Won't start (diesel) [K2]
Doesn’t start (diesel) Or is there no diesel fuel?!
Re: Won't start (diesel) [K2]
#5
10 Dec 2014, 16:09
Re: Won't start (diesel) [K2]
#6
11 Dec 2014, 11:57
Re: Won't start (diesel) [K2]
#7
30 Dec 2014, 11:02
Last year it started even at -25 with one sneeze. Today -15 this morning, it started on the second try. I don't like this story for some reason.
And the windshield heating stopped turning on.
Re: Won't start (diesel) [K2]
#8
30 Dec 2014, 12:47
Re: Won't start (diesel) [K2]
#9
30 Dec 2014, 14:05
A work colleague has the same story. I suffered for several days. I went to the service center over the weekend. Verdict: the tip of the fuel filter heating connector melted. The filter housing also melted. He couldn't explain it more specifically. We ordered spare parts under warranty, but not earlier than January 12th. He has a second car, so he reacted calmly. The car is similar. By the way, the mechanics said that it was possible to run into a fire. So I advise you to download the service.
Re: Won't start (diesel) [K2]
#10
30 Dec 2014, 14:33
Re: Won't start (diesel) [K2]
#11
30 Dec 2014, 15:33
Re: Problem with startup - give advice
#12
10 Jan 2020, 16:19
Re: Problem with startup - give advice
#13
10 Jan 2020, 18:06
Good afternoon. There was a problem with starting the engine at -20C after six unsuccessful starts (the starter was working), an alert appeared on the BC. Start time has expired. I waited more than an hour and tried to start the engine using the Start-Stop button. The BC again displays the same message. Starting time has expired and the engine does not start. As a result, the service department started the car and said they changed the relay (they gave it to me to check that it was working). I drove for a week without any problems and the car started the first time. In the morning, again -20C, the situation was confirmed exactly - the message Starting time has expired - the engine starting cycle is not running. I removed the battery, charged it at home, waited until it warmed up to - 8C, tried to start the engine, same thing - it wouldn’t start. On the BC monitor I noticed the temperature outside shows -23C. I checked all the relays and fuses, all intact. Has anyone encountered this problem? The car was handed over to an OA in another city, so far there is silence. I don’t know what to think, I read a lot of forums, maybe the BC is to blame, or the heating of the fuel filter (didn’t work, there were bubbles in the fuel line after the filter during successful attempts to start the engine) Error C074_88 appeared. Last winter, in cold weather, it started without problems. Before this winter, I charged the battery. The engine starting manual says that after six unsuccessful starts, a restart is possible after 30 minutes. It seems very likely that this ban on launching into BC has not been lifted. I charged the battery as expected and only a day later I tried to start the car when it got warmer outside to -6C. When I tried to start it, the BC again gave me the message - Startup time has expired. I noticed that the BC showed the outside temperature as -23C, but in reality it was -6C. The car is 2 years old, the mileage is 70 thousand. I use it every day, all maintenance is done once every 10 thousand km at the OD, everything is in accordance with the regulations. The last time the car was at the OD, all consumables and brake fluid were replaced. I drove about 1500 km this week.
By start-up cycle I meant: 1. I press the start-stop button 2 The instrument panel lights up, the yellow engine warm-up spiral goes out 3 I press the brake, then press the start-stop button again 4 The starter turns the engine, it starts 5. I move the automatic transmission lever to neutral, release it brake and warm up the engine.
Re: Problem with startup - give advice
#14
10 Jan 2020, 18:28
Do not press the start button separately to warm up the spark plugs. The machine does this automatically if the trigger is cold enough
PS, let me tell you your fortune: since there were already bubbles, most likely the filter housing died and melted at the connector.
My crystal ball also says that the mesh in the tank may be clogged and the pump cannot pump anything other than air from loose connections.
