Replacement of Renault Logan front strut support and bearing at an affordable price in St. Petersburg

A hub, if we talk about it in general terms, is a particle of various kinds of parts, located in the center of the structure and having a special hole in it, designed to create a movable connection between the part and the shaft. In addition, this device can provide attachment to the shaft surface, such as a pulley, flywheel, geared movable linkage options, etc. The hole itself may have a number of features that serve as additional fastening for the movable connection (slotted profile or hole for a locking key). In the absence of such fastenings, the hub is usually secured using plugs, which are carefully pressed between the shaft and the part. In other cases, rolling bearings are used for this purpose.

Front wheel hub with mounting bearing

It is these bearings that are used in cars as a mount for a hub mounted on an axle shaft. The hub itself is usually a rounded part located on top of the movable connection with the shaft and having twice the diameter of the bearing part. If reliable protection against distortion of this part is necessary, its length must be at least equal to the length of the hole itself in the hub. These dimensions will serve as a guarantee of strength and reliability. In addition, you should take into account the front wheel hub bearing used in the part, the model and strength of which must change in connection with the tasks at hand.

Recommendations for choosing replacement racks

How to choose struts for a Renault Logan is a question exclusively for every car owner. We have already mentioned that factory parts have a much longer service life, but are also more expensive. The most popular manufacturer brands are listed below:

• TRW, Monroe, Boge, SACHS are not the cheapest options. They have high strength characteristics, so they can be recommended as an analogue to “original” racks.
• Kayaba, Optimal – parts from the “economy” segment. They are a completely acceptable option for people who want to save on repairs here and now. Kayaba stands are some of the most popular on the market in this price range.

How much do the front struts cost on a Renault Logan? Prices start at 2 thousand rubles, reaching 11 thousand rubles. The most expensive ones are original racks or analogues close to them in quality. If your budget allows you to fork out, then take it without thinking. Reliable A-pillars are the key to safe and comfortable driving on Russian roads. If you're looking to save a few thousand, consider racks from Kayaba. So, a set of two pieces will cost you up to 4 thousand rubles, which is already two and a half times cheaper than buying the original product.

How to determine if a car hub is broken

Like any part in a vehicle, the front wheel hub wears out over time and can break. Since this device is an important part of the power devices of the machine, it requires good supervision, as well as timely repairs. It is quite easy to determine if a hub is broken, since if problems arise with it, the car begins to vibrate intensely when driving, producing a dull and unpleasant noise from under the front wheels of the car. Often the reason for this behavior of the car is the front wheel hub bearing, which is either not adjusted or is completely broken. In addition, there is another sign of a malfunction - too rapid wear of the tires on the front wheels.

How to replace the support bearing of a Renault Logan car and video of work processes

As practice shows, in most cases, when a faulty OP is detected on one side, parts on both sides are changed. They explain this by pure rationality - so as not to dirty their hands twice.

Preparatory moments

In some videos on replacing a faulty support bearing on a Renault Logan, technicians tell you what tools are needed for the job:

• Jack.
• Balloon wrench.
• Open-end wrench “13”.
• Key with 18mm head.
• Special tie for springs.
• Hex key “6”.

Work algorithm

The volume of work performed is, of course, greater than when changing antifreeze on a Renault Logan, but it is still within the capabilities of almost any car enthusiast. It is enough to adhere to the proposed algorithm and not rush.

When starting the procedure, the car should be securely secured using boots and a hand brake. The further process is performed in the following sequence:

• Using a wheelbrace, loosen the wheel mounting bolts on the work side.
• Install the jack and raise the car.
• Completely unscrew the bolts securing the wheel and remove it.
• The stage is carried out on a spar. Using a 6mm hex key, hold the shock absorber rod from turning and slightly loosen the nut securing the strut to the cushion.
• Disconnect the brake caliper without disconnecting the hose and move it to the side.
• Using a 18mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the strut to the steering knuckle.

