VAZ 21214 fuel pump does not work - The fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on - VAZ auto parts

Symptoms of a faulty fuel pump

Fuel pump for VAZ

Actually, these are rather two stages of the same malfunction, although it happens that malfunctions in the operation of the fuel pump do not lead to its complete failure. Especially when these failures are caused by some extraneous factors. And so, the fuel pump either simply fails or does not work at all. These are all his breakdowns. Another thing is that there are many breakdowns of other elements, which in their symptoms are very similar to fuel pump breakdowns.

As for the signs of a fuel pump malfunction, there can be a lot of them, and as already mentioned, they may coincide with symptoms of problems in other components and systems of the car. Therefore, we will describe only the most common and most characteristic of these symptoms.

the car does not start or stalls frequently;
engine troits;
extraneous noise in engine operation;
drop in engine power;
absence of characteristic noise when the fuel pump operates;

The signs are very eloquent, but it’s not always possible to understand what they are talking about. And here we cannot do without methods for diagnosing the fuel pump.

How to determine if a fuel pump is faulty

Be that as it may, most of the signs indicating a fuel pump malfunction may indicate problems in other systems and components of the machine. The car is malfunctioning - maybe the spark plugs, maybe the ignition, maybe some sensor is acting up. Extraneous noise in the engine can generally be caused by various breakdowns. Even when the engine stalls immediately after starting, you cannot blame only the fuel pump. For example, without readings from the crankshaft position sensor, the ECU can stop the pump, which is quite a normal car reaction to such a problem. And even a decrease in pressure in the system can be caused by leaks in the fuel lines, breakdown of the bypass valve and other failures.

What can you do right away? First of all, you can check the operation of the fuel pump before starting the engine. To do this, open the fuel tank cap and have someone turn on the ignition without turning the starter. In the first seconds after turning on the ignition, you should hear a specific noise from the fuel pump. If it is missing, most likely the pump will have to be replaced, although it is possible that the reason for the failure is the power supply to the device.

Measuring the pressure in the fuel rail is another way to check the fuel pump. Normal pressure readings, as well as the correct procedure for installing a pressure gauge, should be found in the documentation for your car.

Most often, in modern cars, when the fuel pump fails, it is replaced. But there is no need to rush into this. Perhaps the cause of the failure is not the fuel pump itself, but, for example, a coarse filter that is simply clogged. In this case, simply cleaning this mesh will help and you won’t need to change anything. It is also worth checking the wiring, fuse, as well as the fuel pump relay; perhaps the reason for the failure of the device lies here. Again, checking the fuel lines, the bypass valve, and even the injectors themselves will also not be superfluous.

The Lada Kalina fuel pump does not pump and does not work. Reasons, signs

Sooner or later, any car enthusiast is faced with the fact that the gasoline pump of the Lada Kalina fails. Some people immediately go to a car service center, but there are also those who try to fix the problem with their own hands. This procedure cannot be called easy, but it is quite possible to do it yourself.

Lada Kalina fuel pump repair video

https://youtube.com/watch?v=7xPJSUReJKg

The video shows the process of repairing and diagnosing the Lada Kalina fuel pump, as well as some recommendations.

Main signs of fuel pump malfunction and diagnostics

Gasoline pump Lada Kalina

Before proceeding with repairs, it is necessary to determine whether the fuel pump is faulty. There are direct and indirect factors that indicate this. So, let's look at the main signs of a malfunctioning gasoline pump on Kalina:

Poor engine start when cold.
The car moves jerkily.
The motor does not start.
Insufficient pressure in pipelines.

All these reasons may mean that the fuel pump needs repair or replacement.

Removing the fuel pump

Before you begin removing the Kalina fuel pump, you need to assemble the tools. To carry out this operation you will need: pliers and a screwdriver. So, let's get straight to the process:

Disconnect the “minus terminal” from the battery.
Relieve the pressure in the system.
We dismantle the rear seat sofa.
Under the carpet we find a hatch from which you need to unscrew the 4 fastening bolts.
Under the rear seat and carpet there is a panel that covers the Kalina's fuel pump.
Disconnect the fuel pump wiring connector.
Disconnect the fuel hoses.
By pressing the block you can disconnect the fuel hoses
Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel hoses of the Lada Kalina
Unscrew the fuel pump mounting plate counterclockwise.
The place where the fastening ring should be so that the fuel pump can be pulled out
Once in a certain groove on the body, you can remove the gasoline pump from the fuel tank.
Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Now the fuel pump has been dismantled and you can begin troubleshooting and repairs.

