Mazda Demio 1.3 5 doors. minivan, 63 hp, 5 manual transmission, 2000 – 2003 — the fuel pump does not pump gasoline

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Mazda Demio 1.3 5 doors. minivan, 63 hp, 5 manual transmission, 2000 – 2003 — the fuel pump does not pump gasoline

Fuel pump malfunction (does not pump gasoline)

One of the most important elements of the fuel injection system of a gasoline engine is the electric fuel pump, which is located in the fuel tank of the car. The fuel pump pumps fuel into the system from the gas tank, creating a certain pressure.

Auto repair experts identify the following common fuel system problems that are related to the fuel pump:

The fuel pump pumps poorly and does not create the required pressure; the fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on; Considering that the fuel pump is an electromechanical device, the most common fuel pump malfunctions are related to both the mechanical and electrical parts. Next, we will look at what signs indicate a breakdown of the fuel pump and why the fuel pump stops pumping partially or completely.

Signs of fuel pump malfunctions

The main symptoms of fuel pump failure, as well as malfunctions in its operation, are:

the car starts with difficulty, the engine runs unstable, there are dips, jerking when pressing the gas pedal, etc.; the pump does not pump after turning on the ignition, does not turn the starter and does not pump the fuel pump, the engine does not start; There have also been cases when the fuel pump stops pumping while driving. In such a situation, the engine begins to malfunction and stalls immediately after the remaining gasoline in the fuel line is used up. The problem can occur either regularly or periodically.

The fuel pump does not pump: causes and diagnostics

Let's start with the fact that if the gas tank is full, the battery is charged, the spark plugs are dry and there is a spark, the starter turns the engine normally, but the engine does not seize, then you should pay attention to the gas pump. A common problem is that there is no power to the fuel pump after the ignition is turned on. In a similar way, the malfunction manifests itself in motion, when the power to the fuel pump is lost and the engine suddenly stalls.

An equally important point is how much the fuel pump pumps. In other words, the pump may hum and buzz (power is being supplied), but not create the required pressure in the fuel line. The pressure in the fuel system with a working fuel pump must be more than 3 bar (which depends on the specific car model). The indicated pressure is accumulated in the fuel rail and has an indicator of 300 kPa and above.

To check, you need to measure the pressure in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge, taking into account the indicators that are the norm for a specific car model. Using the example of injection engines, the pressure when the ignition is turned on is 3 atmospheres, at idle the indicator is 2.5 atmospheres, when pressing the gas 2.5-3 atmospheres. This method will help you accurately determine:

malfunction of the fuel pressure regulator in the rail; breakdown of the fuel pump or a noticeable decrease in its performance due to wear; severe contamination of filters (fuel filter and/or fuel pump mesh); In the second case, when you press the gas, the pressure does not increase; in the latter case, the pressure gauge needle rises, but very slowly or jerkily.

A decrease in pressure below the norm will lead to the fact that the engine may not start or start with difficulty, stall, jerk, operate unstably and with failures. If this happens due to the fault of the pump and not the fuel filter, then there is a high probability that the coarse filter screen of the fuel pump is clogged. In this case, there is no need to change the fuel pump itself, since it will be enough to replace or even clean the mesh.

If you suspect that there is no voltage to the fuel pump, there is a quick way to check. It is enough to turn the ignition key and listen, as when you turn the key you should hear a slight hum from the fuel pump. If such a buzzing noise is not heard, it means there is no power to the fuel pump, there are problems with the wiring, etc.

We add that this method of determining the operation of the pump by sound is not suitable for all cars. On some models (especially premium ones), sound insulation is at a high level and the fuel pump turns on immediately after opening the driver's door, and not when turning the key in the lock. In this case, it may seem that the fuel pump does not work when the ignition is turned on, and the sound of the pump may simply not be heard. Also in the general list of possible reasons why the fuel pump does not pump, the following are noted:

failure of the fuel pump fuse; fuel pump relay failure; problems with the ground of the fuel pump; malfunction of the electric motor of the fuel pump; oxidation or damage to fuel pump contacts and terminals; the fuel pump itself is faulty;

Wiring to the fuel pump

On most cars, the wiring to the fuel pump consists of three wires: “plus”, “minus”, and also a wire for indicating the amount of fuel in the gas tank. If the fuel pump does not pump, then the cause may be a lack of power.

To check the power to the fuel pump, just take a 12-volt light bulb and supply it with power from the external connector of the fuel pump. After turning the ignition, the control lamp should light up. If this does not happen, then the problem is in the external circuits. If the lamp comes on, it will indicate the need to check the internal contacts of the fuel pump.

