The engine takes oil VAZ 2107 what to do mileage 80,000

The engine is “eating oil”: why does this happen and should we sound the alarm?

Over time and with age, fuel consumption increases. It's subtle. Oil also has to be added more and more often and at some point this begins to worry. Let's figure out how this affects your wallet.

Why is oil consumption increasing?

First of all, you need to understand how and why oil is wasted in general.

Warning: all further discussions are based on my understanding of the engine’s operation and do not claim to be the absolute truth.

Oil losses not associated with leaks through seals and gaskets can only occur through the combustion chamber and exhaust pipe. Oil can enter the combustion chamber in three ways:

1. Through the crankcase ventilation system in the form of vapors. 2. Remaining on the cylinder walls after the downward stroke of the piston. Oil scraper rings leave behind some oil. 3. Oil penetrates into the cylinder along the valve stems through the valve stem seals.

While the engine is new, all these parts work best and oil consumption is minimal. As the rings wear, they leave an increasingly thick film of oil on the cylinder walls; The caps also perform their duties worse.

Even through the crankcase ventilation system, where there are no wearing parts, losses increase. As the cylinder-piston group wears out, the amount of crankcase gases increases, which means the removal of oil vapors into the intake tract increases. An oil separator that becomes dirty over time also works worse.

In short, an increase in oil consumption with mileage is a completely natural and inevitable process. Second question:

When should you worry about oil burn?

About twenty years ago, this issue was discussed in the magazine “Behind the Wheel”. Over the years, I can get the numbers wrong, but I remember the following recommendations from the magazine: if oil consumption through waste reaches 100 grams per 1000 km, it’s time to repair the engine. For Kalina this is approximately 0.2% of fuel consumption. Let me emphasize once again that the accuracy of the numbers is not too important, since it is important to understand the principle.

How do I resolve this issue for myself?

Oil is money. Engine repair is also money. Two years ago, a standard hour at the nearest car service center cost 3,500 rubles. For simplicity, let’s assume that replacing the caps is a little less than three standard hours, that is, the cost of the work is 10 thousand rubles.

We calculate in rubles the cost of topping up between oil changes:

6 l (fuel consumption per hundred) x 0.02% x 150 (shift interval in hundreds of kilometers) x 200 rubles. (price of a liter of oil) = 360 rubles.

I change the oil twice a year, which means my oil waste costs per year are 720 rubles or so. Replacing valve stem seals with the help of a car service will pay for itself no earlier than in 10 years. Of course, the above calculation is full of rough assumptions. But they do not affect the output. It is not profitable to repair the engine due to oil consumption due to waste, unless you are going to drive this car forever.

An alternative solution is to replace the caps yourself. But, firstly, you need to work with your hands))). And secondly, without the proper experience, there is a high risk of doing the work poorly.

My solution: I continue to drive and add oil as needed. Colleagues. Express your point of view on this issue in the comments.

Source: xn—-8sbabr6ahc3e.xn--p1ai

Reasons why the engine consumes oil?

Valve seals very often cause increased engine oil consumption. Oil seals are installed on the valves of the gas distribution system. Unexpected phenomena are possible here. For example, a poorly warmed-up engine increases the likelihood of hardening of the cap seals significantly, and there is no need to talk about used engines. A “stiffened” cap will not provide a seal, therefore, oil will flow freely under the guide sleeve, along the valve stem. After this, the engine oil will either fly out along with the exhaust gases, or enter the combustion chamber and, burning, cover the spark plugs. The result is a velvety soot on the spark plugs and interruptions in engine operation.

Piston rings are the second most likely reason why an engine is burning oil. One piston usually has three rings, two compression rings on top, and one oil scraper ring underneath them. I hope you know what compression rings are for. With their help, the manufacturer reduces the gap between the piston and the cylinder wall, resulting in maximum efficiency of the transmitted energy for engine rotation. In order to reduce the friction that occurs between the compression rings and the cylinder walls, oil is supplied to them, the remains of which are removed by the oil scraper rings. Wear of these rings leads to the fact that some of the oil will remain on the walls, therefore, oil consumption will increase. As a result, one day you will miss several liters of engine oil and come to the conclusion that the engine is eating oil.

