How to change the valve seat on a VAZ 2106

How to replace valve stem seals on a VAZ-2106

If you are here, then you are the proud owner of a VAZ-2106 car that has some problems. Perhaps you enjoy watching persistent foreign cars trail behind your “six” and swallow the gray exhaust, but small, unnoticeable caps, like a candle that burned Moscow, can lead to the death of the entire engine, and therefore turn your iron horse into a modest example of real estate. The decision to fix the car was absolutely correct, and with some skill you will quickly deal with the problem.

How to replace valve stem seals yourself?

We all get very upset when our car starts to consume too much gasoline or oil (exceeding the norm). Extra expenses, long-term repairs, more troubles. The first warning sign that the engine has begun to burn engine oil excessively can definitely be the appearance of gray-blue smoke from the exhaust pipe of the car. If you see this smoke, know that the valve seals have deteriorated and have expired, causing oil to burn in the combustion chambers, which means they must be replaced. Let's look at how to replace valve stem seals on a VAZ 2109, to take a simpler and more understandable car as an example.

Before work

The combustion chamber of the engine must be protected from foreign substances, so the cylinders need protection from oil.
This is where valve stem seals, or oil seals, come into play, protecting the combustion chamber as the valve stems move. Over time, they lose elasticity and the quality of their work decreases. Nothing prevents oil from getting where it shouldn't be. If you notice that the exhaust has become bluish and thick, soot or even soot has appeared on the spark plugs, and your VAZ-2106 eats oil like gasoline, then it is very likely that the problem with the seals has affected you too. You need to have the courage to open the hood and examine the problem. Perhaps the entire gas distribution mechanism needs to be replaced, but for now we will only talk about the caps: if we really strain ourselves, then do it systematically.

The design of valve stem seals is not very complicated, although there are both high-quality samples and short-lived ones. They consist of the following parts:

Frame. Steel bushing that guarantees the strength of the seal.
A spring that applies pressure to the valve stem and ensures a tight seal.
The cap itself removes any remaining lubricant from the rod. Made from elastic materials such as rubber or fluoroplastic. It is this part of the structure that hardens.

To prepare to replace the valve stem seals, you will need to find some tools. If you wish, you can do the work without them, trying to use available analogues, but who needs to hammer a nail with a cigarette lighter when a hammer has been invented. You will need:

puller, tweezers or pliers for removing old caps;
valve depressurizer for compressing springs;
mandrel for installing oil seals;
a rod or tube of soft metal to keep valves from falling.

If you are sure that you will earn more in the time it takes to tinker with the car, you can entrust the VAZ-2106 to professional auto mechanics. But, perhaps, if you are here, therefore, you are determined to change the caps yourself.

Preparatory work

Before you begin any repairs, you need to wash the entire car as thoroughly as possible. Moreover, most of the attention should be paid to the engine compartment. Be sure to follow safety precautions - do not flood the ignition system, electronic sensors, or wires. Before you start washing, you must completely disconnect the power supply system. To do this, you need to disconnect the battery, preferably completely, and then remove it.

It is necessary to install wheel chocks under the rear wheels, then engage a lower gear and squeeze the handbrake. Since the car has rear-wheel drive, engaging the gear will prevent the car from rolling away. You definitely need to buy a set of valve stem seals. It is advisable to choose only those manufacturers recommended by AvtoVAZ.

Repair procedure

First of all, you need to get to the valve stem seals. We unscrew the cover nuts from the block head, do not forget to put the washers in a separate place so as not to lose them.
We turn the crankshaft and carefully watch when the marks on the cover coincide with the marks on the camshaft sprocket. This position will ensure the safety of the valves after removing the crackers.
Unscrew the camshaft bearings. Fixing the sprocket and chain can save you from a lot of problems, because they love to fall into the engine crankcase and ruin the rest of the day.
The piston in the first cylinder has reached top dead center. Now is the time to dismantle the spark plug and remove the spring. After this, move the lever to the side.
The adjusting bolt must be loosened, then a spring puller must be installed.
We insert a rod or tube made of soft metal into the hole of the candle, this will protect the valves from falling.
We take out the cracker and press the spring until the crackers appear. Sometimes they get stuck and need to be released by lightly tapping them.
Remove the springs, valve plates and washers.
We fix the valve with a clamp and remove the obsolete oil seal. You can help the process by lightly tapping the hammer.
Before the procedure, lubricate the new valve stem seal with engine oil. We put protective caps on all new oil seals, which should be included in the kit. This will protect the valve surface from scratches during the pressing process. Pressing is done with the same desiccant, only on the other side.
Repeat the same steps on the remaining valves. It is important to remember to crank the crankshaft before working on the second and third cylinders.

