Secrets of the “six”: what does the creaking in the front suspension area indicate?

A creaking sound in the front suspension when turning the steering wheel can cause a lot of concern about the condition of the car. Owners associate extraneous noise in vehicle components and assemblies with the approach of imminent repairs associated with significant material costs. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a squeak when driving, knocking in the engine compartment, in the transmission area, or any other part of the car. Do not panic about this and immediately go to a car service center. First, you need to perform a visual diagnosis of the node that is suspicious; it is quite possible that there is no cause for concern as such.

In this publication, we will consider the causes of knocking noises from the front suspension, since most motorists consider their occurrence to be a dangerous phenomenon (this should not be ruled out). Let's start analyzing everything in detail.

Is the squeak really that bad?

Drivers who consider the occurrence of extraneous noise in the suspension area to be a harbinger of a serious malfunction, in most cases, turn out to be right. In reality, provided that the unit is adjusted correctly, extraneous sounds should not appear at all. Note that the source of the squeak can be any element of the chassis, especially this phenomenon occurs due to the friction of parts at the points of their contact. Often, such problems occur on cars with high mileage. However, various types of noise can also occur in the components and assemblies of a new vehicle, which are the result of either improper operation or adjustment, or serious breakdown.

For example, when driving on a highway at a speed not exceeding 100 km/h, a creaking noise may occur in the front suspension when turning the steering wheel, and its character is different each time. Note that in this case, its appearance is not always characterized by the presence of damage, since in most cases the occurrence of extraneous noise from the front suspension is associated with the poor condition of the road surface, which causes an imbalance of its elements and they begin to “hum.” Most car owners mistakenly consider these sounds to be the source of serious problems.

Sound sources.

Despite the large number of components and elements of the car, we can safely say that in most cases the reason for the extraneous knock lies in:

• defect or wear of silent blocks, as well as levers.

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This, by the way, can lead to the car moving to the side while it is moving. Although similar consequences are possible if the springs malfunction, expressed in a decrease in their elasticity.

Be that as it may, the car moving to the side for one of these reasons can easily be eliminated by standard replacement of failed parts.

External manifestations of this malfunction may include prolonged rocking of the car after impacts on bumps and holes.

• muffler, which touches metal parts while driving, or wear on the attachment points of rods and rubber bushings.

In general, as you can see, knocking can cause various problems.

That is why, in order to timely identify faults, especially those that manifest themselves when hitting bumps, diagnostics should be carried out regularly.

What can squeak in the rear and front suspension?

There is no definite answer to this question, since any part, regardless of its condition, can produce various noises. The interaction of suspension elements with the vehicle body causes extraneous sounds that change depending on the trajectory of movement. Often, various noises are produced by CV joints, bearings, shock absorbers, springs and parts of the brake system.

Let's move on to analyzing the occurrence of noise in the suspension. First, you should pay attention to its levers. Due to the presence of any defects or damage to these parts, a sound of a different nature occurs. Very often silent blocks fail. This breakdown is also accompanied by the occurrence of oscillatory movements of the steering wheel. It would seem like an insignificant breakdown, but it can lead to tragic consequences, since it causes loss of vehicle controllability.

When carrying out visual diagnostics of suspension elements, it is necessary to pay attention to the tie rod ends, since they cause serious play in the steering wheel. Very often, a squeak in the front suspension is evidence of wear on the ball joints; in this case, their replacement is recommended. These elements regulate the rotation of the front wheelset and are subject to constant high loads, so they must always be in good condition. If they are not replaced in time, the car may become uncontrollable while driving.

If the outer CV joint is damaged on bumps and when entering a turn at medium speed, you can hear a distinct grinding noise, which may additionally be accompanied by a cracking sound. When inspecting it, it is worth paying attention to the condition of the rubber boots, which prevent dirt from penetrating into the mechanism, which significantly accelerates the wear of the hinge.

Despite the presence of many different elements in the suspension design, most often the source of external sounds is the shock absorber. The part loses its performance characteristics and begins to make noise for the following reasons:

• insufficient level of working fluid or gas;
• development of valves;
• piston wear;
• damage to seals, springs and rods.