Repair operations

Before you begin repairing the fuel pump on Kalina, it is worth noting that you need to be 100% sure that this is where the problem lies. If you are not sure, then it is worth checking all other systems, since it is not recommended to disassemble it unless absolutely necessary.

It is also worth noting that repairing this unit should be done slowly and carefully, since the part is fragile and careless movement can only cause harm. So, let's consider the sequence of disassembly and repair processes:

Use a screwdriver to pry up the drain module and disconnect it.
Disconnect the ground wire from the pump.
From the inside we disconnect the intermediate wire connector.
Clogged fuel pump screen
The working part of the Kalina fuel pump
Internal view of the fuel pump housing
Use a screwdriver to pry up the ring and turn it clockwise
We dismantle the pressure regulator.
We press the plastic retainer and remove the fuel pump module.
We remove the filter mesh from the housing.
We reassemble in reverse order.
Fuel pump mesh for Kalina fuel pump

If during disassembly we identified parts that need to be replaced, then we replace them.

Selecting a fuel pump

If the fuel pump stops showing signs of life, it must be replaced. To select, you need to know the catalog number.

The original article number of the Lada Kalina fuel pump is 1118-1139009. There is also an analogue from the manufacturers Master-sport (1118-1139009-PCS-MS) and Pekar (1118-1139009).

Replacing and repairing the Lada Kalina gasoline pump is quite easy compared to what it seems at first. You can carry out this operation yourself in your garage, if you have a screwdriver and pliers. If the fuel pump is completely out of order, you can easily find a new one. As practice shows, car enthusiasts install the original part.

Preventing fuel pump malfunctions

What should you pay attention to so that the fuel pump runs as long as possible? First of all, this is the quality of the fuel and, of course, timely replacement of the fuel filter. If the gasoline you fill contains various foreign inclusions, this will most likely negatively affect the condition and service life of the fuel pump, and not only it. Therefore, it is not worth saving on the quality of fuel, since such savings then result in very significant expenses for car repairs.

Monitor the fuel level in the tank. The fact is that the fuel pump is cooled by the same gasoline that it pumps. Accordingly, if there is little fuel, or the pump runs idle, it may overheat and therefore fail. Knowledgeable people also advise cleaning the gas tank at the appropriate time and not neglecting this procedure. This is, perhaps, all the prevention of problems with the fuel pump.

VAZ 21213 | Checking the fuel pump

Checking the fuel pump

GENERAL INFORMATION

The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank. ATTENTION
Do not use open fire near the workplace, do not smoke or hold any very hot objects. There is a danger of an accident! Keep a fire extinguisher ready.

Ensure proper ventilation of the workplace.
Fuel vapors are poisonous. The fuel system is under pressure. If the system is opened, fuel may escape under pressure. Collect fuel with a rag. Wear safety glasses. Test conditions:
The battery must be fully charged, the voltage should not be less than 11.5 V.

CHECKING THE VOLTAGE SUPPLY

EXECUTION ORDER

CHECKING PUMP PERFORMANCE

EXECUTION ORDER

automn.ru

Fuel pump repair on Kalina

Welcome! Fuel pump - in general, the fuel pump cannot be repaired and is immediately replaced, but in this article we will talk to you not about the fuel pump itself (This is its second name), but about repairing the fuel module, which includes the fuel pump itself, as well as the Fuel Level Sensor and fuel pressure regulator (There are still some parts on the module, but we won’t describe them all; as you read the article, you will come across them anyway, so it just doesn’t make sense to talk about them again).

Note! To repair the fuel module, you need tools, namely: Pliers and a set of screwdrivers, you don’t need anything else, but this is provided that the fuel module itself has already been removed from the car, if you only have to remove it, then these tools are added to a hammer and a drift, which you also need to stock up on (If not, then you can do without it; a screwdriver, by the way, can even replace it)!

