Adjusting the automatic transmission cable: how to adjust the automatic transmission cable tata.su

Any driver knows that a serviceable car gives its owner a feeling of complete confidence on the road. However, even new cars, not to mention vehicles that have been in use for a long time, are not insured against the occurrence of certain breakdowns. In most cases, drivers do not react properly to the appearance of minor defects, postponing their elimination until later. But it is small breakdowns that can cause emergency situations that make the further movement of the car unsafe both for the people inside it and for other road users. Clutch malfunction is one of these types of malfunctions, so every car owner should know how, if necessary, to replace this mechanism on their own and how to adjust the clutch cable without outside help.

Adjusting the automatic transmission cable: subtleties and nuances

As a rule, during the operation of a car with an automatic transmission, various failures and malfunctions may occur. In this case, most often the driver may notice the appearance of jerks and jolts when changing gears, a car with an automatic transmission begins to consume more fuel, etc.

In this case, there may be many reasons, but among them the automatic transmission cable should be singled out. In this article we will talk about when and why the so-called automatic transmission tuning is needed, as well as how to check and adjust the automatic transmission cable.

Read in this article

Adjusting the throttle cable for Renault Logan 2004-2015

Repair manuals
Renault Logan 2004-2015
Adjusting the throttle cable

1. For visual inspection, remove the air filter (see “Removing and installing the air filter”).

2. Check the position of the throttle valve: with the accelerator pedal fully depressed (an assistant should do this), it should be completely open, and with the accelerator pedal released, it should be completely closed. Otherwise, the drive must be adjusted.

3. Remove the spring clamp from the slot of the cable tip and move the tip forward in the hole of the rubber damper until the damper closes completely. If the throttle valve does not open completely, move the end of the cable back to ensure that the throttle valve opens completely. Secure the cable end in the new position by inserting the bracket into its corresponding slot.

If by adjusting the throttle valve drive it is impossible to achieve full opening or closing of the throttle valve or the drive sticks, replace the throttle valve drive cable (see “Replacing the throttle valve drive cable”).

4. Reinstall the air filter.

↓ Comments ↓

Section 1. Vehicle design

General information about the vehicle Vehicle registration data Vehicle keys Controls Heating (air conditioning) and interior ventilation Doors Seat belts Seats Rear view mirrors Interior lighting Hood Gearbox control lever

Section 2. Recommendations for use

Safety rules and recommendations What you need to have in your car Running in the car Operating the car during the warranty period Preparing the car for departure

Section 3. Problems along the way

The engine will not start Malfunction of the fuel injection system Idle has disappeared Interruptions in the engine The vehicle moves jerkily The vehicle does not accelerate well The engine stalls while driving The oil pressure has dropped The engine is overheating The battery is not recharging The engine is started from external power sources Faulty electrical equipment Extraneous knocking noises Problems with the brakes Punctured wheel

Section 4. Maintenance

General provisions Daily maintenance (EO) First maintenance (MOT-1) Second maintenance (MOT-2)

Section 5. Engine

Design features Removing and installing mudguards and engine crankcase protection Replacing the suspension mounts of the power unit Installing the piston of the first cylinder to the TDC position of the compression stroke Replacing and adjusting the belt tension, replacing the tension roller of the gas distribution mechanism drive Adjusting the clearances in the valve drive Removing, installing and troubleshooting the flywheel Replacement engine seal parts Cylinder head Removal and installation of the engine Engine lubrication system Engine cooling system Exhaust system Power supply system

Section 6. Transmission

Clutch Gearbox Front wheel drives

Section 7. Chassis

Front suspension Rear suspension Checking and adjusting wheel alignment angles

Section 8. Steering

Design features Possible malfunctions of steering without hydraulic booster, their causes and methods of elimination Possible malfunctions of steering with hydraulic booster, their causes and methods of elimination Steering column Steering rods Steering mechanism

Section 9. Brake system

Features of the device Possible malfunctions of the brake system, their causes and solutions Bleeding the hydraulic drive of the brake system Checking and adjusting the brake pedal Master brake cylinder Vacuum brake booster Brake force regulator in the hydraulic drive of the rear brakes Replacing hoses and pipelines of the hydraulic brake drive Brake mechanisms of the front wheels Brake mechanisms of the rear wheels Parking brake

Section 10. Electrical equipment

Design features Diagnostics of malfunctions of on-board electrical equipment Mounting blocks Battery Generator Starter Ignition switch (lock) Engine control system Lighting, light and sound alarm Windshield wiper Removal and installation of the windshield washer Removal and installation of the electric motor of the radiator fan of the engine cooling system Electric heating of the rear window Removal and installation cigarette lighter socket Instrument cluster Immobilizer Instrument panel switches Car audio system Replacement of sensors and switches

Section 11. Body

Design features Possible body malfunctions, their causes and solutions Removal and installation of bumpers Removal and installation of radiator lining Removal and installation of wheel mudguards and fender liners Removal and installation of the front wing Hood Removal and installation of the air intake box grille Doors Trunk lid Removal and installation of the fuel filler hatch cover tank Seats Removal and installation of floor tunnel lining Passive safety system (SRS) Rear view mirrors Instrument panel Heater and air conditioner Interior fittings Removal and installation of interior linings Removal and installation of trunk lining Replacement of fixed body glazing Body care

Section 12. Wheels and tires

Technical characteristics Marking of rims Marking of tires Replacing wheels Tire break-in Tire storage Wheel balancing Snow chains Spare wheel Checking tire pressure Checking tire profile Checking valve Checking radial and lateral runout of rims

Section 13. Purchase of spare parts

Engine oil Lubricants Coolants Brake fluid Fuel filter Air filter Engine oil filter Spark plugs