A faulty shock absorber makes itself felt when driving on a poorly paved road, when the vehicle simply begins to roll from side to side. If such a problem is detected, it is necessary to immediately take measures to eliminate it, since further normal operation of a vehicle with damaged elements is out of the question.

An effective measure for detecting malfunctions of suspension components is periodic preventive inspections (at least 2 times a year).

Knocks and noises in the front suspension

Even an amateur can recognize extraneous noises that appear in his own car, because an unfamiliar sound is always clearly audible against the background of the familiar “ensemble.” Knocks and noises in the chassis of the car should not plunge the owner into a state of shock, because all components are repairable, but it is necessary to urgently diagnose and fix problems, since the condition of the suspension is not only driving comfort, but also road safety.

Knocks have a different nature and appear in different situations. The cause of such an unpleasant phenomenon may be a faulty stabilizer link or bushing, a failed ball joint or support bearing. Let us examine in detail the diagnostic methods and methods for troubleshooting the suspension of the Lada Vesta.

Judging by the reviews of car owners, Renault left Vesta a legacy of fairly rapid wear and tear of the silent blocks of the rear beam. They begin to bother you already at the third ten thousand kilometers. Another reason for knocking noises can be the destruction of the shock absorber support.

Diagnostics

Diagnosing a problem with a car's rear suspension is not easy, despite its simple design. The difficulty lies in the massiveness of the parts, so full diagnostics can only be carried out on a special lift.

Repair

To the delight of car enthusiasts, the rear suspension of the Lada Vesta has one advantage: it is easy to repair. You can even replace shock absorber mounts at home. But changing the silent blocks of a beam without a lift is very difficult. It is advisable to contact a car service center with such a problem.

The article does not reveal a step-by-step repair algorithm, but it answers the question of how you can diagnose the malfunction yourself. If you know the list of works, then the likelihood that the car service center will try to impose unnecessary work is reduced to zero, and this is a direct cost savings.

The design of the unit has changed noticeably. Even before repairing new Vests, technical centers had to be trained on the new model. The front suspension sits on a subframe, which was not seen on earlier VAZ models. As a result, the upper part above it (engine compartment, steering rack, etc.) received protection, and the lower part of the suspension received static fasteners.

The steering shaft is supplemented with an electric power steering, which transmits the turning forces of the steering wheel to the wheels. The rack transmits force to the rods, and they work with the hubs - they allow you to control the movement of the wheels under control. The hub is also pressed against the disc brake, controlling the uniformity of its contact with the wheel.

The suspension itself is independent; on the Lada Vesta, the front mechanism levers are L-shaped. The right and left front suspension arms operate independently of each other. The transverse stabilizer has undergone modifications, which gave the car greater maneuverability, as well as better cornering control. Its struts are more like a sports car, they smooth out the effect of such maneuvers at speed.

• beam with silent blocks;
• barrel springs;
• spring insulating gaskets;
• double-acting gas-filled shock absorbers;
• shock absorber mounting bushings;
• levers.

Photo rear beam

Any knocking noise in the car while driving is not only an irritating factor, but also a possible consequence of a malfunction that can have serious consequences. Especially the clatter of the front suspension, which includes the steering system, the most effective front brakes and is loaded with the weight of the engine.

The Lada Vesta is no exception, which also has front-wheel drive, which increases the importance of the front suspension serviceability factor. The VAZ sedan is no more susceptible to failure of front suspension elements than many other cars in this class, and maybe even less, but it still happens.

Therefore, we will consider common malfunctions of the front suspension of the Lada Vesta, which can cause knocking or squeaking when driving, methods for diagnosing and eliminating them.

We will build the review according to the principle “from simple to complex,” while simultaneously considering problems in the direction of reducing the degree of probability.

The causes of knocking or creaking from the front suspension, characteristic of the Lada Vesta, were listed above. But, besides them, there are a number of malfunctions that are common to all brands of cars, but appear after different mileage. This is wear of ball joints, silent blocks, steering rods, failure of shock absorbers, play in CV joints.

The elimination of these problems is carried out not in a recommendatory, but in a mandatory manner, because knocking and crunching in the front suspension of the Lada Vesta are only in the last place factors of discomfort; first of all, it is a consequence of malfunctions, a delay in eliminating which can have tragic consequences.

