Solex carburetor 21083 – design, adjustment and tuning

The majority of VAZ cars of the Samara family, and in particular the VAZ-2109, came off the assembly line with a carburetor power system, and only later a small series received injectors. The carburetor system has a simple design and is quite reliable, but its main component, the carburetor, requires periodic adjustment. The VAZ-2109 and other models of the family were equipped with Solex carburetors, characterized by a relatively simple adjustment technology that every car enthusiast can perform.

There are two main carburetor settings - the fuel level in the float chambers and the engine speed at idle (idle). These adjustments are carried out when the engine is unstable at idle and when certain symptoms of improper operation of the power system appear:

These problems indicate that the fuel level in the chamber is not normal.

Setting the fuel level

Adjusting the amount of fuel in the chambers of Solex carburetors is a simple procedure and does not require specialized equipment. Although in the factory this adjustment is performed using a special template, which simplifies and speeds up the work. But at home you can do without this template. To carry out adjustment work yourself you need:

screwdrivers (phillips, flat);
ruler (preferably a caliper);
round rod with a diameter of 2 mm (wire or drill will do).

With such equipment you can quickly complete all work.

Adjusting the starter

The starting device can be adjusted when removed. Before adjustment, it is necessary to check the condition of the diaphragm. The part often fails, so it must be replaced with a new one immediately after detecting deformations. Setting up the starter occurs in five stages:

Closing the air damper. To do this, you need to turn the drive lever.
Changing the location of the rod. Using a screwdriver or other object, the starter rod is retracted while adjustment work is carried out.
Measuring gaps. After the rod is recessed, the valve opens slightly. You need to measure the distance between the damper and the chamber wall. The indicators are checked against the parameters declared by the manufacturer and, if necessary, adjustments are made.
Setting up the trigger mechanism. If a discrepancy between the gap sizes is detected, adjustments are made. To do this, turn the screw using a screwdriver. When the screw is unscrewed, the gap increases, and when screwed in, it decreases.
Throttle chamber clearance measurement. The air damper must be tightly closed. The gap dimensions are indicated in the manual, which simplifies the process of adjusting the position of the throttle chamber. Adjustment is also done using hardware.

Recommended Method

Level control technology includes a number of stages:

We dismantle the housing of the air filter element. To do this, unscrew the fastening nut of the housing cover, unclip the latches, remove the cover, take out the filter and tighten the 4 nuts that secure the housing to the carburetor.
Raise the body and disconnect the rubber pipes. We move the body to the side.
Loosen the clamps securing the fuel pipes going to the carburetor and disconnect them.
Remove the wire suitable for the idle speed solenoid valve;
Disconnect the drive cable of the air damper (the “choke” handle);
Unscrew the 5 screws securing the carburetor cover;
Having removed the cover, we immediately determine the fuel level in the chambers by lowering a ruler or caliper into one of them until it stops (using its depth gauge). If the measurement shows a level of 25-26 mm, it corresponds to the norm and no adjustment is required;

If the amount of fuel in the chamber is lower or higher than normal, we perform a visual inspection and a series of measurements on the floats, and if necessary, we correct their position.

To carry out adjustment work, place the removed carburetor cover on a flat horizontal surface with the floats facing up.

First, we look at the position of the elements from above. The outer side surfaces of the floats are parallel to the special imprints on the gasket. Deviations can cause the floats to touch adjacent elements and surfaces, causing the fuel level to be incorrect. If necessary, adjust the position of the floats by bending their mounting arms. The next step is to measure the gap between the floats and the gasket. A rod with a diameter of 2 mm is useful here - this is how much the specified gap should be.

If it does not correspond, we bend the tongue of the floats, with which they act on the locking needle. After this adjustment, we check the total height of the floats, which is normally 34 mm. If this is not the case, check the gap again, adjust it if necessary and measure the height again.

The last stage of setup is determining the working stroke of the floats. To do this, place a caliper near the float, mark the distance from its lower corner to the surface of the cover, then lift the float with your hand and mark where the lower corner is.