During its “life”, the motor undergoes a large number of heating and cooling cycles. At the same time, all engine parts are tested. Wear of piston rings or loss of elasticity, in addition to reducing compression, is also fraught with the occurrence of a phenomenon called flutter. This phenomenon has been little studied, but one thing is known for sure: when the engine is running, the ring can oscillate along the piston radius with a high frequency, or can repeatedly jump from one edge of the piston groove to the other. Due to such fluctuations, the engine consumes almost liters of oil; most often this malfunction manifests itself in the form of characteristic blue smoke from the exhaust.

Low quality motor oil, as well as oil that does not match the type of engine, also often causes the engine to start to take oil. This reason indirectly affects the previous malfunction. The fact is that each engine has its own oil; if it is chosen incorrectly, its consumption can increase significantly. Due to the fact that the oil is too liquid, the piston rings cannot “collect” it and it remains on the cylinder walls and, after the fuel-air mixture is ignited, it burns along with it. As a result, it either “flies out” with the exhaust, or is deposited in the combustion chamber or on spark plugs, but no matter how you look at it, the oil level will constantly decrease. Also, often the “wrong” oil is deposited in a thick oily layer on engine parts, this can lead to “sticking” or coking of the rings. If the rings are stuck, compression is lost in all engine cylinders.

Oil burn on the new engine 11186 illusion or reality

#1 Practitioner

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Car make: GFL1100, VAZ 11173,)
From: Novosibirsk, Krasnoobsk

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And the continuation today:

on a run of 13,000 km I discovered oil on the thread of the spark plug of the first cylinder: there was no panic, but this fact did not bring joy either. After 2000 km nothing has changed:

I thought about the MSK of the first cylinder due to the crookedness of the installers at the factory or a defect. I replaced the valve caps of the first cylinder with caps from the Lada Detail store.

After 8,000 km at 21,000 km, after changing the oil, I discovered soot on the exhaust pipe. At mileage 26,300, I turned out the spark plugs and was horrified, all the spark plugs were covered with oil deposits, all the spark plugs had oil on the threads: Oil burnt was about 700 grams over 4,500 km.

Having gathered my strength, I now decided to change the valve caps of all cylinders, thinking that the caps were screwed up for the first time. But at that time I was already wary. I cleaned the spark plugs, changed the MSK and after 1700 km I discovered the following: – picture in profile, but the eggs are the same!

As a result, after that I began to blame the Shell 5W-40 HX-8 oil itself, which I bought at Gigant, I thought that after the break-in I switched only to it and changed it, buying only in this store, I thought that the oil scraper rings were coked from its fumes pistons. But. I switched to Gazpromneft 5W-40 premium oil (synthetic) at 28,000 km, washed the engine before that, drove it until 31,380 km, about 3,000 km, and I see the same picture:

, the photos turned out bad, but they show that the threads of the spark plugs of the first, third and fourth cylinders are all covered in oil, the electrodes are all black (don’t look at the photo, they were whitened by the light from the flash). When I stood still and accelerated to 4000 - 4500 rpm, gray smoke with the smell of oil began pouring out of the pipe, but for some reason there was no gray smoke. Oil consumption was about 1000 grams over 3000 km. Now I'm really panicking! I want to try Lavra decoking soon. If that doesn’t help, then I’ll probably either seal the valve bushings (don’t write that this can’t be done, anything is possible!)

The question is: is this an obvious defect in the engine components or its feature, passed down from Prior engines with a lightweight piston, people, respond?! The most important sign is the new engine, I don’t really race hard, but I drive fast and dynamically, within reason, up to 100 km/h. In the city - 40 - 80 km/h, I don’t raise the speed above 3500, mostly 2000 - 2500.

#2 fast

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Car make: Mitsubishi-Outlander, VAZ-2106-1994.
From: Syzran, Samara region

Why not replace the rings?

#3 locksmith1965

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Car make: 1118, 2190
From: 61 region Rostov region.

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Slava, I sympathize. The Granta club is not working now (and I don’t know whether it will be restored or not). There was information about these engines, people changed the pistons. Initially, they stood in a different group than the one stamped on the block.

To this day (mileage 56,000), apart from fogging of the valve cover on the gasket, I have no problems. But I also have an internal combustion engine 11183 with a “heavy” piston.

Post edited by locksmith1965: 13 September 2020 – 05:58

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#4 nimble

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Car make: Mitsubishi-Outlander, VAZ-2106-1994.
From: Syzran, Samara region

Or so. For the money, it’s not very expensive. It’s a shame, annoying, but not fatal.