Re: Problem with startup - give advice
#15
10 Jan 2020, 18:52
mirock wrote: Do not press the start button separately to warm up the spark plugs. The machine does this automatically if the trigger is cold enough
PS, let me tell you your fortune: since there were already bubbles, most likely the filter housing died and melted at the connector.
My crystal ball also says that the mesh in the tank may be clogged and the pump cannot pump anything other than air from loose connections.
Guess why))) The message Starting time has expired from the BC is not removed and appears every time you try to start the engine on the information board, which blocks the engine from starting. (I think so) Maybe someone has encountered such a situation.
Re: Problem with startup - give advice
#16
10 Jan 2020, 20:49
Automatic or automatic, but sometimes it’s hard for the battery to turn in the cold (colder than -10) immediately after calcining the spark plugs. Therefore, in cold weather, I start it separately - first the ignition, wait until it goes out, after 30 seconds - brake and “start” again. Starts up instantly. The battery needs that 30 second break to recuperate.
And if you immediately press the brake and start, the starter works a little longer, a couple of seconds.
It is especially useful to pause for older people, batteries older than 2 years.
Re: Won't start (diesel) [K2]
#17
10 Jan 2020, 21:37
I'm reporting. I was lucky that my ex-husband drove the car for service. Because the cat stalled in the middle of the Third Transport Ring. Ford office - roadside assistance, it works exactly like that. The tow truck arrived only 3 hours later, and it was -15 outside.
But the verdict was exactly what was promised here: the connector on the fuel filter housing melted. Everything was repaired, I'm back on wheels!
Re: Won't start (diesel) [K2]
#18
10 Jan 2020, 21:56
Re: Problem with startup - give advice
#19
11 Jan 2020, 02:34
Re: Problem with startup - give advice
#20
11 Jan 2020, 12:26
There will be no “stupor” and no warming up of the spark plugs if you do not turn off the ignition. Try it yourself. Ignition is “on” - the spark plugs are heating up - not off. We wait 20-30 seconds for ignition - press the brake and start - the starter turns immediately without turning on the glow plugs. Blindly following the “Murzilka” is not always optimal.
Ford 2.0 TDCi won't start
I’ll tell you my story, maybe someone can give reasoned advice. So. In 2014, in January, I bought a Ford Grand C-Max 2.0. Diesel, respectively, 2011. From the very beginning it started like a doll in any frost. But after a while he began to mope and entered this winter with exactly the same symptoms: If above zero - From zero to -5 - it starts, but reluctantly (from the 3rd time or when applying the gas) Below -5 - it does not start. The battery turns, but does not “grasp”. At this moment there is no smoke coming out of the exhaust at all. It feels like there is no fuel flowing. As soon as I roll the car into a warm garage (there is one, but rolling a heavy cramp into it is a feat, even if you buy a winch), it starts with half a kick.
I only fill up with Lukoil fuel (when abroad I also try to look at the gas station and not at the price tag). I change the Fuel Filter at every maintenance, the last time - literally before the New Year, for prevention. I keep the battery charged to the maximum, I even bought a charger from a specialist. Glow plugs. To be honest, I haven't checked them. It’s just that the service center told me that checking by price = replacement (which apparently is not entirely true, you can check without unscrewing it, yes/no?), so I regretted the money. In addition, the car is quite new, 4 years old, could it really have already burned out? Yes, the “spiral” light on the dash lights up, I even warm it up a couple of times in cold weather just in case. There are no memory errors left after unsuccessful factory attempts. Yeah, as a last experiment, yesterday I tried the Liqui Moli antigel additive (or whatever it is spelled correctly). I filled it up according to science: at a gas station I filled it up to diesel, then I drove it in a warm garage, stood it for a while, then drove it around, so everything was according to the instructions. But it didn’t help, I left it outside with a specialist overnight, I just tried it (-15), it didn’t start. The battery spins (whatever it spins), but it’s useless.