A working stroke of 15 mm is considered normal; if it differs, it is adjusted by bending the tongue.

Adjustment (step by step)

The problem with carburetor repair and adjustment is that the process must be carried out in conditions of cleanliness and maximum care. The HRV can malfunction even due to small specks in the tubes. Nevertheless, car owners can configure the control unit themselves.

What you will need

The adjustment process does not involve removing the carburetor; everything is done live. To work, you will need a flat table and a clean piece of light-colored fabric. We cover the table with fabric and place it next to the hood of the car. We lay out the necessary tools on the table: keys, pliers, Phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver, ruler.

A vacuum cleaner and car air compressor may also be needed. A book on repairing a VAZ 2109 with a description of the components of the control unit, so that you can look there if necessary.

Below we will describe the process of adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber and setting the idle speed in stages.

Adjusting the fuel fluid level in the float chamber

There is no point in talking about fuel economy if the gasoline level is higher or lower than normal. To return to normal consumption, it is necessary to carry out a number of manipulations:

After unscrewing the nut and opening the clamps, remove the cover of the filter mechanism housing and pull out the filter.
Unfasten the EMG wire and hoses going to the carburetor.
Loosen the 5 screws of the HRV cover and remove it.
Lower a ruler to the bottom of the HRV chambers to determine the liquid level. If the measurements are 25-26 mm, then everything is normal and no adjustment is needed. If it is higher or lower than normal, we carry out further manipulations.
Turn the removed lid over with the floats facing up and place it on the table.
Adjust the floats by tightening the fasteners.
Important rules for setting floats must be observed. They must be installed parallel to each other and vertically without distortion.
Measure the gap between the floats and the gasket; it should be 2 mm. Otherwise, bend the tongue that acts on the support needle.
Final stage. Identify the working stroke of the floats. If the floats are raised all the way up, the distance should not be more than 15 mm. A similar size should be achieved by bending the tabs.

Idle adjustment

In case of malfunctions of this kind, the engine runs intermittently at low speeds. You can also do the procedure yourself:

Warm up the engine, then turn off and let it cool.
Remove the filtration part of the heater and unscrew the EMG valve.
Turn on the engine.
Plug the idle air passage with your hand and apply the gas in this manner several times.
Turn off the engine
Blow out the EMG with a compressor, clearing it of dust and debris.
Install all parts in place.
Carry out the last manipulation to control the quality of work. To do this, you need to start the engine again. If the idle speed begins to work normally, it means the adjustment was successful.

More accurate adjustments can be made using special equipment - a gas analyzer. With its help, you can achieve not only high-quality adjustment of mechanisms, but also achieve greater environmental friendliness of the vehicle. However, such a unit is rare.

You can make the adjustment without this device, following the instructions. CU tuning depends on the car owner’s care and attention to the unit.

Alternative way

There is a simpler method for determining the correct position of the floats, which does not require measurements. Place the carburetor cover on a flat table and look at the stampings made on the side surfaces. When the floats are in a normally adjusted position, these strips are parallel to the lid.

Then we lift the floats up and look at their bottom, which after lifting should be parallel to the surface of the lid. If necessary, adjust the position of the floats by bending the tongue.

After adjustment work, we assemble the carburetor.

Idle speed adjustment

The second setting of the VAZ-2109 carburetor is idle speed, it can be partial or full. The first is for minor speed adjustments, the second is for adjusting the amount of air (setting CO emissions in the exhaust gases).

Partial adjustment is performed using the air-fuel mixture “amount” screw. This screw sets the opening angle of the throttle valves, which ensures that the air-fuel mixture enters the cylinders when the accelerator pedal is released. The “quantity” screw rests on the throttle valve control lever and when screwed in, it pushes the lever, causing the valves to open slightly.