Diagnostics

Repair

Extraneous noise in the suspension may indicate a breakdown of one of its components. But how can you determine which part needs replacement or repair? Below we will look at the most common causes of knocking when driving over uneven surfaces, methods for diagnosing them and options for eliminating them.

Very often the problem is wear of the silent blocks of the levers. As a result of their wear, the system begins to “play” and knock. At the same time, the car’s controllability deteriorates, and accordingly, traffic safety is greatly reduced. To troubleshoot silent blocks, you will need a jack and a pry bar.

First of all, you need to jack up the wheel to hang it completely. Then use the pry bar as a lever, applying load to the suspension arms in different directions, i.e. shaking them from side to side. If play with a dull tapping sound is detected, then your diagnosis is correct. In the same way, you need to check the levers of the second wheel.

As a rule, parts wear out evenly. Therefore, if you find problems on one side, there are probably problems on the other side to a greater or lesser extent. To fix the problem, you just need to replace the silent blocks (rubber-metal hinges). The diagram above shows a front suspension arm with silent blocks on a Lada Vesta.

Often, car enthusiasts blame the shock absorber strut for the knocking sound, while the real cause is a malfunction in the steering system. Moreover, knocking in the steering can occur for various reasons:

• wear of the steering rack tips. This problem usually occurs when driving on small bumps and gravel roads. In addition, a knock occurs when the steering wheel begins to rotate left or right, and there is slight play in the steering wheel. The problem can only be solved by replacing the tips;
• gap between gear and rack. Such a malfunction may be accompanied by vibration in the steering wheel. If the parts are not worn out much, you can correct the situation by tightening the steering rack to the gear;
• wear of steering rod bushings. Diagnostics is carried out using a pry bar, with its help you need to shake the levers in different directions, which will allow you to determine the play. The problem is eliminated by replacing the rubber bushings. The photo below shows the dismantling of the steering rod on a Ford Focus 2.

If you hear a dull knock on the left or right when driving over potholes, bumps and other uneven surfaces, the cause may be wear on the shock absorber strut support. It is a rubber damper gasket through which the load from the shock absorber is transferred to the body. Over time, the rubber wears out and loses its elasticity, which leads to knocking noises.

To make sure that the diagnosis is correct, you need to measure the gap between the support and the stop plate. It should be within 8-10 mm. If the gap is increased, the support must be changed. It must be said that access to the support is usually difficult. To dismantle it, you need to release the upper part of the shock absorber, as, for example, on a VAZ Kalina car (below in the photo).

Sometimes the struts in the car knock, i.e. shock absorbers. Knocks usually appear when driving over bumps, as well as when entering a turn, when the load falls on a damaged shock absorber. Since shock absorbers rarely fail in pairs, the knocking noise occurs only on one side.

If the body swings up/down for some time, then the shock absorber needs to be replaced.

Another reason for knocking is wear of the support bearing. This malfunction can be identified by a louder sound that is heard when driving on a straight road. When turning, the sound disappears, but vibration may be felt in the steering wheel.

In some cars, such as Renault Logan, the bearing is located close to the hood, so the fault can be determined even when the car is stationary. To do this, you just need to open the hood, start rocking the car from side to side and listen to the support.

If you hear crunching and knocking noises, then the problem is in the bearing.

The cause of knocks and squeaks is often wear and tear on the ball joints. This is a very important part in the form of a hinge that connects the wheel hub to the suspension arm.

True, ball joints usually knock only on rear-wheel drive cars with a simple suspension. On front-wheel drive vehicles, the malfunction manifests itself in the form of a squeaking sound.

The exception is cases when wear reaches a critical value, i.e. the hinge begins to simply dangle in the body.

Worn ball joint of the suspension arm

Troubleshooting Techniques

The rubber creaking of the suspension while driving indicates damage to various oil seals, anthers and protective covers. These parts are not repairable, so only replacing them can save the situation. When inspecting the vehicle's chassis, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of mechanical damage and the degree of natural wear of all rubber elements.

Diagnostics of shock absorbers

The problematic components of the suspension are shock absorbers, which quickly fail due to the unsatisfactory condition of the roads. A properly functioning part should not have any oil leaks, and when the vehicle rocks, the shock absorber should dampen vibrations. Note that these signs appear first, in contrast to third-party noises when the car rocks, and are direct evidence of the failure of the shock absorbers. In this condition, the mechanism can still work for some time, but it is better to replace it immediately.

