Replacing spark plugs for KIA Sportage
The heart of any car is the engine, but this component is a complex system of many smaller parts. Spark plugs are used to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the engine. They are considered a consumable item, so it is necessary to change them promptly, just like motor oil. If you are the owner of a Kia Sportage, but do not want to trust your pet to car services, you can perform the service yourself. Replacing Kia Sportage 3 spark plugs is not particularly difficult and requires a minimal set of tools.
Replacing spark plugs for KIA SPORTAGE, DIESEL.
I did not find a suitable topic in the Region. Can anyone tell me who changed the spark plugs on a diesel engine? Maybe the company or “Uncle Vasya” knows who will take it on.
I changed it myself to d4ea, there are some difficulties in unscrewing there, there are cases of bummer, therefore, before the change I recommend uploading: https://market.yandex.ru/product–av. context=search wait about 20 minutes, fill it again and then unscrew it, tighten the tire carefully, otherwise it will bend and may shorten onto the body. There are a lot of videos on YouTube about replacing spark plugs; before installation, I recommend checking for resistance. so that the worker is PS and if there is a desire so that your head does not hurt, go to the official. If you don't have money, do it yourself. when the candles break, everyone runs away except the officials.
Last edited by jhat; 01/04/2020 at 17:05 .
First off, a question? And what kind of artist would take a diesel engine, and especially this model? My personal opinion is that diesel is good beyond the Urals in the European part.
In terms of replacement. I'll tell you my story. At one time I had a Toyota Hiace minivan, I don’t remember what engine (name) it was, but it was diesel. One fine day the engine rattled very much; during my external inspection of the engine, it turned out that the spark plug on the fourth cylinder had flown out, leaving only the threaded part at the base of the head. In general, in our town no one took up this job - to unscrew the kink. Or they offered to repair it by removing the head. I had to become “Uncle Vasya” myself. There is nothing tricky about replacing or unscrewing a hook, except for hands and some tools
Why is it important to change spark plugs on time?
As mentioned earlier, spark plugs are necessary to ignite the fuel-air mixture in a gasoline engine. The ignition of this mixture is carried out using a spark that occurs at the main electrode. To form it, several tens of thousands of volts are supplied. Accordingly, without a working spark plug the cylinder will not function, since the fuel simply will not be burned.
Each car has its own replacement regulations, but not all drivers adhere to them. If you drive too long on spark plugs alone, you are bound to encounter one or more of the following problems:
- The appearance of the “triple” effect when one or more cylinders do not function. This will lead to jerking while driving and idling.
- Problem starting the engine, including in warm weather.
- Increased fuel consumption, increased concentration of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide in the exhaust.
- Noticeable deterioration in driving characteristics. This includes slower acceleration and the inability to operate at high speeds.
If these factors are neglected, motorists will face severe coking. As a result of this, the likelihood of complete engine failure increases. In this case, major repairs cannot be avoided. Considering that the cost of candles is hundreds of rubles, it would be stupid to neglect replacement.
Replacement frequency
If candles are a consumable item, then a logical question arises: how often do you need to install new parts? Here it is necessary to focus on two factors. The first is the regulations. The technical documentation for the vehicle always contains information regarding the frequency of replacing spark plugs. For the third generation Kia Sportage, new spark plugs should be installed every 30 thousand kilometers. In practice, especially in severe frost conditions, the service life is reduced to 15-20 thousand. If we talk about iridium or platinum models, then the declared service life is up to 100 thousand. According to driver reviews, spark plugs have to be changed after 75-80 thousand kilometers.
The second factor is the real state of the candles, and it has a higher priority. The spark plug is constantly exposed to high temperatures and high pressure, so wear can occur much faster than expected. Other operating conditions also speed it up:
- Severe wear of the valve stem seals, which causes a large amount of oil to enter the cylinder. It envelops the spark plug and disrupts the operation of the engine.
- Incorrect ignition angle.
- Failure of the flow meter and lambda probe, which leads to an incorrect ratio of air and gasoline in the mixture.
- Using low quality fuel with a lower octane number.
The described malfunctions are dangerous for spark plugs, and in the future will completely disable them. Drivers should not only pay attention to the behavior of the car, but also conduct a visual inspection of the spark plugs.
content .. 41 42 47 ..Kia Sportage 3. DIAGNOSTICS OF ENGINE CONDITION BY APPEARANCE OF SPARK PLUGS
1. Normal candle.
Brown or grayish-yellow color and slight wear on the electrodes. Exact matching of the spark plug thermal value for the engine and operating conditions.
HELPFUL ADVICE
When replacing spark plugs with new ones, install spark plugs with the same characteristics recommended by the manufacturer. 2. Soot deposits.
Dry soot deposits indicate a rich air/fuel mixture or late ignition. Causes misfire, difficult engine starting and unstable engine operation. Check if the air filter is clogged and if the coolant and intake air temperature sensors are working properly.
HELPFUL ADVICE Use a hotter candle. 3. Oil deposits.
Oily electrodes and spark plug insulator. The reason is oil getting into the combustion chamber. Oil enters the combustion chamber through valve guides or piston rings. Causes difficult starting, cylinder misfires and “twitching” of a running engine. Repair of the cylinder head and piston group of the engine is required. Replace spark plugs. 4. Metal-containing plaque.
Deposits on the insulator skirt of brick-red iron oxides from anti-knock iron-containing additives (ferrocenes) to gasoline. They are deposited in an even, dense layer. When the engine operates under heavy load under the influence of high temperature and pressure in the combustion chamber, the oxides are reduced into conductive tracks of pure iron, which close the central electrode to ground. This causes misfires and, as a result, a drop in engine power and increased fuel consumption. In addition, the catalytic converter of the exhaust gases may be damaged, overheating greatly when unburned gasoline enters the engine cylinders. The plaque is practically not removed mechanically and does not fade during prolonged movement at high speed. If this deposit appears on new spark plugs after a short mileage, change the refueling location.