Partial idle adjustment is performed with a warm engine and creating a load on the vehicle's on-board network by turning on the high beam headlights and the interior heater at full power. The adjustment is carried out with the engine running by screwing in/unscrewing the “quantity” screw until the optimal idle speed is established, which for the VAZ-2109 is 800-900 rpm (this can be tracked using a standard or plug-in tachometer).

If it is not possible to set the required speed or the motor operates unstably at it, a complete adjustment is made, which is made by two screws - “quantity” and “quality”.

The algorithm for this adjustment consists of the following stages:

Warm up the engine and then turn it off;
We find the quality screw (it may be closed with a plug that will have to be removed), screw it in until it stops, and then unscrew it 3-4 full turns;
We start the engine, turn on electrical consumers (lighting and stove) to create a load in the on-board network;
By rotating the “quantity” screw, we achieve 700-800 rpm on the tachometer;
By turning the “quality” screw, we set the maximum possible speed (they will increase to a certain level, and then stop. The moment the speed increase stops is considered the maximum);
We set the “quantity” screw to 900 rpm;
Using the “quality” screw we lower them to 800 rpm;
We slowly tighten the “quality” screw until interruptions appear in the operation of the power plant, after which we unscrew it back 1 turn;
We adjust the speed with the “quantity” screw, bringing it to a normal value - 800-900 rpm;

We set the quality of the fuel mixture

This carburetor adjustment on the VAZ-2109 can be done with your own hands and it is not necessary to visit specialists. The quality is very easy to set. To do this, the engine is thoroughly warmed up, and then using a screw to adjust the number of revolutions, the idle speed is set to about 900 per minute.

Next, the quality screw is tightened until the engine begins to operate intermittently. Then it is turned away again. It is recommended to unscrew until stable operation, namely until the speed stops increasing. In the position of the quality screw where the speed is highest, you need to stop and remove the high speed with the quantity screw.

The design of the VAZ-2109 carburetor

The first front-wheel drive VAZ cars went into production in 1985. The Togliatti plant began producing three-door 2108 models equipped with a 1.3-liter gasoline engine. Somewhat later, conveyor production of 5-door “nines” was established, and new 1.1 and 1.5 liter engines (modifications 21081 and 21083) also appeared.

AvtoVAZ has developed its own carburetor for each engine size, but externally the CUs are practically no different from each other, the difference lies only in the metering elements located inside the body and the nameplate with the model designation. Unlike classic Ozones, Solexes have a body of only two parts, and not three - this is the main section with a platform for installation on the engine and the top cover.

The design of the VAZ-2109 carburetor has its own characteristics, but in general it contains the same parts as another similar unit for domestic passenger cars of the nineties and early two thousand. This HRSG is an emulsion type, two-chamber, with sequential opening of the chambers, for more stable operation it is equipped with liquid heating (antifreeze or antifreeze poured into the cooling system is used).

For full operation in any mode and optimal dosing of the air-fuel mixture, the following systems are provided:

the main dosing one is the main one, its elements are present in both chambers (air and fuel supply nozzles, diffusers, emulsion tubes);
idle speed (idle), ensures stable operation of the internal combustion engine at low speed, economical consumption of gasoline;
transition from the first chamber to the second, serves to prevent jerks and failures when the valve of the second chamber opens;
accelerator pump supplies an additional portion of fuel at the moment of sharp acceleration of the car, due to which the speed is gained smoothly, without jerking;
economizer, enriches the fuel mixture at high speeds of the internal combustion engine (ICE) and increased loads;
starting device allows the engine to start without problems in any cold weather:
float chamber maintains the required level of gasoline regardless of load and speed.

When parts of the carburetor unit wear out, become clogged or fail, various malfunctions appear, such as loss of power, uneven engine operation, increased fuel consumption, engine stopping when releasing gas, etc. Only a specialist can independently deal with all the intricacies of the repair, but many drivers are able to clean, adjust and tune the carburetor with their own hands.

