Transition to PM from monovrysk to carburetor (Installation of Solex carburetor on PM)
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Hello. I will try to make a report and format it correctly. PS This is my first time writing a report here.
Given: VW Passat B4, according to title, 1991. The engine, as it turns out, is PM (this is from Audi), with either an RP or AAM head. In general, only the devil knows. Electric fuel pump, distributor (without vacuum correction, the one that is controlled by the brain. I don’t know what to call it). It was clear that he was assembled from what came to hand. Of 2 broken Passats to be more precise. I drove it for 2 years until I figured out what was what. There were several reasons for switching to a carburetor: 1) It drove poorly. The acceleration dynamics are terrible, and recently, with the moon’s poor position in the sky, it has become difficult to accelerate it up to 80 km per hour. I don’t know, maybe it was due to the ebb/tide of the sea 2) Fuel consumption on the highway was 11 liters, in the city it was easily 15. It didn’t seem like a jeep. 3) Every day I worked at different idle speeds. But in the end, no matter how you set them, it was mostly 600 rpm and it shook a lot. 4) Dips during acceleration, drop in speed when releasing the gas pedal, up to “stop, master, tired.” 5) The XX sensor raped all the brains, analysis and cleaning helped for 2 days.
All sensors were checked, lambda, and in the end even the potentiometer was removed. Put back. The fuel pump, slider, distributor cap, and coil have been replaced. The result is absolutely zero. Setting the ignition to an earlier time helped a little, I drove a little faster, but again after a couple of days everything returned to normal. Maybe from the weather, from dampness. Don't know.
We went and installed a known working monique. I tried to set the ignition, but couldn’t find the mark on the (input shaft? I honestly don’t know what it’s called. Write, I’ll correct it. Where is the rubber plug, where is the box). Before this, we drew the mark ourselves, according to the position of the piston in the first cylinder. Everything was great. When installing a new monica, it is not visible and that's all, when using a strobe light. More precisely, it didn’t match at all. The car didn't move either. It just runs smoother and starts normally. It was then that they found out that the engine turned out to be PM, and not AAM, as the old owner said. The spark plugs revealed a lean mixture. Always. With any ignition. For some reason, the brains did not pour gasoline. (if the sensors are working).
And it was decided to install a carburetor.
The following were purchased: 1) DAAZ 21073 carburetor from Niva 1.7 (Solex is the same thing. More precisely, the DAAZ plant makes carburetors under a Solex license).
2) A spacer was made according to the drawing (in Yandex “adapter plate from mono injection to carburetor” is the first picture. I printed out the drawing and gave it to my father for work. The spacer had to be sanded with sandpaper. First with coarser sandpaper, then a little sandpaper 220. Spent about 3 hours with breaks for tea .
3) We bought 2 fuel hoses, one meter each, from a Lada (1 hose is enough) 4) We bought a flow-through fuel filter, also from a Lada 5) High-temperature sealant, up to 300g (not useful!)
6) 4 pcs of clamps for fuel hoses (but we need more clamps + 6 pieces bought in addition) 7) Regular gasket for the carburetor (we bought 2 more pcs. total = 3 pcs.)
