January 15, 2015 Lada.Online 246 559 367
To start the engine, you need to ensure that a spark appears at a certain moment to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders. Problems with starting the engine occur if one or more elements of the system malfunction. The table lists possible reasons why the Priora does not start.
If the Lada Priora's starter does not turn
| Possible malfunction | Diagnostics | Remedies |
| Low battery | The voltage at the battery terminals without load is less than 12V. When trying to start the engine, a cracking noise is heard from under the hood. | Charge the battery or replace it with a new one |
| Oxidation of battery terminals or wire terminals, their fit is not tight | When you try to start the car, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals. In this case, a crash may be heard under the hood. | Clean the contacts, lubricate them with petroleum jelly and tighten the terminals |
| The engine or attachments are jammed | Check the rotation of the crankshaft, pump and generator pulley. | Repair engine, generator, pump |
| The starter is faulty, the starter drive gear or flywheel ring teeth are damaged | Remove and inspect the starter. | Repair or replace starter |
| The starter switching circuit or starter relay is faulty, the wires are damaged, or the ignition switch contacts do not close | When the key is turned to position “II”, the starter traction relay does not operate (a click is not heard under the hood). Check the +12V supply to the control contact of the traction relay. | Replace starter relay, wires, ignition switch |
| The starter traction relay is faulty, there is a short circuit or break in the retractor winding, the relay armature is stuck | When the key is turned to position “II”, the traction relay does not operate (there is no click under the hood), but + 12V is supplied to the control contact of the traction relay. Remove the relay and check its operation. | Replace the traction relay |
| Contacts or wires of the traction relay are oxidized, poor ground contact | When the starter is turned on, a clicking sound is heard under the hood, but the starter armature does not rotate. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the Battery-Starter circuit, as well as the ground wire. If the circuit is in good condition, remove the starter and check the operation of the traction relay by applying +12V to it from the battery | Tighten the terminals, clean the contacts, replace the traction relay |
| Open or short circuit in the holding winding of the traction relay | When you try to start the engine, you hear a crashing sound under the hood. The battery voltage is within normal limits. We check the traction relay with an ohmmeter or by its excessive heating. | Replace the traction relay |
| Burnt starter commutator, stuck brushes or severe wear Open or short circuit in the starter armature winding | The starter armature rotates slowly or does not rotate at all. Check the traction relay by applying voltage to the starter contact bolt directly from the battery | Replace starter or armature |
| Freewheel slipping | When the starter is turned on, the armature rotates, the flywheel is stationary | Replace clutch or starter |
The main reasons for uneven operation of the Matiz engine
Matiz owners so often turn to car repair shops with complaints about internal combustion engine repairs that typical methods for solving engine problems have been known for a long time.
Fault: the gap between the spark plug electrodes is too large. Remedy: it is necessary to bend the electrodes with a special probe and replace the spark plugs.
Malfunction: when checking with an ohmmeter, a break in the winding of the coil block was detected.
Remedy: it is necessary to replace the unit and high-voltage wires.
Malfunction: the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys do not match, which indicates a violation of the gas distribution in the system. Remedy: adjust the location of the shafts according to the marks.
Malfunction: the idle speed regulator is broken (detected when a known working regulator is installed in the system and the engine is started).
Remedy: replace the regulator (sometimes replacing the throttle assembly is sufficient).
Malfunction: the throttle valve or its electric drive is stuck. Remedy: it is necessary to adjust the cable tension or replace the entire assembly.
A car owner can be sure that the cause of uneven engine operation is determined correctly in a garage only if he has sufficient experience and the necessary tools. If the driver is familiar with the structure of his car “to the extent”, it is certainly better for him to contact a service center for qualified assistance.
Daewoo Matiz is considered a women's car, and it is mainly purchased for trips around the city. It is profitable to buy a used Matiz when the budget is small
, and a means of transportation is extremely necessary. The miniature, nimble car easily maneuvers in city traffic and easily parks on the side of the road.
The appearance of a Korean car is deceiving
– despite the apparent compactness, the car interior is quite spacious.
Car owners find many advantages in Matiz, and its important advantage is the reliability of the brand. Overall, the car is not bad, but its shortcomings
.
History of the model
The first cars under the Daewoo Matiz brand appeared in 1998; the model’s predecessor is the Daewoo Tico, which was produced by a South Korean company from 1988 to 2004. The exterior and interior of the Matiz were developed by ItalDesign Giugiaro studio; since 2001, the hatchback began to be produced at the Uz-Daewoo plant.