Fuel pump repair
Additional video clip

Where is the fuel pump located? The fuel module itself is located inside the gas tank; if you remove it and remove the glass from the module at the same time (You will learn in more detail how to do this operation as you read the article, there will be pictures) then you will have access to all the parts of the fuel module (To all the parts include the pump itself, as well as the mesh, fuel pressure regulator, etc.), for clarity, just below we have placed a photo in which the glass has already been removed from the module, and the red arrow indicates the fuel pump itself, which is located inside the housing.

When does a fuel pump need to be repaired? As soon as the car stops driving and the pump begins to make a lot of noise (you will immediately recognize this noise when the engine is running), and the car may still twitch, then this indicates that the pump has become unusable and needs to be replaced (But the fuel filter may also be clogged or the mesh of the fuel module may also be clogged, in this case the car will work identically as if the fuel pump fails), as for the Fuel Level Sensor which is present on the fuel module, and so if it fails, the fuel indicator which is located on the instrument panel will begin to incorrectly show the remaining gasoline in the tank (For example, the indicator needle may fall and show nothing at all), in addition to this, there is also a fuel pressure regulator on the module, so if it fails, the car may also start to drive poorly and start up just as poorly , the next part that is present on the fuel module is a mesh for cleaning the fuel entering the car engine (This mesh is scientifically called a coarse fuel filter), it becomes clogged over time and must be replaced (a new mesh costs a penny) or if you don’t have There are no stores where it is sold or you just feel sorry for the money, then you can still wash it, you won’t wash away all the dirt, but it will be much better, so when it fails, the pump itself has to work for wear and tear (with all its power) and therefore will soon fail behind this mesh, the fuel pump itself will become unusable, the symptoms of a clogged mesh are exactly the same as when the pump malfunctions, that is, it starts to make noise (Because you have to work harder), the car starts to drive poorly, as if it’s stalling (But it’s not tripping, it’s completely different, just twitching you might say), etc.

Checking the starter motor.

Lada Priora Sedan Logbook Preparing for winter. Starter

If the starter malfunctions, if the starter does not turn on, you should check the serviceability of its electric motor. To do this, use a screwdriver to bridge the upper and lower bolts on the solenoid relay. In this case, the electric motor should begin to rotate at idle, that is, without rotating the crankshaft. Rotation should be without extraneous noise and resistance to rotation. If the electric motor is working properly, then you should remove the wire from the control chip of the solenoid relay and use a screwdriver to bridge the free relay terminal with the upper bolt.

This operation must be carried out with the gear off and the car secured against spontaneous rolling. In this case, the starter should start working with the rotation of the engine crankshaft.

If, when bridging the upper bolt of the solenoid relay with the control terminal, the solenoid relay does not operate, then you need to check the battery charge and the condition of the terminals connected to it. Remove the solenoid relay and check the serviceability of the windings. If the solenoid relay is working properly, then most likely the brushes are worn out. The starter must be removed from the vehicle and repaired. If, when you turn on the starter, it fires the second or third time or more, then it is necessary to replace the solenoid relay. The contacts for switching on the electric motor were burnt out.

If the starter turns on, but the starter rotation speed is low, then you need to check the voltage at the battery terminals with a tester. When the starter is operating, it should not be less than 9V. Otherwise, the starter must be removed and repaired. Possible malfunctions may include wear of brushes, bushings, or a fallen stator magnet. If the voltage at the terminals is normal, then you should check the voltage at the starter itself. To do this, place the tester probes on the upper bolt and starter housing, and turn it on. A voltage drop less than previously measured on the battery indicates poor contact in the fastening of the wire from the battery to the starter or engine housing. If, when the starter is turned on, it idles, that is, does not rotate the engine crankshaft, it should be removed and repaired. Possible malfunctions may be a break in the textolite gear of the gearbox, rotation of the bendix, or weakening of the flywheel ring.