Plastic gasket for the carburetor (so that less heat is transferred from the manifold and does not boil gasoline, and the carb did not drain away. This was read on the forums.). I bought both thinner and thicker ones. fortunately it costs a penny. (thinner ones are not needed. Only thick plastic ones) 9) 4 m8 studs, with a thread pitch of 1.25 from the Lada. (nuts for them! better with washers)
10) Tee for fuel hoses to make a return line. Because The electric fuel pump presses too much, there will be an attempt to return. If all else fails, I'll buy a mechanical fuel pump. (for everything to work, you need 1 more tee. 2 pieces in total) 11) You will need to buy an additional suction cable from the VAZ2109, a turtle from the Muscovite 2141. (under the turtle from the Muscovite, immediately buy a rubber gasket! To fasten the turtle, the original studs are not enough. You need long screws and washers) 12) Set for fastening the cable 13) Distributor with vacuum corrector from VW Passat b2 with PE engine. Jp Group 1191100100 Price: 1850 rubles
Carburetor installation is scheduled for tomorrow morning. Photos will be up tomorrow. The budget so far is 4,400 rubles. Carburetor 3960 with a discount of 200 rubles 3760 rubles. Almost 500 rubles worth of other small items. Everything is very cheap from our basins. A little shocked
Let's get to work. 1) Unscrew the monoinjector (remove all pipes, connectors, unscrew the turtle. There will be 4 bolts. I think everyone can handle it. Business for 5 minutes) 2) Screw the studs into the spacer, tighten them, only carefully. The thread can be torn off in one go. You can tighten them by screwing 2 nuts onto the stud. 3) To prevent air leaks, place gaskets on the manifold. Starting from the manifold: A thin gasket, our spacer, a thin gasket, a thick plastic one, and a thin one again. We fasten it to the manifold with the same screws that secured the monique. 4) Place the carburetor itself on the studs. Then I placed a larger washer and tightened it with nuts 5) We fasten the throttle cable using the purchased kit “Accelerator cable fastening kit” 6) We fasten the choke cable to a special screw. 7) Then we install the turtle from Moskvich 2141 with a gasket, and screw it to the carburetor with long screws
Mono-Jetronic injection system
Replacement, adjustment and setting of TPS (throttle position sensor) on Mono-motronic and Mono-Jetronic (rus.)
Photo report.
Repair of the motor in the idle air control (IAC) Mono-Motronic and Mono-Jetronic (rus.)
Photo report
Repair of ECU (ECU) of RP engine (Mono Jetronic), IAC control (rus.)
Photo report.
Repair of the XX sensor in the idle air regulator (IAC) Mono-Motronic and Mono-Jetronic (rus.)
Photo report
Repair of idle air control Mono-Jetronic / Motronic, modified version (rus.)
Photo report
Throttle valve freezing on Mono-Jetronic (rus.)
Photo + solution
EPR device (electronic pressure regulator) (rus.)
Photo report.
Service repair manual Mono-Jetronic (RP and 1F engines) and TSZ-H ignition system (rus.)
VW Passat 1988-1996: Mono-Jetronic injection system device, diagnostics (rus.)
VW Passat 1988-1996: Possible malfunctions of the Mono-Jetronic injection system and their elimination (rus.)
VW Passat B3-B4: Mono-Jetronic RP injection before 08/90 and Mono-Motronic AAM, ABS, ADZ, RP after 08/90 (rus.)
Repair manual for fuel injection systems (rus.)
Injection systems considered: Bosch KE-Jetronic, VAG Digijet, Bosch K-Jetronic, Bosch Mono-Jetronic, VAG Digifant, Bosch Motronic, Bosch KE-Motronic
Gasoline engine control systems (Bosch) (rus.)
The book contains detailed descriptions of gasoline engine control systems, provides insight into methods for diagnosing them, as well as ways to reduce exhaust gas toxicity. K-Jetronic, KE-Jetronic, Mono-Jetronic, Motronic. 73 MB.
BOSCH “Mono-Jetronic” injection system, 1.8 RP engine
Control unit Mono-Jetronic (eng.)
Control unit diagram
Bosch Mono-Jetronic (eng.)
Electronically Controlled Gasoline Fuel-Injection System With Lambda Closed Loop Control Bosch technical instruction book.
Contents: The Spark-Ignition Engines: The 4-stroke cycle, Fuel management, Adaption to operating conditions, Fuel-management systems.
Mono-Jetronic Fuel-Injection System: System overview, Fuel delivery, Operating-data acquisition, Operation-data processing, Central injection unit, Power supply. Emissions Control: Exhaust-gas constituents, Catalytic after treatment. Engine-Management System Mono-Motronic: Injection subsystem, Ignition subsystem. 30 pages. 20 Mb. Diagram of the electronic control unit (ECU) for the Mono-Jetronic engine (eng.)