After installing the new, elastic and sealed valve stem seals, reassemble everything in the reverse order. If everything worked out correctly, you can be happy with yourself! The repair has been completed.

Signs of breakdown

To prevent serious problems in engine operation, it is necessary to promptly diagnose and correct oil seal failure.

You can judge the wear of valve stem seals on a VAZ 2107 by the following signs:

There is an increased release of white or blue exhaust gases.
Engine oil consumption increases significantly.
The candles become covered with black soot.

If you find these signs of failure, you need to make sure that the entire gas distribution mechanism is working properly, and not just the caps. Pay special attention to valve diagnostics. If necessary, replace the valve stem seals on the VAZ.

If the problem is not diagnosed and corrected in time, the following consequences may occur:

the motor will lose dynamics;
it will begin to work unstably and will often stall at idle;
the pressure in the cylinders will decrease;
carbon deposits form not only on the valves, but also on the walls of the cylinders and pistons;
the tightness of the system will be compromised.

When carbon deposits appear on the engine walls, its service life decreases sharply. If the problem is not corrected in time, the situation will lead to an expensive overhaul of the engine. But these difficulties can be avoided by simply replacing the oil seals on the VAZ 2107.

Necessary tools and accessories

Replacing the valve stem seals of a VAZ 2106 is done directly on the car, which significantly speeds up the work, since there is no need to remove and then reinstall the cylinder head. It is enough to place the car in a place protected from dust and precipitation. Apply the handbrake and place the gearshift knob in neutral. Replacing valve stem seals on a VAZ 2106 requires a set of caps and a new head cover gasket, standard tools, accessories:

Carrying;
Candle key;
Spanners 17 mm., 13 mm.;
Hexagonal internal heads 8 mm, 10 mm, 13 mm. with a collar;
Pliers;
Tweezers;
Flat screwdriver;
8 mm thick soft metal rod;
Torque wrench;
Spring compression device
Mandrel for installing caps
Soft wire.

Different designs of special pullers for compressing springs

Valve stem seals

Oil seals (valve seals) are designed to seal the valve. They trap excess lubricant (motor oil), preventing it from entering the combustion chamber.

The mechanical pair in the cylinder head is the valve stem and its guide sleeve. Technologically, it is almost impossible to join these parts without a gap. Valve seals are used to seal the connection. A high-quality and serviceable cap should fit tightly on the valve stem and allow only the amount of oil to pass through that is necessary for normal operation of the system.

If earlier the caps were made of fluoroplastic, now their production uses special reinforced and oil-resistant rubber. The upper part of the cap is pressed against the valve stem by a special spring.

The market offers valve stem seals from various manufacturers and brands, differing in quality, reliability and durability.

After long-term operation of the engine, the oil seal may collapse due to:

physical aging of the material from which it is made;
loss of the original elasticity of rubber under the influence of oil and high temperature;
material delamination.

This causes excess lubricant to enter the combustion chamber and increases oil consumption. Oil seals on domestic cars are usually replaced every 80 thousand kilometers. The last figure may increase significantly as a result of:

use of caps made of modern high-quality materials;
using high-quality original motor oil;
preventing engine overheating;
constant monitoring of the engine oil level.

Signs of failure of valve stem seals

The main signs of malfunction of valve seals on the VAZ 2106 are:

increased oil consumption (more than one liter per thousand kilometers);
light-colored exhaust gases;
oil deposits on spark plugs;
significant reduction in the dynamic characteristics of the engine;
increase in fuel consumption.

Such problems can be solved by replacing the caps. It's quite easy to do it yourself.

Selection of valve stem seals

Until the end of the 80s, caps produced by the Kursk plant were installed on all domestic cars. They were not of high quality, since they could not withstand high temperatures, and they had to be changed every 30 thousand kilometers. Then a new rubber-like material (fluorine rubber) was developed, from which leading manufacturers began to make caps. The material from which they are made may differ in color, but its basis should be rubber (recycled or acrylate), which ensures the durability of the part.

The presence of impurities in the material of the caps leads to their rapid failure. This applies primarily to fakes. Therefore, when purchasing, you should first of all pay attention to the manufacturer and be able to identify original products. The cost and service life of caps from leading brands are approximately the same.