Section 14. A trip to the service station

Section 15. Winter operation of the vehicle

How to prepare a car for winter Recommendations for starting the engine in severe frost What is useful to buy for winter Useful winter tips

Section 16. Preparation for technical inspection

Recommendations List of malfunctions and conditions under which the operation of vehicles is prohibited Changes to state standards regulating the maximum permissible content of harmful substances in the exhaust gases of motor vehicles

Section 17. Tips for a novice auto mechanic

Safety precautions when carrying out repair work Tools Before starting work Restoring threaded connections Tips for body repair

Applications

Appendix 1. Tightening torques of critical threaded connections, N m Appendix 2. Lamps used on a car Appendix 3. Spark plugs used on a car Appendix 4. Air pressure in tires

Electrical circuit diagrams

Diagram 1. Battery charging circuit: 1 – starter; 2 – generator; 3 – electrical wiring connector for the engine compartment/interior (monoblock); 4 – instrument cluster Diagram 2. Fuel pump and fuel level sensor: 1 – instrument cluster; 2 – electrical wiring connector for the engine compartment/interior (monoblock); 3 – electrical wiring connector for the instrument panel/left rear part of the body; 4 – fuel pump and fuel level sensor; 5 Diagram 3. Engine control system: 1 – 597V fuse box in the engine compartment (see Fig. 10.2a and 10.2b); 2 – relay block 784 in the engine compartment, relay 700 (see Fig. 10.2a and 10.2b); 3 – injector of the 1st cylinder; 4 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (see fig. 4. Engine starting system: 1 – battery; 2 – starter; 3 – engine compartment/cabinet electrical wiring connector (monoblock); 4 – ignition switch (lock) Diagram 5. Turn indicators and alarm system: 1 – interior switching unit; 2 – electrical wiring connector for the instrument panel/left rear part of the body; 3 – right rear light; 4 – right front turn signal; 5 – right indicator repeater Diagram 6. Side light: 1 – fuse box in the cabin (see Fig. 10.1); 2 – electrical wiring connector for the instrument panel/left rear part of the body; 3 – side light of the left headlight; 4 – left rear lamp; 5 – license plate lamp; 6 – Diagram 7. High beam : 1 – fuse box 597A in the engine compartment (see Fig. 10.2a and 10.2b); 2 – switch lever for external lighting and direction indicators with a button for turning on the sound signal; 3 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (see Fig. 10.1); 4 Diagram 8. Electrically heated rear window: 1 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (see. rice. 10.1); 2 – instrument cluster; 3 – electric heating of the rear window; 4 – electrical wiring connector for the instrument panel/left rear part of the body; 5 – electric heating switch for Scheme 9. Electric fan of the heating and ventilation system of the cabin: 1 – fuse box in the cabin (see Fig. 10.1); 2 – relay 233 (see Fig. 10.2a and 10.2b); 3 – wiring connector for the electric fan of the cooling system/instrument panel; 4 – electric fan Diagram 10. Front fog lights: 1 – instrument cluster; 2 – switch lever for external lighting and direction indicators with a button for turning on the sound signal; 3 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (see Fig. 10.1); 4 – relay block 299 in the engine compartment Diagram 11. Electric mirror drive: 1 – fuse block in the passenger compartment (see Fig. 10.1); 2 – control unit for external rear view mirrors; 3 – electric drive of the left outside rear view mirror with heating; 4 – electric drive of the right outside rear mirror Diagram 12. Low beam: 1 – fuse block 597A in the engine compartment (see Fig. 10.2a and 10.2b); 2 – switch lever for external lighting and direction indicators with a button for turning on the sound signal; 3 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (see Fig. 10.1); 4 Diagram 13. Front door power windows: 1 – front passenger door power window switch; 2 – electric motor for window lift of the front passenger door; 3 – driver’s door window lift motor; 4 – block before Scheme 14. Electric fan of the heating (air conditioning) system and interior ventilation: 1 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (see Fig. 10.1); 2 – relay 233 (see Fig. 10.2a and 10.2b); 3 – electrical wiring connector for the engine compartment/interior (monoblock); 4 – electric fan Diagram 15. Sound signal: 1 – lever of the switch for external lighting and direction indicators with a button for turning on the sound signal; 2 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (see Fig. 10.1); 3 – sound signal; 4 – fuse block 597A in the engine compartment (see Diagram 16. Central locking system: 1 – interior switching unit; 2 – electrical wiring connector for the instrument panel/left rear part of the body; 3 – electric drive for the right rear door lock; 4 – electric drive for the left rear door lock doors; 5 – electric drive Diagram 17. ABS control system: 1 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (see Fig. 10.1); 2 – fuse box 597C in the engine compartment (see Fig. 10.2a and 10.2b); 3 – ABS ECU ; 4 – electrical wiring connector for the instrument panel/left rear part of the body; 5 – speed sensor Diagram 18. Windshield wiper and washer, headlight washer: 1 – windshield washer pump; 2 – instrument cluster; 3 – interior switching unit; 4 – electric motor windshield wiper; 5 – wiper and washer switch lever Diagram 19. Interior lamp: 1 – interior switching unit; 2 – electrical wiring connector for the instrument panel/left rear part of the body; 3 – interior lamp; 4 – driver’s door limit switch; 5 – limit switch of the right front door; Diagram 20. Connecting the speakers of the acoustic system: 1 – car radio; 2 – electrical wiring connector for the engine compartment/interior (monoblock); 3 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (see Fig. 10.1); 4 – cigarette lighter; 5 – vehicle speed sensor; 6 – right front Diagram 21. Rear fog lamp: 1 – fuse block 597A in the engine compartment (see Fig. 10.2a and 10.2b); 2 – switch lever for external lighting and direction indicators with a button for turning on the sound signal; 3 – fuse box in the passenger compartment (

Automatic transmission cable: how to adjust and check

First of all, during operation the automatic transmission cable stretches. Also, on different cars, tuning is performed taking into account a number of features.