In some videos on replacing the support bearing of a Renault Logan car, you can see that the craftsmen do without special spring ties. At the very beginning of the process, they unscrew the shock absorber rod nut while the wheel is still in place. However, to perform such a technique, you must have some experience in repairing the chassis of a car. After changing the part, wheel alignment should be checked and adjusted.

Which OPs are suitable for Renault Logan?

The manufacturer installs bearings with the original article number 60 01 547 499 on its cars. On Logan models, the use of analogues is acceptable:

• Febi 10089.
• Kayaba MB1504.
• Lemforder 31407 01.
• Sacis 4005300.
• Monroe L25908.

Self-check of the wheel bearing

If you need to independently check the hub and determine which side is broken, then you should take a test drive of the car. While driving, it is necessary not to gain high speed; the minimum speed will be enough. When driving, and especially when turning, you should pay attention to the sounds that your car will produce. An unhealthy knocking or grinding sound, friction, as well as strong vibrations are the main signs of a malfunction of the hub bearing located on the shaft. If the above sounds are heard while you turn right, then the left hub needs to be repaired, and if you find this problem when turning left, then the problem lies in the right bearing.

Front struts on Logan: design features and purpose

Front shock absorbers on Renault Logan perform several functions, the main one of which is damping vertical vibrations.
If you have driven a car with faulty A-pillars, you should understand what we are talking about. Without shock absorbers, the car will rock up and down even at minimum speed. There is a very simple and accessible way to determine the performance of this element: press the weight of your body on the body in the hood area. If the car does not immediately return to its original position, then the problem is faulty shock absorbers. If you suspect that the shock absorbers are out of order, pay attention to the rod. If oil is pouring out of it, then this is a clear sign that the front struts of the car need to be replaced.

As for performance characteristics, it will be possible to travel up to 120 thousand km on factory racks. Subject to a careful driving style and acceptable road quality, this period will increase to 150 thousand km. Another important factor that affects the service life is the manufacturer. Of course, Lemforder or other spare parts installed from the factory will perform much better than cheap analogues. Here it’s up to you to decide: either pay more, but drive twice as far before the next replacement, or save money and change the struts after 55-65 thousand km.

Causes of malfunctioning front wheel hub

In addition to natural wear and tear, the front wheel hub may malfunction due to a knocked down or poorly adjusted bearing. In addition, the bearing itself may become clogged or burst, or go downhill. It is precisely such defects that, as a rule, lead to problems with this part.

If you find any signs of failure in your car, then replacing the front wheel bearing is not the best or only correct option. You shouldn’t immediately take your car in for an expensive replacement of parts, as there is a possibility that the bearings have simply gone out of standard adjustment, which causes vibration and “unhealthy” sounds. In this case, if you wish and have the necessary tools, you can adjust the hub yourself.

Types of breakdowns and malfunctions

If you hear a knock in the front struts on a Renault Logan, then you should carry out the most thorough inspection. In fact, there could be many reasons. Here are the main elements that are susceptible to failure in the front chassis area:

• Support stand - a visual inspection is sufficient. To perform this procedure, you must open the hood and inspect the thrust cup for mechanical chips and gaps. If the latter exceeds 10 mm, then the rack needs to be replaced.
• Front shock absorber struts. Malfunctions manifest themselves as dull knocks, noises and squeaks while the car is moving. Press your weight onto the car body in the hood area. If it immediately returns to its original position, then everything is fine.
• Front stabilizer bars. To check the functionality of this element of the assembly, you should provide a load on the car, and then rock it. Visually inspect the cup and its movement around the lever. If the movement seems unnatural to you, and strange sounds are heard during the move, then the problem is in the stabilizer struts.
• Silent blocks are another weak point of shock absorbers on Renault Logan. These elements are located in the suspension arms, and their suitability can be determined using an ordinary mount. To do this, ensure horizontal and vertical rotation along the lever. If there are gaps, and the rubber around is very worn, then the silent blocks definitely need to be changed. It is important to understand that for Renault Logan it is necessary to replace and disassemble the silent blocks on the removed element.
• The ball joint is the final element of the assembly. Diagnostics for this element is similar to inspection of the silent block. Remove the element, and then use a tool to ensure translational movements vertically and horizontally.

