Misfire in cylinder 4 of VAZ 2114

Engine characteristics

An 8-valve engine with index 2111 was developed for cars of this model. If you compare this unit with others, there are serious differences. This is electronic control and distributed fuel injection. The ECU fully takes into account all the basic data that is required for efficient operation. The motor is quite durable, powerful, and economical.

Power is 78 horses. Volume – 1.5 liters.

There are two valves for each of the four cylinders. They have a diameter of 81 mm. The design features of this unit make it possible to increase the power characteristics to 120 hp. With. There is also a modified unit with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 80 hp. With.

The owners are very pleased with these engines. They are completely justified. However, it happens that the engine stalls while driving, and other malfunctions are also observed. In most cases, all of this can be easily repaired.

VAZ 2114: no spark injector

A very good opportunity has arisen to show in practice how to look for a fault on VAZ fuel-injected cars. Here we have a clear, understated nine. Now I’ll show you something else interesting. Problem: won't start.

Primary diagnostics showed that there is no spark, and now we will look for the reason. In order to determine the reason, we need to look at the signals on the connector...*. Now let's turn on the ignition and take a look.

We must have a ground indicator on the connector....* On the connector we have plus 12 V and ground, and also two control signals. We can now see the control signals, or should, in any case, see them when the starter rotates.

We should hear a squeak. But there are no squeaks, because the control signals also do not arrive, so there is no spark. You can also check the signals on the injectors, but there are none either, so you can’t do without diagnostics and a computer (computer).

As I said earlier, when you turn on the ignition, look at the “Check” light. The light is on, which means the brains are turned on. We also listen to the fuel pump - the fuel pump turns on. And when the starter rotates, the fuel pump turns on again, this indicates that the crankshaft position sensor, if faulty, is at least receiving some impulses.

My homemade adapter is used. Let's connect to the brains...* The loader used is this one - CombiLoader, this version is like this. I downloaded the firmware for myself, I’ll read why this firmware is cool. Maybe people saw it that way according to the version, I don’t know. Usually, when I repair a car, I use standard water and there are no more problems. And then all sorts of Sports, Economy and others - you won’t understand later that it* works so poorly. I'll show you the results.

I deceived you, unfortunately, I won’t show you how the problem was solved. And the problem was quite interesting. It seems that, based on the first signs, the crankshaft sensor was alive, one might say “conditionally alive”, because when the crankshaft rotated, the fuel pump turned on again and I, as it were, temporarily got rid of this problem. But, as it turned out later, the car had recently been repaired, the head was removed, and inexperienced mechanics laid a wire leading to the crankshaft position sensor near the exhaust manifold.

The wire melted and one of the wires shorted to the braid. For those who don’t know, there is a shielded cable in which two wires are laid. Surprisingly, the brain recognized the pulse in this position and turned on the actuator, that is, the fuel pump relay was turned on, but, accordingly, the engine control unit* was unable to calculate the position of the top dead center, or calculate the position of the pulses. I noticed it purely by chance (I was already freezing, I had no time for filming), just moving the wire near the crankshaft position sensor.

I took it off, checked the sensor - the sensor seemed to start* correctly. Pulling the wire, rotating the starter, the engine began to seize. At this point it became clear that the problem was with the wiring, and after looking carefully at the wire, I saw that it was burnt out. I cut out the damaged area, connected it - and the car started up perfectly and drove away*. It was already dark, I wanted to go home, so there was no time for filming. Nevertheless, I am reporting on the results and a little bit (about) my technique, which I talked about a little earlier in the video, about how to find a spark - the sensor can turn on the pump and at the same time not give a spark - a very interesting case came across. I think you'll take note.

Consequences

If the VAZ-2114 engine has an injector (8 valves), then the internal combustion engine immediately loses power. After all, on three cylinders everything is different. Another typical symptom for the VAZ line is vibrations and trembling from the engine compartment. Another symptom of the “disease” is increased fuel consumption and a distinct, rich smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe and in the gases. And that's not it. It is important to respond to emerging signals in a timely manner, otherwise the car will require serious repairs.

When one cylinder is not functioning, the fuel mixture in it does not burn, but simply accumulates.

Then it is diluted with oil and sent to the crankcase. The more fuel gets there, the more liquid the oil will be. It will quickly lose its lubricating properties. As a result, increased wear of the cylinder-piston group, rings and other parts is observed. After some time, the engine will need a major overhaul (VAZ-2114 is the model in question).