When replacing VAZ 2106 caps, we can recommend the products of the following companies:

Elring is a German company that produces not only rubber caps, but also a number of other parts, and supplies its products to more than 140 countries.
Glazer is a Spanish company with a rich history, producing caps that are certified and comply with ISO9001/QS9000 requirements.
Reinz is a German company whose products experts recommend installing on an unworn valve-guide bushing pair.
Goetze is a German company recognized by automakers around the world. Since 1987, Goetze has been a supplier of quality spare parts for cars and boats, including valve stem seals, manufactured using innovative technology.
Payen and other manufacturers.

The quality of original domestic products is significantly inferior to foreign analogues. In any case, the choice remains with the car owner, his wishes and capabilities.

Replacing valve stem seals for VAZ 2106

To replace the caps you will need:

special desiccant for valve crackers (fasteners);

The procedure for replacing valve stem seals is as follows:

Remove the valve cover from the cylinder head.
Remove the camshaft and rocker.

Video: replacing valve stem seals on a VAZ 2106

How to make your own devices

It is convenient to use a special device, since there is no need to hold it with your hands; it holds the springs compressed with a bolt. If you don’t have such a device, you can make it yourself. To do this, it is enough to have two steel square bars 10x10 mm, 300 mm long. They need to be fastened at three points, at the ends and in the middle, so that there is a gap of 12 mm between them, like rails, then the price will be much cheaper. So:

You can attach it in any way; bolts, clamps, welding, in the fastening points between the rods you need to place metal plates 12 mm thick, which will provide the necessary gap between the rods.
The valve stem will fit into the gap when the springs are released. To install valves, instead of a mandrel, you can use a steel tube 120 mm long, with an internal diameter of 14 mm, and a copper washer with a hole matched to the rim of the cap.

Preliminary preparation

Before starting work, it is advisable to watch the video, replacing valve stem seals on a VAZ 2106; you definitely need to thoroughly wipe the surface of the upper part of the block and the head cover. For convenience, you need to remove the air filter housing. Cover the carburetor with film or cloth to prevent dirt from entering during operation. Unscrew the spark plugs, remove the cover with the gasket.

Set the fourth cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke. To do this, the crankshaft rotates to a position where the intake and exhaust valves of the fourth cylinder remain closed before and after the piston passes TDC. This is determined by the clearance between the valve and the rocker arm.
The position of the piston is determined by measuring with any rod through the spark plug hole. Check the alignment of the marks on the sprocket and the housing.

Use a screwdriver to bend the lock washer using a 17 mm spanner. Loosen, but do not unscrew, the nut securing the sprocket to the camshaft.
Using a 13 mm spanner, unscrew the cap nut securing the tensioner two turns.
Free up the chain as much as possible.
Unscrew the nut completely and carefully remove the sprocket from the camshaft axis.
To prevent the chain from falling off the sprocket, you need to tie it with wire and hang it together with the sprocket on the edge of the cylinder block.

Disassembly sequence

Unscrew the nine nuts holding the camshaft housing and remove it along with the shaft.
Using a screwdriver, lift the pressure spring, pull out the pressure lever with a little force, push the spring out from under the stopper and pull it out.
A soft wire is tightly inserted through the spark plug hole between the piston bottom and the valve so that the valve does not fall when the springs are pressed. The higher the part of the rod into which the fixing nuts are inserted, the less the springs will need to be pressed to install them.

Attention! It is not allowed to hold the valves with hard objects; there is a risk of scratching the piston or cylinder.

A nut is screwed onto the camshaft housing mounting stud closest to the valve, as in the photo, to which a special puller or the end of a homemade device clings with a grip. It covers the stud on both sides, rests against the lower plane of the nut and rests on the upper plate of the springs.
The valve stem with crackers is passed between the rods of the device.

Squeezing springs and removing crackers with tweezers

We press the lever, the springs are compressed, the plate with crackers goes down, the crackers fall into the area of the narrower part of the rod, and are able to come out of the hole of the plate. You need to select them with tweezers or pliers.

Attention! It is forbidden to pull out the crackers with your hands, as you can get your fingers pinched.

If the crackers are stuck and do not come out when the springs are significantly compressed, you need to knock them out with a weak hammer on the plate.

The device is released and removed sequentially:

plate;
outer spring;
internal spring;
inner spring lower washer;
outer spring washer.

To remove the lower washers, you need to pry them off with a screwdriver.

The cap is grabbed with pliers, rocked, and rises along the valve stem.
Then a new valve stem seal is installed and the valve is assembled in reverse order.
They are sequentially disassembled and reassembled with new valve caps for the fourth and first cylinders.
After this, holding the sprocket, the crankshaft rotates until the pistons of the second and third cylinders reach TDC. Consistently, similar work is carried out on their valves. We can assume that the oil caps on the VAZ 2106 have been replaced.