The car was restyled in 2002, the changes affected:
Front optics;
Rear lights;
In 2003, a four-cylinder engine with a volume of 1 liter and a power of 64 hp began to be installed on the car. pp., an automatic transmission appeared, and for some countries, Matizs were also equipped with CVTs. In 2004, Daewoo became part of General Motors, and the car was also produced under the Chevrolet brand.
At this time, the Daewoo Matiz model had a twin brother, the Chevrolet Spark, which had almost the same units and chassis, and was only slightly different from the Matiz in appearance. The car was practically considered a double, therefore it has the same disadvantages as the Matiz. In 2008, the production of compact hatchbacks with automatic transmission was discontinued.
Priora won't start, starter turns
| Possible malfunction | Diagnostics | Remedies |
| There is no gasoline in the tank | On the instrument panel the fuel level indicator is at zero. | Pour gasoline |
| Battery is low | The voltage at the battery terminals without load is less than 12V. When trying to start the car, a crashing sound is heard from under the hood. | Charge the battery or replace it with a new one |
| Oxidation of battery terminals or wire terminals, their fit is not tight | When you try to start the engine, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals. In this case, a crash may be heard under the hood. | Clean the contacts, lubricate them with petroleum jelly and tighten the terminals |
| Unreliable connection of electrical circuits of engine control and power supply systems | Check the connections of the connectors and the reliability of the contacts in the blocks. | Fix faulty wire connections |
| Increased resistance to rotation of the crankshaft (scores on the shafts, bearing shells, cylinder-piston parts, deformation of the shafts, frozen engine oil, jammed generator, jammed coolant pump) | The crankshaft turns slowly. If the engine is started in severe frost, and the engine was working properly the day before, then most likely the engine oil has frozen. If you hear extraneous noise when starting the engine, check the free rotation of the pump and generator pulleys. | Use the recommended engine oil. Repair the engine. Replace the pump and generator. |
| Malfunction in the ignition system | Check for spark. | Check the circuits and devices of the ignition system. Replace faulty system elements. |
| The high voltage wires are connected in the wrong order or the wire is disconnected | Inspect. | Connect the wires in the correct order |
| The timing belt is broken or the belt teeth are cut off | Open the front timing cover and check. | Replace timing belt |
| Disturbed valve timing | Check the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys. | Set the correct shaft position |
| Malfunction of the computer (brains), its circuits, crankshaft position sensor or coolant temperature | Check the supply of +12V to the ECU, the sensor circuit, and the absence of damage to the sensors themselves. | Replace ECU, sensors. |
| The idle air regulator (IAC) or its circuits are faulty | Check the idle air control. When starting the engine, lightly press the gas pedal. If the engine starts and stalls when you release the gas pedal, the sensor is faulty. | Replace sensor |
| The fuse is blown or the main relay of the control system is faulty | Check fuse and relay. | Eliminate the cause of the blown fuse. Replace fuse and relay |
| Fuse blown, fuel pump relay. Circuit, relay or pump is faulty. | When the ignition is turned on, there is no sound of the pump running. Check the fuse. Apply voltage to the pump from the battery. | Clean contacts, replace faulty circuits, replace fuse, pump and relay. |
| The fuel filter is dirty, the water in the fuel line is frozen, the fuel line is damaged | Check the pressure in the fuel rail and the condition of the fuel lines. | Replace the filter, blow out or replace the fuel lines. |
| Insufficient pressure in the fuel rail | Check the pressure in the fuel rail, the pump strainer and the condition of the fuel lines. | Clean the filter. Replace pump, fuel pressure regulator |
| Faulty injectors or their power supply circuits | Check the injector windings with an ohmmeter. Check the chains for breaks. | Replace injectors, replace chains |
| Air leak into the intake tract | Inspect the joints and fittings of the hoses and clamps. During start-up, turn off the vacuum brake booster and plug the receiver fitting. | Eliminate air leaks, replace vacuum booster |
One cylinder does not work when cold
What consequences?
When the engine “troubles” and shakes, it begins to wear out quickly.
Because of this, compression is reduced, creating conditions for the creation of scuffing on the cylinders and pistons. The motor begins to operate in a different temperature regime and begins to overheat. Sometimes it turns out that everything has been checked, but the engine still “troubles.” Therefore, we will try to analyze the diagnostic procedure point by point under normal conditions, when there are no special devices to look inside and accurately determine the cause.
Are the spark plugs to blame?
First, unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder and carefully inspect it. What will we see? If the engine is running correctly, the color of the side electrode and insulator will be light and slightly brown. This candle should work. If we see black carbon deposits, this is the reason why the engine may run unevenly. Fuel enrichment or oil addition is in progress.
