The generator does not charge: possible reasons and solutions. Why doesn't the alternator charge the car battery? VAZ 2104 injector lost charging reasons

Terminal oxidation

The problem may arise against the background of fully functional operation of the generator with the starter and normal functioning of the electronics. Then the reason lies in the oxidation of the terminals. In this case, they become covered with a dense white coating. Because of this deposit, current cannot flow normally into the battery. As a result, the battery does not take full energy to accumulate inside.

Short trip duration

Car enthusiasts know that driving short distances in winter quickly drains the battery. If your trip, for example, to your place of work lasts about ten minutes, then the battery in such a short time is not able to replenish the energy costs that went into starting the engine.

If you drive short distances in winter, then the solution is as follows. You need to drive a car at least 2 times a week for at least half an hour a day. This is what will prevent premature battery discharge. If this is excluded, you will have to put the battery on a stationary charger. Afterwards, the battery will not discharge for a long time, even if you drive a little.

Generator failure

When the engine starts, 2 indicator lights light up on all cars. One indicator indicates the condition of the battery, the other indicates the oil level in the engine. After starting, the lights usually go out. If the battery indicator does not go out, it means that no electric current is supplied to the battery from the car generator. There are several reasons for this failure. Let's look briefly at each of them.

There is no contact at the generator terminals. This is one of the most common malfunctions and you can check it yourself. You need to inspect all the contacts that go to the car’s generator and battery. They should be removed, checked for breaks in the wiring and cleaned. If the problem does not disappear, look further.

Generator brushes have the ability to exhaust their resource. If they wear out, the supply of electricity to the battery stops. The task here is obvious - replace the brushes. To do this, you need to remove the generator and inspect the grid assembly. If their length is short and very worn, then they will not charge. Or it will disappear periodically. Not every car enthusiast can replace brushes; this is a difficult task.

Another reason that the car battery is not charging is a break in the stator winding . If in previous cases the problem could be resolved on your own, here the situation is different. A malfunction in the stator shaft can only be repaired by a car service center.

Methods for detecting damage

The battery does not charge from the charger

It happens that the battery does not take a charge. Most often, the problem is a completely discharged battery. It is not able to work when charging using low currents. This happens if the battery has been idle for a long time. You can solve the problem by traveling a long distance (when the battery charges on its own from the generator) or using a home charger.

If the charger is faulty, then it is logical that the battery does not show signs of life. Then it is better to change the “charger” and try to charge the battery again. If they fail a second time, it means the battery is also faulty. For example, there was a case when a completely discharged battery was initially charged well from a stationary charger. Then after 2 hours it stopped and the process went in the opposite direction. Those. When charging was connected, the battery began to discharge. As a result, replacing the battery with a new one, the verdict is that the plates inside the case are shorted out .

Probably every car owner has encountered power supply problems. Even on foreign cars, not to mention domestic cars, it happens that the generator does not charge the battery. This is a serious problem. Someday, at the most crucial moment, the car simply won’t start because the battery has not been charged properly. But often we need a car right now.

Diagram of the battery charging circuit on the VAZ-2107

Secondly, check the drive belt: if there are any breaks in it, and if it is tensioned correctly. If you have to adjust the tension of the drive belt, you should take into account an important nuance: you should not allow it to be over-tensioned. This can affect the bearings (they can deteriorate much faster than their service life is prescribed), and the battery will not be recharged.

Thirdly, pay attention to the lamp for monitoring the battery charge level. If it burns at half intensity, it means that the battery is not charging well, and the wiring is to blame. That is, the fault must be looked for in the conductive connections running from the battery to the car body. The cause of the breakdown may be oxidation of the contacts. To check this, you should:

• unscrew the nut;
• clean the contact terminal;
• clean the body surface;
• install the wire in its original place.

The fourth step in troubleshooting may be to check the voltage regulator. Its function is to stabilize the voltage output from the generator. If its direct functions are violated, the battery stops charging normally. Unfortunately, this part cannot be repaired; it is simply replaced with a new one.

If the voltage regulator is working properly, then you need to look for the cause of the malfunction in another place - in the brush assembly. The battery will not be charged from the generator if the wires connecting the contacts to these brushes are broken. Although the reason may lie either in clogging of the brushes themselves, or in their excessive wear.

If the brush assembly is in full working order, but the battery is not charging, then there is only one way out: completely disassemble the car generator. After dismantling and disassembling it, you will have to diagnose it using a tester and megger, this will help identify the possible cause of the generator malfunction.

What voltage should I set when charging the battery?

Voltage is a potential difference, and the current will flow in the direction where this value is smaller. Therefore, the charger voltage is always selected higher than the charging level of the car battery. The greater the voltage difference, the faster and more fully the car battery will gain capacity after charging.

During charging at a constant voltage, the limit of the parameter set on the charger is lower than the characteristic at which the release of gases from the battery being serviced begins. What potential difference is needed to charge a car battery? The maximum voltage used when charging the battery is 16.5 V. Which parameter should be depends on the type of battery. The time and completeness of battery charging depends on the voltage. The ratio of charge voltage and capacity recovery for a 12 V battery in 24 hours is as follows:

• With a voltage of 14.4 V you can charge the battery by 75-80%;
• Using a voltage of 15 V, the charge level is 85 - 90%;
• With a voltage of 16 V, the battery is charged by 95 - 97%;
• With a maximum voltage of 16.3 -16.5 V, the batteries are fully charged.

When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 - 14.5, the charging end signal lights up on the charger.

It has been established that it is this voltage of the car battery that does not create gas emissions after and during charging. Therefore, during actual vehicle operation, the generator, through a voltage regulator, limits the maximum voltage level to this value. In summer this figure is close to 100% capacity, in winter it corresponds to 13.9-14.3 V, with the engine running, which corresponds to 70-75% capacity.

Causes of generator malfunction on the VAZ-2107 (injector)

Experts suggest that on a VAZ-2107 with an injector, the standard generator is 5142.3771 (eight). It has one very important feature: it produces more current - not 55A per hour, like other generators, but about 80-90 A. This is due to the properties of the injector, which requires more electricity (but also has a higher power density).