Some other car enthusiasts adjust the cable to their own individual needs, making adjustments experimentally.

So, for those who like to drive aggressively, the automatic transmission cable needs to be tightened. For a smooth and measured ride, loosening it slightly is more suitable. One way or another, the main thing is to find the optimal balance. If the settings are made correctly, the result will be smoother gear shifts and the automatic transmission operates more smoothly.

It is not difficult to guess that the “golden mean” is determined not only by tensioning and loosening the cable. At the same time, do not forget that in addition to the automatic transmission cable, you also have to adjust the throttle cable, throttle valve, etc. Often the adjustment process also concerns the idle air valve.

As for the structure of the automatic transmission cable, this element on many cars has a cover, a fixed metal thickening - a boss, as well as adjusting nuts.
Before making adjustments, you should warm up the engine and automatic transmission. For the transmission to reach operating temperatures, you need to drive 10-15 km, then at idle after the trip the engine cooling fan should turn on at least 2 times;
Next, you should inspect the automatic transmission cable fastenings. The cable must be secured to the bracket (above the throttle lever), to the bracket to the left of the lever, and also to the pipe;
Then you need to turn off the engine and then press the gas pedal. The throttle lever must rotate completely so that there is no free play.
Now the gas pedal is released, the lever will return to its original position. If the lever has free play, then the cable should be adjusted using the locknuts on the bracket. Shifting the cable along the bracket to the left means it is being tightened, and shifting to the right means it is loosening.

To check the operation of the automatic transmission after adjustment, you need to pay attention to how gears are switched from low to high and vice versa, and in different modes. If you lightly press the gas pedal and shifts occur with jerks, this means that the automatic transmission cable is too tight. If slipping or jerking in pairs is noticeable, this indicates a strong weakening of the cable.

Also, the operation of the box should be checked separately in kick-down mode. First, you need to accelerate the car to 50-60 km/h, then release the gas pedal and press it all the way again. If, when pressed, the box “thinks”, after which a smooth jerk appears during kick-down, this indicates that the cable is loose. A sharp jerk without a pause indicates that the cable is overtightened.

Next, without releasing the pedal (you need to hold it in the same position), you should continue driving until the automatic transmission begins to switch from a lower gear to a higher one. If the settings were made incorrectly, in kick-down mode the engine will first spin up strongly, but the desired gear may not be accurately engaged when exiting kick-down.

This indicates that the automatic transmission cable is overtightened. After it weakens, the race must be repeated. If the result is unsatisfactory, the cable adjustment is carried out again. By the way, it is better to invite an assistant for this purpose, since it is more convenient when one person in the cabin presses on the gas, and the other at the same time loosens or tightens the cable using locknuts.

It is also important to take into account that each driver presses the gas differently (some people press the pedal to the floor with force, others press the pedal gradually and not so sharply). It happens that if a third-party specialist adjusts the cable, he does it “to suit himself,” while the owner, having started the movement, may be dissatisfied with the result. For this reason, it is optimal for the driver himself to take part in test runs.

Front derailleur on a bicycle

The transition to setting this mechanism is possible only when the rear derailleur is configured. It is important to take this feature into account before starting work. Figure 2 shows a switch (round, black).

Rice. 2 Adjusting the front derailleur

The chain must be left on the middle sprocket of the front block, and installed on the large sprocket in the rear block. If chain friction is observed, then engage adjuster L again. To adjust limiter H, the chain is moved to the largest sprocket at the front and the smallest at the rear. The adjuster will help set the chain in the optimal position without friction and excessive chain tension. At the end of the work, be sure to check the quality of its work.

Tips and tricks

Before starting any adjustments, you need to clearly understand what result needs to be achieved as a result of the automatic transmission settings. If you need smooth shifting, the cable needs to be loosened (the cable is lengthened when one adjusting nut is unscrewed and the other is tightened).

Also, we should not forget that the throttle cable and its adjustment also help influence the operation of the automatic transmission. The main thing is to perform each operation correctly, clearly understanding what result this or that action will lead to. If everything is done correctly, the result will be a carefully tuned automatic transmission, and for a specific driver.

Why the automatic transmission kicks, the automatic transmission jerks when changing gears, jerks, jerks and impacts occur in the automatic transmission: the main reasons.

Automatic transmission slipping when changing gears: the main reasons why an automatic transmission slips. Box diagnostics, troubleshooting.

The automatic transmission does not change gears: the car does not move forward or backward, the automatic transmission does not switch to individual gears, reasons.

Is it possible to tow a car with an automatic transmission: basic rules and recommendations. What you need to consider if a car with an automatic transmission is towing another car.

Automatic transmission selector: basic functions. Types of automatic transmission selectors: steering column, push-button, floor. Malfunction of the automatic transmission selector.

Driving a car with an automatic transmission: how to use an automatic transmission, operating modes of an automatic transmission, rules for using this transmission, tips.

How to replace a shift cable

Normal operation of semi-professional equipment assumes that by 5,000 km the steel rope stretches to a critical value and it is better to replace it. In terms of years, this should happen once every four to five years when driving “on business”.

For castling you will need auxiliary tools. This is a screwdriver with a bit suitable for the screws securing the shifter housing cover. After all, with the lid closed, it will not be possible to replace it. You also need a key to release the cable on the switch. It is secured with either a nut or a hexagon screw.

Side cutters, a chisel, a hammer and an anvil will come in handy. They will help you trim the excess cable and fix the tip at its end to prevent the fibers from unraveling. By the way, unraveling the fibers at the installation stage is as easy as shelling pears. It is enough to cut the item poorly or recklessly insert it into the shirt, and the product will become unusable.