Replacing the cylinder head gasket VAZ 2110 2112

On VAZ 2110 and 2112 cars, a 16-valve four-cylinder engine is often installed; it has almost the same cylinder block, but the cylinder head is different - it is two-shaft. It is somewhat more difficult to remove such a cylinder head; the timing marks are also installed differently.

We replace the PGBC as follows:

We prepare everything for dismantling the cylinder head (remove the battery terminals, drain the antifreeze);
completely disconnect the air filter housing with pipes;
remove the oil filler cap, dismantle the decorative cover of the cylinder head (4 fasteners);
disconnect the high-voltage wires, remove the ignition module;
dismantle the upper timing belt casing, the most difficult thing to get to is the lower bolts;
unscrew the tension roller, remove the timing belt;
dismantle both camshafts, unscrew the bolts of the iron timing case to the cylinder head. You should immediately remove the dowels carefully, otherwise you may lose them. Before removing the gears, it is recommended to rotate the crankshaft and immediately set the timing belt to the marks;
remove the intake manifold; after unscrewing the nuts, you need to pull it out of place;
dismantle the valve cover by unscrewing all its fastening bolts;
We disconnect all the existing wires and cylinder head fastenings, as well as the fuel rail, gasoline hoses (we unscrew the fittings with two horns and wrenches). When unscrewing the fittings, it should be taken into account that there is pressure in the fuel system, so it is better to bleed it off first;
remove the protective cover of the exhaust manifold, disconnect the exhaust pipe of the muffler. It is inconvenient to get there; it is better to unscrew the nuts from below;
unscrew the thermostat bolts (3 pcs., 5mm hexagon);
twist the cylinder head mounting bolts (10 pcs.);
Having disconnected everything that can hold the cylinder head under the hood, remove the cylinder head.

We clean the surfaces, install a new gasket, and mount the cylinder head in place. Before installing the cylinder head, it is necessary to set the piston of the 1st cylinder to TDC, and on the head itself you should check the installation of the camshafts by placing the gears on them - the marks should face up. Having replaced the cylinder head gasket of the VAZ 2110, we start the engine and, as the engine warms up, add antifreeze to the cooling system.

Assembly order

Pressing in valve stem seals using a bushing

The valve stem, oil seal and cap are lubricated with engine oil; the valve cap corresponding to the valve is placed on the stem with the oil seal facing up. It descends down the stem, where it is pressed tightly against the hole with the valve guide.
The end of the mandrel is pressed against the rim of the cap, by lightly tapping the top of the mandrel with a hammer, the cap is pushed into the hole until it stops. The cost of a mistake in case of strong impacts, damage to the oil seal or cap, will have to be replaced. The springs are installed in the reverse order of disassembly.

Attention! After installing the springs and removing the device for compressing the springs, you need to remove the plate from the spark plug hole and tap the end of the rod with a hammer so that the crackers sit in their place. This must be done carefully; if the crackers are positioned incorrectly, the springs may pop out.

Procedure for tightening the camshaft cover nuts

The camshaft cover, as required by the instructions, is pressed with a torque wrench with a force of 8 kg/m. tightening the nuts in the required sequence.

Exact procedure

Install a valve desiccant.
After unscrewing the spark plug, insert a piece of tin fitting into the hole between the valve and the bottom of the piston.
Rotate the crankshaft to the top stop point.
Take out the oil seal.
Now remove the camshaft, having first removed the mounting key from it. If it is stuck there tightly, there is no need to scratch it out; remove it along with the shaft.
After removing the washer, remove the front and rear covers.
One by one, unscrew the four front nuts, followed by the six nuts from the rear cover.
Sometimes it happens that there are no o-rings in this area, so during reassembly you need to install it.
Disconnect the wires from the first fastening, then unscrew the nuts, and then the third fastening bolt.
The toothed pulley must be removed from the camshaft.
Remove the timing belt.
Disconnect the wires from the battery terminals.
Press the valve spring.
Using tweezers, remove the crackers.
After removing the valve plate, take out its springs.
Using pliers, pull the valve stem seals off the bushing.
With a sharp blow of a plumber's hammer, hit the striker of the handle to press the cap, and then pull it off with pliers.
Be sure to check the guides for damage after removing the caps.
You take a new oil seal, dip it in fresh oil and carefully press it back into place in its rightful place.
Carry out all further assembly in the exact reverse order.

The detailed instructions clearly show how to change valve stem seals without special technical knowledge or repair skills . However, if you are not confident in your abilities or are afraid of harming the car engine, then it is better to prepare money and go to a service center.