HELPFUL ADVICE
If it is not possible to immediately replace the spark plugs with new ones, try to remove this deposit by immersing the spark plugs with their insulator skirts for ten minutes in phosphoric acid or a rust converter (contains phosphoric acid). After this, clean the plaque with a non-metallic brush (or an old toothbrush) and rinse the spark plugs first with water and then with gasoline.
5. Melted electrodes.
Early ignition. The insulator is white, but may be contaminated due to missed sparks and deposits from the combustion chamber falling on it. May cause engine damage. It is necessary to check the suitability of the spark plug type, the cleanliness of the injector nozzles and fuel filter, and the operation of the cooling and lubrication systems. 6. Ash deposits. Light brown deposits crusting over the center and side electrodes. Released from additives
to oil or gasoline. A large number of them can lead to insulation of the spark plug electrodes, causing gaps in spark formation and interruptions during acceleration. If excessive deposits form over a short period of time or low mileage, replace the valve guide seals to prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber.
HELPFUL ADVICE
If deposits consistently form over a long run, the reason is the quality of gasoline - change the refueling location. 7. Spark plug insulator with cracks or chips.
Detonation. This may damage the piston. Make sure that the octane number of gasoline matches the required one. Check the serviceability of the knock sensor. 8. Mechanical damage to the electrodes and spark plug insulator.
Damage can be caused by foreign objects getting into the combustion chamber, and if you use a spark plug that is too long, its electrodes can catch on the piston. This leads to spark plug destruction, cylinder shutdown and piston damage. Remove the foreign object from the cylinder and/or replace the spark plug.
content .. 41 42 47 ..
How to Identify Spark Plug Problems
Experienced motorists always notice any changes in engine operation and also constantly monitor fuel consumption. This is really important, because increased gasoline consumption is abnormal, which means that something in the car is not working correctly. Increased consumption is one of the main signs of problems with spark plugs. You can evaluate the indicators both according to the on-board computer data and actually, for example, by measuring the number of kilometers traveled per liter of gasoline.
The second important sign of a failing spark plug (or several) is “motor tripping”. It is quite easy to notice this phenomenon, since there are peculiar dips in the operation of the motor, due to which the sound from the operation is not smooth and uniform, but intermittent. At the same time, unstable operation at idle may occur. When driving, the engine may lose power. If the engine “troubles”, it is necessary not only to check the spark plugs, it is also recommended to diagnose the ignition system and electronic control. Often, when the spark plugs malfunction, the check engine icon lights up on the dashboard.
Be sure to monitor the exhaust gases. Increased smokiness is a sign of severe carbon deposits on the spark plugs due to poor combustion of the fuel mixture or too much oil getting into the cylinders. Additionally, we recommend visually inspecting the spark plugs for the Kia Sportage. Drivers may encounter the following types of carbon deposits:
- Black velvety. This indicates an overly rich mixture. It is recommended to check the carburetor settings or the correct operation of the injector. Also, the reasons may be a breakdown of the oxygen sensor or throttle valve.
- Black soot, reminiscent of suede. Talks about incorrectly selected candles. Most likely, the heat number does not match. It is recommended to install fully compatible models.
- Oily, shiny. This indicates that a large amount of oil has entered the combustion chamber. The reasons are critical wear of guide bushings and valves, oil scraper rings or loss of elasticity of the caps. Replacement of spark plugs must be carried out only after the faults found in the engine have been eliminated.
- Soot colored bricks of various shades. Indicates the presence of an increased concentration of metal in the fuel-air mixture. The most likely reason is the use of poor quality fuel. Clean the spark plugs from carbon deposits and switch to regular gasoline.
- Yellow carbon deposits on the rims. The reason is similar in unsatisfactory fuel.
- Erosion. Caused by additives. It is necessary to change the spark plugs.
- Ash soot. Indicates that there is a breakdown in the ignition system or carburetor. After repair, the spark plugs will need to be replaced, as well as a subsequent check after 150-200 kilometers.
Thus, the candles on the Kia Sportage 3 are a kind of indicator element that will indicate the malfunction of any vehicle components. During each maintenance, we recommend checking their condition and taking timely measures.
Spark plugs - general information Kia Sportage
- Repair manuals
- Repair manual for Kia Sportage 1999-2002.
- Spark plugs - general information
Spark plugs - general information
General description
The spark plug serves to transmit the high voltage current generated by the ignition coil to the electrodes lowered into the combustion chamber, where this current produces a spark discharge that ignites the working mixture.
Inside the combustion chamber, the candle is subjected to cyclic thermal and barometric influences, in addition, the climatic factor plays an important role.
One of the main requirements for a spark plug is its performance at voltages above 30 kV and the ability of its insulation to resist destruction when exposed to temperatures up to 1000°C. In addition, the part of the spark plug placed in the combustion chamber must have good resistance to high-temperature corrosion.
Another important parameter that ensures the reliable functioning of a spark plug is its heat dissipation capacity. Since the spark plug is subjected to rapid periodic changes in temperature, determined by its alternating contact either with the cold working mixture supplied to the cylinder, or with combustion products heated to enormous temperatures, its ceramic insulator must be highly resistant to cyclic thermal loads.
Typical spark plug design
1 - Contact head with nut 2 - Ceramic insulator 3 - Housing 4 - Heat shrink groove | 5 — Conductive glass sealant 6 — Gasket 7 — Bimetallic central electrode (Ni/Cu) 8 — Ground electrode |
The recommended type of spark plug is determined, among other things, by the heat rating, which characterizes the spark plug's ability to withstand thermal loads. Moreover, the higher the heat number, the lower the temperature characteristics of the candle.
Temperature characteristics of the spark plug
1 - Low heat rating (hot plug) 2 - Medium heat rating 3 - High heat rating (cold plug) |
Correct selection of spark plugs according to their heat rating allows you to avoid misfires both during engine warm-up and during normal operation. In addition to increasing the stability of engine speed and improving its efficiency, preventing misfires can significantly reduce the concentration of hydrocarbon (HC) emissions into the atmosphere.
