on myself, and the effect will simply amaze you.

To get started we will need:

DIMEXIDE 16pcs 100ml(

35rub 100ml). for a 4-cylinder engine (I will indicate the formula for the dosage of 6 or 8 cylinder engines at the end).

Three oil filters (three cheapest ones are possible).
Mineral oil for 3 changes (depending on your volume). I used the most inexpensive Luxe 15w40 (
450 rubles for 4 liters)
The main oil you always use.
Oil filter (original or at your discretion, a good analogue)
Sealant for gaskets (I used black Abro
70rub.)
If you can find a 20ml syringe, 40ml is better.
Thick rubber gloves, a hose from a dropper or any hose suitable for a syringe is at least 20 cm long.

From the optional:

Since dimexide is a very powerful dissolver, it can lift paint from your pallet and it can clog the oil pump. To do this, either remove your standard one and sandblast/sand the inside with a grinder drill, or, as I did, buy the cheapest non-original pallet. In my case it cost 950 rubles. I thought that this was a justified waste, since, firstly, I don’t have to clean my standard pallet and waste time on it, and secondly, just in case, I have another pallet in reserve.

You can simply clean yours, BUT YOU MUST REMOVE THE CARKA FROM THE PALLET.

I also had a regular drain bolt, instead I installed it with a neodymium magnet (magnetic bolt in the Masuma pan, article number “M49” (M12 pitch 1.25)

160 rubles, which catches small chips and metal dust that is found in every engine.

I also installed old spark plugs while cleaning (but this is not necessary at all).

Another important point is to disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose (usually connected to the throttle valve on modern cars).

And so let's get started.

We have already drained the old oil and screwed in a new oil filter.

The pallet has already been cleared of paint.

Fill the “mineral oil” to the middle of the dipstick.

We start the engine for one minute so that the new oil spreads through all channels and lubricates the entire engine.

Now turn it off and pour Dimexide into the oil filler neck.

I strongly recommend using rubber gloves when working with dimexide and avoiding contact with open areas of the body (including hands) and also avoid spilling it on plastic parts and paintwork.

Calculation formula:

Start the engine and let it idle, turn on the heater to maximum heat, this will reduce the load on the engine and eliminate premature detonation.

Approximate engine operating time is about 1 hour.

Next, drain the oil, change the oil filter and start again. Only this time, slightly accelerating. Alternate idling and accelerating until

2500 rpm no higher. Then again, idle and try to keep the gas in one position, catching the work at the same 2500 rpm, only holding them.

For the third replacement, do everything in the same way as the first two, but now at the end do not drain the oil, unscrew the spark plugs and, using a wrench or ratchet, rotate the crankshaft by the pulley bolt to set the cylinders to the middle position.

Now, while the engine is hot, pour 100 ml of Dimexide into each cylinder and screw the spark plugs back in.

This will create a steam bath, thereby cleaning the rings.

Once every 5 minutes, rock the cylinders back and forth (slightly). After about 20 minutes, you can pump out the black liquid from the cylinders with a syringe with a tube. Drain the oil and remove the filter.

Now install a good oil filter and fill in your oil.

That's all, now your engine is clean and will stop consuming oil in the same volumes.

After this procedure, I drove 5100 km in intensive mode with heavy loads, and my oil level was the same as when filling. It didn’t burn or eat even a millimeter on the dipstick. Which I’m incredibly happy about and what I’m sharing with you.

If you have already done this procedure, please share the results.

And if there are any questions left, I will try to answer or clarify.

Are such remedies effective?

Many experienced car owners claim that with the help of dimexide it is possible not only to prevent the appearance of plaque on the injectors, but also to eliminate existing dense deposits. However, tests carried out, including on foreign cars and domestic cars, did not show any improvement in the condition of the engine. Therefore, most experts still recommend not using such improvised means, but removing plaque with the help of specialized auto chemicals.