DPF
It is a mandatory element in all diesel engines that comply with the Euro-5 standard. OFF Ford Mondeo diesel will not start The particulate filter is responsible for removing soot particles, which are carcinogens, from gases. The device collects and burns soot. To ignite soot, a large load on the engine is required (driving speed on highways). Unfortunately, during city driving, conditions for soot burnout do not arise in the engine and, therefore, many filters become clogged, which causes the engine to go into emergency mode.
- transition to emergency mode
- high fuel consumption
- problems with operation, hard to start
Replacing the DPF/FAP filter: a damaged filter can be replaced with a new one. Peugeot 306 diesel Special Auto NN will not start. Replacements for most models are available for sale. Sometimes you can use filters after factory restoration.
- MAZDA 6 2.0 MZR-CD has notorious problems with the soot burning procedure.
- OPEL INSIGNIA 2.0 CDTI has a very sensitive filter to frequent city driving.
Ford Kuga 2.0 TDCi 5 doors. crossover, 136 hp, 6 manual transmission, 2008 – 2013. - The engine will not start
The engine does not start - reasons, troubleshooting
| fuel supply problems | Check the fuel system |
| problems with mechanics (that is, with the engine itself) | Carry out engine diagnostics |
| Common reasons why a car engine does not start The reasons can be both general and specific. It is hardly possible to consider all the options in one article, so we will talk about the most common problems. First place, perhaps, can safely be given to problems with the battery. Very often the engine does not start as a result of the battery being discharged. It is not necessary that the charge be completely absent. In many cars, the starter refuses to turn if the battery produces less than 10 volts. Taking into account this information, it becomes clear that you should not forget to recharge the battery on time. However, complete failure or problems with starting the engine are not always associated with a low battery charge level. Quite often, oxidized or poorly secured terminals are to blame. From time to time you need to clean them with sandpaper to remove the deposit of oxide film, which is a poor conductor of electricity. The same applies to the contacts on the battery itself. After cleaning, it is recommended to lubricate the terminals with machine oil or lithol so that they do not oxidize. Better yet, replace the copper terminals and install brass ones. In second place in terms of frequency is a very simple and harmless reason - lack of fuel. There are two options: it may not be in the tank, or it may not enter the engine. The driver's actions in this case are extremely simple. First, check the tank (the sensor may fail or show incorrect values). Secondly, check the fuel line. Perhaps there was a leak somewhere and it filled with air. The complexity and cost of repairs depends on the nature of the damage. Sometimes it is enough to simply replace the hose under the hood. Fuel may not enter the combustion chamber due to a clogged carburetor or injectors on injection engines. In addition, it happens that the fuel pump fails. The reasons for this can be different, but the most common one is overheating of the fuel pump. Of course, we are talking about those cars in which the pump is installed under the hood (usually carburetor cars). It overheats especially often in the summer heat. Another option, although very rare, is that gasoline has lost its properties (evaporated, diluted with condensate, etc.). This happens if the car has been sitting for more than a year. In this case, it is enough to add fresh fuel or drain the remaining fuel, and then refuel with suitable fuel. Problems in the ignition system No spark at the spark plugs or wet spark plugs. This is also a very common reason why the engine will not start. You can check the spark plugs yourself. To do this, you need to have a spark plug wrench in the trunk. Checking for a spark is also not difficult. To do this, you need to unscrew the spark plug, put a contact wire on it and try to turn the ignition key at the moment when the spark plug itself is near the metal. A good spark should be fat and bright. If the spark is weak or absent at all, you should take a closer look at the spark plug contacts. Perhaps they are covered with soot. In this case, they must be cleaned with sandpaper or a wire brush. If this does not help, then you should try replacing the spark plug. It happens that the spark plug is fine, but there is still no spark. Here you need to check the armored wires and even the ignition coil. By the way, the capacitor on the ignition coil may fail. It is advisable to have a spare one with you (it costs pennies). There is no spark on the center wire. You can check this way: disconnect the central wire from the distributor cover and unscrew the tip. After this, you need to turn the key and keep the end of the wire near the metal. There must be a good spark. Problem with the ignition switch. It happens that some terminal falls off in the lock itself. Especially on older cars. Naturally, you need to know where to put it again. In addition, fuses may blow. Therefore, it is always worth having a set of spare ones in your car. It is inexpensive, does not take up space, and a blown fuse can not only be the reason why, for example, turns do not work. It’s worse when the internal combustion engine does not start for this reason. Other possible faults Problems with the starter solenoid (traction) relay. The most common problem here is burnt nickels (can only be seen when the device is disassembled). In addition, contacts may become unsoldered from them. In this case, when you turn the ignition key, only a quiet click of the starter relay will be heard, and the retractor will be silent. If it is working, it will make a clear metallic click. It is unlikely that it will be possible to repair it on the road. Although the repair is inexpensive and relatively simple. |
Diesel starts hard when cold or hot
Anyone guys have had this problem? | Topic author: Nikolas
Santa Fe 2009 diesel 2.2..