Replacing the fuel pump on Kalina

Welcome! Fuel pump - is responsible for supplying fuel from the tank to the car engine; if it fails, fuel stops being supplied to the engine and therefore the car will not start, or over time it may simply start to work worse and in this case the car will twitch when driving and it will lose dynamics (the fuel pump in such a situation will still pump fuel into the engine, but it will do it very much), besides this, the fuel pump no longer serves anything, although if you think about it, it goes first together with the Fuel Level Sensor , secondly, there is still a mesh on it that cleans gasoline from dirt, so we can say, thanks to the gas pump, we also find out how much fuel is left in the tank and even before this fuel goes into the engine, it is cleared of small particles of dirt, by the way, we will give advice, If you don’t want to change the fuel pump very often, then try never to bring the gasoline in the tank to the very minimum and especially do not drive the car until it runs out of gas (Only do this in rare cases or because of the situation), otherwise such trains will not lead to anything good and soon the fuel pump (this is its second name) will become unusable.

Note! To replace this pump on a car, you will need a set of tools in which: Screwdrivers will be lying around, a hammer and a drift, but in principle, the help of screwdrivers will be enough (But this is only if you don’t have a hammer with a drift, if you do, be sure to take them)!

Replacing the fuel pump
Additional video clip

Lada Kalina - Car Owners Blog The starter does not turn

I mean, I leave the house, get into the Kalina and try to start it, but all my attempts led to nothing.
When you turn on the ignition, the fuel pump is activated, you can hear it humming, and then a click appears. But when you turn the key to start the engine, there is no response. I continued to do this several times and finally it started, probably about the fifth time. I didn’t have much time to sit and look for the cause of this malfunction, so I went straight to my business and decided that I would start searching a little later. I left normally that day, I already forgot about this incident, and the next morning it happened again. And again, only after several attempts did the engine start.

Since there was nowhere to rush, I decided that I needed to see what could be the matter. I opened the hood, got out of the car and let's look at the wiring. First of all, I tried how tightly the terminals on the battery were seated; I remember that at one time it was precisely because of poor contact of the negative terminal of the battery that there were problems with starting. I moved them and even tightened them a little, hoping that they were to blame for this problem, but when I tried to start my Kalina, I was convinced that I needed to look elsewhere.

I think if it was a fuse, it would have burned out and that’s it, but I still looked at the safety and thought maybe it was just coming off, but it turned out everything was fine and no nuances were identified in the safety block.

Then it dawned on me that most likely due to driving in rainy weather, and water getting under the hood of Kalina well, most likely something was wrong with the positive wire on the starter. I moved this wire, and after that my swallow began to start as before, with half a turn. But not for long. The next day the starter did not turn over again, I again climbed under the hood and removed this positive wire, looked, but it was all oxidized, and the contact was lost several times. I cleaned it thoroughly, lubricated it with lithol, pressed it a little so that it fit tighter and put it in place.

Now the starter has been turning for a couple of weeks, and no more similar cases have arisen, so dear Kalinovody, if suddenly your Lada Kalina starts to behave like this, then you should pay attention to the very wire that I talked about

What are the main advantages and disadvantages of the pump?

Initially, the design features of this unit will seem simple. However, in order to understand in detail the principle of operation of the unit, it is necessary to proceed to an explanation of the following aspects.

The situation is interesting in that the fuel tank in the Lada Kalina is placed by the developers under the bottom in the rear of the car. It is connected to the fuel rail under the hood via lines. To be able to supply gasoline at a given pressure parameter, you will need an efficient and high-performance gasoline pump.

The main feature of this unit is that it operates on an electric drive. This allows the pump not only to efficiently supply fuel to the elements of the injection system, but also to have enviable reliability.

The main advantages of the fuel system pump unit are considered to be:

timely provision of injection elements with the required volume of fuel, regardless of the engine operating mode;
simple design and decent resource;
high safety, because the fuel pump stops functioning as soon as the engine stops.

Next, let's look at the main disadvantages that this unit has acquired:

noise during operation;
need for constant cooling;
sensitivity to fuel quality indicators.

It is the use of substandard gasoline in combination with untimely replacement of the filter that can guarantee the failure of this expensive unit. There is a situation when the engine does not pump. In this case, you need to know how to check it and, if necessary, how to remove it.

Diagnosis and Troubleshooting

It is relatively simple to verify that the electrical network is faulty - this can be done without removing the fuel pump. When the sound of its operation is not heard when the ignition is turned on, you must immediately check the fuse responsible for this circuit. It is installed in a block mounted at the bottom in front of the front passenger seat.