To check the external wiring, you should alternately connect the positive and negative contacts, which are removed from the fuel pump power connector, to the ground of the pump. The contacts must also be connected to the fuel pump relay. If you place the negative contact on ground, after which the ignition is turned on and the light comes on, then this means that this contact is faulty. If the light bulb does not light up, then problems with the “plus” are obvious. If you place a contact on the relay and the light comes on, there is probably damage to the wire on the section that connects the relay and the fuel pump itself.

Fuel pump electric motor

If checking the pressure in the fuel rail and the external wiring to the fuel pump gives positive results, then you should check the fuel pump motor. This electric motor is responsible for circulating gasoline inside the fuel pump.

When checking, you need to take into account that the terminals on the fuel pump themselves tend to oxidize, as a result of which power is not supplied and the pump does not pump. In this case, the motor is working, but the terminals need to be cleaned or re-soldered.

To check the fuel pump motor, you will need to attach the test lamp wires to a cleaned and serviceable terminal of the electric motor, after which you should turn on the ignition. If the light comes on, this will indicate that the fuel pump motor is not working.

Fuel pump ground contact

Problems with the fuel pump mass may be indicated by a fuel level sensor that is not working correctly. The mass may be poorly secured; in this case, the fuel pump does not pump fuel. The ground wire is usually located under the dashboard and runs through the cabin. It is necessary to find the specified wire, check and clean all contacts, then securely fasten the ground to the fuel pump.

Fuel pump relay

The fuel pump relay is often mounted next to the fuel pump ground, that is, under the dashboard. A normally operating relay after turning on the ignition for a couple of seconds allows the pump to create pressure in the system and immediately turns off.

When the ignition key is turned, the driver hears a characteristic click (the relay is turned on), then a similar click will indicate that the fuel pump relay is turned off. If such clicks are not heard, this indicates a malfunction of the relay or its contacts. The optimal solution would be to replace the fuel pump relay with a new or known-good device. Let us add that the cost of spare parts is quite affordable.

Fuel pump fuse

During diagnostics, be sure to check the fuel pump fuse. The specified 15 A fuse is usually located in the fuse box in the engine compartment and is marked FUEL PUMP, which means fuel pump.

The fuel pump fuse needs to be pulled out and its contact inspected. The integrity of the contact will indicate that the device is normal. A damaged contact will indicate that the fuel pump fuse has blown. In this case, you need to install a new fuse, which has a very low cost (as in the situation with the fuel pump relay).

Other causes of fuel pump malfunctions

Quite often, unprofessional installation of additional electrical equipment or security anti-theft systems leads to the fact that the power to the fuel pump is lost due to mixed up contacts or other connection errors.

Also, one should not exclude the possibility that a malfunction occurred in the car alarm or security system, after which the power supply to the fuel pump is blocked. In other words, the alarm blocks the engine from starting. Finally, let’s add that the gas pump in the gas tank is immersed in gasoline, in which it is actively cooled. The habit of driving with an empty tank can quickly damage the electric motor of the fuel pump, as it burns out.

Specifications

Technical characteristics of Mazda Demio 1.3 / Mazda Demio in the back of 5 doors. minivan with a 63 hp engine, 5 manual transmission, produced from 2000 to 2003.

Basic data

• Start of production:
  May 2000
• End of production:

  May 2003

• Body:

  5 doors minivan

Engine

• Engine type: L4
• Fuel brand: gasoline
• Engine capacity, cubic meters see: 1324
• Valves per cylinder: 4
• Supercharging: no
• Power, hp: 63
• Achieved at vol. per minute: 5000
• Torque, Nm/rev. per minute: 103 / 3000
• Maximum speed, km/h: 151
• Acceleration time to 100 km/h, sec.: 14
• Fuel consumption (combined cycle), l. per 100 km: 7
• Fuel consumption (in the city), l. per 100 km: 8.7
• Fuel consumption (outside the city), l. per 100 km: 6
• Power system: injector
• Gas distribution system: ohc
• Cylinder diameter, mm: 71
• Piston stroke, mm: 83.6
• CO2 exhaust, g/km: 167
• Compression ratio: 9.4

Drive unit

• Drive type: front

Transmission

• Transmission: Manual
• Number of steps: 5

Brakes

• Front: disc, 235 mm
• Rear: drum, 200 mm

Dimensions

• Length, mm: 3820
• Width, mm: 1650
• Height, mm: 1540
• Wheelbase, mm: 2390

Other

• Tire size: 165/70R13
• Curb weight, kg: 930
• Permissible weight, kg: 900
• Fuel tank volume, l: 43
• Turning diameter, m: 9.2
• Warranty against corrosion, years: 6

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Repair Mazda 3 Mazda 3 Fuses

1. Repair manuals
2. Repair manual for Mazda 3 (Mazda 3) 2003-2008.
3. Circuit breakers

Ford Focus 2 fuse box

Fuses serve to interrupt a circuit when the current exceeds a certain value and protect components and wires that may be damaged by too much current. A sudden increase in current is usually caused by a fault in the circuit, most often a short circuit. The fuse box is located under the instrument panel on the driver's side.