it became difficult to start, i.e. it is difficult to start the internal combustion engine on a cold morning in general from 3 times, and so you need to turn it for 3 seconds, the fuel is clean, the injectors were changed 7 because ago there are suspicions 1. spark plugs? 2 pressure sensor 3 crankshaft position sensor can.. RAIL PRESSURE NORMAL
Sergey (Dougal) this happened in 2 cases not listed, with low compression the rings were changed, and 2 constantly if the diesel fuel is bad it takes a long time to start for almost a minute, when refueling in my case it doesn’t start or something like that noticeably faster from about 2 turns, spark plugs Of course it’s good, but honestly I haven’t even looked at 4 years old. Santa diesel 2l
Sergey (Dougal) well, and the sensor, if of course the same ramp device is on the Nyushka, check for the return, swap for a while with someone else
Vyacheslav (Carsten) today - 4 wouldn’t start at all, if only there were rings he would have eaten oil, bad traction, etc.
Vyacheslav (Carsten) refuel at Gazprom
Sergey (Dougal) well then, if you honestly can look for an intelligent diesel driver
Vyacheslav (Carsten) put the battery on charge, tomorrow we’ll hook up the scanner, we’ll twist it and see what he says
Vyacheslav (Carsten) cylinder pressure?
Vyacheslav (Carsten) I didn’t measure the compression in the cylinders, tomorrow I’ll see what pressure the starter raises in the ramp
Vyacheslav (Carsten) if the valve. then there should be a decrease in pressure in the cylinders, vibration of the Troil internal combustion engine, I don’t have this, and the seats would simply burn out in the end
Vyacheslav (Carsten) I think it’s easier to start when hot, but when the temperature drops, it doesn’t start at all…. The sensors don’t care about the external temperature; it either works or it doesn’t; the temperature can be affected by the spark plugs, so I’ll look at everything tomorrow
what will the scanner say
Vyacheslav (Carsten) based on the pressure in the ramp during startup, then I’ll go to the spark plugs
Vyacheslav (Carsten) took off the spark plugs today, 2 the stamp was unscrewed by hand, unscrewed 3, the spark plug doesn’t work, I washed it along the way, I washed the USR tomorrow I’ll install new spark plugs, we’ll see, I wanted to open the small rear seat, I opened the big one and didn’t understand how, so see the condition of the pumps the main pump, as I understand it, is under the large (left) seat
Vyacheslav (Carsten) installed the spark plugs, it didn’t help, I discovered the following scanner shows that the pressure drops in the ramp when you turn off the engine, when you turn the starter from the ramp, that the return flow is coming from the pump, it relieves the pressure, there are suspicions that the ramp pressure regulator has gone down the entire ramp for diagnostics tomorrow
Sergey (Dougal) what did the ramp diagnostics show?