You can check the shock absorber like this:

1. Remove the part from the car and inspect the condition of its upper and lower fasteners.
2. Place the shock absorber in a vertical position.
3. The performance of a shock absorber can be assessed by acting on its rod. If the resistance when moving the rod down is significantly less than when it moves up, then the mechanism is working properly.
4. Free movement of the rod can be caused either by the penetration of air into the part or by a loss of liquid or gas level. In this case, oil leaks are clearly visible on the shock absorber body.

You can slightly extend the life of the shock absorber by replenishing the level of working fluid in it. However, such a measure will only have an effect if its body is intact. In addition, you can replace worn out parts of the mechanism.

Checking the condition of the springs

Sagging springs also negatively affects the performance of the suspension. This is caused by their natural wear due to the aging of the metal. To verify this, you do not need to carry out complex diagnostics. You just need to walk around the car and pay attention to its position. If the springs do not perform their function, the vehicle's ground clearance will be significantly reduced. Please note that camber adjustment cannot be performed on a vehicle with sagging springs.

Conclusions that suggest themselves

As you can see, there are plenty of reasons for the occurrence of third-party noise in the front suspension area. However, most of them do not pose any danger to the further operation of the vehicle. Despite this, experienced auto mechanics advise carrying out a full diagnosis of all elements of the chassis when noise occurs in the suspension area, because only during this process can the condition of all component components be fully assessed.

Restoring the front suspension is not difficult, so any car owner can independently carry out repair work, during which damaged parts will be replaced.

There may be various noises, vibrations, knocking, creaking, grinding sounds in the front of the car. For example... The front wheel bearings are making knocking and/or noise. The knocking noise occurs from excessive play in the bearings, and the noise is due to wear on the raceway of the cages and bearing rollers. Diagnostics can be carried out on a level platform, inspection ditch or lift. Test No. 1. Raise the left side of the car with a jack (or a standard one) (for safety, place a stand under the car). Spin the wheel sharply by hand. It should turn without making a noise, which is similar to the noise of a large metal ball rolling on a flat metal surface. If such a sound is present, then it means that the raceways of the cages and bearing rollers are worn out. In this case, the bearings must be replaced. Test No. 2. With your left hand, grasp the upper inner part of the wheel, and with your right hand, the lower outer part. Rock the wheel until it breaks. If the wheel does not wobble and there are no extraneous knocks, then everything is OK. If it is loose, eliminate the play in the hub bearing.

Ball joints are making knocking and/or squeaking noises. These sounds are clearly audible when driving over bumps and on uneven roads. Carry out diagnostics on a flat area, overpass or inspection ditch, but under no circumstances on a lift. Otherwise, the suspension will be loaded, and you will not be able to determine the malfunction of the ball joints. It is more convenient to work together. To identify the problem, lift the vehicle by the lower arm using a hydraulic or screw jack. If such a jack is not available, then you can use a standard one. Lift the car with it, and then place a wooden block under the lower arm and lower the car onto it. With your left hand, grasp the upper inner part of the wheel, and with your right hand, the lower outer part. Rock the wheel until it breaks. The second person, placing his hand alternately on the upper and lower parts of the steering knuckle at the attachment points of the ball joints, must determine which of them has play. Replace the faulty support. Sometimes play occurs in two supports at once. Check the ball joints on the other side in the same way. Very often you can hear a squeaking sound when the car is rocked by the front fender or bumper. It is the ball joints that creak due to the lack of lubrication between the support ball and the Teflon bushing. Such a support does not yet pose a danger, but know that it will soon require replacement.

Steering gear. Due to wear of the main worm-roller pair, a knocking noise occurs. When you turn the steering wheel in different directions, you sometimes hear a creaking sound. Carry out diagnostics on a flat area, overpass or inspection ditch, but under no circumstances on a lift. Otherwise, the steering will be loaded and you will not be able to determine the problem. With your hand, grab the bipod of the steering gear and swing it up and down. If there is play and/or knocking, eliminate it with the adjusting screw.