Today, you can find various auto chemicals on sale in specialized stores designed to prevent the formation of deposits on injectors and improve the condition of the fuel system. Such products are effective, easy to use, and, unlike dimexide, allow you to remove dense deposits, restoring the engine even in cars that have a mileage of 200-300 thousand kilometers or more.

If there are significant deposits in the engine, the injectors do not spray fuel correctly, and the car owner has not taken care of the injection for many years, then even the use of the most effective chemicals and fuel additives in such a case will not solve the existing problems.

In such a case, you will need to take the car to a service center, perform diagnostics, and then use ultrasound or special powerful additives with a solvent to flush the injection, which is performed on special high-pressure installations. Carrying out such work allows you to restore the engine’s performance, eliminates all existing contaminants, thereby increasing its power and improving fuel efficiency.

Effective cleaning or dimexide in oil for engine flushing and decarbonization

The formation of deposits in the engine occurs for various reasons. Oil quality, operating modes, completeness of fuel combustion and its level of properties - this is not a complete, but the main list of factors affecting the internal state of power unit parts. Preventive measures have long been developed. Their basis is the use of a branded cleaning product. Of course, the popular base has also been experimentally developed. We’ll talk about one of the technologies discovered by garage craftsmen.

Pouring dimexide into the cylinders or decoking the engine yourself with a first aid

Preparation for decoking procedures

When adding dimexide to engine flushing oil or pouring medicine into the cylinders, you should take care of the appropriate state of the environment. It is optimal to carry out work in the warm season or in a heated garage. The transition of the drug into a solid form during decarbonization only slightly complicates the technical process - just pour boiled water or acetone into the “pots” and pump out the mixture. When washing, crystallization should not be allowed.

Before cleaning, it would be a good idea to refer to reviews about the use of dimexide in a car engine. In addition to its positive properties, the drug has quite a few negative sides. For example, solvent peels off paint at an accelerated rate and destroys plastic. Therefore, before decarbonizing, you should make sure that there are no plastic parts in the engine and remove the enamel from the pan.

Tools

To carry out decoking activities you will need the following materials and equipment:

Construction hairdryer.
Drill.
File.
Hairpin M6x400.
Janet syringe with a tube.
Matches or lighter.
Fluoroplastic tube with an outer diameter of 8 mm and a length of 40 cm.
A device for unscrewing spark plugs.
A driver with a head for the crankshaft pulley rotation nut.
Heat shrink 10 cm long.
Metal containers with a volume of less than 1 liter.
Coarse abrasive polish.
Long equal pieces of sticks or other objects of short length in an amount equal to the number of cylinders.
200-400 ml DMSO per cylinder + 200-300 ml for paint removal.

Removing enamel from a pallet

As already noted, decoking the engine with dimexide into the cylinders is undesirable without cleaning the painted parts. There are several ways to remove paint from the bottom of the crankcase and dipstick:

Douse the part with gasoline and set it on fire - the enamel will burn off.
Apply DMSO (0.2-0.3 l.) to the inner surface heated with a hairdryer. Before making the transition, it is advisable to degrease the container.

Device for stirring the mixture

Pouring DMSO into the “pots” is not enough.
It is necessary that the composition thoroughly soaks away deposits on all surfaces of the combustion chamber, and not just on the piston and part of the cylinder. You can twist the flow with a fluoroplastic tube, which is resistant to various types of chemicals and high temperatures. It is possible to transmit torque to the tube by means of a pin fitted with tension into the inner hole of the hose. It’s easy to build the device:

Make one of the ends of the stud rounded.
Polish the end with an abrasive compound.
Place heat shrink tubing on the hairpin and heat it with a match or lighter.
Cut one end of the tube 2 cm in length and separate the ends at 90 degrees in different directions.
Place the fluoroplastic tube onto the hairpin.
Secure the resulting structure in the drill chuck.