Experts advise checking the generator for malfunctions in the following order:

• inspect the diodes that supply electricity to the excitation winding of the generator (if they are burned out, they should be replaced with new ones);
• use a tester to measure the voltage level in the current-carrying circuit (if its value is less than 12 V, then there may be a short circuit, which means the wiring is overheating).

Greetings to all motorists! Unfortunately, a modern car is not a trouble-free thing, and periodically throws up surprises. One of them is that the battery is not charging. Sometimes this problem is easily solved, but sometimes the help of specialists is required. But before treating the consequences, you need to find the cause. So let's look at them.

Let's sum it up

In modern cars, wiring problems are quite common. This is a problem that can actually cause significant trouble. You need to be aware that you should not go on a long journey in a car with electrical problems. Also, you should not continue to operate the machine when such problems have been discovered. And if in one car we are talking about a simple feature of the generator, then in another case it will be important to take into account all the technical aspects of the electrical wiring, each consumer and other factors. Only specialists can deal with these problems.

The cost of repairing the electrical network at a good service station will depend on the causes of the breakdown. Sometimes it is enough for specialists to replace a failed relay to correct the situation. Otherwise, it is necessary to repair the generator, change or remove certain electrical consumers from the system. Therefore, the final costs depend on the problems identified during diagnosis. It is important to remember that any problems should be corrected quickly enough, otherwise problems with the vital organs of your car may occur. Have you ever encountered such problems?

Reasons why the battery stops charging

There are several reasons why the battery is not charging:

• stretching or breakage of the generator belt;
• oxidation of battery terminals;
• oxidation or breakage of generator wires;
• problems with the generator.

Let's take a closer look at how to diagnose and, if possible, eliminate these causes. Although, sometimes the problem may be in the battery itself. Therefore, when the charge lamp on the dashboard is on, and a visual inspection did not help to find the fault, you can use the method of elimination.

To do this, you will need to find a working battery and replace it with yours. In this case, the size of the batteries does not matter. If the charge goes on, then the problem is in the battery, if not, most likely there is a problem with the generator.

The battery may stop charging for various reasons. But most often this is sulfation of the plates, which occurs after deep discharges, or from old age. By the way, in advanced cases, electrolyte replacement may be required. In general, to combat sulfation there are several methods based on cyclic charging and discharging of the battery using a charger.

Often the reason for the lack of charge is oxidation of the terminals. This is very easy to determine. You need to open the hood and look at the current output contacts. If they are covered with a strong mushy coating, it means that the terminals have oxidized.

This usually happens when cracks appear on the battery case in the area of ​​the positive and negative terminals. Electrolyte vapors come out of them, come into contact with lead and oxidize, forming an unpleasant coating.

The issue is resolved in several stages:

• the terminals are thoroughly cleaned;
• the cause of oxidation is determined and eliminated;
• The terminals are dressed and a special anti-oxidation compound is applied to them.

Most often, oxidation problems occur in inexpensive batteries, as well as in cases where the battery is often removed from the vehicle. Simply when removing the terminals from the battery terminals, they can be loosened.

When oxide appears, one more thing needs to be taken into account - the electrolyte level in the banks could have dropped below the level. Therefore, you should check it and, if necessary, raise it. At the same time, remember that you need to add distilled water to the battery.

If there is a problem with the belt, charging from the generator will not occur. Therefore, during a visual inspection, it is advisable to carefully examine it. Even if the belt is intact, it does not mean that it is in order.

Typical problems:

• belt break;
• loosening the tension;
• microcracks;
• pollution.

If the belt breaks, everything is clear - it needs to be changed. But, as stated above, he could simply stretch out. Therefore, we check its tension, and at the same time its cleanliness. If it is wet or covered in oil, when the pulleys rotate, the belt may slip. As a result, the light on the dashboard is on, and the generator does not work.

Signs of a faulty generator

If it turns out that the generator is the culprit for the lack of charge, you need to urgently find a specific reason. Otherwise, the motor will simply stop functioning, because it will not have enough electricity. Even in cold weather, despite the drop in battery capacity, the fail-safe generator device maintains a charge level of more than sixty percent.
And here are the indicators of the faulty gene:

• the battery discharges quickly in the morning;
• the light of the lanterns dims as we move;
• The wipers work with difficulty.

These are just the first signs of a generator malfunction.

Problems in the on-board circuit

Along the way, you need to check the integrity of all wiring. Sometimes problems can lie precisely in the flight chain. We start from the generator:

• all connections must be well tightened;
• There should be no oxide and especially soot.

You should immediately remove the brushes from the generator. Their development is another common problem. Not allowed:

• different output, i.e. when one is longer than the other;
• The brush size is less than 5-7 mm.

In addition, you need to check the weight on the body. Poor contact in this place is another reason why the battery charge lamp may light up.

Generator malfunction

A car generator can throw up surprises from time to time. Unfortunately, brush wear is not the only reason why the charge check light may be on.

Possible malfunctions:

• damage to the regulator relay;
• problems with the diode bridge;
• broken stator winding.

Determining that something is wrong with a generator is quite simple. For this you will need a multimeter. In this case, you can immediately determine how charged the battery is. If the readings on a switched off engine are 12.6-12.7V, this indicates a full charge. 12.2-12.4 – charging about 50%. Less than 11.7 – the battery is completely discharged.

Ways to check the generator:

• when the engine is started, the voltage at the battery contacts should be about 14.7V. If it is very different, there is a problem with the generator;
• If you remove the terminal from the battery while the engine is running, it should continue to work. Otherwise, there is a malfunction with the generator;
• When the car is running, there is a clearly noticeable lack of energy.

To accurately diagnose and cure generator malfunctions, you need to have at least minimal knowledge of electrical engineering. If they are not there, it makes sense for you to seek advice from a specialist - you will definitely save time.

So, the problem of lack of charging can be either the most trivial, which can be easily fixed with your own hands, or more serious. To eliminate malfunctions arising from improper operation, you need to follow two rules.

Firstly, periodically charge the battery, and secondly, monitor its external condition. And don’t forget to carry a spare alternator belt and brushes with you.

That's all, I hope the article was useful.

If the generator stops charging, there is nothing good about it. It is necessary to immediately begin searching for the cause of such a malfunction. Otherwise, all your electrical equipment will be without power, and the battery will soon run out completely.