Solex 21083 carburetor design

There are different versions of the Solex carburetor, but 21083 is the basic version of the device, the cross-section of the diffusers of which is minimal. This carburetor is designed for installation on a 1.5-liter VAZ car engine. It is Solex 21083 that is in great demand, since from this model Solex can be made into various modifications. In addition, it is possible to machine the carburetor to the required diffuser size.

According to official data, installing a Colex 21083 carburetor is undesirable for power units whose displacement is much larger than 1.5 liters, since the engine will be “choked” at high speeds. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that the model in question supplies a lean mixture, and therefore, in order to obtain normal speed indicators on the UZAM motor, the jets will have to be replaced. Let's look at an example of setting up this carburetor on the above-mentioned power unit.

Removing and installing the carburetor

Installation and dismantling is carried out in case of repair of this unit, its complete replacement, as well as for thorough washing and cleaning. The AHU can become clogged if the car is driven on dusty roads, as well as as a result of untimely replacement of the air filter element.

Removing and installing a VAZ-2109 carburetor is very simple; even with the initial skills of a car mechanic, almost any driver (car owner) can do such work with his own hands. We perform the dismantling operation as follows:

turn off the ignition, open the hood, remove the top cover, the filter element, then unscrew the four nuts securing the air filter housing (AFC);
loosening the clamps, disconnect the fuel hoses, unscrew the two fastenings of the choke cable, move the cable to the side, disconnect the wire chips of the solenoid valve and the throttle valve closing sensor;
We also disconnect the throttle cable, having previously removed the return spring, the ignition angle advance hose, and unscrew the nuts securing the carburetor itself (also 4 pieces);
in order not to lose antifreeze and not to disconnect the coolant pipes, it is easier to unscrew the screw securing the heating unit, but it is located at the back of the housing, not in the most accessible place;
in this case, lift up the unscrewed carburetor, move it forward, find a position in which it would be convenient to dismantle this fastener;
Now nothing prevents you from removing the entire assembly.

If the KU is thoroughly stuck to the studs and does not pull off, you can gently tap it at the base with a small hammer and shake it with your hands from side to side. As a rule, after several attempts the device gives in; after removing it, you can begin further planned operations; installation of the unit is carried out in the reverse order.

Dismantling

Before setting up the VAZ-2109 carburetor with your own hands, you need to blow it out and rinse it. This process begins with dismantling the device. It's very easy to do. Simply turn off the ignition and remove the air filter housing. Then remove the spring that is installed on the air damper actuator.

After this, disconnect the throttle cable. The next step is to unscrew the fastening that holds the choke cable. All that remains is to unscrew the nuts that hold the device body in place. After this, you can completely remove the device.

Basic faults

Any malfunctions of the 2109 carburetor affect the performance of the engine: the engine may stall when the speed is reduced, run intermittently, not develop power, and consume gasoline beyond the norm. There are many reasons for problems with this unit, but the most typical of them are:

clogging of the HDS and idle jets, both air and fuel, and in the solenoid valve (EMV);
rupture (defect) of the accelerator pump diaphragm;
failure of the EMG itself;
loose fit of the locking mechanism needle to the seat;
air leakage through the junction of the body and the cover;
leakage of the float in the float chamber;
clogging of the accelerator pump nozzle with dirt;
misadjustment of screws XX.

Adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber

Maintaining a normal level of gasoline in the float chamber is an important condition; if it is not met, malfunctions in the operation of the car occur:

if the level is below normal, the engine does not have enough speed, power decreases, and gasoline consumption increases;
if it is higher than required, fuel consumption also increases, and even more.

Setting the fuel level for the VAZ-2108-09-099 is quite simple, and in this case it is not at all necessary to remove the carburetor. The procedure for adjusting the position of the floats is as follows:

remove the KVF assembly with the filter element;
disconnect the choke cable, fuel hoses, EMG power cable;
unscrew the five screws securing the carburetor cover;
turn the lid over, take a drill with a thickness of 1 to 2 mm and take a measurement between the gasket and the lower surface of the floats - this distance should be exactly within these limits, and the same.

