Why does the alternator belt whistle in Renault Logan?

There is a misconception that the whistling of the alternator belt, which is sometimes very sharp, indicates its worn-out condition and requires replacement as soon as possible. I would like to immediately note that this assumption is true only in half of the cases. After all, the reason for the appearance of such a whistle may be completely different.

The appearance of a whistle from under the hood “when cold”

So, the appearance of a whistle in the alternator belt when starting the car, so to speak “in the cold,” is not at all the cause or symptom of a breakdown of this component of the car. Whistling when cold may appear as a result of increased belt rigidity. In particular, this rigidity, especially in the cold season and when the car is not warmed up, is what causes a sharp, unpleasant whistle.

Due to excessive cooling of the alternator belt, especially in winter, it becomes stiff and begins to whistle when starting the car, but as soon as the car begins to warm up, this whistle becomes quieter and quieter, disappearing when the car is completely warmed up.

Such a belt does not require replacement, unless of course this sound annoys you, in which case you can replace it with a more elastic one, which will not make an unpleasant sound during a cold start.

Is a “hard” belt to blame?

Is the belt always to blame?

But there are cases when the reasons for the whistling of the generator belt are not due to its excessive rigidity. In such cases, it is worth understanding the structure of this component of the car and the reasons for the whistling sound in a little more detail.

The generator is a very important part, or rather a mechanical unit of the car, thanks to which all the electrical systems of the car receive the necessary power for their proper operation. To do this, the rotor requires continuous rotation, which in turn ensures the connection between the rotor and the engine crankshaft by a belt.

To be more precise, pulleys are mounted in both units, which are connected to each other by the generator belt, and the whistle appears precisely from this system. In view of this, the creaking may appear as a result of friction of parts or their incorrect operation. So, when the generator belt is weakened, the pulleys begin to malfunction and allow slippage, as a result of which a creaking sound appears.

The main causes of whistling when the engine is running

But there are other reasons for this unpleasant sound:

1. a heavily worn alternator belt, which can no longer be tensioned to the required level;
2. the belt is made of poor quality, or from low-quality materials (too hard);
3. if one of the technical fluids (oil, antifreeze or antifreeze) gets on the belt as a result of car repairs. If traces of coolant are found, it is necessary to check its level in the tank and replace it if necessary.

But do not forget that replacing the belt is not a way to get rid of this problem, because a belt can creak for many reasons. Before changing it, carefully inspect the entire generator system, carefully examining every detail, and understand why the whistle appears.

Tears and abrasions

Cracks and micro-abrasions

After opening the hood, first inspect the belt itself for tears, abrasions or delamination. There is no point in pulling with such a belt; it must be replaced urgently, without waiting for it to completely break.

Alternator belt part number

82 00 833 541 - original code for the alternator belt.

Tension level

Check the tension level, because the weaker it is, the stronger the whistle or squeak will be; this can be corrected by simply tightening the belt and checking the tension level while the car is running.

Why does it whistle?

This device is a must-have device in the design of a modern car. It provides power to the vehicle's numerous electronic equipment and also replenishes the battery's energy that was wasted when starting the engine. This occurs when the generator set produces electrical voltage. To do this, rotational motion must be imparted to the generator shaft.

A belt drive performs this function best. It consists of two pulleys, one of which is installed on the engine crankshaft, and the second on the generator shaft, as well as a drive belt. Most often, annoying sounds come from this rather simple mechanism. These transmissions may differ in their design features, but the interconnection of their parts remains the same, therefore the main signs of malfunction of their operation remain incorrectly set tension of the belt drive.

In addition, the culprit of such an unpleasant phenomenon may be premature failure of the belt drive. This can manifest itself in its stretching, after which the density of contact between the belt and the pulley grooves is lost. This situation can be aggravated by water getting between the planes of the belt and pulleys, or, even worse, engine oil.

The latter, moreover, leads to accelerated wear of the belt. Cracks appear on it, which gradually expand, and then it ruptures. Slipping of the belt body in the pulley tracks is the main source of such an unpleasant sound as a whistle coming from the engine compartment.

Sometimes the cause of such an unpleasant noise can be the poor quality of the manufactured belt. Car owners should be very suspicious of products with suspiciously low prices. It can only be obtained by using low quality materials. Also, you should not save on purchasing a new part by continuing to use the old spare part after its recommended service life has expired.

It is impossible not to mention another possible reason for the appearance of whistles from the generator set. It can be caused by a sharp increase in the electrical current consumption of the vehicle's on-board network by the vehicle's electronic devices. This may include turning on the high beams, fog lights, air conditioning and other similar devices. Because of this, the magnetic field’s opposition to stator rotation increases, which causes additional load on the belt. When it is worn out or loosely tensioned, a whistle appears.

conclusions

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During the operation of the car, the owner is faced with many problems, including an unpleasant situation with the alternator belt. He begins, seemingly for no reason, to “whistle”, and it is not so easy to immediately guess why this is happening. In our case, we are not talking about a worn or old belt. Everything is clear here - I replaced everything. No, everything is much more interesting, and, as in an exciting English detective story, we will look for a cause-and-effect relationship.