Recommendations

Comments 45

What oils can you trust in our country? By the way, read about Tatneft base oils and try to find their products (synthetics) on sale.

piston from Priora, so it eats. I also eat it if you press on the slipper.

I have an OSPG, but the engine is 8v. From replacement to replacement I have never added oil for 42,000 km. Consumption at 8,000 km is about 0.3 liters, I change the oil at 7.5-8 t.km.

Well, if you press the slipper, some of the oil always flies through the ventilation hose (when I removed the receiver, there was about 20 grams of oil (that’s what didn’t fly away to burn). If you crawl like a pensioner, this will already be a minus in oil consumption. After At 4000 rpm the oil will always drain a little faster, but I’m still far from retirement))) I also often press it to the floor.

you're just cool and your car. I congratulate you on it, but basically everyone eats butter. I work as an oil changer, they often come to me to top up 8 cl engines, the latest developments from AvtoVAZ. Just because you don't have it doesn't mean others shouldn't. Good luck with your build.

I think so far so good. When it comes down to luck, it’s just that the selection of parts and assembly at the factory is not done well. Resp. you can assemble the engine as expected (as intended), even with prior pistons.

Doesn't eat butter, 186th, lightened up. shpg. I pour oils that are prescribed in the Murzilka.

How can you trust such oils as Tatneft, Lukoil or Rosneft? If you want to save money, buy good sneakers and walk.

Castrol is also butted with barrels. It's not about the brand, the main thing is not to run into a fake. And our oils are absolutely fine.

Are you absolutely sure that it was the mineral water that came from the factory. Usually, semi-synthetics come from the factory to Rosneft. I bought my car in January and in 25 degree frost it started perfectly, it’s unlikely that it will work with mineral water. Regarding the consumption, how much oil do you fill in liters. My engine has run for 30,000 and has quite a few oil spots, I change the oil from change to change (8000-10000 km) and don’t add a single ounce. The oil is semi-synthetic Shell 5w40…

According to the probe between max -min

Is the compression too low? Even though the oil is pouring there

Compression is right by the book!

In the book, only the compression ratio seems to be indicated. Prioro engines often have more than 15 compression

The nominal compression ratio is good, in general everything is smooth in the cylinders

Is the compression too low? Even though the oil is pouring there

Even a little more

Often it is even more than 16. This is with a lifespan of 11.5

Even a little more

It often happens at 13 www.drive2.ru/l/3706531/ Someone writes about 14-15

I didn’t measure it myself, the garage technician measured it and said that everything was fine there, he advised me to change the oil manufacturer,

the main thing is everything is smooth. The measurement depends on a lot of things (throttle position, speed, temperature control) and simply the error of the device.

Maybe TATNEFT IS NOT SUITABLE for a mileage of 15,000 km from replacement to replacement?

I'll tell you a secret that not one oil is normal (without losing its properties, and displacement) does not run for 15 thousand

up to 0.7 liters per 1000 km, these are the tolerances of the AvtoVAZ service. Funny? very much, but it is true, you can look on the Internet and on the drive for the corresponding instructions. — my story up to 32,000 km — I didn’t add anything at all, I changed it every 7-8 thousand km. Afterwards there was a serious repair under warranty, and the oil began to leak, and within 4-6 km it went to the empty dipstick and the oil light came on when turning. They sealed it at the service, etc. they looked, measured, in general, about 300g per 1000, and this turns out to be normal, and they will not do anything about it.

What brand of oil, viscosity, 16kl?

for a hundred pours I got 10-40. once Rosneft was 10-40, now it was 10-40 again. all synthetic. 16kl

Now after the repair, my oil consumption is like yours, what should I do? I don’t know where to turn, mechanics say maybe it’s a microcrack in the block

when the oil level “suddenly” drops, it means the oil has dropped in viscosity, it’s time to change it, especially with mineral water, the car itself tells you when to change the oil)

I apologize ROSNEFT oil

Rosneft blue was poured from the factory - consumption 200 g per 10 tons, then Tatneft blue 3 times - 150 g. The warranty engineer says 80 grams per 1 ton is factory tolerance.

Let's do the math: 800 grams per 10,000 km.

It looks like it’s somewhere around 1 liter per 15,000 if according to the replacement book, taking into account their oil Tatneft

shell helix hx8 5w40 blue, practically no consumption. Look at the oil manufacturer's specifications for waste.