Causes of soot:
- long-term operation at idle and in warm-up mode;
- reduced compression in the engine;
- violation of valve timing;
- improper operation of the injector (nozzles are clogged with dirt);
- incorrect operation of the oxygen sensor.
Carbon deposits can cause the spark plug to fail completely or function irregularly because it interferes with normal sparking. Let's take a look at the body. It should be white and there should be no vertical black stripes or dots on it. The presence of this indicates that the spark plug is breaking through and will not work normally.
If the visual inspection is satisfactory, then we will check the spark when cranking the starter. We insert the spark plug into the tip of the high-voltage wire, place it on the engine ground and, turning the engine over with the starter, see whether a spark jumps between the electrodes of the spark plug or not. If a good, rich blue spark jumps between the spark plug and the mass, everything is fine.
Inspection of high-voltage wires
If everything is in order with the spark plugs, then we will carefully examine each high-voltage wire separately. Some cars have individual ignition coils, which means we skip this point. First, let's inspect the tip of the wire inserted into the spark plug. It should be a single color and free of plaque on the inner surface and dots on the outside.
Lada Priora does not start when cold
- If the crankshaft rotates slowly, the battery may be discharged or the engine oil may be frozen.
- The vehicle's fuel system is faulty. The water in the ramp may have frozen.
- The coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH) of the engine management system is faulty.
- Fuel injectors are leaking.
- Low compression in cylinders.
- The engine control system is faulty. Run diagnostics.
Power plants and related problems
The main power unit installed on the Daewoo Matiz is a 0.8-liter, three-cylinder engine with a capacity of 51 or 52 hp. With. The motor operates with a characteristic chirping sound, but there is a defect or “sore”
This sound does not affect the driving performance of the car in any way.
It is recommended to change the timing belt on the engine after 50 thousand kilometers, but this regulation must be followed provided that the belt itself is original. Non-original parts of the gas distribution mechanism are not always of high quality, and this must be taken into account when repairing a car. Broken timing belt
this cannot be allowed on the Matiz; in the event of such a breakdown, the valves bend when they hit the pistons, and it becomes expensive to repair the engine.
On average, a 0.8 liter engine has a good service life, and during normal operation it can last 200-250 thousand km.
To extend the service life of the power unit, it is important to change the engine oil on time (every 10 thousand km) and prevent the internal combustion engine from overheating.
Weaknesses in electrical equipment
The weakest point in the Matiz electrics is the generator
, its characteristic malfunction is breakdown of the diode bridge. But the advantage here is that the entire unit is inexpensive, and repairs do not hit the pocket hard.
Spark plugs and fuel injectors do not tolerate Russian gasoline well
, therefore Matiz should be fueled only with high-quality fuel. The battery installed in the car is small; when starting the engine in cold weather, all consumers should be turned off so as not to drain the battery prematurely. The electrical wiring on the Matiz is not complicated, and problems with it rarely arise; the most typical defect here is blown fuses.
Gearbox and accessories
The main transmission installed on the first generation Daewoo Matiz is a manual gearbox; automatic transmissions were only paired with a liter 4-cylinder engine. Specific complaints about mechanics
Car owners don’t, except that the gears don’t always engage clearly.
The transmission oil should be changed approximately every 60 thousand kilometers; the same regulations should be followed for an automatic transmission. The clutch disc and basket on the Matiz are miniature
, however, with normal handling of the car, the clutch may require replacement no earlier than after 50-60 thousand km.
Interior, body and paintwork
There are plenty of crickets in the interior of the Daewoo Matiz, but you shouldn’t expect quality at the level of a Mercedes from a budget Korean car. The car body is susceptible to corrosion, almost everything rusts
body elements - fenders, door bottoms, wheel arches, sills, underbody, hood. To prevent the Matiz from rusting so quickly, it is necessary to carry out anti-corrosion treatment immediately after purchasing the car.
Chassis and suspension
The front suspension of the Matiz is MacPherson type, a torsion beam is installed on the rear axle. All parts of the chassis are as miniature as the car itself, so the levers bend
, shock absorbers, struts and stabilizer bushings quickly fail. The undoubted advantage of the suspension is that its parts are very inexpensive, including original spare parts.
Elements of the exhaust system do not last long on Matiz
, the muffler and resonator quickly rust, and there is no point in welding the cans - the iron is weak and not of very high quality.