Pinout of injection control units for VAG cars (eng.)
Bosch Motronic, Bosch Mono-Jetronic, Bosch Mono-Motronic, VAG Digijet, VAG Digifant, Magnetti-Marelli, Simos, Bosch Digijet.
Mono-Jetronic, Construction und Funktion. Part1 (ger.)
Operating principle,
Mono-Jetronic device, Construction und Funktion.
Part2 (ger.) Operating principle, device
How can I find the information I need here?
Decoding the factory equipment of the car (English) Decoding the factory equipment of VAG in Russian! Diagnostics of
Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda, Seat, error codes.
If you have not found information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car. Most likely, the information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car.
vwts.ru
Volkswagen Passat Blue beast › Logbook › Conversion from mono to carburetor
Good afternoon, dear friends, I was tired of the faulty operation of the mono injection and decided to install a carburetor, many dissuaded me, they said find a smart electrician and everything will be fine, but no one knows where to find him. In general, I got my act together and went to buy a carburetor, all kinds, original, China, etc. I had a choice between crap Chinese and factory...which one do you think I chose? Shitty China...because I didn’t see the difference. I bought a carburetor from a Lada 8, completely mechanical with mechanical suction through a cable, I came home and my friend and I started making an adapter plate... I’ll tell you right away if you don’t have special equipment, it’s better to buy it right away, it’s not expensive, around 5,000 tenge. or 1,000 rub. and you’ll save time... we made this stove for about 2.5 hours, we were completely tired, but we didn’t stop there... we started installing it - everything fit like original, but we forgot that we needed an air vent for a different carburetor, here’s some kind of PPC, with mono injection is no longer suitable, since the size and mounting are different...
We installed it, started it, everything works great, and then BAM: the entire manifold is filled with gasoline, let’s think about how to avoid this moment, we found a guy on YouTube telling how to get around it, we went to a hardware store, took a metal tee (small size) and started connecting it, as they say in video...the return line on the carburetor is tightly shut off, and you harden the flow, voila, the carburetor no longer overflows...
Today I went and bought a turtle for the carburetor air vent and installed it. The car works like a clock, I tied all the electronic parts from the mono injection with electrical tape and put it away. I'm quite happy with the carburetor's performance. Don't be afraid to install Chinese items, as they can last longer than the original - if done correctly. This is the experience of reconstruction from a mono to a carburetor that I had. I advise everyone who is suffering from mono - switch to a carburetor: there will be no problems... Good luck to everyone, bye everyone!
At prices: 1) Carburetor: 16,000 tenge. = 2.860 rub. 2) Gasket: 500 tenge. = 90 rub. 3) Choke cable: 1,500 tenge. = 270 rub. 4) Round drill for metal for holes for the carburetor in the adapter plate: 1,200 tenge. = 215 rub. 5) Drill diameter 8 for metal: 600 tenge. = 110 rub. 6) Turtle for the carburetor air vent from the Muscovite AZLK: 3,500 tenge. = 625 rub. 7) Autosil sealant: 500 tenge. = 90 rub.
Features of starting a diesel engine
Volkswagen Passat of any model range was equipped with diesel internal combustion engines, which are marked TDI. In addition to the problems common to gasoline engines, the diesel engine has its own characteristics:
- a more powerful battery is needed;
- proper operation of the glow plugs;
- at low temperatures it is necessary to use winter diesel fuel;
- At temperatures below -20, it is recommended to use the antigel fuel additive.
Diesel engines are more sensitive to reduced compression in the cylinders - starting an internal combustion engine with low compression is almost impossible, since the mixture ignites during compression.
Modern diesel internal combustion engines, for example the popular 2.0 TDI engine with the letter designation BMR, with direct injection, have problems starting over time due to a breakdown of the injector pump. To diagnose this unit, you need special equipment and an experienced specialist.