Vyacheslav (Carsten) the guys didn’t even bother to pressurize, at the initial stage the return is poisoning, i.e. the regulator sensor is the one on the right, it’s covered now I’m looking for this sensor
Sergey (Dougal) I talked about him and immediately exchange with someone on the 1st morning
Vyacheslav (Carsten) found out today that it needs to be pulled with a torque wrench, at what point can anyone tell me? and also in the ramp where the sensor returns, traces were found from the compression of the sensor to the ramp, a round bed and the specialists say that the ramp needs to be replaced? there should be a mechanical trace left there by the pressure sensor, why blame the ramp, I don’t understand?
Sergey (Dougal) I just pulled with my hand without foolishness, but if you screw it up with all the foolishness, it’s possible that there is a diesel leak or an air leak, you first try someone who has a working thread for the day, ask me for 2 minutes of business, if it works, then just buy a new sensor or Used worker, in St. Petersburg there was a new one for about 7 thousand when I was looking, I took it at a disassembly for 1.5 and has been driving for 2 years.
Sergey (Dougal) if I’m not mistaken, this one has become more expensive, so before buying it’s better to check by replacing it with a working one for a day https://plentycar.ru/autopart/304920
Tags: Diesel starts poorly when cold or hot
Why is diesel difficult to start when cold/oil. candles, etc. The composition “Think Tank” belongs to the performer…
Diesel does not start well when cold | Topic author: Alexander
Renault Scenic 1999 1.9D, after the night it starts very poorly and Alexey, after starting it does not smoke, when warmed up, there are no bubbles in the fuel system, it does not take oil, the starter turns normally. After starting it tries to stall but after 5 seconds. works fine. What could be the reason???
Zoya maybe glow plugs?
Valentina So in the question and answer, change the glow plugs. If there was a problem with compression, it wouldn't even start when hot.
Sergey Look at the glow plug
Vitaly you need to use glow plugs
Sasha, if the spark plugs are working, then it’s worth checking the compression in the engine. For diesel there is a pressure gauge. It’s also worth checking email. chain of candles
Ekaterina Maybe better quality fuel needs to be poured!!!
Lily They write correctly, check the candles and also force Valeria to turn on. candles, so they warm up better, but with the standard switch on. time is short, they are off. automatically.
Svetlana candles can be heated 2 times, if they are in order - the pump and nozzles are covered
Ksenia coolant temperature sensor is acting up
Raisa I advise you to install WEBASTO!!!! Preheater!! !
I can offer it at a good price, new! ! you can see it at the link
I say right away it is 24 volts!!!
uvlechenie.info
Features of diesel engine operation
In gasoline units, a mixture of air and fuel is formed, which is injected into the cylinders using an injector. Once in the combustion chamber, the mixture is ignited by a spark plug and a working stroke occurs. Next – release, compression, then the cycle repeats. Unlike gasoline engines, in a diesel engine the mixture is ignited by high pressure. It will enter the combustion chamber using spray nozzles. In addition, the glow plug is switched on, which heats the fuel to the required temperatures.
But if they fail, the diesel unit is unable to start normally. The glow plug significantly simplifies the process of igniting the fuel and, accordingly, starting the engine. If the diesel engine does not, then the control relay is broken and the spark plug does not heat up the diesel fuel. The action of this element does not stop until the coolant temperature reaches operating values. The glow plug often saved car owners when starting the engine in winter.
We also note that, in addition to the ignition method, such engines differ in the design of the fuel system. And if gasoline ones have a simple submersible pump, here there are two of them: one of low pressure and the other of high pressure. Well, let's look at why diesel is not “hot”.
Two-mass flywheel
Installed (in the vast majority) on diesel engines. Its task is to dampen vibration in the crank-piston system. The dual-mass flywheel not only improves driving comfort, but above all reduces the load on the gearbox and also allows for a lower idling speed (reduced CO2 emissions). In some cars, two-mass wheels can withstand a quarter of a million kilometers, and in others up to 100 thousand kilometers. The shelf life is reduced by city driving (low speeds, frequent starts).