NO SPARK IN THE VAZ 2114 CAR

Probably, many car enthusiasts have encountered a problem when there is no spark , so if the vehicle engine does not start, but the driver hears the functioning of the fuel pump in the tank, then you need to pay attention to the ignition system.

One of the most common problems with a car's ignition system is the lack of a spark on the wires leading to the spark plugs, as a result of which the fuel does not ignite. That is why the main topic of today’s article will be the following questions:

Why are there no sparks on the armored wires? What to do if there are no sparks on the high-voltage wiring of the VAZ 2114?

Naturally, in addition to these questions, we will consider several more and here are a few of them:

What is the ignition system of the VAZ 2114 car injector?
Diagnostics of the electronic part of the VAZ 2114 system;
The main breakdowns encountered by the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car;
The main signs of failure of the ignition module of the VAZ 2114 injector;
Diagnostics of the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector;
Algorithm for removing and installing the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector;
How to check whether sparks occur or not?
What to do if there is no spark on a VAZ 2114 car?

Causes

There are a lot of them. There are even nuances where even real professionals may not immediately identify the problem. However, here are statistics of the most common reasons.

Troubling may occur due to a non-functioning spark plug. This phenomenon is also observed when a high-voltage wire is broken, the ignition coil fails, or the ECU is faulty. Another possible reason is air leaks in the intake manifold, burnout of the exhaust valve. If the cylinder head gasket is broken, this problem also appears. This effect is also caused by broken compression rings and piston burnout. Naturally, these are not all the reasons why the VAZ-2114 engine has an injector (8 valves).

Basic faults

Due to the extensive accumulated experience in repairing this malfunction, we can identify common factors that are inherent to any units. Common reasons that can lead to misfires in the ignition system:

First of all, the problem may lie in the candles. Increased or decreased clearance, carbon deposits. Low quality candles.

Candle with soot

Wiring problem. Mechanical damage. Oily contact.
Damage to the module itself or the ignition coil.
Due to poor quality fuel, the injectors may become clogged.
Compression in the cylinder is broken.

Compression dropped

Incorrect adjustment of the gas distribution mechanism.
Air leakage into the fuel system due to various factors. Damage to the intake manifold, wear of the injector rings.
For various reasons, the gap between the cylinder and the piston has decreased.

These are the main factors that are most common.

On cars without a computer, checking and identifying the cause occurs by trying different options.

Once the cause is identified, we move on to repairs. For these works you will need the help of a specialist.

Experienced car enthusiasts have at least once in their lives experienced a situation where the car jerks and cannot budge. The practice is that these are the symptoms that indicate problems in the ignition system, and specifically misfires inside the cylinders.

Checking the spark plugs

It is important to find out whether spark is entering the cylinders. To do this you will need a spark plug wrench. Unscrew the spark plug from the idle cylinder and inspect its electrode. If you see carbon deposits or soot, then such an element should be replaced. You can clean the spark plug, but it won’t do it forever, it will only solve the problem temporarily.

Now let's check the spark plug for a spark. Connect a high-voltage wire to it and place its metal part against the motor body. At the same time, place it so that the electrode does not touch the body. Next, invite an assistant. His task is to rotate the starter, and yours is to monitor the spark plug. If sparks occur when the starter operates, then you may have problems with the wires. This is also due to a bad coil, ECU or crankshaft position sensor. There is probably a misalignment of the timing belt, which may cause the vehicle to shake while driving.

Basic information about the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car

The VAZ 2114 brand car is built on the basis of the VAZ 21093 platform and is its improved version. There is a new steering wheel, an updated instrument panel, an adjustable steering column, a new heater and power windows. Changes related to the abandonment of the carburetor in the design of the VAZ 2114 car with an injection engine began to occur much later compared to foreign manufacturers, but these changes turned out to be quite useful.

On cars with an injection engine, the fuel mixture is supplied using a computer through special nozzles. Most likely, every car owner has ever encountered a problem when there is no spark on the high voltage wires, but the driver can hear how the fuel pump functions, then pay attention to the ignition system of your vehicle. One of the most common problems with a car's ignition system is that there is simply no spark at high voltage wiring.

During operation of the machine, some malfunctions of electrical components may occur and this may affect the functioning of:

Instruments, and this does not make it possible to control the ignition system and other components;
power unit, thereby making it impossible to develop standard power;
Light fixtures and convenience mechanisms, which include lighting, heating and power windows.

The main breakdowns encountered by the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car:

Reduced vehicle power;
Failure during the development of vehicle engine power;
Idle speed instability;
Violation of the normal functioning of the cylinder.