Equipment and tools for work

Replacing the VAZ-2106 valve stem seals should be carried out directly on the vehicle, which greatly simplifies and can speed up the work. Performing these actions does not require removing and then replacing the timing block element. It is enough to park the car in a place that is protected from dust, dirt and precipitation.

Apply the handbrake and place the gearshift lever in the neutral position.

To replace oil seals on a VAZ-2106 car, you need to have a set of new oil seals and a new gasket for the timing cover, a set of open-end wrenches and some equipment.

Performing setup

The valves are checked and adjusted from the spark plug side.

To accurately determine the TDC of the pistons and facilitate easier rotation of the crankshaft, it is better to unscrew the spark plugs.

The numbering of cylinders and valves comes from the front, from the cooling radiator. Remember to set the gear lever to neutral.

To correctly adjust the mechanism, you need to use a ratchet wrench to align the mark on the crankshaft pulley with mark I on the motor housing. Make sure that the piston in cylinder 4 is at the very top (TDC) by inserting a screwdriver into the spark plug well. If it fails, then the piston of cylinder 1 is in the TDC position, not the 4th, and you need to make a full revolution of the crankshaft. Then proceed according to the following algorithm:

Insert the dipstick between the lever and the camshaft journal on valve No. 6 of cylinder 3. Ideally, the probe should enter the lumen with little effort.
A slight movement of the probe or the inability to insert it indicates that the valve is too loose or tightened and needs to be readjusted.
Use a 17 wrench to loosen the fixing nut, and use the adjusting nut to increase or decrease the gap. This nut is rotated with a 13mm wrench.
After making sure that the dipstick moves tightly in the gap, tighten the fixing nut. Please note that when tightening the gap decreases and you need to make a small adjustment.
In the same way, adjust valve No. 8 of cylinder No. 4.

During further work, the same scheme is repeated, and the adjustment procedure is shown in the table. Each time you need to turn the crankshaft 180° clockwise and adjust the corresponding valve numbers. The accuracy of rotation will be determined by a round mark on the camshaft gear.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. But first, check the condition of the chain, the damper pad and the tensioner shoe. If necessary, tighten the chain. It also doesn’t hurt to check the valve cover gasket: it should remain flexible and not leak oil. After assembly, start the engine and evaluate its operation by ear. To be sure, it is worth measuring the pressure in the cylinders.

Of course, every owner of Soviet cars sooner or later is faced with their repair and adjustment of various components. Although today the presence of Soviet-era cars on the roads is gradually decreasing, such repair work has not lost its relevance. And in this article we will talk to you about how to properly adjust the valves on a VAZ 2106 with your own hands.

Photo of valve adjustment

By the way, the difference between Zhiguli and the products of modern automakers is significant, and some parameters of the car have to be adjusted manually. Adjusting components such as valves on a VAZ 2106 car is a fairly important procedure, and it is necessary for some reasons. The main reasons include significant heating of the engine while driving.

As we remember from the school curriculum concerning the laws of physics, any solid materials expand when heated.

In this case, this applies to all engine elements that can be heated. Therefore, based on some design parameters of the power unit, such parts require timely adjustment.

Preparing for work:

Before you start, it is recommended that you watch the video on replacing valve stem seals on your car. From the very beginning, you should thoroughly wipe the upper part of the timing belt, as well as the mechanism cover.

To make it more convenient, you need to unscrew the air filter housing, wrap the carburetor with film or cloth to prevent foreign objects, moisture and dirt from getting into it during operation. Unscrew the spark plugs and remove the cover with the gasket.

The 4th cylinder must be moved to TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke. For this purpose, the crankshaft should be rotated to a position in which the intake and exhaust valves of the 4th cylinder remain in the closed position before and after TDC. This location of the piston should be determined by the distance between the valves and rocker arms.

You can find out what position the piston is in using any rod by measuring the distance in the spark plug hole. You should also check whether the marks on the sprocket and the housing match.

After removing the sprocket from the camshaft, perform the following steps:

unscrew the nuts that hold the camshaft housing and remove it along with the shaft;
Using a screwdriver, lift the pressure spring, pull out the pressure lever with a little effort, pull the spring out from under the stopper and pull it out;
using a spark plug hole between the piston bottom and the valve, it is necessary to insert a soft wire so that the valve does not lower when the spring is pressed;
Screw a nut onto the camshaft housing stud closest to the valve, onto which, using a grip, we hook a special puller or the end of a hand-made device. It covers the stud on both sides, resting against the lower plane of the nut, and rests on the upper plate above the spring;
the valve stem with crackers are passed between the puller plates;
press the lever of the device, the springs should compress, the crackers with the plate go down, the crackers fall into the place of the narrower part on the rod, and then come out of the hole of the plate. Next, you need to select them using tweezers or pliers;
If the crackers are stuck and do not come out when the spring is strongly compressed, you need to knock them out with a light blow of the hammer on the plate.