The appearance of malfunctions in the above-described components of the assembly is a clear sign that the front suspension has been damaged. What to do in this case and how to identify the breakdown will be discussed in the next paragraph of this article.

Tools and preparatory work before adjusting the wheel bearings

If your plans include adjusting bearings, then you need to stock up on a minimum set of tools that will allow you to carry out this kind of work. The front wheel hub, the price of which is quite considerable, is a rather complex “patient” in design, but it will not require any special or expensive devices for repair. For minimal adjustment of the hub, you need a regular set of wrenches of different sizes, from 8 to 32. In addition, there is a need for strong screwdrivers designed for installation work. For knocking and setting, as well as the adjustment itself, you will need a hammer and chisel. To raise the wheels of the car you need to use a jack. Replacing the front wheel bearing is a better option than completely replacing parts, which is more costly and labor intensive.

Some recommendations

1. Using ties, the spring must be tightened evenly, turning the tetrahedron of the device alternately on one side or the other.
2. You cannot tighten the spring too much; as soon as it begins to rotate freely between the supports, the tightening should be stopped.
3. In no case should you use wire instead of zip ties; if the homemade device fails and bursts, injury cannot be avoided.
4. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better not to tempt fate; you should entrust the work to professionals.

Related articles:

• Technical characteristics and equipment of Renault Logan: reviews from car owners In this article we will look at the design features of the model, equipment, technical characteristics, we will also find out how much the new Logan can cost in car dealerships, get acquainted with reviews […]
• Features of replacing the Renault Logan CV joint The Renault Logan CV joint allows you to transmit torque at large angles with minimal power loss. Over time, cracking and clicking noises appear in faulty drives, and if not addressed […]
• Renault Logan timing belt: price, do-it-yourself replacement. 1.6, 1.4, 8 valves On all RENAULT engines, the gas distribution mechanism has a belt drive; according to factory conditions, it is recommended to change the timing belt every 60 thousand kilometers […]

Adjusting the front wheel hub bearing without involving auto mechanics

The following describes the work on setting up the hub and bearing in a car. You must adhere to the proposed plan and exercise caution.

1. Using a jack, lift the part of the car where the unhealthy sound or strong vibration was coming from.
2. Dismantle the wheel by removing it from the support shaft.
3. Next you will come across a special cap, under which the hub is located. It serves to protect the bearing from external negative factors. The spruce can be easily removed using a chisel and hammer.
4. Next you will need to remount the previously removed wheel. In this case, it is necessary to leave access to the bearing open and not to put on a protective cap. The wheel must be firmly installed. To do this, it is bolted diametrically. Fastening should be carried out carefully and, having fixed the first bolt, fasten the second opposite it. This way you need to tighten all the bolts. This will allow you to accurately and evenly secure the wheel to the shaft.
5. Next, you need to straighten the collar located on the hub nut, after which you will have the opportunity to dismantle the nut, which is what you need to do. You need to unscrew it using a socket wrench with a fairly large nozzle - “27”. This nut is often the problem with a misaligned bearing.
6. Afterwards you need to install a new nut for adjustment. You need to tighten it with a force of approximately 20 kg per cm. When tightening, do not forget that you need to rotate the wheel in two directions vertically, which will create a slight play, which is necessary for calibrating the bearing.
7. Next, you need to loosen the nut on the thread again, and then tighten it with less force, equal to only 0.7 kg per centimeter.
8. After the work has been done, it is necessary to lower the adjusting nut a certain distance. Usually it is 25 degrees. After loosening, you will need to rock the wheel again, which will result in a slight play. But everything is planned, there is no need to be afraid.
9. After all the work has been done, the nut is secured in the resulting position. To do this, it is necessary to bend the fastening collar into a special groove, which can be seen at the ends of the axle. The axle itself is located on the steering knuckle and is quite easy to locate.
10. Afterwards, you should remove the wheel again, put the cap in its original place for protection and complete all the work by fastening the wheel in place.