Fill with normal oil and don't kill the engine.

I'll be happy to do so

Now I don’t give my comments on oil consumption. I'll tell you a story: I had a Volga 3110 with an oil consumption of 500 grams per 10,000 km. And everyone told me, what do you want? From these engines, oil leaks from all the cracks, smokes, etc. etc... this is a Volga, not a foreign car! 15 years have passed... Now they tell me that 100 grams per 1000 is generally normal!))) both in the new Peugeot and in the Golf)...

Oil consumption standards until 2020

Information letter No. 62-12 “On the rate of oil consumption in engines” dated July 2012 states that the maximum permissible engine oil consumption for LADA engines, excluding lubricant changes, is no more than 0.7 liters per 1000 km

vehicle mileage.

For LADA cars with a 1.8-liter VAZ engine (Lada Vesta and Lada XRAY), the plant has drawn up a recommendation for eliminating smoky exhaust.

In the operating manual for LADA vehicles, in the section “Engine lubrication system” it was stated:

Reasons for the indicator to light up

It should be noted that the oil pressure light may come on intermittently in some situations without presenting any danger to engine operation. Such situations include:

If the car makes a sharp turn, as a result, not only the oil indicator, but also the fuel indicator may light up for a few seconds.
When starting the engine in winter.
After prolonged parking on uneven surfaces, when the lubricant flows into other engine compartments.

If the light comes on while driving or at idle, and does not go out after a while, then appropriate measures should be taken. The oil pressure indicator indicates the occurrence of failures and malfunctions. Such problems occur not only in the engine, but also in the electronic part. Some of the main reasons why this indicator lights up include:

Reduced oil level in the system. This is precisely the fact that, when it occurs, the indicator must necessarily work, warning of the danger of further operation of the VAZ-2107 car.
If the oil filter is worn excessively.
There is a malfunction of the sensor itself or a short circuit in the wiring.
Excessive wear of the crankshaft bearings.
Oil pump malfunction.

In certain cases, it is necessary to stop and determine the presence of oil in the engine using a dipstick. If the level is normal, then you should get to the nearest station or home, and then determine the reason for the light coming on. If there is no oil, then continuing to move under your own power is strictly prohibited, because this may cause the motor to jam.

If the pressure indicator lights up, you should make an emergency stop and turn off the engine. After this, a number of steps should be taken to determine the cause of such consequences.

Checking the lubricant level

After stopping, you need to open the hood and remove the dipstick. The measuring scale of the dipstick should be wiped, then reinsert it into the hole, and then remove it and make sure there is a sufficient level of lubricant. If the dipstick shows a minimum fluid level, then you should top it up, but then try to find out the reasons for the decrease in level. Often the reason for a drop in oil level is its leakage through the seals, which need to be changed periodically.

After the oil is added to the engine, the indicator will not light up, which indicates that the cause has been correctly eliminated. Low oil pressure in the engine can also be determined using a special dial-type indicator, which displays information for the driver about the state of oil pressure. However, on VAZ 2107 cars such indicators are not installed from the factory, although some motorists install them themselves.

Oil filter malfunction

If the lubricant level is in order, then the cause of such consequences may be a faulty filter. If you recently changed the oil and filter, and after some time the light comes on, then there is a high probability that you have received a defective filter. Under such circumstances, you will need to replace not only the filter, but also the lubricant in the system. Such cases, although rare, are all appropriate.

Checking the health of the sensor

The malfunction may consist of a breakdown of the sensor itself or a short circuit in the supply wiring. To check the health of the sensor, there are two ways:

Measure the pressure by screwing an adapter with a pressure gauge into the sensor seat.
Measure the resistance using a multimeter and a pump with a pressure gauge.

In the first case, the pressure in the system must be at least 0.35 kgf/cm2. The value on the pressure gauge is not lower than the specified one, indicating that the system is working properly and the sensor is faulty. In the second case, the test involves connecting the multimeter probes to the sensor terminals. In this case, the device should show zero resistance. Now you need to pump using the pump, as a result of which the multimeter readings should change and it will show infinity. In order to check the integrity of the wiring suitable for the sensor, you should test it using a multimeter. Replacing the sensor is not particularly difficult, so even a beginner can cope with this task.