The height of perfection is to process the cut cable on a sharpening machine. The outline of the cut end will take on a look as close as possible to the factory one. By the way, decent models come from the factory with sealed ends.

When replacing, it is recommended to adhere to the following steps:

Switch the chain to the smallest sprocket at the rear and front.
Unscrew the shifter cover.
Unscrew the cable securing bolt on the switch.
Remove the cable through the shifter.
Change shirts.
Try on the steel rope and trim off the excess.
Put on the cable.
Secure the metal piece to the switch.
Install the cover on the shifter.
Adjust the transfer.

When installing new shirts, it is important to correctly assess their length. The cable should not break, and there should not be any excess “reserve”. The best option is to cut from the factory shirt removed from the bike. If this is not possible, then follow a simple rule - the tip of the shell must fit coaxially into the boss on the frame. Deviations from the parallelism of the axes are unacceptable - the cable will be broken, as a result of which it will quickly wear out, and the smoothness of the ride will disappear.

We described in detail the procedure for adjusting the rear derailleur, as well as the technology for adjusting the front derailleur. It is not necessary to repeat all the steps; it is enough to work with the adjusting drum located near the derailleur or in the shifter. It is important to remember here that the drum should not be twisted too much, otherwise the clarity of gear shifting will suffer.

Taking this into account, the cable fastening bolt may have to be unscrewed again in order to tighten it within the small stroke of the adjusting drum. To tighten the cable in the rear derailleur, just press the frame a little and tighten the bolt without unnecessary tension.

Adjusting the automatic transmission cable

If you are a fan of an aggressive driving style, then the cable should be tightened. If you drive smoothly and measuredly, the cable tension is weakened. This way we will achieve uniform gear shifting and reduce fuel consumption. Optimal behavior of the car on the road is achieved experimentally, by tensioning and loosening the cable. After all, the service life of the box is different for everyone, and over time the cable tends to stretch.

We prepare the car. We warm up the engine, make sure that the automatic transmission cable is secured at three points: on the bracket above the throttle lever, on the bracket to the left of the lever, on the pipe.

We press the gas pedal. In this case, the throttle lever should turn without any remaining free play. Let's release the pedal. The lever returns all the way to its original position. If we detect free play of the lever, then we adjust the cable using the locknuts on the bracket. When we move the cable along the bracket to the left, we tighten it. If it's to the right, we weaken it.

For the first adjustment, let's try to tighten the cable slightly, just one turn of the nut. After which you should drive the car a little and see how the car behaves. If you are not satisfied with the result of something in the operation of the automatic transmission, continue the adjustment.

How do we check the operation of the box?

We switch gears from low to high and vice versa. If switching occurs with jolts when you lightly press the gas pedal, the cable has been pulled. If there is slippage or double jerks, the cable is weakened. Now let's try to go into kick-down. In this case, the speed should be constant, around 70 km/h, with the pedal released. If we feel a pause and a smooth jerk during the transition to kick-down, then the cable is weakened. If the jerk is sharp and there is no pause, the cable is too tight.

Advice: it is most convenient to carry out adjustments in tandem with an assistant. The car owner presses the pedal, and the assistant carries out all the manipulations with loosening and tightening the nuts. After all, everyone has their own pressure on the pedal. Some people press it, others just lightly touch it. Hence the different adjustments.

Automatic transmission cable Video

When manipulating the cable, it would be nice to have an automatic transmission repair manual on hand. The process of adjusting the cable in most of them is described in sufficient detail. But what adjustments you personally and your car need are decided directly by the car owner, based on the characteristics of the car’s operation.

izocimov › Blog › Automatic transmission cable or how to adjust the cable on an automatic transmission

Hello friends. I already wrote about adjusting the cable in a used Toyota, but here I wanted to describe the general principle of operation and adjustment of the automatic transmission cable using the example of a simple hydromechanical automatic transmission.

So, let's begin. Here is an example of what an automatic transmission cable usually looks like connected to the throttle valve; in our case, the engine is an injection one.

Now about the pressure that is opposed to the “throttle” pressure. The pressure from the centrifugal regulator depends proportionally on the vehicle speed. It increases as the speed increases and tries to “push” the valves in the control plate, which are supported by springs of different hardness (they are responsible for shifting gears). If the pressure from the centrifugal regulator becomes greater than the force of decompression of the flow of one of the valves in the control plate (remember that pressure from the throttle regulator acts along with the flow, which also tries to distribute the flow), then the valve collapses and opens the passage of dextron pressure to the clutches, so the automatic transmission shifts to the next gear.

But now it’s time for the “kickdown”. If you read what I wrote above, you will be able to understand the principle. When “slippers hit the floor”, the pressure from the throttle regulator increases so much that it pushes one of the valves in the control plate back. Because of this, the passage of dextron to the fructions is blocked, they expand... The automatic transmission switches to a lower gear.

How to adjust the cable?

you might ask. So here it is:

— pulled the cable tighter. Gear shifting now occurs at high speeds (for example, about >3800-4200), let’s call it “sport mode”))

— make a weak tension on the cable. It will shift at rpm around 2300-2500

— if you completely release the cable, the switching occurs at almost 2000 rpm. It seems to be an economical mode, but only with slow shifting the clutches will wear out a little faster. There will be no kick down.

In each specific case, make the adjustment according to the manual for your car, but do not forget that the cable can stretch over time, or if the cable jacket is damaged, the cable “shrinks.” Look carefully in this case, because... visually it may be that the cable is in order, but in fact it will always be slightly tense.