It makes noise and knocks. Diagnosis of faults based on noises and knocks.

Introduction.

Sounds from the front of the car.

Sounds from the rear of the car.

Transmission sounds.

Sounds from the engine compartment.

Introduction

Various extraneous sounds in the car are an alarm signal and serve as a reason to once again pay attention to its technical condition. A knock is a backlash formed in any unit. It often occurs from natural wear and tear of this unit. The noise comes from rubbing parts. The noises and knocks are very similar to each other. In addition, very often they add up, for example, the ball joints are faulty and there is play in the front hub bearings or steering tips. How can I find out exactly which unit this knocking/noise is coming from?

To determine the location of the noise and/or knocking, you must first determine which side it is coming from, front or rear, left or right. If you have already established the approximate location of the noise, then finding it will be much easier. Observations will also help: what the sound is synchronized with and under what conditions it occurs.

At the same time, look at the remaining paragraphs - perhaps you attributed the observed sound to the wrong section from where it is heard. This is due to the fact that some vehicle systems are extended (for example, the exhaust tract). In addition, sound travels well through metal and can be heard from places other than where it originates.

Sounds from the front of the car

The front wheel bearings are making knocking and/or noise. The knocking noise occurs from excessive play in the bearings, and the noise is due to wear on the raceway of the cages and bearing rollers.

Diagnostics can be carried out on a level platform, inspection ditch or lift.

Test No. 1. Raise the left side of the car with a jack (or a standard one) (for safety, place a stand under the car). Spin the wheel sharply by hand. It should turn without making a noise, which is similar to the noise of a large metal ball rolling on a flat metal surface. If such a sound is present, then it means that the raceways of the cages and bearing rollers are worn out. In this case, the bearings must be replaced.

Test No. 2. With your left hand, grasp the upper inner part of the wheel, and with your right hand, the lower outer part. Rock the wheel until it breaks. If the wheel does not wobble and there are no extraneous knocks, then everything is OK. If it is loose, eliminate the play in the hub bearing.

Ball joints are making knocking and/or squeaking noises. These sounds are clearly audible when driving over bumps and on uneven roads.

Carry out diagnostics on a flat area, overpass or inspection ditch, but under no circumstances on a lift. Otherwise, the suspension will be loaded, and you will not be able to determine the malfunction of the ball joints. It is more convenient to work together.

To identify the problem, lift the vehicle by the lower arm using a hydraulic or screw jack. If such a jack is not available, then you can use a standard one. Lift the car with it, and then place a wooden block under the lower arm and lower the car onto it. With your left hand, grasp the upper inner part of the wheel, and with your right hand, the lower outer part. Rock the wheel until it breaks. The second person, placing his hand alternately on the upper and lower parts of the steering knuckle at the attachment points of the ball joints, must determine which of them has play. Replace the faulty support. Sometimes play occurs in two supports at once.

Check the ball joints on the other side in the same way.

Very often you can hear a squeaking sound when the car is rocked by the front fender or bumper. It is the ball joints that creak due to the lack of lubrication between the support ball and the Teflon bushing. Such a support does not yet pose a danger, but know that it will soon require replacement.

Steering gear. Due to wear of the main worm-roller pair, a knocking noise occurs. When you turn the steering wheel in different directions, you sometimes hear a creaking sound.

Carry out diagnostics on a flat area, overpass or inspection ditch, but under no circumstances on a lift. Otherwise, the steering will be loaded and you will not be able to determine the problem. With your hand, grab the bipod of the steering gear and swing it up and down. If there is play and/or knocking, eliminate it with the adjusting screw.

The squeak can be eliminated with WD-40 liquid lubricant. Spray it on the steering shaft where it exits the engine compartment.