If the generator works well, then the battery will not need additional charging with special devices for many months, sometimes even years. The battery will consistently retain at least 60% charge. Thus, the batteries are constantly replenishing their charge reserve through the operation of the generator.

Control of other elements of the charging system

If visual inspection does not produce any results, then you need to use a multimeter and measure the battery voltage in several states. Checking the terminals with the motor turned off and the contacts folded back should give a result in the range of 12.5-12.7 V. This is the state of a normally charged battery.

After this, control is carried out with the engine running. data should be in the range of 13.5-14 V. At lower values, we raise the speed and identify the dynamics of voltage changes. A decreasing value indicates problems with diodes in the regulator relay or brushes. The latter should be checked for abrasion or broken circuit.

The detected inoperability of the regulator relay can be eliminated by completely replacing it or by independently re-soldering the diodes in the bridge. For such work you will need a powerful soldering iron and high-temperature solder. It is worth selecting diodes that are as close as possible in terms of technical parameters so that they do not overheat during operation, since in this case the current will flow above the rated one.

What is on the VAZ 2110

For VAZ 2110 cars, the installation of two types of generators is provided, depending on the installed engine.

1. For carburetor models, a generator with number 9402.3701 is installed.
2. If the engine is injection, then the catalog number of the generator used will be 3202-3771. It has a serpentine belt.

Regardless of the type of installed engine and generator, respectively, problems with the devices are the same, therefore the inspection and repair procedure is identical in both cases.

Malfunctions

There are two main reasons why an alternator stops charging properly.

What charge does the generator produce?

Many people are interested in the question of how much a generator should produce for normal operation.

Here the parameters directly depend on the current state of the car.

• If the engine is cold and just turns on, then the voltage will normally be 14.1-14.4 Volts;
• If you check the voltage after long trips in traffic jams, then the generator will produce less, about 13.9-14.1V.

Causes of battery charging failure

The main parameter in the battery charging process is the charge current. Many parameters depend on its value.

Capacity replenishment speed

There is an opinion that for normal battery charging, the charge current should be 10% of its capacity, i.e. with a battery capacity of 50 Amp*hours, the charging current will be 5 Amps. Under such conditions, it will reach its nominal capacity of 10 hours.

Imagine, you were turned on by the wires of another car in the winter, and in order to fully charge the car battery, you need to drive the car for 10 hours straight, that is, drive about five hundred kilometers.

It is believed that to replenish the battery charge to the nominal value, it is enough to drive 30 kilometers in a normal cycle, and in city traffic jams half that. That is, if your work is located more than 10 kilometers from home, this is enough not to worry about recharging the battery outside the car.

The case is different when work is close to home. You spent the capacity when starting the car, quickly drove to work, and then also home. After a week or two, your battery runs out. And not at all because there is something wrong with the car, it’s just the rhythm of the drive.

In this case, you should think about warming up the engine even in the warm season just to ensure that the battery is always charged.

Let's return to the charge current. If it is enough to drive a car 30 kilometers to fully charge the battery, and not 500, as in the example, therefore, the charging current of the car generator is not 5 Amperes, but much higher.

Battery life

The normal battery life is more than five years. Used cars imported from abroad have fully working seven- to nine-year-old batteries on board. There, however, the storage conditions for cars are different, and the temperature in winter is higher.

There are three reasons for the low durability of the battery: violation of the battery charging mode, the quality of the battery, the human factor, in other words, laziness.

Let's start with the first one. If the battery is not charged to full capacity all the time, the plates undergo a sulfation process. Sulfation, or the formation of lead sulfate on the plates, can be compared to a stomach ulcer in humans, only in humans it can be treated, but a battery ulcer is practically untreatable.

There are various methods of complete discharge-charge, charging with pulsed currents. Maybe there is some percentage recovery, but if the battery is completely dead, then alas...

The quality of the battery depends on the manufacturer. Modern technologies only affect the increase in battery capacity while reducing the size and weight, respectively, the amount of lead.

Video - how to check battery charging from a generator:

3 in 1: DVR + GPS informer + radar detector

How to protect yourself from the blinding sun and headlights while driving?

How can a powerful generator hasten death?

We take a 40A generator, and a 60 a/h battery. ACC is deeply discharged. As a result, at a voltage of 14.4 volts from the generator, the charging current can be 20 or 30 amperes. Essentially, it is limited only by the generator's capabilities.

Such a large charging current also destroys the battery plates.

Now the same conditions but the generator is 100A. Now the charging current is unlikely to be limited by the generator, and with a deep discharge the battery will be even larger and will destroy it even more.

We remember that it is good to charge a battery to 1/10 of its capacity. Therefore, the more the battery is discharged while parked (three days in the garage, carrying a light bulb in nature), the greater the charging current from the generator will be.

Again, these are not normal operating conditions, but they do happen. Some more often, some less often.

I have it, but I don’t remember the name. Not the most expensive.

Oh, let it be proof that not only expensive batteries can last a long time. Victor “Stabs” said the same thing about 7 years, and not about expensive ones.

Now is another moment. What voltage does your generator produce? It must be measured: – The battery is FULLY charged from an external charger. – all consumers are turned off, except those that control the engine (ignition, fuel supply). – After starting the engine, let it run for several minutes at speeds slightly above XX in order to compensate for the loss of energy in the battery when starting the engine (not everything is clear, but this will remove the sharp peak charging current).

We measure the voltage at the battery terminals. Something tells me that for Shtubs, and Romanson, and others whose batteries last a long time, the voltage will be close to 14.4 volts. Those. The relay voltage regulator is set to normal voltage. But many RRs, and the nuances in their connections, can produce a charging voltage of 13.4 volts. For example, my RR on the Volga, (new) was set to 13.7 volts. (approximately, but less than 14 for sure). Again, I'm too lazy to look for a book on batteries, but if the battery is charged at this voltage, it will be chronically undercharged. Moreover, by 20-30% (!).

Yeah, I found it: At 14.4 volts the battery is 80% (!) charged! And to recharge the remaining 20%, you need to raise the voltage to 16.2 volts (!). Who does this - practically no one. This means that if the RR is set to 14.4 volts, we are charged to 80%. And at 13.7 volts – 70%.

Troubleshooting

Lack of charging can be caused by a wide range of reasons, which we will talk about today.