Checking the quality of the lubricant

If all of the above methods have been tried, but the icon continues to light, then you should check the quality of the oil. To do this, you need to inspect the dipstick, with which you can easily determine the presence of signs of antifreeze or gasoline in the lubricant. To do this, you need to dip the dipstick in water and see if streaks appear on the surface, then the reason is that foreign liquid has entered the motor.

In such a situation, a complete flush of the engine, as well as major repairs, cannot be avoided. It is necessary to eliminate the cause of gasoline or antifreeze getting into the engine compartment.

From the above, it should be noted that in order to avoid unpleasant situations, when the oil pressure light comes on, you should immediately stop and find the cause.

Oil consumption standards after 2020

In February 2020, AvtoVAZ sent information letter No. 23-20 to the heads of the dealer network “On the appeal of consumers with the defect “increased oil consumption” of LADA car engines.” It states that when operating vehicles, consumers may complain of “blue smoke at the exit of the exhaust system, increased oil consumption.” During the warranty period, to assess the need for engine diagnostics, by analogy with the applicable f. Renault has established and included in the new Operating Manuals for LADA vehicles a control value for oil consumption, which is no more than 0.5 liters per 1000 km

vehicle mileage. There is also an addition to the actual oil consumption, depending on the influencing factors, recommendations to consumers on reducing oil consumption when operating vehicles.

At the same time, it is indicated that IP No. 62-12, No. 48-17 (discussed above) should be considered invalid.

Here's what was added to the car's owner's manual:

Actual oil consumption

. Oil consumption is provided for by the engine design and cannot be equal to zero, otherwise the engine will be destroyed. Oil is consumed primarily through piston rings and valve seals, the purpose of which is not absolute sealing, but rather metering oil penetration to provide lubrication. Also, a small amount of oil is consumed through the crankcase ventilation system. Operating oil consumption depends on many factors:

compliance by the consumer with operating conditions during the vehicle break-in period and, accordingly, the quality of running-in of engine friction surfaces;
viscosity-temperature properties of the oil used;
quality of the oil used;
frequency of oil changes;
ambient temperature;
the amount (level) of engine oil maintained by the owner;
driving style of the car owner (engine operating modes);
driving routes used by the owner.

Recommendations for reducing oil consumption

Strictly follow the recommendations for running in the car and engine (see the subsection “Operating a new car” in the “Driving a car” section) to ensure optimal running-in of the cylinder-piston parts, the surface quality of which significantly affects oil consumption.
Use high-quality fuel that ensures the safety of parts of the cylinder-piston group.
Use high-quality motor oils for reliable lubrication, cooling and removal of natural wear products from friction surfaces without the formation of unnecessary deposits of sludge, varnish and carbon deposits.
Follow recommendations to match the viscosity-temperature properties of the oil to environmental conditions to maintain optimal lubrication conditions.
Maintain the oil level between the MIN and MAX marks.
Observe the oil change intervals.
Carry out engine maintenance regularly.
Drive the vehicle at moderate engine speeds, with smooth acceleration, within the permitted speed limits. Because oil consumption is higher, the higher the load and engine speed.
If possible, minimize the frequency of using the engine braking mode (driving with the accelerator pedal released and with the gearbox in low gear, when the wheels rotate the engine through the transmission).
Choose rational routes that minimize the number of stops, starts, and accelerations.

What is the normal oil consumption in the engine?

The problem of engine oil consumption worries many car enthusiasts. As you know, lubricant consumption is one of the important indicators of the overall condition of the engine. You can hear from some car owners that the engine does not take oil, that is, the level remains the same or remains within acceptable limits from replacement to replacement.

Others note increased or high oil consumption in the engine, which makes it necessary to add lubricant. Let us immediately note that the ICE manufacturers themselves separately indicate the oil consumption rates in the engine. This means that the power unit can consume lubricant within certain limits, and such consumption is not a malfunction.

This phenomenon is usually called oil consumption due to waste. However, exceeding the norm for adding oil to the engine may well indicate problems with the internal combustion engine, non-compliance of the lubricant with the tolerances and recommendations of the engine manufacturer, etc.

In this article we will look at what kind of “oil appetite” of various power units can be considered acceptable, as well as what factors and features affect lubricant consumption in internal combustion engines.