The stability and intensity of spark formation of a spark plug is determined by the size of its interelectrode gap. At first glance, it is preferable to have a maximum gap between the central and side electrodes of the spark plug, since increasing the size of the spark ensures reliable combustion of the air-fuel mixture by increasing the initial volume of its ignition. On the other hand, an excessive gap increases the likelihood that the breakdown voltage generated by the coil will be insufficient to produce a stable spark discharge under unfavorable circumstances, especially at the end of the spark plug's life.
On modern engines with high compression ratios, in order to ensure stable ignition and avoid misfiring of the working mixture during the entire service life of the spark plug, special attention should be paid to maintaining the normalized interelectrode gap.
Replacement of spark plugs should be carried out strictly in accordance with the vehicle's routine maintenance schedule (see Section Routine maintenance schedule of the Chapter Routine care and maintenance ) - a description of the procedure is given there, in the Section Replacing glow plugs .
By the appearance of the spark plug, we can draw conclusions about the operation of the spark plugs, the control of mixture quality and the condition of the engine (pistons, piston rings, etc.).
Coal deposits
Symptoms : The presence of soot indicates an over-rich fuel-air mixture or weak spark intensity. Causes misfires, makes starting difficult and leads to engine instability. Recommendations : Check if the air cleaner is clogged, if the fuel level in the float chamber is too high, if the air damper is stuck and if the contacts are too worn. Try using plugs with a longer insulator, which increases resistance to fouling. |
Oiling
Symptoms : Oiling of the spark plug is caused by wear of the oil seals. Oil enters the combustion chamber through worn valve guides or piston rings. Causes misfires, makes starting difficult and leads to engine instability. Recommendations : Carry out mechanical restoration work and replace the spark plugs. |
Overheat
Symptoms : Porous, white insulator, electrode erosion and absence of any deposits. Leads to a reduction in spark plug life. Recommendations : Check whether the heat number of installed spark plugs meets the requirements of the Specifications of the Chapter of the Engine Electrical Equipment System , whether the ignition timing is set correctly, whether the fuel-air mixture is supplied too lean, whether there are vacuum leaks in the intake pipeline and whether the valves are jammed. Also check the coolant level and whether the radiator is clogged. |
Ignition too early
Symptoms : Electrodes are melted. The insulator is white, but may be dirty due to misfires or foreign particles entering the combustion chambers. May cause engine failure. Recommendations : Check the heat number of the installed spark plugs, the ignition timing, the quality of the mixture (is it too lean), whether the cooling system is clogged and whether the lubrication system is functioning normally. |
Electrically conductive gloss
Symptoms : The insulator has a yellowish color and a polished appearance. Indicates a sudden increase in temperature in the combustion chambers during sudden acceleration. In this case, ordinary deposits are melted, taking on the appearance of a varnish coating. Leads to misfires at high speeds. Recommendations : Change the spark plugs (colder ones, while maintaining the same driving style). |
Closing the electrodes
Symptoms : Waste combustion products enter the interelectrode space. Solid deposits accumulate, forming a bridge between the electrodes. Leads to ignition failure in the cylinder. Recommendations : Remove deposits from the interelectrode space. |
Normal spark plug condition
Symptoms : Gray-brown color and slight wear of the electrodes. The glow number of spark plugs corresponds to the type of engine and its general condition. Recommendations : When replacing spark plugs, install spark plugs of the same type. |
Ash formation
Symptoms : Soft brownish deposits on one or both spark plug electrodes. The source of their formation is the additives used for oil and/or fuel. Excessive buildup can cause the electrodes to insulate and cause misfire and rough running of the engine under acceleration. Recommendations : If deposits accumulate quickly, change the oil seals, which will prevent oil from entering the combustion chambers. Try changing the brand of fuel. |
Wear
Symptoms : Rounded electrodes with a slight buildup of deposits at the working end. The color is normal. Leads to difficulty starting the engine in cold wet weather and increased fuel consumption. Recommendations : Replace the spark plugs with new ones of the same type. |
Detonation
Symptoms : Insulators may become chipped or cracked. Damage to the insulator can also be caused by inaccurate spark plug gap adjustment techniques. May cause damage to pistons. |
Splashing
Symptoms : After misfiring for an extended period of time, deposits may loosen while the combustion chamber remains at operating temperature. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and stick to the hot insulator, causing a misfire. Recommendations : Replace the spark plugs or clean and replace the old ones. |
Mechanical damage
Symptoms : May be caused by foreign material entering the combustion chamber or may occur when the piston hits a plug that is too long. Lead to failure of the cylinder and damage to the piston. Recommendations : Remove foreign particles from the engine and/or replace the spark plugs. |
When screwing in spark plugs, do not exceed the maximum permissible tightening force the Engine Electrical Equipment System
↓ Comments ↓
1. Controls and operating techniques
1. Access, protection 1.0 Controls and operating techniques 1.1 First 1500 km 1.3. Security system elements 1.4. Vehicle equipment, arrangement of instruments and controls 1.5. Comfort devices 1.6. Operating techniques and auxiliary systems
2. Routine care and maintenance
2. Checking the condition of tires and their inflation pressure, wheel rotation 2.0 Routine care and maintenance 2.1 General information 2.2 General information about settings and adjustments 2.3 Routine maintenance schedule 2.4 Checking fluid levels 2.6 Replacing engine oil and oil filter 2.7 Replacing manual transmission oil 2.8 Replacement lubricants of the transfer case and differentials 2.9 Lubricating locks and hinges 2.10 Checking the condition of the drive shaft boots 2.11 Lubricating the universal joints of the cardan shafts 2.12 Checking the brake system components 2.13 Checking the functioning of the cooling system and frost resistance of the coolant, replacing the liquid 2.14 Replacing the air cleaner filter element 2.15 Replacing the spark plugs 2.16 Replacement candles incandescent 2.17 Checking the condition and tension of the drive belts of auxiliary units 2.18 Checking the condition and reliability of fastening of the chassis components, suspension and steering drive 2.19 Checking the condition of the exhaust gas system components 2.20 Checking the condition and replacing the hoses of the engine compartment, localizing leaks 2.21 Checking the power system, replacing the fuel filter 2.22 Checking idle speed 2.23 Replacing ATF 2.24 Checking the proper functioning of the PCV valve (petrol models) 2.25 Checking the condition and replacing the timing belt 2.26 Checking the air conditioning system 2.27 Checking the condition and replacing windshield wiper blades* 2.28 Checking the condition of the battery, caring for it and charging *