The pendulum does not make any unpleasant sounds to the ear, unless it is completely launched. It wears out the pair of pendulum bushings and the lever axis. The pendulum is checked in the same way as the steering gear. If you find any play, tighten the adjusting nut or replace the bushings or the entire lever assembly.

Steering rods and ends have a similar knocking noise, like that of ball joints, and it only appears on rough roads.

To determine a fault in the steering rods and ends, you must be completely sure that the bipods of the steering gearbox and pendulum have no play.

Place your hand closer to the tie rod end (side or middle). Rock it up and down. The ball pin in the hinge body is spring-loaded, and therefore if a certain force is applied to it, it can move. But at the same time it should not dangle freely. If there is play, replace the ball joint with a new one.

Shock absorbers usually do not bother you with their “sounds”. But if they are, then they can be clearly heard on uneven roads.

Their disease is wear of rubber bushings, cushions, oil leakage, and improper installation. Rock each side of the car and listen for knocking noises. At the same time, you must be sure that everything mentioned above is in perfect order. Inspect the shock absorbers. Grasp the top and bottom of the shock absorber with your hand alternately and rock it. You can immediately detect wear of bushings, cushions and improper installation - the shock absorber will move freely or almost freely. If the bushings are worn, replace them. If the installation is incorrect, tighten the shock absorber mounting bolts and nuts.

Oil leakage from the shock absorber is detected visually - smudges and adhering dirt in these places will be visible on the body. This shock absorber needs to be replaced. Let me remind you that shock absorbers can only be changed in pairs: right and left, but the front and rear pairs can be changed separately.

The brake pads sometimes whistle. As you gain speed, the whistling turns into a monotonous whistling, and may subsequently disappear. When you press the brake pedal, you hear a grinding noise.

If you suspect that the nasty squeaking noise when accelerating comes from the pads, then lightly press the brake pedal. If the sound disappears, change the pads.

If you hear a grinding noise after pressing the brake pedal, and an exclamation mark lights up on the dashboard, you urgently need to replace the pads, and possibly the brake discs if you have been driving with such grinding noise for a long time.

Springs< can make the sound of metal parts of the car rubbing against each other. It only occurs on bumps.

The spring may creak after replacement and/or removal and installation due to the fact that it was not placed exactly in its original place. There is only one way out - to install it correctly, turning it exactly to its original place. To do this you will have to disassemble the suspension again.

The anti-roll bar makes a dull knock, which is very hard to hear on rough roads. You can spot it on the overpass.

Grasp the stabilizer with your hand near each bushing in turn and rock it up and down. If the side bushings are worn out, you can change only them; if the middle ones, you need to change the entire stabilizer (complete with bushings). The bushings wear out after a mileage of about 60 thousand km.

A specific ringing tinny sound occurs due to the fact that the exhaust pipe of the muffler hits the stabilizer bar. Sound appears on bumps. The surface of the pipe at the point of contact is shiny or even slightly wrinkled. More often this happens due to the fact that the band clamp securing the exhaust pipe to the gearbox has broken. If the exhaust system fastening is normal, then the sound is eliminated by placing two metal plates 2-3 mm thick under the stabilizer brackets or by replacing the engine mounts.

With all of the above malfunctions, individually or collectively, the car’s behavior on the road worsens.

Sounds from the rear of the car

Rear axle rods. When starting and braking, a knocking sound is heard due to wear on the bushings. Or, after sharply pressing the gas pedal, the rear of the car turns slightly, and you have to use the steering wheel to correct the direction of movement of the car.

It is easy to determine a fault in the rods. Carry out diagnostics on an overpass or inspection ditch, but not on a lift. Grasp the rod with your hand and swing it. In this way, check all the rods: longitudinal and transverse. Faulty rods will have increased play or knocking noise. Replace the faulty rod.

Rear brake pads. After pressing the brake pedal, a noise is heard or vibration of the entire body occurs. Very often this malfunction occurs in damp or humid weather. This is usually due to a thin layer of corrosion or dirt on the pads or on the inside surface of the brake drums.