You can also measure the fuel level, but before carrying out such a procedure, it is necessary for the engine to idle for several minutes. The distance from the upper edge of the housing to the surface of the gasoline is measured; according to factory conditions, it should be 25-26 mm. Another way is to measure the distance from the gasket to the top edge of the floats with a caliper; it is 34 mm (with the cover upside down).

Another measurement method is using a specially made template.

Important conditions when setting the level:

the floats must be located parallel to each other, along the lid;
they are installed strictly vertically, without distortions;
when lifting the float pair all the way up, the distance from their lower corners to the gasket should be within 15 mm;
the adjustment of the extreme positions during adjustment is carried out by bending the tabs on both sides;

If the floats inside the chamber are installed skewed or not strictly vertical, they may rub against the walls of the housing, causing gasoline to overflow as a result of sticking.

Idle speed adjustment

The most common problem with a Solex carburetor is the disappearance of normal idle speed; the engine begins to operate intermittently at low speeds. Very often, the cause of such a malfunction is either a clogged EMG jet or the solenoid valve itself. It is very easy to check this - while the engine is running at idle, we disconnect the wiring from the EMG; if the nature of the internal combustion engine does not change at all, and when the valve is unscrewed, the speed increases noticeably, then the defect is present.

You can try to restore normal operation of the XX without removing the entire assembly, and this procedure is quite simple:

With the engine off, remove the air filter with housing:
disconnect the EMG wire, unscrew the valve itself;
we start the engine, plugging the “idle” channel with a finger, “accelerate” several times;
we stop the engine, do not forget to blow out the EMG and its nozzle using a compressor or hand pump, separating these parts from each other;
we put the parts in place, do a test start of the internal combustion engine: if the idle speed has stabilized, and when the wiring was removed, the speed changed, it means that the reason was precisely the blockage, and now the idle speed has “returned to normal.”

But it is not always possible to clean the channel in this way; specks may get stuck in the area of the quality screw. Here you already need to remove and disassemble the carburetor, dismantle the screw, which in general is not very difficult, since it is located deep in the channel and is held there by a rubber sealing ring.

Adjusting the ignition angle

Sluggish acceleration of the car and instability of the idle speed are also often associated with incorrectly set ignition; this procedure is mainly carried out in car repair shops using special equipment. But if you wish, it’s easy to make the adjustment yourself, and without a strobe, and quite accurately:

with the engine stopped, loosen the three nuts securing the distributor (the third fastening is located at the bottom, it is not visible from above);
we start the car, turn the distributor-distributor clockwise (to “+”), and if the ignition was late, the idle speed will increase noticeably;
we select the optimal position of the distributor (the operation of the internal combustion engine should be smooth, without failures), reduce the speed using the quantity screw, turn off the engine, fix the distributor-distributor with one nut for now, and check the results of the ignition adjustment on the fly.

If, under heavy load and sharp acceleration, your fingers begin to noticeably “knock” (engine detonation appears), you should move the distributor a little to “minus”, then check the car again while driving. This way you can set the ignition quite accurately, and sometimes even better than with a strobe light.

Features and malfunctions of the starting device

With the onset of frost, many owners of “nines” are faced with the problem of poor cold starting of the engine, and the cause of the malfunction is often the starting device (PU), which is designed to enrich the fuel mixture in a certain proportion. When the choke cable is pulled, the air damper closes, but under the influence of vacuum it changes its position, opening slightly and to some extent allowing air to pass into the carburetor. The position of the air intake is also adjusted using a diaphragm device, which is mechanically connected to the damper by a system of rods.

Common faults

A well-maintained and properly tuned carb will not cause any problems to its owner. But often this does not happen. Elements break, and there are fewer and fewer carburetor specialists. Let's look at the main problems with these devices.