These reasons include:

• Weak contacts;
• Winding breaks;
• Short circuit on the rotor housing;
• Interturn short circuits;
• Mechanical breakdowns;
• Closing the positive clamp on the body;
• Short circuit in the phase winding;
• Short circuit of the stator to the housing.

Let's look at these situations in more detail to determine the true cause of the breakdown specifically in your case.

Start by turning off all additional equipment in your car that is not included as standard - DVR, navigator, audio system, etc.

1. Measure the current output when the vehicle is cold, not running and all life support systems are disconnected. If there is no return at all, that's good. But this rarely happens. Almost always on tens there may be insufficient contact, some kind of short circuit, due to which there is recoil, but it is small. It’s much worse if the recoil is impressive and leads to battery discharge in one night spent in a parking lot or garage.
2. If everything is normal, there are no strong current leaks or they are insignificant, and the battery has retained its charge, then you can return all the devices to the places that were installed additionally.
3. Recheck the recoil. If at the same time the instruments show an active leak, then the reason does not lie in the battery and is not related to the generator. The culprit of the problem is one of the additionally connected devices.
4. If no recoil is observed, then you need to carefully inspect the generator.
5. There are many sources of trouble that can lead to generator failure. These include:

• Insufficient contact between the rotor rings and brushes;
• There was a break in the excitation winding;
• An interturn short circuit has occurred on the field winding coil. In this case, the generator will hum and get very hot;
• The field winding closes to the rotor housing;
• The stator shorts to the housing;
• A break occurs in the stator phase winding;
• The diodes have broken through in the rectifier block, that is, the diode bridge;
• The plus is shorted on the body;
• Mechanical problems have occurred.

Problem solving

1. Poor contact. Loose contact can occur due to contamination, oil getting on the brushes, slip rings. Also, contact may deteriorate due to shrinkage of the springs that press on the brushes, or the brushes are stuck. Such phenomena lead to an increase in excitation resistance and can sometimes break the circuit. To eliminate the problem, sometimes it is enough to simply treat the surfaces with a rag soaked in gasoline. If the brushes are worn out, it is better to replace them. At the same time, check the condition of the springs and rings. The rings oxidize, so treat them with glass sandpaper.

1. The winding has broken. If this happens, the battery will no longer charge. To determine the problem, place your hand on the battery. If there is a break, the device will begin to heat up. If you want a more accurate check, then disconnect the end of the field winding from the brush and connect the battery wires to it and terminal Ш using a voltmeter or a light bulb. If there is a break, the lamp will not light up and the voltmeter needle will not budge. Test each coil individually to determine which one is preventing the alternator from working. The internal coils must be replaced, and the internal coils must be soldered.

1. Short circuit between turns. An interturn short circuit can occur in any field winding coil. If such a situation occurs, the winding will begin to heat up, and the excitation current will increase. To check, be sure to measure the resistance of each coil. For this you will need a voltmeter.

1. Short circuit on the rotor housing. Such a breakdown leads to the fact that the entire field winding is short-circuited. The generator stops working. The most common short circuit area is where the ends of the winding lead to the rotor rings. To check, use a 220V light bulb. One wire should be connected to any contact of the ring, and the second to the rotor core or shaft. If there is a short circuit, then the light will turn on. It is impossible to operate a car with such a generator. It is necessary to isolate or completely replace the faulty winding. The first option is only suitable for getting to a service station and carrying out a full repair.

1. Short circuit on phase winding. This kind of problem occurs because the insulation between the turns of the stator coil is destroyed. If this happens, the generator will start to get very hot, the battery will not receive sufficient charge, as this happens at high crankshaft speeds.
2. Short circuit of the stator to the housing. As is the case with the other listed short circuit options, in this situation the generator begins to overheat, hum, and its power drops significantly. To check you will need a 220V light bulb. One wire is connected to the core, and the second to the winding terminal. Any. If there is a short circuit, your light bulb will light up. To fix the problem, simply replace the failed coil.
3. The positive terminal closes to the housing. This kind of malfunction is unpleasant because it does not just overheat your generator. Also, due to this short circuit, breakdown of the diodes of the rectifier unit occurs. From there, the problem goes to the battery, which can simply short out. Not infrequently, a short circuit led to complete failure of the battery. Although most often it just completely discharges.
4. Mechanical problems. If we take into account all possible mechanical problems of the generator, then belt stretching will be in first place in terms of frequency. This is the most common breakdown in the case of the VAZ 2110. If this happens, the pulley will begin to seriously overheat and the battery will not have enough charge. It is not superfluous to check the quality of all contacts, the presence of broken connections and other possible mechanical problems.

If problems are detected with the generator, you should immediately begin measures aimed at eliminating the breakdown. If you have no experience, contact only trusted service stations.

The alternator is the heart of your vehicle's electrical system. Like the main human organ, it provides power to all instruments and devices. Therefore, you should treat it very carefully and if problems arise, do not delay repairs.

No charging - main causes and troubleshooting

Owners of VAZ classics often have to deal with the problem when there is no charge for the 2106. The reasons leading to such a problem can be very different, and most likely it will not be possible to list them in full here, so we will list at least the most common of them.

1. The brushes of the VAZ 2106 generator are worn out. If the brushes are not long enough, this can lead to a situation where the VAZ 2106 battery is not charging, or when the charging is too weak. Therefore, if the VAZ 2106 battery charging light is on, first of all you should check the generator brushes of the VAZ 2106 car and, if necessary, replace them. It should be noted that the length of the brushes should not be less than 12 mm.

2. The diode bridge has failed. Poor battery charging can also be caused by burnt-out diodes of the rectifier unit, since the generator cannot fully charge the battery. To check, you need to diagnose the diode bridge and, if necessary, replace it.

3. The charging relay has failed. If the battery of a VAZ 2106 car is not charging, then the reason for this may also be a breakdown of the charging relay. As a rule, if charging on a VAZ 2106 is lost precisely for this reason, then car owners have to look for a fault for a long time until this electrical part is replaced. By the way, it must be said that it changes very easily, since it is attached with only two bolts under the hood on the right side.

4. Problems with the rotor and stator. If, after checking all of the above parts, the VAZ 2106 car battery charging light is still on, you need to diagnose the generator and be sure to check its stator and rotor, and if necessary, replace the generator.