1. Try driving a few hundred meters with the handbrake not fully extended - the layer of corrosion will be erased and the noise will disappear.

2. Clean the pads and working surface of the brake drum from dirt with sandpaper.

Elliptical wear of the drums is also possible - then only replacement or grooving will help.

Transmission sounds

External CV joints: when they are faulty, clicks and rolling of the balls are clearly audible when turning.

Internal CV joints usually do not cause any trouble. But if they fail, then the symptoms are similar to external CV joints. Grasp the drive shaft with your hand. Shake it and try to rotate it around its axis. Increased play indicates a faulty CV joint. Such CV joints will not last long. It is better to replace them immediately.

Axle shafts: the noise increases with increasing speed. The axle shaft itself does not fail, but it has a weak point - the axle shaft bearing. You can check its performance in the same way as the front wheel bearings. Replace the faulty axle shaft together with the bearing or repress the bearing.

Front and rear axle gearboxes. The noise from them occurs when driving at speeds of 40-80 km/h. Good audibility under load or when releasing gas.

How to determine which gearbox is faulty? It is convenient to carry out the search in a viewing ditch.

Test No. 1. Alternately, turn the cardan shafts around their axis clockwise and counterclockwise by hand. If any of the shafts rotates by more than 15-20 degrees, then the gearbox to which this driveshaft is connected is faulty.

Test No. 2. Raise the front left or right side of the car. Spin the wheel quickly. Lower the car. Now lift the left or right side from behind. Spin the wheel quickly. Compare the noise level from the front and rear gearbox. The one that makes the loudest noise is faulty.

Flanges RPM, RZM, RK and KPP. Due to wear in the spline joints, they emit a dull metallic knock at the initial moment of movement. The faulty flange can only be determined after removing the driveshaft. Rotate the flange clockwise and counterclockwise at high speed. If there is play, there may be two reasons:

1. The flange nut is not tightened.

2. Development in spline joints.

In both cases, remove the flange and check its condition. If there is wear, replace the flange, transfer shafts or drive gear, depending on what is worn. If the nut is not tightened, tighten it to the required torque.

The flange mud rings emit a slight metallic ringing sound. It is clearly audible only when the car is moving at low speeds. You can diagnose it on an overpass, a lift, or simply crawl under the car on a flat area. Try turning all the dirt protection rings by hand (6 in total). You will easily find a ring torn from the flange: it will easily turn or simply dangle on the flange. Two ways to troubleshoot:

1. Use a wire brush to remove dirt from the ring and flange. Degrease both parts with gasoline. Apply cold welding in a circle at the contact point of the parts and let it harden.

2. Using electric welding, attach the dirt protection ring to the flange at 2-4 points.

Cardan shafts. A loud metallic click at the beginning of movement or creaking in time with the rotation of the shafts indicates a malfunction of the crosspieces. Finding a faulty cross is not difficult. Grab the shaft with one hand and the yoke flange with the other. While firmly holding the shaft from turning, try to rotate the fork flange around its axis, clockwise and counterclockwise. A knock or play will indicate a malfunction of one or another cross. The VAZ-21213 has 4 pieces, the VAZ-2121 has 5 pieces. Replace the faulty crosspiece and syringe it.

Noise in the gearbox area when the engine is idling in most cases comes from the gearbox input shaft bearing, less often from the intermediate shaft bearings or gears.

To make sure of this, press the clutch pedal. If the noise stops, then its source was most likely the input shaft bearing. The exact cause of the noise will only be determined by opening the gearbox.

A throwout bearing is rarely a problem. But if a noise or grinding noise appears when you press the clutch pedal and stops when you release it, then it’s time to change the release bearing. Another specific sound - a whistle, the tone of which sometimes changes by an octave (double the frequency) - indicates that the bearing itself has become unstuck from its base. This was observed with QH release bearings. You can drive, but the sound is not very pleasant.