Most often, malfunctions occur with the accelerator pump. Its main function is to enrich the fuel mixture. During the operation of the car, as well as due to poor-quality fuel filters, the pump becomes clogged. As a result, dips appear and the car “does not move.” The situation can be corrected by disassembling and cleaning the carburetor (in particular, the accelerator pump).

Problems with idle speed also often occur. Usually the idle jet and solenoid valve are to blame. The EPHH unit also fails. The GDS jets also become clogged.

Quality screw removal method

With Solex carburetors, the XX channel in the body itself often becomes clogged, and in order to clear it thoroughly, it is necessary to remove the quality screw. But this screw, as mentioned above, has a very tight fit and is not easy to get out. There are several methods for dismantling a part; we will consider only one option.

We take a piece of an old antenna from any radio receiver, select the outer diameter so that the tube fits into the channel of the carburetor body, usually the outer thickness of the “puller” is about 4 mm. We cut off a small piece, make a cut at one end (about 1 cm deep), use another quality screw (a spare one, or you can buy it specially in a store), and check how tightly the tube fits onto the head of the screw.

Now you can unscrew the screw and use a homemade puller to remove it from the KU body.

Adjusting carburetors is a delicate process and requires some caution. In order to obtain the desired result, the idle speed is usually adjusted. So, here is a standard carburetor for a VAZ 2109:

The “quantity” and “quality” screws with which the carburetor is calibrated are clearly visible here.

Fine adjustments are not made with the engine running. This is important - don't forget. What to do:

Warm up the engine and turn it off.
Take the mixture quality screw. First you need to tighten it to the limit. Then unscrew it four or five turns. As a result, we get a completely enriched mixture.
Next, we do the same with the quantity screw, but unscrew it three turns.
The preheated engine can now be started.
Using the quantity screw you need to adjust the idle speed. The limit is 800 rpm.
Now, slowly tighten the mixture quality screw. An important point is that the gas distribution mechanism, ignition and the carburetor itself must be in good working order!
We adjust the speed further. They will grow a little at first. Then they will become less stable. As you continue to tighten the screw, they will become smaller. As soon as you notice that the speed is unstable, you can unscrew the screw half a turn.
Next, we correct the speed using the quantity screw. Don't forget to check the number of revolutions under increased loads - with the oven on, for example. In winter, even from the usual 850 rpm, you should raise it to 1000.

Communities › VAZ: Repair and Modification › Blog › Tuning the carburetor 2109

So I’ll tell you how to properly adjust the carburetor. I set it up myself.

We remove the carburetor from the car and drag it to where we will clean it (I did this at home) We buy a gasket for the carburetor and a new sprayer in advance.

First, unscrew the idle air valve and spray carburetor cleaning fluid into the hole, then blow it out (I blew it out with a pump). repeat the steps several times.

Let's halve the carburetor by unscrewing 5 screws. We put the new gasket on the half with the floats and, bending the tendril, set the level of the floats. There should be 5-6 mm from the gasket to the bottom of the float.

Next, take the sprayer and bend the second spout into the first chamber. I bent it with pliers, carefully. We pour gasoline into the chamber and, by pressing the throttle drive, make sure that both nozzles spray exactly into the hole. NOT on the damper, NOT on the wall, but definitely in the hole!

Next, we clean the jets, all the membranes, and so on) If desired, wipe the outside as well) After we assemble the carburetor) we blow all the channels with air again. We tighten the idle air valve by hand. And we take it to put it on the car.

We install it, connect everything.