Decarbonization technique

The idea of decoking measures is to remove carbon deposits from the walls of the combustion chamber with an aggressive solvent. To do this, just pour the prepared mixture into the cylinders and stir with the “mixer” made in the previous paragraph. Since during such flushing of the enclosed space of the engine, dimexide will get into the oil, the latter will have to be replaced.

In more detail, the decarbonization process is as follows:

Warm up the power plant to operating temperature and stop.
Remove the spark plugs.
Set the pistons to the middle position (insert long sticks of equal length into the spark plug holes and rotate the crankshaft until the ends of the objects are aligned in one line).
Calculate the total volume of dimexide based on the number of cylinders.
Heat the required amount of medicine to 60-100°C in a metal container by heating it from below with a hair dryer.
Pour 100-200 ml of pharmaceutical preparation into each candle hole with a syringe.
Swirl the mixture in each cylinder with a manufactured “mixer”. Operating modes: 2,500 rpm; 3-5 minutes for each “pot”. The operation is performed alternately in two passes.
Pump out the used medicine using a syringe with a hose.
Repeat steps 5-8 again.

Method four - use of Dimexide

To clean injectors, you can also use the popular drug Dimexide, which is sold in any pharmacy and is very inexpensive. So, for work you will need:

Washing unit

the drug Dimexide (500 ml or more, depending on the degree of contamination);
a clean container for liquid with a lid, such as a bottle with a tight-fitting lid of about 500 ml;
two nipples;
drill (screwdriver) and 13 mm drill (for nipple diameter);
four containers in the form of test tubes, where contaminated liquid from the nozzles will be collected (separately for each nozzle);
battery or power supply 12 V;
air hose;
clamps;
Solvent solvent.

The cleaning procedure consists of the following steps:

Dismantling the ramp with nozzles.
Construction of a washing stand.
Checking injectors for performance (mounted with a ramp on a stand with transparent containers to evaluate the spray pattern and the amount of fuel released).
Soaking individual injectors in a container with dimexide (necessarily in a vertical position so that this aggressive agent does not get on the rubber seals).
Rinsing injection nozzles with dimexide under pressure for 10-15 minutes.
Flushing with solvent and blowing with compressed air (so that there is no product left in the nozzle).

We flush the engine by adding dimesoxide to the oil: complete instructions

Flushing activities are carried out by adding the drug to the heated oil emulsion. The technical process contains several stages. The number of repetitions of operations determines the degree of contamination of the power plant. Usually it is enough to treat the area three times with the preparation and two times with the flushing oil.

Preparatory procedures

As in the case of decarbonizing an engine with dimexide by adding it to the cylinders, it is necessary to remove paint from the internal parts of the engine. Detailed recommendations on this issue have already been given. Another goal of this stage is to prepare working fluids:

Dimexide - 28% of the usually poured volume.
Mineral lubricant 10W-40…15W-50: 285-325% of the rated quantity.
Flushing oil: double standard.
Nominal volume of working lubricant for normal operation.
5 oil filters.

DMSO Wash Procedure

During the cleaning process, experts recommend pouring the oil composition above the level. No negative consequences were noticed, but the cleaning properties are increased due to the fact that the dirt dissolves in a much larger volume and the lubricant remains clean longer. In general, the dimexide cleaning technology is as follows:

Add mineral composition to the crankcase in a volume of 30-50% of the specification.
Allow the power plant to reach operating thermal conditions and stop.
Heat the medicine to 40-50°C in an amount of 10% of the nominal volume of oil and add through the oil filler neck.
Start the engine and let it idle for about 45 minutes.
Drain the waste and install a new filter.
Fill with fresh mineral oil in an amount of 130-150% of the rated volume.
Carry out the actions specified in paragraphs 2, 3, 4.
Pour out the used lubricant and replace the oil filter.
Fill in a new mineral emulsion in a volume of 125% of the standard amount.
Warm up and, with the power plant stopped, add dimexide to the filled oil to flush the engine in various modes (8% of the oil system’s rated characteristics).
Start the engine and ensure it operates at 1,500 rpm for the first 5-10 minutes. For the remaining 20-25 minutes, operate the accelerator cyclically in the range of 1,500-3,500 rpm, gradually changing the nature of the operation from the lower limit to the upper limit and vice versa.
Drain the emulsion and install a new filter element.
Pour in flushing oil in the usual amount and ensure operation for 15-20 minutes.
Replace the filter with a new one, and the lubricant with flushing lubricant and again let it run at idle for 15-20 minutes.
Replace the lubricant and filter with operational ones.