Engine oil consumption in the engine is normal

So, let's start with the fact that all engines consume motor oil to a greater or lesser extent. This occurs taking into account the design features of the internal combustion engine, namely due to the urgent need to lubricate the components and parts of the CPG. In other words, the main loss of lubricant occurs as a result of the need to supply lubricant to the cylinder walls.

This area in the engine is a heat-loaded area. For this reason, partial evaporation and combustion of the lubricant occurs. Also, some of the oil is not removed from the cylinder walls by the piston rings, as a result of which the remaining lubricant burns along with the fuel in the combustion chamber.

As a rule, in modern engines the declared oil consumption is, on average, from 0.1 to 0.3% of the total fuel consumption that was spent to overcome any part of the journey. It turns out that if the car has traveled 100 km, and the consumption is 10 liters of fuel, then the norm will also be to consume, on average, 20 grams of oil.

It turns out that lubricant consumption can be considered acceptable if it does not exceed about 3 liters. per 10 thousand kilometers traveled. It is also important to understand that the consumption rate will greatly depend on the type of engine, the degree of its boost, etc.

For example, for many gasoline naturally-aspirated internal combustion engines, the norm is around 0.1%. On gasoline turbo engines, the consumption rate is noticeably higher. As for a diesel engine, the declared lubricant consumption rate will be greater than any gasoline equivalent and ranges, on average, from 0.8 to 3%. The indicated 3% is consumed by forced turbodiesels with two turbines, etc. You can also separately mention rotary motors, which are particularly prone to lubricant consumption. Such units (taking into account their fully operational condition) consume about 1-1.2 liters of oil per 1000 km. mileage For reference, the manuals for different engines indicate that the norm for oil consumption for waste is 1 liter per 3 thousand km traveled, that is, about 3 liters per 10 thousand km.

At the same time, manufacturers also note that consumption directly depends on both the technical condition of the internal combustion engine and the operating characteristics of a particular vehicle (load on the unit, speed, etc.)

What determines engine oil consumption and how to reduce it

As mentioned above, oil is consumed in any engine, since the oil film on parts to protect against dry friction burns in the chamber along with the fuel charge. If we add to this the natural wear and tear of the internal combustion engine during operation, then lubricant consumption further increases.

However, it becomes quite obvious that 3 liters of oil per 10 thousand km. for a small car with an in-line aspirated engine this can be considered a high consumption, while for a powerful unit with a large displacement this is a completely acceptable figure. Practice shows that even if the engine begins to “eat” more oil than normal, it is more economically profitable to simply add lubricant than to immediately overhaul the engine just because of increased consumption.

The fact is that at many service stations, technicians prefer not to diagnose a separate cause of increased oil consumption, but immediately offer the owner to make major repairs. It is important to consider that such expensive repairs are not always necessary.

In various situations, lubricant can flow along the external surface (leak out) and also penetrate into other systems. For example, if oil is leaking between the transmission and the engine, the crankshaft seal is at fault, and a puddle may form under the car.

If the cylinder head gasket turns out to be problematic, there may not be any leaks on the outside, the engine will be dry. In this case, the lubricant will enter the coolant, the coolant will become cloudy, the oil in the engine will also begin to foam, and an emulsion will appear under the oil filler cap and on the dipstick.

However, even in such a situation, you can try to fight the waste before agreeing to repairs. First of all, lubricant consumption depends on the operating mode of the motor. In other words, driving at high speeds leads to an increase in temperature and loads, the oil thins out, is less easily removed by rings from the cylinder walls, burns out, etc.

It is also important to understand that the lubricant may not be suitable for the engine according to certain parameters. This means that you need to know which oil to choose for the engine and what features need to be taken into account.

If the engine is worn out, then at the same time you need to take into account the features of selecting oil for engines with high mileage. In a nutshell, the reduced viscosity material forms a thin film that the oil scraper rings cannot remove from the walls. If the lubricant is thick, then the film is very thick, and the rings cannot remove such a layer in full.

Taking into account the above, it becomes clear that you need to use the most suitable oil both in terms of tolerances and high temperature viscosity index. For example, from the list of recommended lubricants in the manual, you need to select a product with a higher viscosity compared to what is currently filled.

You can also switch from synthetics to semi-synthetics, which in some cases also allows you to reduce lubricant consumption. The main thing is that such semi-synthetics are allowed for use in a specific internal combustion engine and comply with the recommendations of the engine manufacturer.