3. Engine
3.0 Engine 3.1. Checking compression pressure, assessing the condition of the cylinders 3.2. Gasoline models 3.3. Diesel models
4. Cooling, heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems
4.0 Cooling, heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems 4.1 General information 4.2. Engine cooling system 4.3. Ventilation, heating and air conditioning systems
5. Power supply, engine management/emission control and exhaust systems
5.0 Power supply, engine control/emission control and exhaust systems 5.1 Safety measures and general rules adopted when servicing components of fuel tracts of internal combustion engines 5.2. Power supply system for gasoline engines 5.3. Diesel engine power supply system 5.4. Engine control systems and exhaust emissions reduction systems 5.5. Exhaust system
6. Engine electrical systems
6.0 Engine electrical systems 6.1. Ignition system of a gasoline engine 6.2. System for facilitating cold start of diesel engine 6.3. Charging and starting system
7. Five-speed manual gearbox
7.0 Five-speed manual gearbox 7.1 General information 7.2 Removing and installing the manual transmission shift lever 7.3 Removing and installing the manual transmission
8. Automatic transmission
8.0 Automatic transmission 8.1 General information 8.2 Troubleshooting - general information 8.3 Reading DTC codes, clearing processor memory 8.4 Checking and adjusting AT control system components 8.5 Checking and adjusting the mechanical-hydraulic part 8.6 Checking and adjusting the AT drive cable 8.7 Removing and installing the AT selector lever 8.8 Removal and installation of AT
9. Transmission line
9.0 Transmission line 9.1 General information 9.2. Clutch 9.3. Transfer case 9.4. Cardan shafts 9.5. Bridges
10. Brake system
10.0 Brake system 10.1 General information and safety precautions 10.2 Checking and adjusting the foot brake pedal 10.3 Checking the parking brake lever 10.4 Checking the proper functioning of the vacuum brake booster 10.5 Checking the differential bypass valve-pressure regulator (models without ABS and EBD) 10.6 Removing and installing the foot brake pedal 10.7 Removal, maintenance and installation of the master brake cylinder 10.8 Removal and installation of the vacuum brake booster assembly 10.9 Assessing the degree of wear, replacing the pads of the front wheel disc brakes 10.10 Disassembling the front wheel brake mechanism, assessing the condition of the disc 10.11 Removing and installing flexible brake hoses of the hydraulic path of the brakes front wheels 10.12 Maintenance of the drum brake mechanisms of the rear wheels 10.13 Removing and installing the parking brake lever, adjusting the drive cable 10.14 Bleeding the brakes 10.15 Reading ABS/EBD fault codes, clearing the processor memory 10.16 Removing and installing the hydraulic and electronic control units ABS/EBD 10.17 Removal, checking installation of ABS wheel sensors 10.18 Replacing front wheel ABS sensor rotors
11. Suspension and steering
11.0 Suspension and steering 11.1 General information 11.2 Assessment of the condition of suspension and steering components 11.3. Front suspension 11.4. Rear suspension 11.5. Steering 11.6. Suspension geometry
12. Body
12.0 Body 12.1 General information 12.2. External equipment and body elements 12.3. Interior equipment
13. On-board electrical equipment
13.0 On-board electrical equipment 13.1 General information and precautions 13.2 Finding the causes of electrical equipment failures 13.3 Fuses - general information 13.4 Circuit breakers - general information 13.5 Relays - general information and checking proper functioning 13.6 Fuse/relay mounting blocks - general information, removal, installation, replacement of fuses 13.7 Timer and signal gong system (ETWIS) - general information, removal and installation of the control module 13.8 Checking the proper functioning of the ignition switch 13.9 Checking the proper functioning of the steering column switches 13.10 Checking the proper functioning of the control switches and electric motors for power window drive 13.11 Checking the proper functioning of the control switch and electric door adjustment motors rear-view mirrors 13.12 Interior lamps - replacing lamps, checking the proper functioning 13.13 Replacing lamps and checking the proper functioning of external lighting devices 13.14 Removing, checking the proper functioning and installing the turn signal/hazard signal breaker 13.15 Removing, installing and adjusting headlights 13.16 Airbags - general information and precautions 13.17 Disabling SRS 13.18 Reading DTCs 13.19 Removing and installing the driver's airbag module 13.20 Removing, installing and adjusting the contact cable reel of the driver's airbag module 13.21 Removing and installing the airbag diagnostic module (ADU)
14. Control body dimensions
14.0 Control body dimensions
15. Electrical connection diagrams
15.0 Electrical connection diagrams 15.1 Power distribution 15.2 Ground distribution 15.3 Engine management system 15.4 Starting system 15.5 Charging system 15.6 On-board computer 15.7 Computer data lines 15.8 Instrument cluster 15.9 Automatic transmission (AT) 15.10 AT shift lock 15.11 Anti-lock brake system (ABS) 15.12 Tempostat 15.13 Condenser fan A/V 15.14 Heating system 15.15 Air conditioning system (A/V) 15.16 Exterior lighting (Station wagon) 15.17 Exterior lighting (Convertible) 15.18 Headlights 15.19 Reversing lights 15.20 Instrument lighting 15.21 Horn 15.22 Interior lighting when opening doors 1 5.23 Cleaners/washers windshield 15.24 Rear window wiper/washer 15.25 Power door mirrors 15.26 Heated rear window 15.27 Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) 15.28 Warning system 15.29 Power windows (Estate) 15.30 Power windows (Convertible) 15.31 Radio 15.32 Single lock 15.33 Anti-theft system
16. Identification numbers and information labels
16.0 Identification numbers and information labels 16.1 Troubleshooting
What spark plugs are needed for Kia Sportage
When replacing consumables on a car for the first time, drivers are faced with the question of what parts to buy. The best option is to buy similar branded models that are guaranteed to be compatible with your motor and will not cause problems in the operation of the engine. There are two types of Kia Sportage: without restyling (models before 2014) and after restyling (after 2014).