Reviews show that the development of non-standard situations during flushing is possible. Knocks that arise during the implementation of the technology are “treated” by adding oil in small portions until the noise is eliminated. The risk of detonation is significantly reduced by disconnecting it from the intake manifold and venting crankcase gases outside. As an alternative, you can use flushing the engine with diesel oil - the effect is less noticeable, but the engine does not operate in extreme conditions.

How to clean the engine oil system with dimexide: a guide to action

Cleaning the oil system is done by adding the drug to heated oil. The operation is performed in several stages. Their number depends on the degree of contamination of the engine. On average, a three-stage treatment with a drug + double washing with a flushing oil emulsion is enough.

Preliminary activities

The preliminary stage of the method of how to properly flush a car engine with dimexide is to determine the presence of painted parts in the power plant. Usually this is a pan and a dipstick. DMSO removes paint, and therefore it must be removed before the cleaning process so that the peeled enamel does not clog the oil receiver mesh. Tips for removing paint are outlined above.

Working fluids

You must have in advance:

Medicine in an amount of 28% of the rated volume of the oil system.
Mineral oil 10W-40 or 15W-50: 185-225% of the usual lubricant quantity.
Flushing lubricant: double rated volume.
Working oil for long-term operation: normal quantity.
5 filters.

The procedure for using dimexide to clean internal combustion engines

The required components have been purchased. The car was taken to the repair site. Let's get started with the method:

Add mineral water through the oil filler neck to the existing waste. “Topping” volume: 30-50% of the passport volume.
Warm up the engine to operating temperature and turn off.
Heat DMSO to 40-50°C and add through the oil filler neck. Quantity – 10% of the standard quantity (without “topping up”).
Start the engine and leave it idling for 45 minutes.
Shut down, drain the waste and replace the oil filter.
Fill with fresh mineral water according to the passport + 30-50% of the filling volume.
Repeat the steps outlined in paragraphs 2, 3, 4.
Drain the “slurry” and install a new filter.
Pour in new mineral water (norm + 25% of the passport data).
Warm up the engine, stop, add heated medicine in an amount of 8% of the oil system's rated volume.
Start the power plant and “hold” 1,500 rpm for the first 5-10 minutes. Then work for 20-25 minutes in the range of 1,500-3,500 rpm cyclically (smoothly change from 1,500 to 3,500, then from 3,500 to 1,500 for 4-5 minutes). This facilitates cleaning of hydraulic drives and engine hydraulic compensators with dimexide without the risk of clogging small channels.
Drain the mixture and replace the filter.
Fill in the flushing lubricant in the nominal amount and let the unit run for 15-20 minutes at idle.
Empty the crankcase and replace the oil filter.
Repeat point 13.
Drain the waste, change the oil filter.
Fill in operating oil so that the mark on the dipstick is between the upper and lower divisions.

Attention! If during flushing you hear tapping sounds from the hydraulic compensators and phase shifters, add mineral water until the knocking noises disappear. Top up in portions of 100-200 ml.

Total

Dimexide is an effective solvent for various types of deposits that have accumulated over long-term engine operation. The drug can be used to both decarbonize and flush the engine. When following the described technologies, excellent results are achieved in both cases.

It is possible to combine flushing activities with decoking measures. First, you should flush the power plant with dimexide mixed with oil. This is done in three stages and at the end of the operation the oil emulsion is not drained. Next, decoking is performed: drain the oil and continue with the internal washing technology, according to which it remains to clean the engine twice with flushing lubricant.