Removing and installing the camshaft

Removal is most often necessary either during a major overhaul or for replacement in cases of failure. To carry out the work, the following tools are required:

heads for 10, 13 and 17;
handle with ratchet;
knob;
extension cord with cardan;
socket wrench 13;
device for mounting and dismantling the VAZ camshaft.

First, the valve cover is removed, which is bolted to the cylinder head and has a rubber gasket. Try not to damage it, otherwise oil may leak in the future. After this, the timing chain tensioner is unscrewed. It is located on the right side of the engine when viewed from the interior. The camshaft gear is turned by the head to 17.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=CuOAi0WKn-M

For convenience, place the car in gear and place wheel chocks under the rear wheel. Move the gear to the side; if necessary, you can pry it off with a convenient tool. Now all the nuts that secure the camshaft housing must be unscrewed. To make the job easier, use a wrench first.

All threaded connections are tightened with a strong torque, so sometimes it turns out to be difficult to dismantle. Then, slightly rocking the camshaft housing, pull upward with force. And after unscrewing the two nuts in the front of the pencil case, you can easily hit the back of the shaft with a wooden mallet to finally remove it from its seat. The camshaft is installed in the reverse order.

If you are making repairs due to excessive shaft wear, replace the rockers. They can be removed quite easily, you just need to pull them up. But if the condition of the elements is good, then you should not waste time on them: just carefully inspect each one and put it back in its original place. Moreover, do the installation in the same sequence in which you removed it.

How to change valve stem seals on a VAZ 2106

In the article we will talk about how to replace the oil seals of a VAZ 2106. Sometimes they are called valve seals, which is also true, like valve seals.
These are small elements made of durable rubber and ceramics that can withstand high temperatures. They are used in the gas distribution system to prevent oil from entering the combustion chambers. If you look at the design of an internal combustion engine, you can see that the valves are lubricated by engine oil at the top. From below, combustion of the fuel mixture occurs. Now imagine what will happen if oil starts leaking through one of the valves?

That's right, it will burn, leaving a lot of soot on the walls of the combustion chamber, and smoke may also appear from the muffler. Consequently, depending on the degree of destruction, oil consumption will also appear.

Adjustment of valves

If knocking, unstable operation, or increased vibration occur, you should pay attention to the valves.

If the valve timing of the gas distribution mechanism is disrupted, they do not operate accurately, that is, the full volume of gas does not enter the working area of the cylinders, complete combustion of the fuel-air mixture in the working chamber does not occur, and the cylinders are not purged. This is all accompanied by the appearance of a shock load on the camshaft cams on the drive lever and the shaft rod. Fuel and engine oil consumption also increases. What happens if you drive with unadjusted valves? Answer: rapid wear of engine parts, increasing cost and repair time.

The greatest danger to a car engine is a gap that is less than permissible. Too little clearance between the drive lever and the camshaft cam prevents the valve head from sitting tightly in its seat on the cylinder heads. Through a valve that is not seated, gases from the burnt fuel-air mixture are knocked out of the combustion chamber. Because of this, the exhaust valve cap around the perimeter begins to burn.

Rubber oil deflectors, also known as oil deflectors, also burn out due to a burnt valve cap, which leads to increased engine oil consumption. If the wear of engine parts is large, then it may be better and easier to do an engine swap with your own hands or at a service station.

Why do VAZ 2106 valve stem seals wear out?

New valve seals are elastic and soft, elastic, tightly compressing the valve, preventing lubricant from entering the combustion chambers. Depending on how old the engine is, the caps change their properties.

Exposure to different temperatures - for example, when warming up in winter, oil seals can heat up by more than a hundred degrees in a few minutes.

It is this condition that determines the degree of wear of the caps. They become hard, begin to leak oil and do not fulfill their direct duties.

Replacing the valve stem seals of a VAZ 2106 with your own hands is quite simple - you don’t need to have a mechanic’s education, you just need to do all the work carefully. From the special tool you will need:

Valve depressurizer - for compressing the spring.
Mandrel for installing oil seals.
A puller or pliers for removing old caps.
A soft metal rod for securing valves in engine cylinders.

You should have all this available if you are repairing the VAZ 2106 yourself. Otherwise, you gradually buy all the accessories in stores.