Symptoms of a diesel engine malfunction:
- jerking when idling
- knocking when turning off the engine and creaking when decreasing gears.
Strength Wheel Replacement: The used flywheel should be replaced with a new one. Usually, by the way, a new clutch is also installed.
- FORD MONDEO III 2.0 TDCI is an extremely fragile engine.
- MAZDA 6 2.0 CD lags behind other Japanese cars in terms of wheel strength.
- PEUGEOT 406 1.6 HDI is a heavy car with a weak two-piece flywheel.
Compression
Initially, its level is two times higher than that of gasoline units. The mixture ignites under strong compression. And a drop in compression does not have the best effect on starting the engine. Since any compression process is accompanied by the release of thermal energy, the mixture does not heat up enough and is not able to ignite. If it is a car with high mileage, compression drops when the cylinder walls wear out and the rings burn out. Recall that each piston has three rings. Two are compression, one is oil scraper. This requires disassembly and repair of the engine. It happens that compression drops in only one of the cylinders. In this case, the diesel engine starts and stalls or troits. This means that one of the cylinders is not working or ignition occurs irregularly.
Diesel Injectors
Common rail injection technology has changed the face of diesel engines. Very precise, electronically controlled injectors make it possible to combine performance with relatively good exhaust gas purity. The manufacturing precision of nozzles must be enormous, at a level below one thousandth of a millimeter. Page 1 of 2 - won't start in cold weather - posted in Gasoline engines: hello. Because it was no longer installed on the second restylings, and it was installed only in the restyling Ford Focus 2 ST. During operation on fuel containing biocomponents and under the influence of high temperatures, the injectors wear out. Peugeot 306 diesel does not start First, the control valve depressurizes, and over time, the injector tip becomes calibrated.
How long it takes for everything to lead to an accident largely depends on the type of engine and the type of high-pressure equipment. Practice shows that, of course, the least durable injectors come from Delphi. There are cases that their breakdowns occur after 120 thousand kilometers (for example, Renault), while the most resistant (Denso, Bosch) are often able to withstand even a mileage of more than 400 thousand kilometers (for example, Opel Vectra).
In some engines, the injectors bake themselves, and sometimes break off when removed. Then their dismantling by a specialist costs much more; here it is necessary to remove the cylinder head.
- diesel won't start or starts hard
- black smoke from the exhaust pipe
- uneven operation of the power unit
- increased fuel consumption.
Repair of CR injectors: control valves, burnt coils, and used injection tips must be replaced (or repaired). Regeneration requires the use of an appropriate measuring device, and specialized services deal with this. New piezoelectric injectors have replaceable injection tips, but if serious failures occur, they usually cannot be repaired (only replaced with new ones).
Malfunctions of diesel models:
- Dacia Logan 1.5 dCi has Delphi injectors that are extremely sensitive to fuel purity.
- Ford Mondeo III 2.0 TDCi has a common rail pump that destroys the injectors.
- The Ford Focus 1.8 TDCi has Delphi equipment with a very limited service life.
- Jaguar X-Type 2.0 D engine (Ford) is equipped with an unreliable high-pressure pump.
The turbocharger provides the diesel engine with good performance, and draws its drive from the energy of the exhaust gases. And it is operation in the presence of very hot exhaust gases that causes most of the problems associated with turbocharger durability. Alexander Ford Mondeo diesel 2. Turbochargers are very sensitive to the quality of engine oil. A turbine rotor rotating even several hundred thousand times per minute can get stuck if the oil “does not maintain” the parameters.
The compressor wheel is so delicate that it can be damaged by sand penetrating the air filter. Sudden shutdown of the engine without cooling after a long drive causes, in turn, charring of the oil, coke formation and sticking of the turbocharger bearings. In turn, turbochargers with variable geometry really do not like slow driving, which causes the geometry system to be contaminated with carbon deposits.