Thank you for your attention! I would be glad if I helped someone)

Rear speed limiter screws

These elements are designed to limit the movement path of the rear derailleur. Typically, stop screws are installed in the rear section of the main switch structure. They block his movements, preventing him from moving beyond the peripheral stars. Thanks to this, the chain does not jump off.

Often, adjusting the extreme levels of the switch is performed on a newly released bike and is no longer necessary to do it later. However, if during the process of switching to peripheral sprockets, the chain starts to jump off every now and then, it is necessary to adjust the screws. This will give the switch the optimal position. However, we should not forget that jumping of the chain is usually caused by a bent frame or a deformed cock. Therefore, you will need to straighten them, returning them to their previous shape. As a last resort, replace it. Failure to do so could result in serious injury to the cyclist.

The limiter screws that are equipped with modern speed switches are marked with English letters such as “H” and “L”. High gears are designated first. The second is low. It is noteworthy that the old switches were not marked. But on them it was possible to clearly see which of the installed screws fit snugly close to the frame itself, and also makes it difficult to move.

UnQuaiz › Blog › About adjusting the automatic transmission cable *note

“...In the manual everything is written clearly and understandably about the adjustment, but since as a rule the cable remains slightly weakened, this manifests itself, for example, like this: when switching 2-3 only in D4 mode, it is thought that if you don’t press the gas sharply, otherwise There is also a double jerk. The main thing: the engine must be warmed up, the automatic transmission cable is secured in three places: on the bracket to the left of the throttle lever, on the cooling system pipe above the transmission, on the bracket above the throttle lever of the transmission. First, we adjust the gas cable: when you press the gas pedal all the way (BUT DO NOT PUSH THE PEDAL INTO THE CARPET!) the throttle lever should turn all the way - without any remaining free play; if you release the pedal not too sharply, the lever should return to its original position all the way. The adjustment is made with assistance. 2 locknuts securing the cable to the bracket to the right of the throttle lever. Shifting the cable along the bracket to the right means tension, to the left means loosening. The nuts turn with TWO open-end “12” ones. After that - the automatic transmission cable. It is adjusted with the same locknuts on the bracket to the LEFT of the throttle lever. Shifting the cable along the bracket to the left means tension, to the right means loosening. It must be tightened so that the triangular throttle lever of the box begins to turn simultaneously with the beginning of rotation of the intake throttle lever. When you release the gas pedal, the box throttle should return all the way (not have free play “down”), and the exposed section of the cable near the lever should not have any slack. When the gas pedal is pressed all the way, the automatic transmission throttle lever should have a small free play - i.e. It is slightly underturned all the way when the gas pedal is pressed to the floor. It's kind of a theory. In practice, it is more difficult to notice by eye the simultaneous rotation of both levers - automatic transmission and throttle, as well as the sagging of the cable. Therefore, it is better to go by the symptoms: as a rule, everyone’s cables are SIGNIFICANTLY stretched - everyone’s cars are not from 2003. This often manifests itself in the fact that on D3 everything “seems” to be normal, but on D4 there is thoughtfulness, for example, only when switching 2-3 with the gas pedal lightly pressed. I became convinced that it is almost impossible to make the adjustment correctly the first time. Therefore, the first time we start with a VERY SMALL tightening - literally one turn of the left lock nut of the automatic transmission cable clockwise. The main thing is not to overdo it: the tightened cable pleases with a deceptively good effect - the shifting is clear, with a noticeable press on the gas it switches to a lower one and accelerates sharply in any mode D3-D4 - it would seem that everything is OK, but the shifting becomes very hard and QUICKLY leads to noticeable shocks in the box, especially when releasing the gas and braking). After tightening, you need to drive on D4 and only on D4 (this mode is most sensitive to an incorrect cable) - test drive (the most important thing in adjustment). Each test drive includes 4 checks, each check is repeated 3 times in one test: 1. Shifting 1-4 during acceleration with the gas pedal very lightly pressed should occur WITH JOKES, but without pops, knocks (the cable is pulled) or slipping, double jerking (the cable is weakened). 2. Shifting 1-4 when accelerating with the gas pedal pressed firmly should occur with extended jerks – i.e. at the moment of switching, the car noticeably “throws” forward - there should be no pops or jerks (the cable is tightened) - it’s just that the switching process itself should noticeably lengthen, become smoother, and the car should jump; If it doesn’t “throw out”, or even slows down at the moment of switching, the cable is weakened. 3. Transition to kick-down from coasting (the pedal is released, the speed is constant, low (about 70) - with a smooth jerk and a pause (if there is no pause, and the jerk is sharp, very short, or even with a sound, the cable will be pulled Pay special attention to the end of acceleration - after gaining speed (both smoothly and intensely) when releasing the gas (for the test, it is advisable to release the pedal completely and sharply after acceleration), switching to 4 should happen softly, WITHOUT A JERK, pause or sound . Please note that the last test will not work correctly "from the hill" - the PROSMATEC system reacts to this and will begin to brake with the engine. Remember - you HAVE TENSIONED the cable, which means that you are doing the indicated test drive to check the "tightness" of the cable. If after the first tightening the old symptoms are still there, but less so - tighten it another 1/2 turn and again ride on D4 acceleration-reset and roll-up-kickdown. So several iterations (3-4), which in practice guarantee “hitting the mark.” When on D4 you set up and check the cable in this way (from the 3-4th time) - D3 will strongly resemble the sport mode, and on D4 it will FINALLY be possible to drive around the city. If the cable was loosened before adjustment, the shocks when switching will be a little more noticeable on the adjusted cable - but this is the nature of the Honda gearbox. The main thing is that no symptoms arise in these 4 test modes. Then normal driving will bring pleasure from the “invisibility” of the automatic transmission.”…