If the operation of the fuel pump has not resumed, you should switch your attention to relay K2, located in the same block. It closes the power circuit of the pumping device based on a signal from the controller. You can also check the serviceability of the relay in road conditions, for which you will need a piece of copper wire. Diagnostics are carried out in the following order:

Remove relay K2 from the connector.
Turn on the ignition.
Using a wire, connect the contacts marked “30” and “87”; the numbers are marked on the relay. Another option is to apply power to pin “11” located in the diagnostic connector. The 12 V voltage can be taken nearby, from the cigarette lighter.
If you hear the pump humming, then you need to change relay K2.

If after the above manipulations the unit is still “silent”, it is necessary to check the integrity of the wiring and the reliability of the contact at the place of its connection. This will require a device, so it will not be possible to carry out such work in the middle of a field. Unless you can check the serviceability of the fuel pump itself by disconnecting the connectors from it and supplying 12 V directly from any convenient source. If the pump still does not hum, it should be replaced.

It will not be possible to diagnose insufficient fuel supply to the injectors under road conditions, unless you carry a pressure gauge with a corresponding hose for connection to the fuel rail. The amount of gasoline supplied is characterized by the pressure in the network, to measure which you will need a pressure gauge.

Twist off the plastic cap covering the diagnostic fitting. It is located at the end of the fuel rail and is a regular spool.
Press the spool rod to release the pressure in the line. In case of gasoline leakage, place a small container under the spool. Perhaps the malfunction will make itself felt already at this stage if there is no pressure in the network and no fuel flows from the fitting.
Unscrew the spool and put the hose from the pressure gauge onto the fitting. With the ignition off, apply 12 V directly to the pump. To clearly record the readings, it must work for at least 10 seconds.

If the pressure is below 3.6 bar, you must first change the coarse filter. If this does not help, then you will have to check the RTD and the tightness of the injectors. This is the only way to accurately determine the source of the problem.

The need for fuel purification

To prevent malfunction of the pump unit in Lada Kalina, it is necessary to purchase fuel only from trusted suppliers, and also promptly replace the filter element of the system.

Impurities must be filtered not only through the specified consumable component. They are also neutralized:

in a mesh located on the suction pipe of the pump unit;
in the filter module for fine fuel purification, which is “embedded” directly into the line;
using the mesh located near the pressure level regulator in the ramp;
mesh until it gets inside the nozzle.

The aspects reflected in the first two paragraphs have a significant impact on the correct functionality of the pumping unit.

It is necessary to replace the filter in a Lada Kalina car after an interval of 30 thousand km. Owners systematically forget about the need to clean or replace the mesh on the pump nozzle. This is not surprising, since the manufacturer did not regulate this type of work and did not indicate the frequency of actions. They begin to “move” only in situations where the fuel pump exhibits characteristic malfunctions.

However, there are recommendations based on the experience of the owners. They hint at the need to clean or replace the mesh (if it is damaged) every 60 thousand km (or earlier).

How to maintain the pump and what are its main breakdowns?

The power system unit in Lada Kalina does not always require its own replacement. Sometimes you can get away with repairs. For this purpose, you will need to first stock up on the necessary tools.

Diagnosis of a node is carried out by monitoring its two main parameters:

working pressure;
productivity.

After dismantling the device, it would be useful to measure its rated current and a similar indicator during maximum load. To carry out these measurements, you will need to place the pumping unit on a special stand.

The first stage of monitoring is measuring the voltage at the power connector, which is connected directly to the network. This indicator should be 12 Volts. The working pump makes a characteristic noise. The disadvantage of this method is the possibility of incorrect readings from the diagnostic device if there is a weak contact in the pump switching circuit. In fact, the operating voltage can be significantly lower than the indicated 12 Volts, and the device will show exactly this value.

One of the reasons why the pump stops functioning is the failure of the control relay. This breakdown is very easy to diagnose. There is a special symbol on the instrument panel that gives a signal to the driver of the Lada Kalina if a designated malfunction occurs in the system.