Inspect the belt and look for reasons why the belt whistles.

So, why does the new alternator belt “whistle”? As it turns out, there are several reasons for this and they are all presented below.

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Suxuki SX4 spare parts

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Briefly about the hanging belt

Belt drive is the most common method of transmitting rotation to the generator rotor. The method has been used for a long time and differs from others in its simplicity: only two pulleys on shafts that are connected by a belt.

The belt itself is responsible for a lot. It is he who is responsible for transmitting rotation from pulley to pulley. You should be aware that one part of the belt is tighter than the other . It is the difference between these tensions that determines the traction force and its coefficient.

Belt whistling and its causes

Some motorists refer to the fact that the belt was allegedly of poor quality and replace it, but everything starts all over again. For this reason, in order not to waste valuable time and extra money, it is recommended to inspect the entire belt drive. Analyzing the conditions under which the whistle occurs is the most useful judgment a car owner can make.

The check comes down to the following steps:

• the integrity of the belt is checked (we agree with the version that today even new products can be of poor quality);
• the degree of tension is checked (as is known, belt squeaks often occur due to weak tension);
• the cleanliness of the shaft is checked (another reason for the “whistle”, which is described in detail below);
• the line of two pulleys is checked for displacement.

Five main reasons why a generator whistles

Below is a list of the most common causes of alternator belt whistling:

Cleanliness of car parts is an important rule that the owner of the vehicle must observe. Oil that accidentally gets on the belt or shaft causes an unpleasant squeak. This happens due to the fact that the belt loses its former adhesion to the surface of the shaft and slips.

The provisions listed above are the main ones. But this does not mean that there cannot be other reasons. The most important thing is to respond to the problem in a timely manner and take immediate measures to eliminate it, then you will forget how the generator belt whistles.

Today, in the “Useful Tips for Car Owners” section, I will talk about why the alternator belt whistles when under load, when it is cold, and in general, for what reason a whistle may appear. The article will help you find and eliminate alternator belt whistling , or rather its cause.

Each of you has probably noticed more than once such a phenomenon when a car passing by, in addition to the usual car noise, made a nasty whistle, squeal or squeak, whoever calls it... Have you noticed? Or perhaps your car is whistling like a robber nightingale, but you don’t know what’s wrong and what to do about it? The reason for this nasty whistle is most often located somewhere in the generator area, and where exactly you will now find out.

Belt whistle. What is the reason and how to fix it? Video lecture #2

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video content

Rating: 4.5; Votes: 2 A common problem is the whistling of the alternator belt in the morning after starting the car. In this video we tried to answer in detail the questions: why is there whistling in the morning? What is whistling? How to eliminate belt squealing? Using Renault Megane2 1, 6 as an example, we also looked at the main rollers on Duster, Logan, Lada Largus, Nissan Almera G15, Fluence, Megan3 Numbers of rollers and belts: Tensioner roller with mechanism on Renault Logan, Sandero until 2010. in, Simbol, Megan1, Scenic1, Kangu 8200403954, GA35514 (the belt on them is 5PK1750) Tensioner roller with mechanism for Renault Logan, Sandero after 2010. c, Duster 1, 6 16V, Nissan Almera G15, Lada Largus, Logan2, Sandero2 8200933753, T39163 (the belt on them is 6PK1822) Tensioner roller with mechanism for Renault Megane2, Scenic2, Duster 1, 5dCi, Megane3, Fluence 117509654R, GA35515 (belt on them 6PK1200, sometimes on Megan2 there is 5PK1200) Tension roller with mechanism on Renault Duster 2, 0 16V 8200840823, GA35500 (belt 7PK1792) Date: 2019-06-26

← Replacing the front wheel bearing on a Renault with ABS. So that the error does not appear. Video lecture #2

Water in the cabin on the carpet? Cleaning drains, inspecting windshield wiper trapezoids. Video lecture#2 →

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Comments and reviews: 10

Vlad Shimansky squeaking of tensioners not only in this car model, it also appears over time on Alfa Romeo and others with similar tensioner designs, the problem is in the inner bushing where the axle goes, from the factory there is a minimum of lubricant, over time it dries out and begins to rub the aluminum on the steel axle, the symmetry of the roller goes away and begins to drag the belt, mainly to the edge, usually the entire tensioner is replaced, but if you disassemble and lubricate this axle every two or three years, the tensioner lasts longer. On the engine side, for example, in alpha, a thrust washer is pressed onto the axle; it easily gets knocked off, and the axle is removed and assembled in the same way. There is a cone in this tensioner and it wears out just as quickly due to the lack of lubrication, but they most likely do this so that it does not run for a long time, the service life is obviously low.