Answer

Posts: 19 • Page 1 of 2 • 1 ,

Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

Draiver2000 » June 20, 2013, 10:51
A couple of days ago I became concerned about the automatic transmission not working properly, the problem was that the automatic transmission shifted somehow wrong, kicked and at very unnecessary moments fell into a reduced speed due to which the car drove very poorly uphill . Before the 2013 festival, I changed the injection (ignition) angle by setting it a little earlier (turning the fuel injection pump towards the engine), as a result of which the car became more responsive and fuel consumption decreased, but the automatic transmission began to work incorrectly. I started collecting information (Thanks to Vtiale Snowman) and the Internet, among other things, for the information. It turned out that my automatic transmission cable is not positioned correctly, or rather it is positioned correctly, but it is not adjusted correctly. adjustment diagram As can be seen from the diagram, the distance from the boss (stopper) to the cable braid should be 34-35mm. I had 30 and no matter how I tried to adjust it using adjusting nuts, it didn’t get any bigger! then I disconnected it from the injection pump and pulled it all the way, measured the distance, 30mm, again thanks to the Internet, (when replacing the cable, the boss is included in the kit, but you have to crimp it yourself) HOW??? The Internet helped again (the system for adjusting the new cable: install the cable, press the gas pedal all the way, but without pressing it into the mat, measure 34-35 mm as indicated in the diagram, put a mark with a marker, disconnect the cable from the injection pump and compress the boss (stopper) on the cable ) I assumed that the previous owner changed the cable (since it looks quite fresh) and did not properly compress this boss (stopper) with grief, I managed to unclench it and move it as indicated in the diagram. Having collected the Car in its original state, I drove out onto the road. Result: the car’s pickup (Tyaglo) is much better, up the hill I could barely accelerate 80 without any effort, I accelerated to 110, the operation of the automatic transmission became softer, the speeds turned on in time, the kicks disappeared Ps I didn’t take a photo, there was no time for that. P.s. Moreover, as I understand it, this adjustment is relevant for both 4D56 and 4M40

Pajero 2 V24W 4D56T 3.5cm body, trunk, Cooper type rollers 33*12.5*15 Swan Winch 12000lb shock absorbers MONOMAX chassis +2:)

Draiver2000 Active participant
Messages: 748 Registered: March 19, 2011, 21:52 From: Vladivostok - Artem Awards: 1 Karma: 6
Return to top

Re: Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

Ride_Maniac » Jun 20, 2013 12:38 pm
helpful, thanks

MMC Pajero v24 4D56 MMC Pajero v64 6G74 GDI Roads begin where the asphalt ends...

Ride_Maniac Vocal Nightingale
Messages: 3366 Registered: Aug 15, 2011, 6:57 pm From: it just so happened Awards: 1 Karma: 40
Return to top

Re: Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

Draiver2000 » Jun 20, 2013 12:41 pm

Ride_Maniac wrote: useful, thanks

don't hesitate to use
Pajero 2 V24W 4D56T 3.5cm body, trunk, Cooper type rollers 33*12.5*15 Swan Winch 12000lb shock absorbers MONOMAX chassis +2:)

Draiver2000 Active participant
Messages: 748 Registered: March 19, 2011, 21:52 From: Vladivostok - Artem Awards: 1 Karma: 6
Return to top

Re: Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

wf50 » Jul 01, 2013, 04:54 pm
You did a good job, but after adjustment, my automatic transmission still hasn’t stopped kicking and breaks down to a reduced speed when accelerating.
I think it’s on the 2nd, but there’s no fourth at all. I set it to 34-35 mm as in the manual. I’m thinking of trying to adjust it on the machine itself, but I doubt that wf50 will help Active participant Messages: 180 Registered: Apr 28, 2013, 4:24 pm Karma: 0
Return to top

Re: Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

Draiver2000 » 02 Jul 2013, 17:39
If there is no fourth, look at the dacha on the cylinder head, the one that has one contact and is located at an angle. He is responsible for turning on 4 speed. As for breakdowns, I also have them, but it depends on how you press the pedal.

Pajero 2 V24W 4D56T 3.5cm body, trunk, Cooper type rollers 33*12.5*15 Swan Winch 12000lb shock absorbers MONOMAX chassis +2:)

Draiver2000 Active participant
Messages: 748 Registered: March 19, 2011, 21:52 From: Vladivostok - Artem Awards: 1 Karma: 6
Return to top

Re: Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

wf50 » July 03, 2013, 09:47
I’d look at it, but what’s the use of me looking at it.
Where exactly is it located? how to call him? There is nothing useful in the manual, and I can’t find a normal manual. wf50 Active member Messages: 180 Registered: Apr 28, 2013, 4:24 pm Karma: 0
Return to top

Re: Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

Ride_Maniac » 04 Jul 2013, 11:01

wf50 wrote: I would look at it, but what’s the use of me looking at it. Where exactly is it located? how to call him? There is nothing useful in the manual, and I can’t find a normal manual.

Ride_Maniac Vocal Nightingale
Messages: 3366 Registered: Aug 15, 2011, 6:57 pm From: it just so happened Awards: 1 Karma: 40
Return to top

Re: Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

Draiver2000 » 04 Jul 2013, 13:55

Ride_Maniac wrote: wf50 wrote: I'd look at it, but it's no good if I look at it. Where exactly is it located? how to call him? There is nothing useful in the manual, and I can’t find a normal manual.