How to connect a generator to a VAZ 2106? First, the generator is placed in its “legal” place, near the engine, and its location must be secured with a washer and bolt. After this, the lower fastening nut is put on. The generator is connected to the VAZ 2106 by two wires, the first comes from the terminal of the brush holder, and the second comes from the plug of the main terminal of the stator winding. The main difference between the output of the brush holder and the wire coming from the output of the stator winding is the absence of insulation pads.

The wire fastening nut must be attached to the generator terminal; a protective rubber cap is placed on top of the terminal. Next, screw the nut securing the generator onto the tension bar. Then the generator belt is put on the crankshaft, generator and pump pulley. The tightening of the generator fastening to the bar located under the hood is increased. After this, you should install the protective shield, carefully securing it with 12 fastening screws. That's all, the generator is installed and after that all that remains is to check it.

In this article you will learn about cases when a car generator does not charge the battery. The breakdown is not pleasant, but it can be fixed fairly quickly. To do this, it is enough to have in your arsenal a standard set of screwdrivers and wrenches, as well as a multimeter - a device for measuring electrical quantities (resistance, voltage, current). Of course, in the case of some specific breakdowns, you can completely limit yourself to visual diagnostics. But everything will be discussed a little below. Now it’s time to learn how to dismantle a car generator. After this, its disassembly and diagnostics of all components will be considered.

What to do if your phone battery is not charging?

Is there no power in the network or is the socket faulty?

This may well be the case. First, check if there is electricity in the network. To do this, just try turning on the light. If it turns on, there may be a problem with the outlet. To eliminate the problem, try plugging the phone into another outlet that is known to work. If the battery still does not charge, then the problem is with the phone itself or the power adapter. Continue to the next points.

Faulty socket

Faulty power adapter or damaged cable

The power supply, also called charging, and the cable from it are very common reasons why the phone battery does not charge. The easiest way to rule out a power adapter problem is to check whether the battery is charged using a known working charger for this phone. But at the same time, this is the most difficult option. After all, where can I get a similar charger?

Faulty phone power adapter

As for modern smartphones, they are easier to check. They have a USB connector combined with power. Therefore, using a cable, you can simply connect your phone to a computer or laptop. You can also connect it through the appropriate adapter to the car's cigarette lighter. If the smartphone battery begins to charge, then the problem is with the adapter.

It may well be that the adapter is in working order, but its cable is damaged. Inspect it for kinks, kinks, melting and damage to the insulation, etc. If possible, only the cable can be replaced. But very often power adapters are produced with a non-removable cable. And if the cable malfunctions, you will need the entire adapter.

Although if your arms are straight, you can cut out the damaged piece. Then solder the corresponding wires or twist them. After that, wrap them with electrical tape, and the adapter will continue to serve.

Incompatible charging

Modern man is surrounded by gadgets on all sides. Therefore, it may be that you simply connected an adapter from some other device to your mobile phone. As a result, the battery does not charge. This is a fairly common situation, since almost all modern smartphones and tablets have mini or micro USB ports for charging.

USB interface for charging and data exchange
But this is unlikely to work with phones 7-10 years ago. At that time, each manufacturer produced phones with their own connectors for charging and data exchange. So, it was physically impossible to connect another adapter to them.

Problem with the power connector or USB interface

This already falls into the category of malfunctions in the phone itself. If the power adapter is original and in good condition, but the battery is not charging, you should pay attention to the phone connector. In some older phones (for example, Nokia) you could find a separate power connector. Now charging is carried out via USB, or more precisely, via micro or mini USB.

Micro USB power connector
If you carry a gadget in your pocket or purse without a case, then dust, dirt, pieces of fabric, etc. accumulate in the USB port. At a certain point, all these foreign particles prevent normal contact.

You insert the adapter, but the phone battery does not charge. In this case, carefully blow out the connector and clean it from dust and dirt. At the same time, there is no need to pick it with passion. Especially with metal objects.

If the connector is loose, damaged, or burnt out, then the intervention of service center specialists will be required. Fortunately, replacing a USB port is not very expensive.

The battery has failed

And only after checking all the above points, we move on to the phone battery. If it does not charge after intensive work for 2-3 years, then there is nothing to be surprised about. The battery has exhausted its service life. Modern smartphones use lithium batteries. Or, more precisely, lithium-ion and lithium-polymer models. Their service life is on average 300-400 charge-discharge cycles.

Swollen phone battery

Remove the battery from the phone and inspect its appearance. If the battery is swollen, then it's time to buy a new battery. There are, of course, some ways to revive your phone battery, but they all give a short-term effect. Therefore, it is better to allocate funds and choose a battery for your smartphone.

Problems with the phone hardware

Malfunctions involving the internals of the phone rarely occur. Most often they appear immediately after purchasing the device. Also, problems with the phone not charging can occur after a fall, shock, overheating, water contact, and so on.

Telephone board
In case of telephone hardware malfunctions, you cannot do without the help of service center specialists. By the way, if you need to replace your smartphone's motherboard, in most cases it will be better to buy a new phone. The cost of repairs will be such that it is impractical to do it. In addition, it is unknown how long the smartphone will work after this repair.

The software is buggy

Very often, phone owners are very frivolous about installing all kinds of applications from the Internet. In most cases, this is done to expand the functionality of the device. But users do not check the integrity of the application developers and do not pay attention to the dubious content of some programs. The same can be said about visiting various Internet resources.

Virus on the phone

As a result of uncontrolled installation of programs and the absence of an antivirus, “glitches” begin. As a result, anything can happen. For example, even if the phone is working properly, the battery may not charge. The charge indicator may also disappear, the smartphone may quickly discharge, and individual phone modules may turn on and off randomly.

If this happens, try to remember what applications you recently installed on your phone. Remove them and any apps that look suspicious. After that, install the antivirus and carefully install it on your smartphone.

What to do if there is no charger?