You need to start looking for the cause of malfunctions in the ignition system with the formation of sparks on high voltage wiring.

How does the spark formation process occur in a VAZ 2114 car?

If you hear the fuel pump operating, but there are no sparks on the high-voltage wiring, then check the functioning of the ignition system. The system is checked for the presence of sparks on high voltage wiring, and for this a special device called a spark gap is used. The use of this device is considered more comfortable, because most engines with an injector use static ignition distribution with simultaneous transmission of high voltage to two spark plugs.

To carry out such a test, you need to connect the spark gap and crank the engine using the starter. If sparks appear only on one of the wires, then the reason is a breakdown at the wire ground or at the coil terminal. Sometimes the reason may be a broken wiring or winding that relates to the car's ignition system module.

If there are no sparks on several wires at the same time in any sequence, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the coil, module or vehicle controller.

Please note that damage may occur due to the fact that the high voltage wiring line is broken. In this case, it is necessary to check the high voltage wiring for integrity, and this can be done by taking measurements of the resistance level of the wiring itself. The standard resistance value on the wiring should be no more than 200 kilo-ohms. It is also worth paying your attention to the fact that there should not be a large difference between the resistance levels of the wiring.

Problems at idle

This is a particularly common situation. And it makes no difference at all whether the engine is cold or warm. In this case, there are very, very many reasons. It could be something as simple as a failure of one of the spark plugs to serious problems in the piston group. If the part is easy to change, then worn cylinders require serious repairs. VAZ-2114 is no exception.

Thus, unstable operation of power units at idle speed may be due to clamped valves, mismatched timing belt marks, or burnt-out valves in the engine. They can also be damaged due to water hammer. Various malfunctions in the electronics are also possible.

Basic information about the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car

An injector is a method of guiding a car's engine system. In addition, it is a method of supplying the fuel mixture.

During operation of the machine, some malfunctions of electrical components may occur and this may affect the functioning of:

Instruments, and this does not make it possible to control the ignition system and other components;
power unit, thereby making it impossible to develop standard power;
Light fixtures and convenience mechanisms, which include lighting, heating and power windows.

The main breakdowns encountered by the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car:

Reduced vehicle power;
Failure during the development of vehicle engine power;
Idle speed instability;
Violation of the normal functioning of the cylinder.

You need to start looking for the cause of malfunctions in the ignition system with the formation of sparks on high voltage wiring.

Sparking process

If you hear the fuel pump operating, but there are no sparks on the high-voltage wiring, then check the functioning of the ignition system. The system is checked for the presence of sparks on high voltage wiring, and for this a special device called a spark gap is used. The use of this device is considered more comfortable, because most injector-type engines use static ignition distribution with simultaneous transmission of high voltage to two spark plugs.

If there are no sparks on several wires at the same time in any sequence, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the coil, module or vehicle controller.

Ignition module on a VAZ 2114 car

If the discharge of sparks from high-voltage wiring has always been stable, this indicates that the cause of malfunctions in the injection engine lies in the spark plugs.

If there are no sparks, then the cause of the malfunction may lie in the primary circuit that runs from the generator to the ignition coil. Most often, the cause is a malfunction of the ignition module, and the easiest way to determine whether this is the cause or not is to establish a properly functioning device. That is, if sparks appeared after replacement, then the problem was in the ignition module, and the instructions for use do not provide for its repair.

Algorithm for removing and installing the VAZ 2114 injector ignition module:

Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery or using the ground disconnect button;
Remove the tip from all candles;
We bend the clamp, disconnecting the low voltage wiring block of the module;
Disconnect the high voltage wiring from the module connectors;
We unscrew the 2 bolts securing the crankcase to the engine using a 13mm wrench;
We loosen the 3rd bolt together with the head using a 17 wrench;
Remove the module together with the bracket;
Unscrew the bolts securing the module to the bracket. They are located under the hexagon;
Installation occurs in reverse order.

If sparks still do not begin to form, then it is very likely that the reason lies in the controller or the wiring connecting the module and the ignition coil. In this case, you need to check for the presence of sparks on all cylinders one by one, and if there is no spark on one coil, then replace it with the one next to it. If after replacing one coil with another a spark appears, then the reason is a broken coil, otherwise the controller or wiring is broken.

If it starts and then stalls

Many car enthusiasts have encountered this problem more than once. The search for possible causes and malfunctions begins. The ECU is tested, everything possible is checked, but the result is zero. The engine still sputters and stalls.

In this case, you can check the condition of the injectors. For many, after serious diagnostics, this problem was very easily, simply and inexpensively solved by cleaning the injectors and fuel rail.