Replacement of VAZ 2106 engine valves

Quite rarely, but such a problem does occur when a valve or several valves need to be replaced. If this part is damaged, compression in the cylinder drops and power decreases. Therefore, repair is a necessary procedure to restore the performance of the power unit.

Can valves be repaired?

The most common reasons for which valves have to be replaced are when a part burns out or the rod bends for one reason or another, for example, when the tension is weak or the timing drive breaks. The simplest and most affordable way to repair is to replace the damaged element. The cost of valves for the VAZ 2106 is not so high as to make it worth trying to restore this part, especially since this is not always possible.

Replacing guides

Valve guides in the cylinder head perform several functions:

heat removal;
placing the valve above the hole;
ensuring minimal oil consumption.

Replacement procedure

When replacing valve stem seals on a VAZ 2106, you must adhere to a certain algorithm:

Remove the cover from the block head by unscrewing all the nuts. And don't lose the washers underneath them.
Rotate the crankshaft until the marks on the camshaft sprocket and the cover align. In this position of the crankshaft, the pistons of the first and fourth cylinders are at TDC. Therefore, after removing the crackers, the valves will not fall out.
Remove the pastel of the camshaft bearings, fix the sprocket and chain so that they do not fall down, otherwise it will be very difficult to get them out.
So, in the first cylinder the piston is at TDC, now you need to unscrew the spark plug and remove the spring, and then move the lever to the side.
Loosen the adjusting bolt and install the spring puller.
Insert a soft metal rod (tin is ideal) into the spark plug hole to prevent the valves from falling down.
Using a desiccant compress the spring until the crackers are released. It is quite possible that you will have to tap them lightly - they often stick.
Dismantle the springs, remove the plates and washers.
Now you can install the first valve stem seal of the VAZ 2106 in its place. Place the clamp on the valve and, tapping with a small hammer, remove the old cap. Lubricate the new one with oil and remove the spring from the top. Place it in place and, using a mandrel, press it into the hole. Afterwards you can put on the spring.
Replacing the VAZ 2106 oil seals on the remaining valves is carried out in the same way, just do not forget to rotate the crankshaft before working on the second and third cylinders.

After completing all work, install the chain and sprocket in place, and tension the drive. Make sure everything is installed before starting the engine. Video on the topic:

The work of replacing the camshaft on a VAZ 2101 takes place in several stages

Removing the valve cover. For work, use a 10mm wrench, with which you should unscrew all the fasteners. The cover, even if the last time this operation was performed by the previous owner many years ago, is usually removed quite easily.
Unscrewing the camshaft mounting nut. For work, use a flat screwdriver and a 17mm wrench. Before actually unscrewing the nut, you need to “clear the field for work” a little, for which you use a screwdriver. Use it to bend the washer located under the camshaft star fastening nut.
Unscrewing the timing chain tensioner bolt and removing the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain tensioner is located at the front of the structure, on the right. The timing chain tensioner bolt usually unscrews without serious problems; and after loosening the chain tension, the star is removed. To make the last step – removing the star – easier, you can lightly (very gently) tap it from the inside.
Continuation of work on unscrewing the camshaft cover fastening nuts. The remaining nuts are carefully unscrewed, after which the entire body, together with the camshaft, rises up quite easily.
Installing new camshaft rockers. This point can theoretically be circumvented by keeping the old rockers. However, in this case, they will be extremely difficult to adjust, which will lead to constant “knocking” of the engine; not to mention the fact that old rockers, as a rule, have already exhausted their resource. However, it is easier to replace the rocker than to look for explanations for refusing to replace it. You need to lift the rocker all the way up, and it can be easily removed. When installing new rockers, the sequence does not matter, whereas when returning old ones “in place”, the sequence is important.
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When replacing the camshaft and rockers, it is better to immediately think about replacing the springs: their cost is too low, and safety is much more valuable.
Installing a new camshaft. Installing the camshaft itself is a matter of two to three minutes, after which you just need to tighten the mounting nuts using a torque wrench.
Unless it preferably does this according to the following scheme: You should not be too zealous when tightening the nuts, so as not to damage the threads. The recommended screwing force is from 18 to 21 Nm.
Replacement of the camshaft sprocket, timing chain and valve adjustment. Obviously, there is no point in deciphering this point in more detail. To check the correctness of the adjustment, start the engine and check the operating efficiency. As a rule, there is no need for repeated adjustments. Unless - to achieve the absolute ideal.