For “pre-restyle”, buy models NGK 6376 (LFR5A-11). The cost varies from 150 to 200 rubles. If you were unable to order branded products in your region, you can look for analogues (Densо K16HPR-U11, Bosch 0 242 229 630, Beru Z 303). If funds allow, order long-lasting iridium spark plugs for the Sportage Denso IKH16 or NGK LFR 5AIX-11. They will last up to 80 thousand kilometers, so they will have to be changed less often.
For cars after restyling, look for spark plugs NGK 9723 (laser iridium SILZKR7B11) or an alternative in the form of Denso VXUH22I. Please note that these are M12 threaded parts. Please refer to the technical manual for more details and part number. You need to decide which spark plugs are best for the Kia Sportage in practice, having tested several models.
How to replace spark plugs
To replace, you will need a set of socket wrenches and a spark plug wrench. It is recommended to carry out the procedure in a well-lit place, but it is possible in the open air. The procedures are carried out only with a cold engine, so after the trip the car should sit for at least 30-40 minutes. Replacing Kia Sportage spark plugs includes the following steps:
- Open the hood of the car. There is a plastic protective cover on top of the motor. You need to lift it with both hands. The cover may be difficult to remove, so don't be afraid to use force. It is attached to the usual 4 pistons.
- There are four coils in a line on the engine, bolted on. Unscrew them and then carefully remove the coils. If you are careful, the wires may not be disconnected.
- Take the spark plug wrench and unscrew the spark plugs. Screw new ones into the seats.
- Reinstall the coils and tighten the bolts.
- Place the protective panel in place by snapping the rivets into place.
If you have a different engine modification, here are the instructions for replacing spark plugs:
- Unscrew the nuts on the protection.
- Remove the protective plastic cover.
- Remove the bracket.
- We turn off the sensors and pipes.
- Pipes front and rear.
- Unscrew the last screw.
- A few more screws.
- Loosen the clamp and then remove the air duct.
- We're filming.
- Unscrew with a 10mm wrench, then unscrew the screws with your fingers.
- Remove another cover.
- Unscrew and remove the coil.
- Removing the ignition coil.
- We unscrew the candles.
- We install new ignition spark plugs. Let's put everything back together in reverse order.
The whole process takes from 15 to 30 minutes. Next, you can test new spark plugs. Make sure that detonation and power loss have disappeared and fuel consumption has returned to normal. Make a trip of 250-300 kilometers and visually assess the condition of the spark plugs for the appearance of soot.
How to replace spark plugs yourself on a Kia Sportage (DOHC 2.0 engine)
To independently replace spark plugs on a Kia Sportage (DOHC 2.0 engine), you will need:
A socket wrench with a socket head “10” and a wrench “12”. Phillips screwdriver (for unscrewing clamps). Pliers (for removing clamps). Large medical enema or pump with nozzle or (for blowing out spark plug wells). Spark plug head (long) “16” with extension. A spark plug wrench for 20 rubles from a VAZ-21103 16 valve fits very well. Long thin pliers or tweezers (to remove candles from wells). And of course the candles themselves :). For example: NGK BKR6E, BERU 14FR-7 DUX
The spark plugs themselves are located under a black plastic cap #1. In order to get to them you need to remove the air intake pipe #2.
So, in order.
Unscrew the screw of the clamp securing the rubber air supply hose #3 to the air intake pipe #2. Remove the air supply sleeve. Notice the small triangle markers at both ends of the sleeve. These markers are necessary for correct installation of the sleeve during assembly. Before tightening the clamps, it is necessary to position the hose so that the markers at both ends point, for example, up. Otherwise, the sleeve will be twisted (which is difficult to notice by eye), and in conditions of constant vibration it will not last long... Unscrew the screw of the clamp securing the short rubber hose #4, which connects the air intake pipe and the intake resonator #5 (this is a small plastic box that located above the throttle cable near the engine compartment panel). Using a 10mm head, unscrew one screw securing the intake resonator #6 (on the left along the way). Using pliers, squeeze the clamps that secure hoses #7 and #8 to the air intake pipe. Remove these hoses from the pipes and move them to the side. Remove connector #9 from the sensor by pressing the metal tab with your finger. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the two vertical #10 screws securing the air intake pipe to the engine cover. Using a 12mm head, unscrew the three #11 screws securing the air intake pipe to the throttle body. Please note: the far screw is long, the other two are short. Remove air intake pipe #2. A little effort may be needed as... the pipe flange may stick to the throttle body. Please note: a heat-resistant gasket is installed in the connection. At the same time, disconnect and remove intake resonator #5.
Using a 10mm head, unscrew the 2 #12 screws securing the throttle valve drive cable support. There is no need to move or remove the support anywhere. This is simply necessary in order to remove the plastic cover of the ignition coils (see the next point), which otherwise will rest against the support. Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the 6 #13 screws securing the plastic ignition coil cover to the engine. If you forget, during assembly this cover is installed so that the rubber inspection hatch is in front in the direction of travel of the car.
Remove the ignition coils (2 pieces) and wires with tips from the corresponding spark plugs. Just in case, write down which coil (wire) fits which spark plug. Using a pump, thoroughly blow out the “wells” in which the spark plugs are installed. Otherwise, dust and dirt that have accumulated in the “wells” can get into the combustion chambers when the spark plugs are unscrewed... and this is not very healthy. In my photo there is dirt all around, but if I were you, I would clean the engine before disassembling it. spark plugs engine
Using a 16mm spark plug wrench, unscrew the spark plugs. Remove the candles by grasping them with tweezers. By the way, you can use a regular high-voltage wire from a VAZ with the rubber cap removed: the wire contacts snap onto the spark plug quite tightly... Before installing new spark plugs, you can apply a thin (i.e., just a little!) layer of molybdenum- or graphite-based lubricant to their threads. This will make it easier to unscrew the spark plugs the next time you replace them...