In general, the Daewoo Matiz car is quite reliable; unexpected breakdowns rarely happen to it. If the car is used carefully, it will last a long time, but car owners need to remember that the car begins to break down quickly on a bad road, especially if you drive along it at a decent speed.
As soon as the first cold weather sets in, driving a car without a heater becomes uncomfortable. In addition to comfort, there are also safety issues, because if there is no heat in the cabin, the windows will be icy and the driver will not have a normal view, which can cause an accident.
What happens in cases when:
- the stove does not work at all;
- Cold or slightly warm air is blowing, despite the fact that the control on the panel is set to maximum.
No fluid in the system
The most common reason why the heater in a Daewoo Matiz does not work is insufficient level or lack of coolant. Initially, the cooling circuit is sealed, but it may well happen that one of the hoses or the expansion tank, which is made of plastic, cracks and antifreeze begins to leak.
It is recommended to check the coolant level before each trip using special notches with the Min and Max inscriptions on the tank. The lack of coolant can threaten not only that the stove will not work, but also such a major breakdown as an engine wedge, which will put the Matiz out of action for a long time.
Thermostat failure
If the coolant level is normal, but the stove still does not heat, then check the thermostat next. When starting the engine, the coolant first circulates through a small circuit so that the engine warms up quickly, which is especially important in cold weather. Further, when the temperature reaches the desired level, the valve opens and the liquid begins to circulate along a common circuit, from which the heat is taken into the cabin. This valve is called a thermostat. If it doesn't work and remains closed, then in Matiz. Since the thermostat is a mechanical device, it can simply get stuck in one of the positions. The problem is solved by replacing the thermostat. It is quite inexpensive for a Daewoo Matiz.
Airlock
When replacing coolant or adding to the expansion tank, this may occur. Its characteristic feature is that the stove seems to be working properly, but the air coming out of it is barely warm. There are several options for getting rid of an airlock. You can lift the front of the car on jacks or drive it onto a hill, unscrew the cap on the expansion tank and give it a good rev. The second way is to remove the clamp on the pipe, but remember to take precautions, as you can get severe burns. The best thing to do is simply go to the nearest service station.
Radiator or filters clogged
A large amount of dust, sand and dirt, insects, fluff, etc. accumulate on the radiator and cabin filter. This can cause the Matiz stove to heat poorly.
It's quite easy to check:
- start the car;
- Warm up the engine to operating temperature according to the dashboard. If everything works properly, then warm air should start flowing from the stove as soon as the coolant temperature reaches 50 °C;
- if the air is cold, carefully try the pipe entering the radiator with your hand; if it is hot, then.
If the Priora does not start well when hot
In this case, see the second table; in addition to the reasons described, also pay attention to:
- A pressure regulator that can discharge fuel through a membrane into the receiver.
- DPKV contacts, if the sensor has been changed, check that the poles are connected correctly.
- Faulty ignition module.
Let us remind you that in some cases the Priora does not start due to a faulty immobilizer or alarm system. In some cases, reflashing the engine ECU (electronic control unit) helps solve the problem of poor starting. And regular car maintenance will help eliminate problems of poor engine starting.
Keywords: Lada Priora engine | ignition system for Lada Priora | starter Lada Priora | power supply system for Lada Priora | ECM Lada Priora
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What causes the cylinder not to work?
The performance and dynamic characteristics of a car are determined by its main part – the engine. Therefore, you need to be very careful about all changes occurring in the unit. The cost of a mistake can lead to big problems. Not very often, but it happens that a cylinder does not work on a VAZ 2110 car. It is difficult for an inexperienced car owner to diagnose such faults. This phenomenon is called missing or, from technical translation, engine tripping. It can be detected by a clearly distinguishable uneven sound. The car begins to quickly lose power, the engine wears out catastrophically, and driving with such sounds is quite unpleasant. It is unlikely that an experienced driver will allow himself to continue driving in such cases. When gasoline enters a non-working cylinder, it does not burn, but remains on the cylinder walls and enters the engine crankcase:
- Motor oil, when mixed with fuel, dilutes, which deteriorates its quality, and after some time substandard oil will enter the engine lubrication system.
- The compression of the unit will begin to decrease, favorable conditions will be created for the formation of scuffing on the pistons, cylinder bores, on the planes of hydraulic compensators (see VAZ 2110: replacing hydraulic compensators on your own) and other rubbing surfaces of the engine.
- The unit will begin to operate in other temperature conditions and will slowly overheat, which is due to the ability of the oil, when its quality is normal, to remove heat from moving parts.
The result of a non-working cylinder is engine jamming. The same problems arise if two cylinders do not work on a VAZ 2110 car.