So, you have discovered that your car's alternator is not charging. It is immediately necessary to look for the root cause of this breakdown, because it can get to the point where the engine simply refuses to work, since it will not have enough electrical energy. Consequently, the capacity decreases, making it impossible to crank the starter while starting the engine. Please note that if your generator is fully operational and operating in ideal mode, the battery practically does not need to be charged. Even in cold weather, although the capacity of most batteries may drop, a working alternator will ensure that the charge level is always above 60%. But now we need to figure out why the generator does not charge and

Other causes of non-charging or poor battery charging

If, when trying to charge a dead battery from a charger, the car owner does not get the desired result, or the charging was not complete within a certain time, and the above tips did not help, then your actions will depend on the specific situation. Let's consider each case in detail.

In a discharged battery, the electrolyte density does not correspond to the norm

The density is checked with a hydrometer in each jar. For temperate regions, it should be 1.27 g/cm 3, at +15 0 C. At a normal level, the density increases during charging. If the density does not increase in a bank or several banks, the battery does not take a charge. The fact that not everything is in order with the electrolyte is indicated by its cloudiness - in its normal state it is transparent and colorless.

Proceed in the following sequence.

1. Observing safety precautions, drain the cloudy liquid.
2. Rinse the desired jars with distilled water.
3. Fill in new electrolyte, bring the density to normal.
4. Recharge until normal density is achieved in all banks.
5. Monitor the optimal electrolyte level and add distilled water if necessary.

It is better to wash the cans by an experienced specialist to prevent short-circuiting of the positive and negative electrodes.

Short circuit in plates

Difficulties with charging from the charger can occur when the plates short-circuit, which occurs when they fall off. In this case, lead particles settle to the bottom and come into contact with the lower ends of the electrodes.

Another possible problem is wear of the separators, in which case the positive and negative electrodes come into contact and a short circuit occurs. In addition, the positive and negative electrodes can become deformed for various reasons and short out the circuit.

If the battery design allows, the banks are repaired. Otherwise, the power supply must be replaced.

Sulfation of battery plates

The phenomenon when a white coating covers the electrodes is called sulfation. It appears if the battery has not been recharged for a long time, the water has evaporated, and the density of the electrolyte has increased. As a result, it is possible that the battery is not fully charged.

Basic faults

In the case when they begin to appear, it is necessary first of all to pay attention to the entire on-board network. It is quite possible that the wiring that records the excitation winding of the generator in the installation is broken. Please note that the generator provides little charging if its power is much lower than the total of all consumers. This happens when you have installed on your car, for example, a very powerful sound system, lighting, as well as other gadgets that are not provided as standard. This leads to the fact that when the internal combustion engine is running, the entire on-board network is powered not only from the generator, but also from the battery. In this case, the battery actively releases its charge. But it itself does not recharge at this time. Therefore, when tuning domestic cars, be sure to pay attention to the generator set. It is advisable to have a reserve of power. Only in this case will you ensure the most complete charging of the battery, as well as ideal operation of all consumers.

How can you tell if your car has low voltage?

A low voltage problem may not be visible to the naked eye. But the car owner may experience a number of inconveniences and not even realize their real cause. You can often find questions on forums about how to deal with too weak operation of the climate system fan. They also ask about other problems that are inextricably linked to the quality of the electrical network. It is worth paying attention to the following manifestations of problems in the car:

• dim and uneven light from the headlights, which does not allow the car to be operated normally; often a voltage drop is the cause of this problem in the car;
• dim lighting of the instrument panel, flashing when the speed increases and decreases, incomprehensible operation of the lighting elements, including the interior lamp and all light sources in the car;
• inadequate operation of sensors that are vital for your car, incorrect indicators on the driver’s operating panel, strange device operating parameters;
• lack of power supply for the engine, which is expressed in its intermittent operation, low speeds and the possibility of stalling at any time at idle with no load;
• failure of the on-board computer systems, radio, odometer and other electronic systems and modules in your car; this can really depend on the electrical network.

A voltage drop below 10 Volts on consumers can damage the vital organs of the car, so their interruptions in operation are quite understandable. You should always pay attention to the important features of the operation of these nodes so as not to lose sight of possible problems. It is the poor quality of operation of electrical appliances that is the first step for correct diagnosis of equipment. Complex problems with electricity customers may be an even clearer indication of problems.

Algorithm for finding faults

So, now in more detail about how to search for all generator faults. After all, the main reason is important to you. The generator does not charge - this is just a symptom. If the car’s equipment is standard and you do not have any extra consumers of electrical energy, you can safely begin diagnosing the generator itself. In the same case, if you have additional electricity consumers, they need to be turned off for a while. Moreover, you need to disconnect it directly from the on-board network, and not just with a button. First, measure the flow rate with the engine off. It is important for you to find out whether electricity is consumed while the car is parked. Please note that the alarm must be turned off at this time. Unfortunately, most domestic cars have a small current leak. True, it is not capable of draining the battery even after several weeks of parking. After this, all electricity consumers must be connected. Similarly, check for leakage with connected consumers. If the leakage current is very large, look for the cause of the breakdown not in the generator or battery, but in any device connected to the vehicle’s on-board network. This can be done by elimination.

Battery malfunctions and their elimination

At the beginning we already talked about sulfation. But there are other problems with the battery itself. This is the last thing to check if the battery does not take a charge. What to do in this situation? The problem needs to be eliminated. To eliminate sulfation of the plates, it is recommended to rinse the battery with distilled water. The inside of the battery is first cleaned of debris. The battery is then allowed to dry completely before being charged if possible.

The electrolyte density is adjusted to 1.2885 g/cm3. A liquid with a density of 1.4 g/cm3 is suitable for this. Do not allow the electrolytic fluid to boil or heat. The charging process is continued until the charge in each section is 1.3-1.4 V. Then the current is halved, but charging should continue. If after two hours the voltage and density do not change, the process is stopped. Water and electrolyte are added to the battery. The voltage in each section is reduced to 1.7 V using a light bulb.

After this, the battery should start working properly. But in addition to sulfation, the plates can be destroyed. In this case, the electrolyte will turn black. The plates often short out. This will be indicated by the absence of electrolytic fluid in any section. When shorted, it gets very hot. You will hear a characteristic hissing sound. When you open the lid, you will see the electrolyte boiling and bubbling.