Reassemble in reverse order. Good luck!
What candles should I put?
In accordance with the technical regulations, on the Kia Rio or Kia Sportage 3, the SZ must be replaced every 30 thousand km. However, in fact, this figure averages 15-20 thousand km. As we have already reported above, service life largely depends not only on the car, but also on the manufacturer of the vehicle.
Replacing the SZ with a Kia Rio or any other car model should be done if the following occurs due to poor condition of the spark plugs:
- the power unit began to work unstably;
- the engine suffers, its power has decreased significantly;
- fuel consumption has increased.
Of course, these symptoms may also indicate other problems with the engine.
Therefore, in order to make sure that the SZ on the Kia Sid or Kia Spectra has already completed its service life, you need to remove them from the installation site and carry out diagnostics, at least visually:
- First, pay attention to the gap between the electrodes. As a rule, the gap size is indicated in the marking, usually this is the last digit. If it is not there, then this indicates that the distance should be 8 mm. If the gap is larger, then the device must be changed.
- Carefully inspect the device for carbon deposits. If the combustion process is configured correctly, then the SZ should self-clean during use. If there is black or white carbon deposits on the design of the part, this indicates that the operation of the ignition system is impaired. However, if one SZ smells like fuel or at least one of them has carbon deposits, then the entire set needs to be changed.
- The ceramic insulator has a dark coating or signs of damage have appeared on it, in particular cracks (the author of the video is Igor V).
If you decide to change spark plugs on a Kia Sportage or any other car model, then first of all you need to read the service book. In the manual, the manufacturer always indicates which SZ can be used, as well as what type it should be.
The design of the motor involves the use of two types of CX with an extended thread of 29 mm:
It should be noted that this list is not limited to these models. You can use any similar devices from other manufacturers, it is only important that they match the heat rating and design. For example, you can use iridium SZ from NGK, but keep in mind that its cost will be several times higher than when compared with conventional devices.
DIY replacement instructions
Replacing Kia Rio spark plugs can be done in a garage without visiting a service station. The procedure itself is quite simple, so almost every car enthusiast can master it; all you need is a set of keys and a screwdriver.
So, how to replace Kia Rio spark plugs:
- First, open the engine compartment and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
- Using a 10mm wrench, you will need to unscrew the four bolts that secure the plastic protection of the power unit. It will be more convenient to use a socket wrench. Having done this, you can remove the cover.
- After this, you will need a flat-tip screwdriver - with its help you must move the mount of the block with the wiring that connects to the ignition coil.
- By moving the latch, you can disconnect the plug from the coil itself.
- After completing these steps, you will need to unscrew the screw that secures the coil itself. To do this, you will need a 10mm wrench. By unscrewing the bolt, the coil can be removed.
- Before dismantling the spark plug, the spark plug well itself must be cleaned to prevent dirt from getting into the holes. Alternatively, you can use a compressor for this - this method is considered one of the most effective.
- Then, using a 17mm wrench, you need to unscrew the SZ itself and remove it from the seat. Instead, a new product is installed, and a coil is placed on top of it. This procedure must be repeated with all devices. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Price issue
Visual instructions for replacing spark plugs at home using the Kia Rio 3 as an example are shown in the video below (the author of the video is Vyacheslav Khrapov).
Selecting and replacing spark plugs on Kia cars: from theory to practice
Any car enthusiast needs to replace spark plugs. The thing is that SZ is a consumable item that cannot work forever. But the service life depends not only on the specific vehicle, but also on the manufacturer, as well as the design features of the SZ. Read more about how to choose Kia Rio spark plugs and how to change them below.
Diagnostics and replacement of spark plugs on a Kia Sportage at a car service center
Because Many symptoms may be similar to malfunctions of other components of the car; you should contact a qualified specialist who can diagnose the breakdown. And without the appropriate experience and equipment, it may be impossible to distinguish the symptoms. As a result, you can disassemble a working unit.
Therefore, the savings may turn into unjustified expenses. Our qualified specialists will diagnose and replace spark plugs as soon as possible.
IMPORTANT! Replacing faulty parts must be done on a cold Kio Sportage engine. You need to know that only the engine oil is changed when the engine is hot.
In what cases is it necessary to replace spark plugs?
In accordance with the technical regulations, on the Kia Rio or Kia Sportage 3, the SZ must be replaced every 30 thousand km. However, in fact, this figure averages 15-20 thousand km. As we have already reported above, service life largely depends not only on the car, but also on the manufacturer of the vehicle. For example, the NGK company produces special iridium spark plugs for engines, the service life of which is 100 thousand kilometers.
Replacing the SZ with a Kia Rio or any other car model should be done if the following occurs due to poor condition of the spark plugs:
- the power unit began to work unstably;
- the engine suffers, its power has decreased significantly;
- fuel consumption has increased.
Of course, these symptoms may also indicate other problems with the engine.
Therefore, in order to make sure that the SZ on the Kia Sid or Kia Spectra has already completed its service life, you need to remove them from the installation site and carry out diagnostics, at least visually:
- First, pay attention to the gap between the electrodes. As a rule, the gap size is indicated in the marking, usually this is the last digit. If it is not there, then this indicates that the distance should be 8 mm. If the gap is larger, then the device must be changed.
- Carefully inspect the device for carbon deposits. If the combustion process is configured correctly, then the SZ should self-clean during use. If there is black or white carbon deposits on the design of the part, this indicates that the operation of the ignition system is impaired. However, if one SZ smells like fuel or at least one of them has carbon deposits, then the entire set needs to be changed.
- The ceramic insulator has a dark coating or signs of damage have appeared on it, in particular cracks (the author of the video is Igor V).
What candles should I put?
If you decide to change spark plugs on a Kia Sportage or any other car model, then first of all you need to read the service book. In the manual, the manufacturer always indicates which SZ can be used, as well as what type it should be.
The design of the motor involves the use of two types of CX with an extended thread of 29 mm:
It should be noted that this list is not limited to these models. You can use any similar devices from other manufacturers, it is only important that they match the heat rating and design. For example, you can use iridium SZ from NGK, but keep in mind that its cost will be several times higher than when compared with conventional devices.