Adjusting idle speed. (6 points Taken from the Internet) 1 – Pre-set the quality screw to the position – 5-6 turns out from the extreme screwed state. 2 – The speed screw is turned out until the vacuum disappears in the vacuum tube going to the ignition distributor (distributor). If, with this position of the adjusting screws, the warmed-up engine “holds” idle speed in the range from 500 to 1500 rpm, then this means that the carburetor, or rather its idle system, engine and ignition system “in general” are in order and you can continue adjusting. 3 – If the engine speed is more than 800 rpm, then reduce it to 800 by unscrewing the “quantity” screw. If the engine speed is less than 800, then we do not touch the “quantity” screw yet. (The speed will most likely rise when adjusting the “quality”) 4 – We begin to tighten the “quality” screw, achieving uniform, stable operation of the engine, then we turn the screw even deeper, until unstable operation appears and again we return to the zone of stable operation of the motor. The main task is to install the adjusting screw in the “zone” of stable engine operation, with the mixture as lean as possible (the deeper the screw is turned, the leaner the mixture, the lower the CO content). 5 – Set the “required” idle speed using the “quantity” screw, not forgetting about the vacuum in the vacuum tube. (The “required” idle speed is 800 – 900 rpm for the summer season and 900 – 1000 rpm for the winter, for beginners and “racers”.) 6 – To more accurately adjust the action of points 4 and 5, repeat again.

If the speed is still floating, then slowly unscrew the idle air valve. The revs should go up. We lower them to 900 using the quantity screw. And the swimming will stop.

That's it) setup and cleaning is completed. In my case, the idle speed is kept perfect. Acceleration is noticeable, without jerks. The revs rise and fall smoothly. I took the photo on my phone, so the quality is not very good. If it is not clear, then ask, I will answer all questions)

Work on adjusting Solex carburetors

The standard adjustment of the Solex VAZ 2109 carburetor is slightly different. This is due to the very design of these carburetors. What are the main differences?

In this diagram you can see the design of Solex carburetors. Here the idle speed is regulated somewhat differently. This is done using the throttle stop screw of the first chamber. In the picture it is number 1.

The second significant difference is that the mixture quality screw (numbered 2 in the figure above) has eleven turns.

To illustrate how precise adjustment of the VAZ 2109 carburetor is carried out, video is the best option.

If you have a VAZ 2109 car, you can find out how to adjust the carburetor by watching this video. Here we talk about the process of adjusting the VAZ carburetor at idle. This video is also perfect for those who decide to tune the VAZ 2109:

It is also important to know how to properly adjust the valves of the VAZ 2109 carburetor that you want to configure.

We have already talked about how to disassemble a VAZ 2109 carburetor in previous articles, which provided a description and diagrams.

When you are trying to repair a VAZ 2109 carburetor, adjustment is one of the most important points.

Next, we invite you to watch a video that will help you understand how to adjust the VAZ 2109 carburetor float:

As you can see for yourself, this process is not at all complicated. Correct adherence to the instructions will help you set up the VAZ 2109 carburetor without any difficulties.

We recommend watching:

How to properly adjust a Solex carburetor
How to adjust the carburetor on a VAZ 2109 Solex
VAZ 2109 carburetor diagram with description
How to adjust the carburetor on oka 1111
How to set the fuel level in a Solex carburetor
Solex 21083 mixture quality adjustment

Signs of a Solex carburetor malfunction

Before adjusting the carburetor on a VAZ 2109, you need to familiarize yourself with the associated faults so as not to repair the unit just like that.

So, the reason after which the VAZ 2109 carburetor is adjusted is considered:

Fuel mixture too rich. Experienced auto mechanics know that for an ideal ratio of fuel and air, a value of 1 to 15 is required. This means that for the combustion of 1 kg of fuel, 15 kg of air are needed. If the mixture is called rich, it means that the fuel level is higher than the nominal level.

Symptoms: the engine is difficult to start, black smoke from the exhaust pipe, spark plugs with black soot and lumbago in the exhaust system. The fuel supply system quickly becomes clogged.

The following signs can be called a consequence of the previous ones and this is:

Unstable idle speed;
Increased fuel consumption;
Deterioration of starting properties;
Reduced engine response.

The operating principle of the carburetor and fuel supply system forces car owners to perform such a procedure as adjusting the VAZ 2109 carburetor at least once every six months. The mechanism on a car with a carb needs to be lubricated once a month, unlike a car with injection, which has injectors. Everything is extremely easy to adjust.