- presence of oil in the intake system and exhaust gases
- turbocharger whistle
- engine switching to emergency mode
- increased engine oil consumption.
Turbocharger repair: It is technically possible to regenerate each type of turbocharger. Non-variable geometry turbochargers are easier and cheaper to repair, while variable geometry turbochargers are slightly more expensive to repair. The 2.0 diesel engine starts poorly or does not start at all. Ford Focus 3 does not start, reasons Additional costs may arise if the “turbo” is electrically controlled.
Malfunctions of diesel models:
- The BMW 320D E90 has an electrically controlled turbocharger that is not very durable.
- Ford C-Max 1.6 TDCi – there is a thin turbocharger.
- Peugeot 206 1.6 HDI - has problems with turbine lubrication (faulty oil line).
- Renault Scenic II 1.9 dCi turbocharger is subject to rapid wear due to defective lubricants.
- The Renault Espace IV 2.2 dCi has the same variable turbocharger as cars with 1.9 dCi engines.
Mondeo mk2 1.8 does not start/stalls etc. SOLVED
SOLVED Replacement of DTOZH issue price 400 rubles and the auto repairman doused with hot antifreeze, the car starts and stalls,…
Cold start of Ford Mondeo at -20. Cold start my Ford Mondeo 1.8 td. -20 degrees of celsius
The glow plugs work, the battery is 90 Ah, new. Oil 5w30 Mannol. Compression in cylinders 1- 2
-3-4 30-30-33-30
Glow plugs
Why won't the diesel start? The reasons may be hidden in the glow plugs. It is very simple to determine this breakdown - the car starts well only with a warm engine. “When cold,” the starter turns, but the engine does not start due to the unheated combustion chamber. Usually happens in winter.
This element is controlled using a relay. Sometimes a breakdown of this element causes problems with starting the engine. How can I check this? When starting the car, you should hear characteristic clicks from the spark plug relay. If they are not there, the element is burnt out and needs to be replaced. The spark plugs themselves are in perfect working condition.
High pressure pump
In a common rail system, diesel fuel is supplied from a tank through a small electric pump. Several types of pumps are used, depending on the brand of injection system and its generation. 2 Z12XE does not start, how does the signal behave? It contains not only transport sections, but also valves responsible for regulating pressure. Each of these elements is subject to wear and tear. In addition, problems with diesel fuel leakage may appear (typical, for example, in Mercedes). But these pumps have repair parts available. Repairs are carried out by specialized workshops.
- the need for prolonged rotation of the starter
- problems with power development.
Pump Repair: New rollers, transport sections, valves and sensors are available for most types of high pressure pumps. By the way, new seals are also used. Repairing the pump restores its original parameters. Black smoke in Ford Mondeo - 2 answers An exception is the injection pump equipment of the Mondeo III 2.0 TDCi, in which the high-pressure pump has an unreliable design and repairs do not last for a very long time.
Models with a faulty diesel engine:
- FORD MONDEO III 2.0 TDCI has a defectively made pump in which the shaft is destroyed.
- MERCEDES C 220 CDI (W202) often has problems with fuel leakage from the high pressure pump.
- NISSAN X-TRAIL II 2.0 DCI has serious problems with the pump shaft.
- RENAULT LAGUNA III 2.0 DCI same engine as Nissan, same shaft problems.
Filters
For what other reasons does a diesel engine not start? Of course, these are filters. It is necessary to check their condition.
There are two levels of purification in the fuel system of a diesel engine - coarse and fine.
The latter needs to be given special attention. The paper cavity of the filter, through which fuel passes to the nozzles, is capable of trapping particles up to 10 microns in size. The resource of this element is 8-10 thousand kilometers. If you do not follow these regulations, the filter will simply become clogged. As a result, fuel will not flow into the combustion chamber, although the pump produces the required pressure. This can be determined by the nature of the vehicle's movement. If there are dips in dynamics, this means that fuel is supplied with a delay. And it is the filter clogged with dirt that delays it. It is worth mentioning the air elements.