What analogues can be used:
- Champion RC10YC4;
- BOSCH 0 242 229 656;
- NGK SILZKR6B-10E;
- Denso K16PR-U11;
- BKR5EIX-11.
DIY replacement instructions
Replacing Kia Rio spark plugs can be done in a garage without visiting a service station. The procedure itself is quite simple, so almost every car enthusiast can master it; all you need is a set of keys and a screwdriver.
So, how to replace Kia Rio spark plugs:
- First, open the engine compartment and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
- Using a 10mm wrench, you will need to unscrew the four bolts that secure the plastic protection of the power unit. It will be more convenient to use a socket wrench. Having done this, you can remove the cover.
- After this, you will need a flat-tip screwdriver - with its help you must move the mount of the block with the wiring that connects to the ignition coil.
- By moving the latch, you can disconnect the plug from the coil itself.
- After completing these steps, you will need to unscrew the screw that secures the coil itself. To do this, you will need a 10mm wrench. By unscrewing the bolt, the coil can be removed.
- Before dismantling the spark plug, the spark plug well itself must be cleaned to prevent dirt from getting into the holes. Alternatively, you can use a compressor for this - this method is considered one of the most effective.
- Then, using a 17mm wrench, you need to unscrew the SZ itself and remove it from the seat. Instead, a new product is installed, and a coil is placed on top of it. This procedure must be repeated with all devices. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Replacing spark plugs
- Analysis of details. First you need to remove the clamp that secures the sleeve of the air intake pipe and the air supply.
- Remove the air supply hose. Pay attention to the markers when removing. When reinstalling, refer to them.
- As a rule, all these marks should face up. It is necessary to pay special attention to the marks, since if the sleeve is twisted, you expose the car to danger. Due to constant vibration, this part will eventually fail.
- Unscrew the clamp located on the rubber hose connecting the air intake pipe and the intake resonator. The resonator looks like a plastic box.
- Now you need to unscrew the screws securing the resonator. For this operation you will need a ratchet or a wrench with a 10 mm head.
- Now you need to remove the following clamps. To remove it you will need pliers. You need to pinch them and pull them to the side. Move the hoses of the pipes to the side so that they do not interfere.
- To successfully remove the spark plugs, you should pay attention to the nearby connector. To disconnect it from the sensor, you must press the metal latch. It is not recommended to use brute force to avoid tearing out the part.
- Remove the 2 screws that hold the engine cover and air intake. Again, you will need a 10mm socket or wrench.
- Pay special attention to the throttle body. There are 3 screws on this housing that connect the throttle body to the air intake tube. To unscrew these screws you will need a ratchet or a 12 mm socket wrench. Each of these screws is identical and it is worth paying attention to their original locations. One is usually shorter than the other.
- Remove the air intake pipe by unscrewing the screws. If this operation was last performed a long time ago, the tube becomes stuck and removing it is quite problematic. You should not use brute force for successful dismantling, so as not to break the threads. By carefully moving from side to side, sooner or later the pipe will succumb to pressure.
- Unscrew the part that covers the intake resonator.
- Now you need to unscrew the two screws with a 10 mm head. These screws secure the throttle cable support. In this case, there is no need to move or dismantle the support. Removing the screws will allow you to successfully remove the plastic ignition coil cover.
- Remove the 6 screws that secure the ignition cover to the engine.
- Now you need to remove the two ignition coils and spark plug wiring. To facilitate the process, it is necessary to note which coil is attached to which spark plug. Now, using an enema, a syringe without a needle, or a vacuum cleaner with a special attachment, you need to remove dirt in the wells in order to avoid dirt getting into the combustion chamber.
- Now you need a special 16 mm spark plug wrench, with which you can unscrew the spark plug. Remove it using pliers or tweezers. The threads of new spark plugs must be lubricated with a special graphite-based lubricant.
- Install new spark plugs.
- The assembly process is carried out in reverse order. Check all fasteners for play and also check that everything is installed according to the marks.
Replacing spark plugs for Kia Rio-3
According to the maintenance regulations, spark plugs in the Kia Rio-3 should be replaced every 60 thousand km . However, in order for the car to serve faithfully, it is recommended that during each scheduled maintenance (every 15 thousand km) you check the condition of the spark plugs (by the deposits that have formed you can determine whether there are problems with the engine), adjust the gaps, and clean them of deposits .
The manufacturer installs NGK LZKR6B spark plugs in Kia Rio-3 engines (catalog number - 18855-10060). However, you can install analogues that have similar parameters, for example, Champion RER8MC (catalog number - 18855-10080).
Replacing spark plugs or adjusting the gaps (standard gaps are 1.0-1.1 mm) may be necessary ahead of schedule.
Signs of faulty spark plugs are:
- twitching of the engine when driving and at idle speed (the so-called “triple” of the engine).
- drop in engine power.
- increase in fuel consumption.
- problems with starting the engine (no ignition of the combustible mixture).
- increase in CO emissions.
Replacing spark plugs for Kia Rio-3
To replace spark plugs you will need:
- A 10mm wrench (any wrench will do, but a head will be more convenient).
- Flat blade screwdriver.
- High head 16 with extension.
Procedure for replacing spark plugs
Attention! Replacement of spark plugs is carried out only on a cold engine!
- Remove the engine cover . To do this, unscrew the four bolts securing the cover using a 10mm wrench.
- Under the cover you will see four ignition coils that are connected to the spark plugs. To remove them, disconnect the wire connectors . Use a screwdriver to move the wire block retainer. Be careful, the clips break off easily.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the ignition coils and remove the coils (remember the sequence of installation of the ignition coils).
Tip: Before removing the spark plugs, use compressed air to blow out any debris and dust in the spark plug wells to prevent them from getting into the engine (just in case).
- Using a 16mm long socket, remove the spark plugs .
- In order not to spoil the threads in the cylinder head, new spark plugs should be threaded with an extension without a wrench. If the spark plug starts to screw in in a skewed state, it should be unscrewed and screwed in again along the thread. When the candles are baited, you can use a wrench to finally tighten them (the tightening torque of the candle should be 25 N.m.).