Repair and adjustment of single injection
Information applicable to car repairs:
Volkswagen Passat B4 / Volkswagen Passat B4 (3A2) 1994 - 1997 Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B4 (3A5) 1994 - 1997
Volkswagen Passat B3 / Volkswagen Passat B3 (312) 1988 - 1994 Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B3 (315) 1988 - 1994
Volkswagen Golf 3 / Volkswagen Golf 3 (1H1, 1H5) 1992 - 1998 Volkswagen Vento / Volkswagen Vento (1H2) 1992 - 1998
Volkswagen Golf 2 / Volkswagen Golf 2 (191, 192, 193, 194) 1984 - 1988 Volkswagen Jetta 2 / Volkswagen Jetta 2 (165, 166, 167, 168) 1984 - 1988 Volkswagen Golf 2 / Volkswagen Golf 2 (1G1) 1989 - 1992 Volkswagen Jetta 2 / Volkswagen Jetta 2 (1G2) 1989 - 1992
SEAT Toledo / Seat Toledo (1L)
The procedure is also suitable for other vehicles with Mono motronic injection system
There have already been many similar topics, but questions continue to arise. Since I’ve already worked on my own, I’ll share it and let there be another one with pictures, like instructions. I started having periodic problems with idle, either it would stall in wet weather, or it would rev the next day after it froze. Yes, in fact, it’s time to work on injection because I haven’t touched it for several years... We start with the coolant temperature sensor (DTOZ), remove it and put it in a “saucepan”, for example, a tin can, you will also need a thermometer, a multimeter, snow from the street or ice from refrigerator, small stove. My thermometer “shook off” and I used the temperature sensor of the multimeter. Let's take the sensor, I have one, it's 10 years old:
We put snow or ice in the jar so that the temperature is about 0 and take the first measurement, then turn on the stove and take measurements approximately every 10 degrees until it boils at 100*C. There should be about a centimeter of snow so that the metal part of the sensor is immersed and water does not get on the contacts. My measurements: 0*C 7.25 kOhm 12*C 4 kOhm 20*C 2.75 kOhm 30*C 1.89 kOhm 40*C 1.34 kOhm 50*C 1 kOhm 60*C 665 Ohm 70*C 500 Ohm 80*С 360 Ohm 90*С 276 Ohm 100*С 188 Ohm And compare with the graph from the forum:
My readings are quite close and what is called “will work”.
Let's move on to the intake air temperature sensor (IATV), first you should check the wiring from the connector to the element ("crystal", "tablet" ...). Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos... Both wires showed too high resistance, one was about 5 ohms, the other was almost 200 ohms, which means that the conductors in the injector cover have become acidic and need to be duplicated. To do this, I cut out the grooves with a drill, laid out new wires and soldered them to the connector pins and the element itself. Then I covered it with poxypol, or maybe epoxy, etc. Drill:
How to set the ignition on an Audi 80 b3/how to set the ignition. - video
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Passat b3 engine starts poorly and troits.
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Looking for a job? There is an excellent vacancy in a large taxi company. Flexible schedule, quick processing, up to 80,000 rubles per month. Register: https://goo.gl/XzMsej We discuss faults in contact: https://vk.
com/club_autotema Trouble engine, reasons: 0:09 1st reason - spark plugs 0:42 2nd reason - high voltage wires 1:08 3rd reason - ignition module 2:06 4th reason for tripping - fuel mixture 2:33 5th reason - incorrect timing marks 2:52 6th reason - injector operation 3:25 7th reason - low compression in one or more cylinders It often happens that the engine misfires.
Is it a VAZ or a foreign car? This manifests itself in the uneven operation of the engine. One or even several cylinders are not working. Due to the fact that the engine is running, fuel consumption increases significantly. The power and traction characteristics of the engine decrease. The engine can throttle both at idle and at speed or when cold.