Each of the fuses protects its own circuit; its belonging to a particular circuit is indicated on the cover of the fuse box.

If a newly installed fuse fails immediately when voltage is applied, check the electrical circuit being protected. If a fuse protects several circuits, then they must be connected one by one in order to determine the faulty circuit by the blown fuse.

The heater and air conditioner draw a lot of current, so the fuse box has a switch to protect their circuits. If the circuit is interrupted by the breaker, turn off the heater and air conditioner before pressing the breaker's reset button.

↓ Comments ↓

1. Operation and maintenance of the vehicle 1.0 Operation and maintenance of the vehicle 1.1. Description of the car 1.2. Passive safety system 1.3. Use of the vehicle for its intended purpose 1.4. Troubleshooting problems that arose on the way or before moving 1.5. Tables

2. Engine 2.0 Engine 2.1. General description of the new engines of models L8, LF and L3 2.2. Mechanical part of engines 2.3. Appendix 1 2.4. Appendix 2 2.5. Appendix 3 2.6. Z6 engine – mechanical part 2.7. Lubrication system 2.8. Cooling system 2.9. Intake system 2.10. Fuel system 2.11. Exhaust gas system and toxicity reduction system 2.12. Ignition system 2.13. Control system 2.14. Tables

3. Transmission 3.0 Transmission 3.1. Clutch 3.2. Manual gearbox 3.3. Automatic gearbox 3.4. Drive mechanism 3.5. Tables

4. Chassis 4.0 Chassis 4.1. Wheels and tires 4.2. Suspension 4.3. Tables

5. Steering mechanism 5.0 Steering mechanism 5.1. General information 5.2. General checks 5.3. Working operations with the steering mechanism 5.4. Tables

6. Brake system 6.0 Brake system 6.1. General information 6.2. Brake system 6.3. Tables

7. On-board electrical equipment 7.0 On-board electrical equipment 7.1. General information 7.2. Power supply system 7.3. Lighting system 7.4. Windshield wipers and washers 7.5. Immobilizer 7.6. Electrical equipment checks 7.7. Tables

8. Body 8.0 Body 8.1. General information 8.2. Mounted body components 8.3. Body glazing 8.4. Seats 8.5. Air conditioning and heater 8.6. Tables

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Interactive fuse diagram under the hood of Mazda 3

The picture becomes interactive when you hover the cursor.

Mazda 3 fuses (second generation, 2010-2013) protect different electrical circuits of the car and have different ratings - current in amperes. To make it easier to distinguish them, they are marked in different colors. Replacement of fuses is done according to the layout diagram, which indicates which fuse is responsible for what. A similar diagram can be seen here.

Brown (7.5 A) protects: air conditioning (terminal AC MAG), ABS (terminal ABS IG), instrument panel illumination (terminal ILLUM) and various circuits (terminal BTN 2).

Read more: Road sign road works are underway

Red (10 A) protects: engine management system (terminal ENG + B).

Blue (15 A) protects: fog lights or PTF (FOG terminal), sunroof (SUNROOF terminal), interior lighting (ROOM terminal), TCM system (TCM terminal), horn (HORN), brake lights (STOP terminal ), low beam headlights (terminals H/LLOLH and H/LLORH), dimensions (terminal TAIL), PCM control unit (terminal ENG BAR), throttle valve actuator (terminal ETV).

Yellow (20 A) protect: cooling fan (terminal FAN2), high beam headlights (terminal HL HI), headlight washers (terminal HL WASH), DSC system (terminal DSC), PCM control unit (terminal ENG BAR 2).

Gray (25 A) protects: fuel system (FUEL PUMP terminal).

Cherry ones (transparent and square 30 A) protect: injectors (INJ terminal), rear window defroster (R.DEF terminal).

Blue (transparent and square 40 A) protect: engine cooling system (ENG MIAN terminal), windshield defoggers (EDEFRH and EDEFLH terminals), cooling fan (FAN 1 terminals).

Red (clear and square 50 A) protects: various electrical circuits (BTN terminal 1).

Brown (clear and square 80A) protects: electro-hydraulic power steering (EHPAS terminal)

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Fuses and relays Mazda 3 2008-2013

This manual is designed for Mazda 3 vehicles with 1.6 liter engines.
Fuse and relay box in the engine compartment.

This block is located near the battery.

Layout of fuses and relays in the block.

Additional fuse and relay box in the engine compartment.

This block is located near the main block.

Explanation:

Fuse box in the cabin.

It is located on the left side of the dashboard behind a plastic cover.

Layout of fuses in the block.

Explanation:

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