If there is no current leakage in standby mode

It is much worse if there is no current leakage when the engine is turned off, but for this it is necessary to inspect the generator more carefully. There can be many reasons for its failure. Often there is no contact or it is very weak in the brush assembly. In this case, of course, the generator does not charge the battery. This happens when the brushes are almost completely worn out. There may be destruction of the field winding. It is also possible that a short circuit between the turns appears in this winding. On the rotor, the winding can be short-circuited to the housing. Similar faults are sometimes present in the stator. It has three windings, which may also have breaks, a short to the body or between the turns. If the rectifier unit contains one or more faulty semiconductor diodes, the generator will not produce voltage at its output. And of course, various mechanical influences are capable of exerting their influence. For example, stretching the drive belt. It’s worth talking about all these breakdowns in more detail.

Causes and solutions to the problem

If you have the opportunity to borrow someone else’s battery for testing, you can try installing it in the car instead of yours. Of course, this battery must be fully working. Actually, in this way you can find out what the cause of the problem is - in the battery or in the generator. Below we will consider the reasons for this malfunction.

Internal condition of the battery

Typically, the reason why the generator cannot charge the battery is due to sulfation of the battery plates. In this case, the surface of the plates may be covered with salts - partially or completely - which prevent the battery from charging. If the degree of plate coverage is small, then, in principle, you can always try to restore the functionality of the battery. However, if the destruction process is no longer reversible, it will be necessary to replace the device.

As for restoring the battery structure from sulfation, this process can take more than one day, and the result and quality of restoration cannot be guaranteed. This means that you may eventually need a new battery anyway. The resuscitation procedure, as a rule, begins when the battery shows no signs of swelling, mechanical damage, cracks, etc. That is, the device body must be intact.

But it should be borne in mind that the external state is not always a guarantee that the result will suit you. Inside the structure there are banks in which plates can break off, which ultimately leads to a short circuit. If this is the case, then there are no other options other than buying a new battery.

Terminals

Sometimes the indicator light may appear while driving a car. At this moment, you should not panic, as the reason may be quite banal. If you hit a bump or a hole, the contact may simply fall off the battery, especially if the terminal was not screwed on properly. If this is the case, then you just need to put it back in place and tighten it harder.

Problems with terminals can occur if they become oxidized at the point where they connect to the terminal. To solve this problem, the oxidation simply needs to be cleaned up. To do this you will need fine grit sandpaper. You need to be as careful as possible during the process, since you can accidentally cut off the lead part of the terminal, and this is unacceptable. If you erase more layers than necessary, the terminal will not hold well and will begin to fall off on every bump (video author - Avramenko Garage).

Generator belt

What charge should the generator provide and for what reasons does the battery overcharge or fail to charge? Quite often, the problem lies in the strap of the unit - if the tension is weak, the belt will begin to slip on the shaft, at this moment the unit will not be able to supply voltage to the system. The battery is switched and the charged battery turns from an energy consumer into a source of consumption, which is gradually discharged.

Diagnostics of the degree of belt tension can be carried out with the engine turned off. If the internal combustion engine is disconnected, you can try to tighten it if necessary. But it should be borne in mind that slippage can be caused not only by poor tension, but also by profile wear. This problem can only be solved by replacing the strap.

A wet or damp shaft can cause the impossibility of transmitting rotation - the strap will slide over the surface without effort. In order for the battery to charge normally, the pulley must be dry, so it will only be enough to dry it. It is quite difficult to determine slippage; in this case, the strap may break.

The cause of the problem may be oxidation of the wires on the generator unit at the connections. If you notice a white coating, then, as stated above, it can be removed with sandpaper. Carry out a visual check for possible broken wires or burnt contacts. If the wire is burnt out, this may be indicated by a characteristic smell (the author of the video is VAZ 2101-2107 REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE).

Insufficient contact

Please note that if the brushes and rings on the rotor become oily or dirty, contact may be lost for a short time or permanently. It is possible that the springs in the brush holder have deteriorated. With their help, the brushes are pressed against the rings on the rotor. Consequently, the total resistance of the excitation winding increases, or the electrical circuit is completely broken. In this case, the generator gives a weak charge or stops working altogether. To get rid of this problem, sometimes you can simply wipe the brushes with a lint-free cloth. It is advisable to moisten it in solvent or gasoline. Of course, if the brushes are very worn, they need to be replaced. In the event that oxidation of the rings has occurred, it is necessary to clean them using glass sandpaper.

Types of problems

Charging problems can be divided into two types: problems with the charger, phone components, or a completely discharged battery. In the first case, everything is clear, we replace the damaged elements and be done with it, but a discharged battery can be absolutely working and not be charged, so we will first deal with the components, and then with the manipulations that can revive our battery.

IMPORTANT. All manipulations must be performed with the phone turned off and disconnected from the network.

Winding destruction

It is not very pleasant if the excitation winding is suddenly destroyed. If such a malfunction is present, the generator will not work completely, since there is no magnetic field. The fact is that the operating principle of any generator is based on the presence of a moving magnetic field. This malfunction can be identified very simply. Firstly, if you touch the generator housing during operation, it will turn out to be too hot. Secondly, a light with a battery drawn on it will definitely light up on the dashboard. It indicates that the battery is not charging. You can also use the multimeter in resistance measurement mode. To do this, you need to measure the resistance value between the rings. But these are not all the reasons why the generator does not charge well.

Generator check

The reason why the battery is not charging may be that the generator is not working. If the car has a high mileage, this can lead to wear out of the rotor or wear of the rotating elements. As a result, this can lead to misalignment of parts inside the structure and lack of rotation. If the generator is jammed, it will need to be replaced; repairs in this case will not yield results. In addition, the reason may be a broken circuit inside the mechanism. Such a malfunction can only be identified with the help of an electrician.

In general, most problems associated with lack of charge can be solved on your own. To do this, you just need to properly monitor the operation of the unit and devote time to diagnosing the battery and generator if the corresponding indicator appears on the device.

If the battery of your VAZ 2107 is discharged, then one of three elements may be “to blame”: the generator, the voltage regulator, and the connections between them. Determining “who is to blame” can be very simple, even without additional devices. How this article will help.

We carry out testing using standard equipment

To monitor the operation of the generator on the “seven” there are two instruments: a voltmeter and a control light on the instrument panel. With their help, you can track the cause of your troubles.