Sounds from the engine compartment

A high-pitched squeal after starting the engine or with a sharp increase in speed indicates poor tension or elongation of the alternator belt.

Tension the belt (as indicated in the section About the generator), the whistling should stop. If it does not stop or after a while the whistling noise returns or the belt can no longer be tightened, replace it.

When idling, a rumble and/or a thin whistle can be heard from the front of the engine compartment - this could be from either the pump or the alternator.

Test No. 1. Take a long wooden block or thin hose and bring one end of it alternately to the pump and generator, and put the other end to your ear (insert the hose into the ear). Increased noise that you hear will indicate a problem with the pump or generator.

Test No. 2. Grasp one of the fan blades with your hand (not an additional electric one :-)) and swing it. Increased play will indicate a malfunction of the pump, or rather its bearing. If, in addition, before this you often had to add antifreeze and there are visible leaks on the pump, then it definitely needs to be replaced.

Test No. 3. Remove the alternator belt. Turn the pump pulley sharply by hand, and then the generator pulley. Increased noise that you hear will indicate a problem with the pump or generator.

The noise of the gas distribution mechanism can be heard very well against the background of the general operation of the engine.

Chain noise - a rattling-clapping sound is clearly audible if the chain tension is insufficient. As the engine speed increases, the noise disappears, but when the gas is released it appears again.

The sound of intake or exhaust valves is heard at regular intervals. Its frequency is less than the frequency of any other knock in the engine, since the valves are driven by the camshaft, the rotation speed of which is half the speed of the crankshaft.

The knock of the crankshaft main bearings is usually a metallic dull tone. It is detected when the throttle valves are opened sharply at idle. Its frequency increases with increasing crankshaft speed. Excessive axial clearance of the crankshaft causes a knock that is sharper and at uneven intervals, especially noticeable when the crankshaft rotation speed is gradually increased and decreased.

The knocking sound of the connecting rod bearings is sharp. It can be heard well when the throttle valves are opened sharply. If the sound is made by one of the journals, then the location of the knock can be easily determined by turning off the spark plugs one by one.

The sound of the pistons is not loud, but muffled, caused by the beating of the piston in the cylinder. It is best heard at low crankshaft speeds and under load. Addition: the knocking of the pistons is similar to the ringing of a bell (the source of information is the book “Repairing Zhiguli Engines” by Ross Tweg).

A loud, chirping sound when the throttle valves are opened sharply indicates that the ignition is too early or that the ignition distributor is faulty. Adjust the OZ and/or check the ignition distributor on a bench. For Muscovites: this can be done in a magician. “Cars” in UP, in the pavilion a little to the left of the center of the first floor.

Exhaust system. If it is faulty, then its sound cannot be confused with any other.

If a part of the exhaust system malfunctions, it is better to replace the entire assembly with clamps and gaskets.

I kindly ask readers to write to me as clearly as possible about the sound defects that you have ever heard on your car. Your letters will become the basis for continuing and expanding the article.

Email tel: 8-916-611-16-59

©Chipmaster. Reproduction of materials without the consent of the author is prohibited.

What equipment and materials should I stock up on?

When the front strut or rear strut is being replaced, regarding the required equipment and spare parts, we note that everything must be purchased in advance.

To work you need:

• corrugated rack boots;
• rubber bumpers and supports;
• self-locking nuts;
• bearings included;
• springs (if they also need replacement) and shock absorber.

The “bump stop” serves to prevent deformation of the rod when the shock absorber is seated “hard”. The boot protects the rod from moisture, dirt, abrasive and other road “artifacts” that wear out the mirror surface and cuff.

The manufacturer has provided a repair kit for the racks. It consists of the following products:

• support bearings;
• washers and supports.

The kit must be purchased in cases where replacement of supports is necessary. According to the assurances of the Renault Logan masters, they rarely “suffer” from the failure of these components, so we will not insist on the mandatory purchase.