Oil seals (valve seals, oil seals) are also an element, problems with which increase the oil appetite of the unit. Moreover, on many internal combustion engines, the caps can be replaced without removing the cylinder head; the cost of the spare part is very low. In some cases, lubricant consumption after replacement is significantly reduced.

The main reason for failure of valve seals is their drying out and hardening, since the elements are made of rubber. Also, the seals can be affected by oil that is unsuitable for the engine, which has an aggressive effect on the rubber.

Symptoms of worn piston rings are often similar to their failure. If in the first case the rings need to be changed, that is, disassembly and repair of the internal combustion engine will be required, then in the second case the piston rings can be decarbonized.

Simply put, the accumulation of soot and coke does not allow the ring to move in the groove, that is, the rings are stuck. Reduced mobility means that the ring does not perform its function, the oil is poorly removed from the walls and burns out in the combustion chamber.

To solve the problem, there are flushes that are poured into the lubrication system. Flushing oils can also be used. A radical method is when a special composition is poured into the spark plug wells to decarbonize the piston rings.

Each of the solutions has both its pros and cons, however, for a worn engine, in many cases it is possible to reduce lubricant consumption and extend the life of the engine until overhaul.

An increase in crankcase pressure also causes excessive consumption of lubricant. In simple terms, high crankcase gas pressure causes oil to end up where it shouldn't be.

As a result, the lubricant enters the cylinders through the intake, after which it burns in the engine along with the fuel. In such a situation, it is necessary to diagnose and clean the crankcase ventilation system.

Problems with the turbocharger also lead to lubricant leaks in the supercharger area, oil also penetrates into the cylinders through the intake, etc. To solve, diagnostics and repair of the turbine are necessary. As a last resort, you can replace the turbocharger, and the lubricant consumption will also decrease.

What's the result?

Taking into account the above, we can conclude that the main reason for engine overhaul is the presence of significant defects and damage, as well as significant wear of parts and wear on the cylinder walls (scuffing, changes in geometry, etc.).

In this case, it will no longer be possible to eliminate the “guzzling” of oil only by decoking, replacing rings, valve stem seals, or switching to a more viscous lubricant. Typically, engines with such damage have low compression, start poorly both cold and hot, and significantly lose power.

During operation of the unit, knocking and extraneous noise may be present. As a rule, after disassembly and troubleshooting, the block needs to be bored/lined, the crankshaft grinded, etc. In other words, a major overhaul is needed.

If the engine is worn out, but operates normally, and the oil consumption is higher than normal, then you should not expect an immediate increase in lubricant consumption. The lubricant will be consumed more and more, but this problem will progress slowly.

It turns out that you add several liters of lubricant every 10 thousand km. will allow you to operate such a motor for more than tens of thousands of kilometers without major repairs (if no other breakdowns occur). At the same time, it is more cost-effective to add lubricant than to repair the engine.

Additionally, using a more viscous oil, replacing valve seals and cleaning the crankcase ventilation system will help reduce the overall consumption of lubricant and the cost of maintaining and servicing the internal combustion engine.

Source: https://KrutiMotor.ru/normy-rashoda-masla-v-dvigatele/

Owner reviews

Autoreview magazine during life tests of the Lada XRAY with a 1.8 liter engine in 2020 (it took 5 liters per 10,000 km);
magazine "Behind the Wheel" (over 2500 km, the oil level of the Lada Vesta with a 1.8 liter engine dropped from the middle to below the minimum level).

It is noteworthy that during the life tests of Vesta, no increased oil consumption was noted on the 1.6-liter engine.

Survey

among owners of Lada Granta, Lada Kalina, Lada Priora. Engine 1.6 l:

Survey

among owners of Lada Vesta and Lada XRAY. Engine 1.6 and 1.8 l (link to survey):

Your reviews on oil consumption on LADA car engines

leave it in the comments.

Source: xn--80aal0a.xn--80asehdb

The engine takes oil, but you don’t know what’s wrong? We will tell you why the engine consumes oil!

There are many reasons why an engine can “take” oil; sometimes it is very difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to find out why an engine “eats” oil at home. Today I will try to talk about the most likely reasons why a motor may increase engine oil consumption.

Let's dot all the i's right away. What does it mean the engine is burning oil or the engine is taking oil? Some literally understand this driver's expression, imagining an engine that is powered by engine oil.