The relay block is located inside the cabin. Serviceable components make characteristic clicking noises during operation. Replacing the relay is painfully simple. Here you just need to find it among other “brothers”.

Pressure diagnostics involves monitoring its parameter during the pumping mode. It occurs after turning on the ignition. In this case, the pump is activated for approximately 2 seconds to replenish the circuit with fuel. The value of such pressure in the LADA Kalina system is 0.8-1.2 kgf/cm2. When the indicated parameter turns out to be underestimated, it is recommended to search for the cause. Here it is necessary to follow the sequence of checks, moving from one link to another. We check the filter element, then the mesh, and then the pump.

Among the common malfunctions is the fact that the operating pressure in the line is lost immediately after the pump (that is, the engine) stops; in this case, the pump does not pump fuel. This breakdown will need to be determined correctly, since there are quite a lot of reasons causing the pressure to decrease. You need to know how to check the system. Among the “suspected” components are: a loose injector valve, a non-functioning check valve on the pump, and a pressure level regulator. Intensively decreasing pressure can cause difficulties in starting the engine. This point is especially relevant in winter.

When, based on the diagnostic results, it is determined that it is necessary to replace the pump, if it does not pump, or the filter (the manipulations are almost identical), in the LADA Kalina car, the actions are carried out according to the algorithm below. Next, we will tell you how to remove and replace the element in case of a malfunction.

We remove the pressure level inside the fuel rail. To this end, we start the engine and look for the required fuse in the mounting block, which is responsible for the functionality of this unit. We remove the insert from the socket and wait until the engine has completely used up the fuel, after which it stops.
Now we de-energize the network by removing the terminals from the battery contacts.
We provide access to the fuel pump hatch. In the cabin, remove the stern seat cushion. We see the manhole cover. We dismantle it by unscrewing 4 screws (we stock up on the appropriate screwdriver).
Disconnect the LADA Kalina block with wires from the pump connector.
We unscrew the fasteners of the fuel lines from the pump module and remove them from the fittings.
We use a special puller to remove the retaining ring. You can do without the indicated device, but it will take more time.
Now we remove the pump module from the landing niche in the tank. We avoid the risk of damaging the float by “pulling” the entire structure diagonally and upward.
We install a new pumping unit using the reverse algorithm.

Checking the switching circuit when the starter is faulty.

When the ignition switch is turned on, the starter does not turn.
Why does the starter not respond to turning the ignition key? This also happens. If the starter has worked and the crankshaft rotates at normal speed, then you should find a malfunction in the retractor relay switching circuit. To do this, put the wire removed from the relay back into place, swap relay K3 with the adjacent one in the mounting block and check the operation of the starter by turning the ignition key.

If the starter does not work, remove the starter activation relay K3 from the mounting block and briefly bridge terminals 30 and 87 in the vacated socket. In this case, the starter should start working. If this does not happen, then check with a test lamp for the presence of a plus at pin 30 of the socket. Connect one end of the control lamp to the car body, and touch pin 30 with the other, the control lamp should light up. If this does not happen, then most likely the current-carrying path in the mounting block is damaged.

If the starter has worked, then connect pins 85 and 86 of the socket with a test lamp and turn the ignition key to start. The warning lamp should light up, otherwise the contact group of the ignition switch or its connector is faulty.

admin18/07/2012

car repair, starter

comments 3

Subscribe to comments

Anton - January 6th, 2014 at 15:41
Guys, tell me - the starter spins at idle, the traction relay was replaced - the result is the same. When the contacts are bridged, the relay clicks but does not work. I changed the starter relay - nothing. Is the problem in the planetary gear or in the overrunning clutch?
admin — January 6th, 2014 at 10:17 pm
If the starter is geared and we are talking about a VAZ, then most likely it is a planetary gear, or rather a broken plastic gear. If it’s a Gazelle, it’s most likely an overrunning clutch (Bendix). In any case, you need to remove and disassemble the starter. If the planetary gears are intact, then the bendix needs to be replaced, regardless of its condition. Answer
Peter — June 28th, 2013 at 18:05
good and intelligible, but it’s a pity that there is no printable version, it’s not very convenient to run from the garage to the computer)), and well done, a very necessary site

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VAZ 21214 fuel pump does not work - The fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on