The squeak can be eliminated with liquid WD-40 or silicone grease. Spray it on the steering shaft where it exits the engine compartment.

The pendulum does not make any unpleasant sounds to the ear, unless it is completely launched. It wears out the pair of pendulum bushings and the lever axis. The pendulum is checked in the same way as the steering gear. If you find any play, tighten the adjusting nut or replace the bushings or the entire lever assembly.

Steering rods and ends have a similar knocking noise, like that of ball joints, and it only appears on rough roads. To determine a fault in the steering rods and ends, you must be completely sure that the bipods of the steering gearbox and pendulum have no play. Place your hand closer to the tie rod end (side or middle). Rock it up and down. The ball pin in the hinge body is spring-loaded, and therefore if a certain force is applied to it, it can move. But at the same time it should not dangle freely. If there is play, replace the ball joint with a new one.

The reason for the creaking is in the suspension when driving over uneven surfaces.

Speed ​​bumps are installed for security purposes in large cities, especially near schools and hospitals. They have a specific role: to force the driver to reduce speed on this section of the road.

It is clear that such an obstacle brings a lot of inconvenience to the driver. You have to slow down the car. Although in this case complaints are not appropriate, because we are talking about the safety of all road users, including pedestrians. Drivers often complain that when passing a speed bump, a creaking sound appears in the suspension, which soon disappears.

It has been noticed that complaints about the creaking of the front suspension most often arise:

1. When t 0 decreases during cold weather and in winter. Most likely, the reason for the creaking may lie in the rubber bands of the silent block. In the cold they become oak (hard), and when overcoming an obstacle, a vibration shock occurs, producing a creaking sound.
2. After the rain. Everything is simple here too. Perhaps moisture has gotten into the rubber seals. When driving on an uneven surface, a creaking noise appears that irritates every warrior.

The algorithm is very simple: you need to lubricate all parts with a special lubricant, such as silicone spray. We are talking about the rubber bands of the silent block. To identify creaking places in the suspension, you should alternately apply the spray to the hinges and elastic connections.

The possibility of more serious malfunction factors should not be discounted. The problems will be discussed below.

When passing a speed bump, a creaking noise occurs in the suspension. This may be related:

1. As we have already noted, with silent blocks.
2. Creaking and grinding noises in the suspension can be associated with the car's shock absorbers.
3. With problems with tie rod ends.
4. With ball joint.
5. Various rubber seals.
6. Or with a rotating fist.
7. Perhaps the creaking of the chassis on bumps appears when the fastening bolts are loosened.
8. There were problems with the front suspension arm.
9. Or with a stabilizer bar.

Defects of Lada

Lada Vesta has recently rolled off the assembly line and not all warranty workshops have experience in solving problems on how to eliminate knocking noises that occur in the suspension. The manufacturer constantly maintains contact with the service station and makes changes to the design. Let's consider possible malfunctions and methods for eliminating them in the front suspension of the Lada.

Car enthusiasts may be disappointed by a new car almost immediately. An unpleasant creaking and knocking sound appears when passing speed bumps. Upon analysis, it turned out that the problem was in the stabilizer bar bushings.

It is not recommended to lubricate them with grease; they will stop squeaking, but for a very short period of time, so they only need to be changed. They can be replaced with polyurethane ones from Niva Chevrolet. The bushing has catalog number 17012680. After replacement, the squeaking sound disappears.

You should know that these are not all problems; a characteristic knocking sound may occur from the front right.

This is typical when there is increased play in the right ball joint. Replacement is carried out together with the suspension arms assemblies. AvtoVAZ supplies them complete with a ball joint.

Front suspension of Lada Vesta

The main defects that occur in the front part of the Vesta car, which may cause the car to creak or rattle:

• Grinding noise in the anti-roll bar;
• The right ball joint is faulty, it starts knocking;
• The stabilizer links begin to rattle.

It is recommended that all these defects be repaired at AvtoVAZ dealerships.

When driving on an uneven road, you hear a dull knock on small bumps or a sound reminiscent of rubber friction. This problem can be eliminated by lubricating the Vesta muffler mounting with grease. Vesta's front suspension creaking may be due to worn struts.

To eliminate the defect, you just need to replace them with new ones, the problems with the suspension will be solved.