What are spark plugs for?
Spark plugs play a very important role in engine operation. They contribute to the productive operation of the engine by igniting the working mixture. As a rule, the number of spark plugs is exactly the same as the number of cylinders in the car, but in practice there are also two spark plugs per cylinder.
If the spark plugs are faulty, the entire car usually suffers. There is a deterioration in performance, even with one faulty spark plug. The first symptom that any car enthusiast can notice is a noticeable decrease in power.
In this case, you should immediately perform maintenance on the spark plugs and, if possible, replace them. On a Kia Sportage car, it is necessary to change spark plugs every 15-20 thousand km, even despite sometimes high-quality spark plugs, which the manufacturer recommends changing once every 30 thousand km.
Timely and regular replacement of spark plugs on Kia Sportage cars will lead to noticeable savings in fuel consumption and increased power. It is thanks to these spark plugs that the car is able to start normally in winter.
The structure of the candle is quite simple, considering that it is the size of an index finger. It usually consists of a contact terminal, a seal, an insulator and an insulator rib, a side electrode and a central electrode. The candle ignites the mixture due to an electrical discharge that occurs between the electrodes of the candle.
Video “Replacing spark plugs for Kia Rio-3”
In order for you to be convinced of the simplicity of the procedure for replacing spark plugs, we suggest watching the following video instructions.
Diagnostics of engine operation based on the condition of spark plugs
If you are not replacing, but inspecting and adjusting old spark plugs, then it is recommended to start inspecting them after a long (250-300 km) trip with a uniform engine operation (on a country road).
- The spark plug in an ideally running engine has minimal carbon deposits , and the skirt of the central electrode is painted light brown.
- If the center electrode of the spark plug is covered with black carbon deposits , this may indicate that the engine is running on a rich air-fuel mixture . The reasons for its formation may be: - Faulty injector. — Clogged air filter .
- If the spark plug electrode is white or light gray , then this indicates that the engine is running on a lean air-fuel mixture . An urgent adjustment of the settings is necessary, because this threatens to overheat the combustion chamber, right up to the burnout of the exhaust valves.
- If the spark plugs are red brick in color , change the fuel or gas station, because... The gasoline you use contains a large amount of additives. With prolonged use of such fuel, metal deposits (conductive deposits) form on the spark plugs. As a result, it begins to ignite the fuel mixture, rather than a spark between the electrodes of the spark plug.
- traces of oil on the spark plugs and the engine is using more oil than usual, the oil seals may need to be replaced .
- If the central electrode and skirt on the spark plug are covered with a layer of oil and remnants of unburned gasoline, as well as signs of destruction, the partition between the piston rings may be broken or one of the valves may be damaged. Also a sign of such a breakdown is an almost doubling of fuel consumption and a significant loss of power.
- If the spark plugs have electrodes covered with ash deposits, and blue smoke comes from the exhaust pipe, then the oil scraper piston rings have worn out .
Advice : due to the fact that the outer cylinders operate at lower temperatures than the middle ones, experts advise changing the spark plugs!
Auto parts for foreign cars, auto repair
Despite the improvements during operating mode, at idle I already began to notice some additional vibrations that were not there before. Increased noise at high speeds. I don’t consider this a direct deterioration in performance, it’s just that the spark plugs work differently in conditions that are not quite normal for them. This is not only because the mixture burns faster, but also because as the gap increases, the spark becomes less stable and “even”. You shouldn’t wait for things to worsen; that’s what the routine replacement of consumables is for, and not the replacement of a part due to actual failure.
The spark pierces the space along the path of least resistance and, with a critical increase in the gap, this path may not be to the side electrode. Candles made of refractory and erosion-resistant materials - platinum or iridium - are not subject to such rapid aging. How to change spark plugs on a Kia more and more often they are installed as standard, which is due, first of all, to the completely unacceptable service life of nickel spark plugs in new engines.
When choosing spark plugs for my MPI engine, at first I even decided on iridium spark plugs - installing them and how to change spark plugs on a Kia for about three years, but I remembered one detail - an official dealer.
I somehow don’t want to discuss the issue of no need for replacement with the dealer. It would be possible to replace good iridium spark plugs with new ones during maintenance, which would still be cheaper than several sets of nickel spark plugs during this period, but there is another reason for refusing iridium plugs - installing a part not approved by the manufacturer entails complicated proceedings in case of possible warranty claims. So, my choice remained with standard nickel candles.
It will be useful Intake air temperature sensor - what it looks like, where it is located, how to check, cleaning and replacing the air intake
If you don’t have a warranty, the warranty isn’t important, or the possible red tape isn’t scary, then I think it’s worth installing iridium spark plugs. However, you can install analogues that have similar parameters, for example, Champion RER8MC catalog number - Replacing spark plugs or adjusting the gaps - standard gaps - 1.1 mm may be needed ahead of schedule.
Signs of faulty spark plugs are: Replacing the spark plugs of a Kia Rio-3 To replace the spark plugs you will need: A 10 key, any key will do, but the head will be more convenient. Flat blade screwdriver. How to change spark plugs on a Kia 16 head with an extension.
Procedure for replacing spark plugs Attention! Replacement of spark plugs is carried out only on a cold engine! By looking at the spark plugs, you can determine what problems the car has with the fuel mixture or throttle assembly. If the electrode of the spark plug is white or light gray, then this indicates how to change spark plugs on a Kia with a lean air-fuel mixture.
If there are traces of oil on the spark plugs and the engine is using more oil than usual, the valve stem seals may need to be replaced. If the spark plugs are brick red, change the fuel or gas station, as the gasoline you are using contains a large amount of additives.
If the central electrode of the spark plug is covered with soot, this may indicate that the engine is running on a rich air-fuel mixture. If the spark plugs have electrodes covered with ash deposits, and blue smoke comes from the exhaust pipe, then the oil scraper piston rings have worn out.
If you have any questions, ask them in the comments below. It is better to carry out diagnostics after driving a kilometer on a calm road.