Also read with this article:

Adjusting VAZ 2101 valves - step-by-step instructions

Replacing the driveshaft crosspiece on a VAZ 2101

Diagnostics of the VAZ 2101 engine using improvised means

Replacing wiper arms on a VAZ 2101

Signs of failure of valve seals on VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106.

Typically, the oil seal replacement interval is 80,000 kilometers. Only timely identification of a malfunction and its elimination will prevent major repairs of the engine. Let's look at the main signs of wear on valve stem seals:

High oil consumption and the subsequent need to add more than a liter of oil per 10,000 km is the first sign of wear on the oil scraper rings and/or valve stem seals. The limit is considered to be oil consumption from the “max” mark to the “min” mark per 1000 km for gasoline engines.
Smoke exhaust color. Color serves as an important diagnostic sign and directly indicates malfunctions in the engine. Smoke from the exhaust pipe can be white, black, blue and other shades, depending on the additives in the fuel and the type of fuel itself. White smoke on a warm VAZ 2106/2107 engine is a reliable sign of wear on the valve stem seals or burnout of the engine piston oil rings.
Carbon deposits on spark plugs. This sign determines that the oil seals have worn out and/or a “rich mixture” of air is being supplied to the carburetor. Eliminated by replacing valve seals and/or cleaning the carburetor and repairing the engine ECU.
Sticking engine valves. Sticking engine valves can be caused by worn oil seals, low-quality fuel and oil, as well as irregular oil replacement. Another reason may be a long pause in engine operation and overheating.

After conducting diagnostics and verifying the cause of the breakdown, it is necessary to replace the caps. If you have the right tools, you can handle the repair yourself; you will need the following for this:

wrenches “10”, “13”, “17”;
standard flat and Phillips screwdriver;
head for unscrewing spark plugs;
cap remover;
spark plug wrench;
desiccant for valves;
tweezers or thin-lipped pliers;
set of new valve stem seals for VAZ 2106/2107. The cost of a set of valve stem seals for a “classic” from VAZ with article number 21011007026 and from the manufacturer REINZ with article number 702273700 will be about 100 rubles.

The price is indicated for spring 2020 in Moscow and the region.

Tool necessary for replacing valve stem seals.

We changed and adjusted the valves, but there is still valve knocking. What is the problem? (VAZ 2106)

I'll let you know if the valves are knocking, if the valves are knocking, write it's gone, go see a noisemaker, adjusting the valves is not a difficult task, of course, but you need to know mathematics

perhaps the saddles dreamed of a skiff!!! knock chat if not too much! The main thing is not to be squeezed!!!!

It's time to change the camshaft, rocker and housing... Although there may be other reasons...

Are there old rockers? If yes, how long did it take? . A hole is knocked out in them - a groove, and when adjusted, the flat probe leaves this groove. Therefore the actual gap is larger... There is no need to panic. Either adjust with a narrow feeler gauge or change the rocker. Or just drive like that.

on a new head, after a short mileage, they always adjust the valves using the new one and tighten it, but in general, buy a repair manual book….

Not only valves can knock, you need to disassemble the engine and look at the piston, otherwise a friend of mine had something knocking, and then the piston shattered, I had to change the engine

I had a knocking noise at idle on my 2106 - I thought it was the valves, adjusting them didn’t help - it turned out that it was the bearings on the generator, the sound was just coming from them!

Yes, I also encountered something similar, there was a knocking noise at idle, I thought it was a valve, it turned out to be some kind of bearing, I don’t remember.

I’ve been working as a motor mechanic for about 16 years now, on classics 70% of the time I adjust the valves using the indicator head the right way. If after a short mileage, after adjustment, the knocking of the valves returns, re-repair the head 100%.

The valves need to be unambiguously adjusted ONLY with an indicator, but the gap should be made not 0.52, as the factory advises, but 0.4. But in most cases it is the shaft rumbling in the bed. UNFORTUNATELY, we make both failed shafts and failed beds. Therefore, to buy a good shaft-bed set, you need to go shopping with a micrometer, choose the most complete shaft and select a bed for it. The selection is made as follows: the shaft is inserted into the bed dry and 2-3 full turns are made, after which the shaft is removed and a trace of the shaft touching the necks is visible. Ideally, the marks should be IN ALL 5 SUPPORTS AND ALONG THE ENTIRE DIAMETER, preferably also across the entire width. As a rule, the shaft touches only in 2, maximum 3 supports, and even then, in 2-3 points, and not around the entire circle. It’s just that in 85-90% of cases the beds end up falling through, and in order to somehow hide this, the supports are carefully crushed through a spacer. And in such a bed, the shaft will begin to rattle after 800-1200 km, even if you adjust the valve clearances.