Andrey Kislov When installing new rollers, you should always open the seal on the bearing and fill it with good lubricant, preferably high-temperature lubricant. I realized this from my own experience only the third time. At first I sinned on the double Phoebe, then I installed SNR, but the result was the same - after 2-3 months the roller jammed and the belt fell off (it didn’t break. Then I installed MAPCO, but first I washed the bearing from transport lubricant, and then filled it with high-temperature grease. Since then I have driven about 50 thousand, after which the edge of the plastic roller housing broke off and the belt tore, but the bearing itself was in working condition. After that, I bought a new belt and changed both rollers - tensioner and parasitic rollers with a replacement of lubricant. I did not change the tensioning mechanism itself. With belt and rollers Now everything is fine.

Alexey Grechishkin Amendments to the description. Although the video was shot primarily for cars with automatic tensioners, I believe that it was possible to talk more fully about all the options for rollers and belts. It is necessary to point out that 5pk1750 and 6pk1822 are belts strictly for cars with air conditioning, because without it the belt is 5pk1110, but there are also ones without a 4pk718 steering wheel. It was also possible to show videos for cars without air conditioning, these are 2 more types. More about Megan 2, 5pk1200 is not sometimes found, but on all Megan 2 of the first phase until 2006, a 5pk1200 belt comes from the factory. But already in phase 2 there is a 6pk1200 belt. Otherwise, well done, it’s interesting to watch, even though you already know most of the things)

Roman Petrov Thank you very much for another video. I would like to ask you to clarify one issue. There is an opinion that the new crankshaft damper pulleys have a thinner rubber part. Because of this, its damping properties are lower, which causes increased vibrations of the auxiliary drive belt. This can be eliminated by installing an overrunning clutch on the generator pulley, which is installed on all new generators. I would like to know your opinion. And find out which overrunning clutch to install, because there is confusion in the article numbers ina 535010510 and 535010210. In my case we are talking about Megan 2 f 2. Thank you.

Sabrina Guys, hello. I really need your advice. I drive Logan 1. And, oddly enough, I’ve been very happy for 5 years. Not long ago I thought that I would like to find a new Logan phase 1 with a mileage close to zero. And, my goodness, in my neighbor’s garage there is a Logan 2008 1.4 mpi with a mileage of 1.5 thousand km. The neighbor claims that it hasn’t started for 7-8 years. I’ve lived nearby for 5 years and it definitely hasn’t started. Showed it to me. One hundred pounds almost new. At first I was pretty excited. But then I thought - how everything rubber will crumble, change all the fluids, the timing belt and it’s not clear what the pistons and mirrors are. Tell me, if the information is correct, is it worth contacting the car? Thank you.

Isaac Bariev whistles in my KamAZ in the morning, it is eliminated by tensioning the roller, the legnion is stretched, stretched as the rivulets wear out, + the load on the gene battery charge is 100-150 thousand. Belts of this type are guaranteed to run if it is not a Chinese fake, the roller never whistles, its bearings simply scatter noticeably across the tachometer immediately, they crumble only because the lubrication in them is complete, if you are not too lazy, once every 50 thousand you can remove it, break off the protective collar of the separator with balls and stuff it grams of lithol, the problem of his sudden death will go away forever

Nikolay Panteleev Well done guys. I can’t find your contacts Renault Logan 9 years old 1. 6 8 cl. I start it in the morning, the revs rise and begin to drop almost to zero, it almost stalls and in an instant everything levels out and works well. And so on only until the engine cools down completely. If you immediately turn it off and start it, this doesn’t happen until it stops again. I washed the throttle, washed the xx sensor, put the throttle on the sealant (since the ring was not on sale), the module was live, the wires were live, two-pin spark plugs. I don’t know what to do anymore, please tell me.

GEORGIY GRISHENKO Thanks for the interesting video Of course, I didn’t observe the whistle, but there was another situation when the belt turned out to be all cracked and with parts of the streams torn out after a run in the range of 250-500 km. The noise from the belt appeared on its last breath, but I localized the fault in time and replaced it with a new one, which now runs without problems. But I forgot to check the rollers of the generator and compressor, but in the winter (in cold weather -25) I heard a squeak from one of them.

Alexander I have the following question. I own a Renault Symbol 2004 1.4 8 class car, mileage 330 thousand, so it’s already like 200 thousand. I change the rivulet belt as it should be, I change it directly as a set, i.e. the belt and the tensioner itself. So this is the question, after installation, the edge of the belt is always flush with the edge of the roller (to the edge of the roller which is closer to the engine, and there is simply nowhere to screw the roller in order to move it further towards the body. And I don’t know why: /

Evgeniy Ermakov Very grateful. Very informative. The service department always says: don’t pay attention, you still have 15,000 km before replacing the timing belt. Question: Is it worth replacing the coolant pump when replacing the timing belt and rollers? They advise because under the hood, opposite the belt, there is a black streak of splashes and antifreeze is constantly slowly leaking somewhere, and when you turn on the heater, there is a smell of burnt antifreeze or oil, something like that?