As I understand it, Slava meant a break in the wire going to the sensor, or any loss of contact - first of all... and in theory (well, that’s what I think) if the wire rings and generally comes to the sensor, then most likely the sensor is faulty, but means for replacement.
There are three sensors on the cylinder head, near the entrance of the radiator pipe to the internal combustion engine. Two vertically, one at an angle, those that are vertical are on the arrow in the interior (two contacts) on the air conditioner and additional. The fan (one contact) and the one that is at an angle to the machine (one contact) is easy to ring, I unscrewed it and rang it with a resistance tester. I'll post a photo at the weekend; I'm on a business trip right now, so I can't. Pajero 2 V24W 4D56T 3.5cm body, trunk, Cooper type rollers 33*12.5*15 Swan Winch 12000lb shock absorbers MONOMAX chassis +2:)

Draiver2000 Active participant
Messages: 748 Registered: March 19, 2011, 21:52 From: Vladivostok - Artem Awards: 1 Karma: 6
Return to top

Re: Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

wf50 » 05 Jul 2013, 11:51
Thanks, I'll try to call.
If there is resistance, then it is working, and if not, then it is not working. Or should I look at ohms? And the sensor that has two contacts, how to ring, as I understand it, is on the temperature needle. wf50 Active member Messages: 180 Registered: Apr 28, 2013, 4:24 pm Karma: 0
Return to top

Re: Automatic transmission cable and its adjustment

Draiver2000 » 07 Jul 2013, 21:58

wf50 wrote: Thank you, I'll try to call. If there is resistance, then it is working, and if not, then it is not working. Or should I look at ohms? And the sensor that has two contacts, how to ring, as I understand it, is on the temperature needle.

Yes, with two contacts per arrow.
Based on the ringing of the sensor on the air conditioner, there is either resistance or not. Pajero 2 V24W 4D56T 3.5cm body, trunk, Cooper type rollers 33*12.5*15 Swan Winch 12000lb shock absorbers MONOMAX chassis +2:)

Draiver2000 Active participant
Messages: 748 Registered: March 19, 2011, 21:52 From: Vladivostok - Artem Awards: 1 Karma: 6
Return to top

Advertising block

Advertising » 01 Jan 0000, 00:00
Advertising Engine of progress
Messages: 100500 Registered: 01 Jan 0001, 00:00 Auto: MMC City: Russia
Return to top

Answer

Posts: 19 • Page 1 of 2 • 1 ,

Return to automatic transmission and transmission

Who's on the forum now?

This forum is currently viewed by: no registered users and guests: 0

Setting up and adjusting the automatic transmission cable

During the operation of the gearbox, it needs adjustments: adjusting the torsion of the automatic transmission, changing a group or one solenoid in the valve body, as well as adapting the automatic transmission after assembling the vehicle’s gearbox.

Then the car owner will be able to drive the car comfortably. He will not be disturbed by pushes and kicks if he changes the oil on time and does not starve the machine from lack of lubricating fluid.

What kind of automatic transmission cable?

The automatic transmission cable regulates gear shifts in the automatic transmission. It is because of its stretching that the car appears thoughtful when switching from third to fourth gear. Sometimes the driver, on the contrary, feels a double jerk.

The automatic transmission cable needs to be tightened once a month for those cars whose car owners love aggressive driving. And it must be replaced twice as often, since the device wears out quickly. Sometimes you have to tighten not only the automatic transmission cable, but also the throttle valve, as well as the idle air valve.

In almost all automatic transmissions of vehicles, the cable has a cover. Then there is a boss in the form of a metal thickening. The device ends with two adjusting nuts.

The automatic transmission cable is made of high-quality metal. Additionally covered with a rubber shell. Drivers may experience problems with it due to the drying out of the shell. Because of this, he is often out of place.

Attention! With the correct setting of the automatic transmission cable, the vehicle will receive smooth operation and gear shifting.

Where is the cable located?

The automatic transmission cable is located under the hood of the vehicle on the transfer case housing. It is attached at three points:

bracket above the throttle lever;
bracket to the left of the lever;
pipe branch.

The automatic transmission cable should not be stretched or tightly taut. And also each of the fasteners to which it is attached must not be cracked or broken. In this case, you need to contact a service center to replace the vehicle cable holder elements.

Symptoms when adjustment is necessary

Adjusting the automatic transmission cable will be necessary in the following cases:

excessive weakening;
thoughtfulness when changing gears from third to fourth speed;
jerks and kicks. Checking for wear of clutches, oil quality and its level in the machine showed a standard result;
sudden starts from a standstill.

Adjustment is necessary if, while eliminating problems with relaxation of the device, on the contrary, symptoms of a tightened cable arise. This is also harmful to the vehicle's automatic transmission.

Attention! For those who like driving with sudden starts, a tight cable tension is allowed. The main thing here is not to overdo it.

And the symptoms themselves can appear, for example, only when changing gears. Therefore, the car owner can ignore the shocks and jerks for a long time. This happens to those who have cars with a French-made Al4 gearbox. Or in Russia this device is called DP0.

Initially, the manufacturer tells car owners that the first generation has an untreated childhood illness in the form of rarely appearing kicks or hesitation when switching. The driver does not pay attention to these symptoms, the cause of which gradually leads to automatic transmission failure.

Other boxes are more advanced and do not have such serious features.

Adjusting the throttle valve control cable

There is a procedure for adjusting the cable on the transmission of Toyota and other cars, which is often carried out by experienced mechanics when the car owner complains of kicks and jerks while accelerating:

automatic transmission adjustment using a throttle valve.

But before you adjust the automatic transmission cable, you need to make sure the following correct parameters. If any of the following signs of proper operation of the machine are not met, then you should not proceed with adjusting the cable.

the oil level must correspond to the values specified in the machine’s operating manual;
proper operation of the power unit, integrity of the cable connections and related units;
the pressure in the car box must correspond to that specified in the operating book;
checking the vehicle while moving and braking.

Now let's talk about how to adjust the cable.