Check the suspension yourself.

You can check the condition of the shock absorber by pressing on the front of the car and suddenly releasing your hands. The knot should smoothly fall into place.

It is easy to check the operation of the controls. It is enough to let go of the steering wheel for a while on a straight section of the road. If the car pulls to the side, perhaps the reason lies in the steering tip or is related to the fastening of the ball joints. Diagnostics of ball joints will be required. With this method of checking, you need to listen to knocks in the suspension. You can find out where the noise is coming from by driving the car into a pit and rocking it with a partner.

Initially, check for creaking in the rear suspension. Since the configuration of this unit is not as complex as the front part. This procedure will not take much time. If necessary, check:

1. Shock absorbers.
2. Muffler.
3. Jet thrusts.
4. And rubber seals.

Particular attention should be paid to fastening the exhaust pipe. It is necessary to bleed the muffler from side to side. Check its condition. The inspection is carried out on an inspection pit or lift. When checking ball joints, a jack is sufficient. A thorough check will help identify not only creaks in the rear suspension, but also other hidden defects. We will carry out an inspection and, having identified a malfunction, all that remains is to carry out repairs.

However, the above methods are not entirely effective. The most accurate diagnosis can be made by service center specialists.

• Diagnostics at a service station.

Long-term practice of experienced craftsmen allows us to identify the problem in a short time during suspension diagnostics. For this purpose, both visual inspection and special diagnostic devices are used.

Wear of the hinge, the presence of play in the car - these are the main causes of squeaking in the chassis, as practice has shown. And of course, all the rubber seals. They can also make an unpleasant sound (this has been discussed before).

It is advisable to contact already verified service stations. You can use a search engine and look at reviews on the Internet or ask your friends for help.

During maintenance, experts recommend using original parts and spare parts. This will extend the service life and postpone possible repairs for a long time. Installing analogues on the contrary will speed up the repair and solve the problem of creaking when moving a speed bump for a short period.

The vehicle suspension system is a constant headache for every driver. Creaking, grinding and extraneous noise from the unit are constant companions. The fact is that this is where the lion's share of the mechanisms and parts of the car's controls and mechanisms is concentrated.

Today the question will not concern general issues related to vehicle suspension. The material is devoted to a single problem - creaking in the suspension when driving over a speed bump. We will look at the reasons for this phenomenon and methods of “technical treatment” of the car. But before that, let’s remember what a car’s suspension system is in general terms.

For what reasons can the rear suspension “knock”?

A relatively small number of mechanisms makes it possible to diagnose the rear suspension faster than the front. However, faster does not mean inattentive. Typical rear suspension design. — Guide structure. With the help of lower and upper reaction rods, the rear axle beam is connected to the car body. The rods are fastened using rubber-metal hinges and fastening bolts. The rods also vary in size. — Elastic parts of the rear suspension are compression buffers and coil springs. — The damping mechanism of the rear suspension is shock absorbers. There are many different types of shock absorbers. — Fastening components – rubber bushings, cups, fastening brackets, etc.

There are quite a few elements in the rear suspension that can make knocking or squeaking noises. If this type of noise occurs, take a moment and check the rear suspension of your car yourself.

The rear suspension can creak or knock due to the usual negligence of car service workers who installed the protection, for example, and did it incorrectly. In turn, self-diagnosis will save you from the need to go to a car service center, and, therefore, save your budget.

A few words about the suspension

The suspension system is a technically complex unit connecting the supporting structure of the car and the road surface. While the car is moving, the suspension takes on most of the load. This refers to road unevenness:

The vehicle suspension plays the role of a “mediator” or stabilizer of large physical forces in different vectors.

Where are IDNs (artificial road humps) most often installed?

A speed bump is installed to force a reduction in the speed limit in crowded places when crossing the roadway, namely:

1. In parking lots.
2. Near clinics and hospitals.
3. School
4. Kindergartens.
5. Near pedestrian zones.
6. In the courtyards.
7. And also on roads with heavy vehicle traffic. Including freight and public transport.
8. IDNs are often installed on roads where heavy traffic of passenger cars predominates.
9. In parking lots, in front of supermarkets, and so on.

When installing a speed bump, responsible enterprises are required to install a special sign.