1)
Turn on the ignition without turning on the starter
and look at the warning lamp. It should shine at full intensity, as in the photo. The voltmeter needle, normally, stands on the white part of the scale (photo). Let's say everything is OK - let's move on

The lamp does not light, the voltmeter needle remains at zero when the ignition is turned on.

Check fuse No. 10 in the mounting block. 99% of the time it will be burnt out. In this case, all other lamps on the instrument panel will also be de-energized. Replace it with the same one and test again. If the fuse burns out again, you need to look for the cause, that is, a short circuit. We check whether the wires from the generator are disconnected, whether the insulation is frayed somewhere, etc. Diagram 3 at this link

The lamp does not light up, the voltmeter needle shows normal

We check the wires on the generator to see if the wire has come loose from terminal “61”. If everything is normal there, you need to check whether there is a “plus” on this wire using a test lamp, an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter.

Terminal “61” of the VAZ-2107 generator

If there is a plus

— we check the “tablet” (aka “chocolate”) and the generator.

There is no "plus"

- You will have to remove the instrument panel and check the lamp. Replace the burnt out one. How to remove the panel, watch the video

2) Start the engine

.
The control lamp should go out, the voltmeter needle goes into the green sector and is located from the middle to the right edge (photo). If everything is so, then most likely the generator is working normally
.

The lamp remains on or dims slightly

If you give it gas, it goes out at high speeds and lights up again when they decrease. The voltmeter needle is in the white sector and goes to the edge of the green when the speed increases. Generator output is faulty

. The same conclusion if the lamp continues to light at any speed, and the voltmeter needle is in the white sector and even goes to red.

3) If the generator seems to be working, but the battery is gradually discharged

Let's do one more check.
We start the engine, turn on the heater fan and low beam, take the key to “10” and, loosening the negative terminal of the battery, remove it. An idling engine (about 900 rpm) should not stall. If the engine stops, put the terminal back in place and start it again. While holding the speed at 1200-1500, remove the terminal again. Has the engine stalled again? Then turn off the headlights, leave the heater fan on
and repeat the test.
Now the engine with the negative terminal disconnected from the battery continues to run. output works, but does not produce the required current; it needs to be repaired.
Note!
During such a check, it is better and safer to work together. You cannot disconnect the battery terminal without at least turning on the heater fan or other load. A voltage surge at the time of shutdown can “burn” the electronic elements of the ignition systems. You need to be especially careful on a car with an injection engine.

Short circuit between turns

Occurs when the outer insulation of the wire with which the winding is wound is destroyed. Please note that in the presence of an interturn short circuit, excessive heating of the winding occurs. In this case, the current consumed by the excitation winding increases many times. For accurate diagnostics, it is necessary to completely disassemble the generator, and then use a multimeter to measure the coil resistance. If it differs from the reference one, we can conclude that there is a short circuit between the turns of the winding.

Shorting the windings to the housing

In the event that there is a short circuit in the winding specifically to the housing, the generator set stops working. Most often, a short circuit occurs in the place where the terminal leads are located. These are the places where the winding is soldered to the slip rings. To check the rotor winding, you need to take a lamp with an operating voltage of 220 volts. Please note that all safety precautions must be followed. You will need to connect one terminal from the lamp to power. Connect the second pin to the slip ring. The second power wire must be connected to the rotor housing. In the event that there is a short circuit of the rotor winding to the housing, the light will definitely light up. If there is no short circuit, the lamp will not light up. And if there is, then you were able to understand the reason why the generator does not charge the battery.

How to determine the charge level?

Primary control of the charge level on the VAZ 2107 is carried out by instruments on the panel: a control lamp and a voltmeter. If the charge is normal, the indicator arrow will be in the green area, and the control lamp should go out when the engine is running.

To more accurately check the voltage level, you need a voltmeter. As mentioned earlier, the correct charge is 13.6 - 14.1 volts.

You can purchase a special automotive electronic voltmeter or one combined with a watch. Installed both instead of the standard clock and on the dashboard.

Preparing to Troubleshoot

If a problem is detected, we begin diagnostics. First, let's prepare the tools.

List of tools:

• Multimeter (voltmeter);
• Emery cloth or needle file;
• Knife;
• Pliers;
• 12-volt indicator lamp (control).

Stator problems

Similar problems can arise in stator windings. In particular, if available, the battery will not charge. Of course, the generator can work, but in emergency mode. Firstly, its power will drop significantly. Secondly, the batteries will not be charged. Thirdly, excessive heating of the generator housing occurs. The winding may also short-circuit to the housing. Excessive heating, humming, loss of power - all those signs that are inherent in rotor winding failures. The check is carried out in the same way as in the case of a rotor winding. To carry out repairs, it is necessary to replace all faulty coils. It even happens that in generators the positive terminal is closed to the housing. Consequently, a short circuit also occurs between the terminals of the battery. This poses the risk of a fire. Of course, the generator does not charge in this case.

How to remove the generator?

You will need the following set of tools:

1. Mounting blade.
2. Two keys for 17, one for 10 and 13.
3. like WD-40.

The latter is extremely necessary if the generator has not been removed for a long time, and there is a lot of rust and dirt on the threads. If this is the case, be sure to treat all connections with penetrating lubricant an hour before starting work. This will make the work easier. At the same time, pay attention to the condition of the belt; there should be no cuts or other damage on it. If there are any, be sure to install a new one during assembly. It is quite possible that the generator does not charge precisely because the belt tension is weak or it is broken.

Disconnect the “-” terminal from the battery, after which you can proceed to further work. Unscrew the nut that secures the “+” wire to terminal 31 of the generator. You've sorted out the connection, move on. Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the nut from the top mounting and move the generator towards the engine. At the same time, the belt tension becomes weaker, and it can be quickly removed. Then unscrew the nut on the lower fastening, holding the bolt with a second 17mm wrench.

Reasons why the car battery does not charge from the generator

Posted on January 4, 2018 by generator-prosto. No comments yet

The battery and generator are the two sources of electricity. The battery is used to start the engine and to recharge the vehicle's systems if the generator cannot cope with the load. The role of the generator is to provide power to current consumers in the on-board network when the engine is running and recharge the battery. It is this last function that will interest us. During operation, it is not uncommon for the battery to not charge during a trip or to receive insufficient charge. Let's look at the reasons for this.