Apply lubricant to it.
Check that the cable moves smoothly.
Unscrew the nuts.
Press down the gas pedal.
Start adjusting the automatic transmission cable. Try to do this halfway down or up the key stroke, so as not to overtighten or loosen.
Stop when the stop comes out one and a half millimeters from the rubber shell, if it was not visible at all. If the automatic transmission cable sticks out strongly, you need to tighten it back.
Fix this stop at a position between 0.9 mm and 1.4 mm from the shell.
Release the pedal.

Attention! It is better to do this procedure with a partner. One person must be behind the wheel and press the gas pedal at the command of the person who regulates the tension of the cable under the hood of the car.

Rigidity is adjusted by decreasing the length of the cable, while loosening, on the contrary, increases it. In addition, the car owner must remember that all settings and adjustments of the cable are carried out only in a long area that is free from vehicles and people.

When setting up the device on an automatic transmission, you must carefully read the instructions for setting up the automatic transmission. Because usually everything is spelled out in detail.

If an experienced mechanic performs the procedure at a service station, then you need to be present during the setup. While one car owner presses the gas pedal lightly, another does it with force. That’s why it’s so important to customize the machine to your liking to make driving a car comfortable and convenient.

Clutch cable adjustment procedure

Using measuring instruments, determine at what distance from each other the clutch release fork and the end of the damper are located. The distance should be no more than 8.6 cm. The permissible error is no more than 0.5 cm in the direction of increasing or decreasing the length;
measure the distance that separates the cable tip from the end of the damper. The distance should not be more or less than 6 cm. As in the previous case, the error should not exceed 0.5 cm in one direction or another;
if the distances do not correspond to normal, you need to adjust the cable using the adjusting nut, rotating it in one direction or another until the desired result is achieved.

Large free play

Small move

At the final stage, the clutch pedal is depressed several times, after which the distances are measured again. If necessary, the cable is adjusted again, after which the locknut is finally tightened.

Checking the solenoid block

Automatic transmission tuning includes checking the solenoid unit. Due to incorrect operation of the electric valves on the control plate, the machine can not only be pushed or kicked, but also go into emergency mode.

To carry out the procedure for checking the serviceability of the electrical valves of the hydraulic plate, you must take the following steps:

Drive onto the overpass.
Drain the operating oil and tighten the bolts on the pan. Then remove it.
Disconnect the filter device.
Remove the hydraulic unit.
Disconnect the contacts of each solenoid valve.
Now you will need to call them.
To determine whether the solenoid is working or not, you need to know the resistance rate. It can be found in the instruction manual. For example, for EV1 modifications at a temperature of 20 plus Celsius, the resistance is 65 Ohms.

And also at a service station, experienced mechanics can connect a computer and use it to check the faulty solenoid. After checking, you need to remove the faulty one and install a new one.

When checking solenoids, you must remember that they are different. Here are some types:

by functional value: TCC and EPC. The first is responsible for blocking the fluid coupling, the second is responsible for distributing oil through the channels;
The Shift solenoid is responsible for downshifting and upshifting;
linear - the simplest and easiest to replace solenoid valves;
VFS is complex to control, but simple in design, like linear ones. Its service life is noticeably limited.

The solenoid valve is replaced as follows:

Unscrew the fastening of the faulty solenoid from the valve body removed from the automatic transmission.
Install the correct one.
Connect it to the connectors.
Assemble and install the hydraulic plate into the machine.

After each assembly and disassembly of the box, experts advise adapting the box. This is done in order to set up the machine for smooth operation and unquestioning obedience to the driver.

How to check the operation of the box

In the following procedure, it is important to prevent the power unit from overheating. Otherwise, you may lose your automatic transmission. Checking the operation of the automatic transmission is as follows:

Start the engine. Warm up the automatic transmission to 70 degrees. This is the operating temperature of the machine.
Drive onto a level area and immobilize the vehicle, preventing it from moving backwards or forwards. Preferably using a handbrake and wheel chocks or stones if there are no chocks available.
Move the selector lever to the “Forward” position.
Press the gas pedal all the way down.
Allow the engine to gain maximum speed, then move the selector lever to the “Neutral” gear shift position.
Move the rocker selector to the “Reverse” position. Repeat all the steps as in the “Drive” position.
Experts recommend spending no more than 5 seconds at each stage of the check so as not to overheat the machine.
If there are sharp sounds or noise, the procedure must be stopped.

Rear derailleur

The gear shifter is an important part of a multi-speed bicycle. Thanks to this component, it becomes possible to move in extreme conditions, which include moving against the wind, climbs, and poor road quality. The transmission unit must cope with all these problems. The quality of the ride and the safety of the cyclist depend on the smooth operation of the speed switch. This skill is very useful, and every bike owner should learn how to adjust the gear shift themselves. Every cyclist can adjust bicycle gear shifters independently. You need to study the theory in detail by reading the instructions, or using the advice of experienced bike owners.

Before adjusting the derailleur, you need to adjust the rear derailleur. The entire adjustment process will be greatly facilitated by placing the bicycle in the correct position (wheels up). This way, all the necessary details will be visible, and getting to them will be much easier.

Reasons for poor gear shifting:

physical defects of switch parts;
contamination of parts. To prevent this from happening, the components of the transmission unit must be periodically cleaned of dirt, dust and old grease;
worn cable with elements of damage. This part requires replacement;
rooster damage.

If you observe damage, deformation and wear of the component parts, they must be replaced as they are practically irreparable.

If all parts are in good condition, begin adjusting the switch. What does the speed switch consist of? The components of the speed switch are as follows:

Gear shift knob located on the steering wheel;
A shifter that is mounted on the steering wheel near the handles. Handles and a cable are attached to the shifter. It is with the participation of the cable that the impulse is transferred from the shifter to the stars;
A cassette that includes different-sized sprockets;
front fixing mount;
rear derailleur, whose main function is to transfer the chain to the necessary sprockets.