They are stored in a plastic case; you can replace them yourself by sliding the mounting brackets and removing the cover. The photo above shows what a dirty air filter looks like. Because of this, the diesel engine will not start. The oxygen supply stops or is reduced to a minimum level. The engine does not have enough air - it choke on fuel.
Body flaws of Ford Kuga
The car's paintwork is of fairly high quality and, with a careful owner, can retain its original appearance for 7-8 years. The only problem is that paint is bubbling on the edges of the doors. Chrome-plated body parts do not tolerate the reagents that are found in large quantities on our roads. The result is clouding of the chrome and its peeling.
Ford Kuga body elements have good corrosion resistance, but some individual parts require special attention. Thus, similar sores of the Ford Kuga are expressed in the appearance of rust in the hidden cavities of the bottom and on welds over time.
Pump
There are two mechanisms in the system. These are fuel injection pump and high pressure fuel pump. Often the first element fails, since its structure is more complex than that of the second. The pump cannot produce the required pressure in the fuel system, which is why the diesel engine does not start or starts with difficulty. The movement is accompanied by “sneezing” (as if the car does not have enough fuel). It is worth noting that a belt is connected to the injection pump. It may tear or fly off. First of all, we check the belt drive. Check the fuel system fuses (which go to the pump). One of them may burn out. This often happens during a short circuit. Experienced motorists are advised to always carry a set of spare fuses in the glove compartment.
Causes of problems starting Ford Transit
“Diagnosis” of Transit can be tentatively made based on characteristic “symptoms”.
When starting the starter, the power unit does not turn over
The reason often lies:
- Battery contacts (loose or rusted).
- In the battery (defective or discharged). Normally, the battery produces at least 13-14 watts. At lower values, charging is required.
- The starter wiring is open, loose or faulty.
- In the traction relay or starter switch (malfunction).
- In the starter (malfunction).
- In the motor ground (corroded or damaged). It is necessary to check the functionality of the grounding system.
- In the transmission lever (not in the P/N position) or in the starter blocker (broken).
When the starter is turned on, the motor turns, but slowly
The problem occurs due to:
- Low battery charge.
- Loose battery contacts or due to corrosion process in them.
- Damage to the battery grounding to the body.
- Disconnecting the engine grounding belt.
- Loose starter/traction relay wiring contacts.
- Internal damage to the starter.
- The motor does not turn over, although the starter turns quickly. These “symptoms” indicate:
- The starter is faulty.
- To loosen the starter bolt connection.
The motor turns but does not start
Causes:
- Lack of fuel in the tank.
- The battery is low.
- The battery contacts are loose or rusty.
- Airiness of fuel
- Waxing fuel in cold weather.
- Fuel shut-off valve malfunction.
- Weak compression in diesel cylinders.
- Malfunctions in the fuel system or preheating.
- Serious damage. For example, damage to the camshaft drive.
- After starting, the engine immediately stalls. The situation says:
- About preheating problems or damage to the fuel system.
- About air in fuel or the formation of paraffin in it.
Difficulty starting a cold engine
Happens due to:
- Battery low.
- Loose battery contacts or rust formation on them.
- Airiness of fuel.
- Clogged air filter element.
- Waxing fuel (in cold weather). Liquid paraffins in diesel fuel thicken at low temperatures, which can lead to obstruction of the fuel filter. As a result, the fuel supply stops.
- Malfunctions in preheating.
- Low compression in the cylinders of the power unit.
- Malfunctions in the fuel system.
- Difficulty starting a warm engine occurs due to:
- Battery discharge.
- The battery contacts are loose (or rusted).
- Clogged air filter element.
- Airiness of fuel.