If the reason is hard to find

This happens too. And this is a fairly common situation. Car diagnostics using computer systems can help. Such an operation will test all sensors, the electronic engine control unit, and as a result will provide information about where exactly the malfunctions occurred in the VAZ-2114 car.

If you encounter this breakdown, do not panic. Everything can be repaired, and this effect is not fatal. If you cannot determine the cause yourself, contact experienced specialists. But often everything can be discovered and eliminated with your own hands.

What causes misfires

The occurrence of misfires on a VAZ 2114 is a real problem that can become a prerequisite for more serious consequences. The car not only jerks, jumps and cannot work at full power. But it also starts with great difficulty; when driving, characteristic popping noises are heard, which occur due to detonation of the combustible mixture in the problem cylinder.

Checking the operation of the cylinders on a VAZ 2114 using computer diagnostics helps to detect many errors. If error P0301 lights up, then this indicates problems in the first one, if P0302 means misfires were detected in the second one.

Code 0302 - errors in the second cylinder

The VAZ 2114 electronic control unit continuously monitors the operation of the power unit through sensors. In this case, the rotation speed of the sensor on the crankshaft and the cylinders involved in a certain period of time is estimated. When a misfire occurs, the crankshaft rotation speed slows down slightly and this is determined by the computer. Modern electronics, if a miss is detected and the specified interval is exceeded, turns off the problematic cylinder. It simply will not receive fuel.

The cylinder can be turned on after a certain time, or after the engine is restarted. No more than 2 cylinders can be turned off at the same time. This is enough to get to the service station and keep the catalyst intact. On early versions of controllers, errors very often occurred when misfires were detected when driving on a bad road. However, now on the VAZ 2114 this problem has been completely solved after installing a road quality sensor.

VAZ 2114 car engine

The difficulty in identifying this malfunction lies in the fact that the misfire is not constant, but appears periodically. It often happens that in cold weather (until the engine is warmed up) it “troubles”, but after warming up, it starts working normally. This occurs due to wear of the cylinders, because after warming up, the metal parts expand and compression is restored.

Often, at idle speed, the VAZ 2114 power unit functions perfectly, but when the load increases, it throttles and functions with noticeable interruptions.

The problem is a burnt-out gasket, as a result of which, when the pressure in the combustion chamber increases, a leak appears.

The combustion chamber

It happens that the VAZ 2114 engine coughs a little, and then its operation returns to normal. In this case, nothing definite can be recommended, because a complete check of the power unit is required. There may be various reasons.

conclusions

It is important to very carefully monitor the condition of the car and its individual components. With good care and timely replacement of consumables and fluids, this machine will work no worse than a Swiss watch. Well, if suddenly the unit completely fails, you can always purchase and install a new one - the price of a 1.6-liter engine is about 20 thousand rubles.

So, we have found out the main reasons why one of the cylinders in a VAZ-2114 car may not work.

Consistently unstable operation of the vehicle's power plant, with evenly repeating interruptions, when approaching the exhaust pipe, audibly perceived as the operation of a “tractor” means that the engine is “troubling.”

There is no spark in the VAZ 2114 car

Probably, many car enthusiasts have encountered a problem when there is no spark on the high voltage wires, so if the vehicle engine does not start, but the driver hears the functioning of the fuel pump in the tank, then you need to pay attention to the ignition system. One of the most common problems with a car's ignition system is that there is simply no spark at high voltage wiring. That is why the main topic of today’s article will be the following questions:

Why are there no sparks on high voltage wiring? What to do if there are no sparks on the high-voltage wiring of the VAZ 2114?

VAZ 2114

Naturally, in addition to these questions, we will consider several more and here are a few of them:

What is the ignition system of the VAZ 2114 car injector?
Diagnostics of the electronic part of the VAZ 2114 system;
The main breakdowns encountered by the ignition system of a VAZ 2114 car;
The main signs of failure of the ignition module of the VAZ 2114 injector;
Diagnostics of the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector;
Algorithm for removing and installing the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector;
How to check whether sparks occur or not?
What to do if there is no spark on a VAZ 2114 car?

Reasons for unstable operation of the VAZ 2114 engine cylinder block

The most common diagnosis you can hear is that the cylinder has failed. In fact, this formulation is not entirely correct. The cylinder has stopped working, that's it. But there can be many reasons for this incident:

the spark plug is faulty or partially damaged;
low compression in cylinders;
the valves have not been adjusted for a long time or they do not fit well;
the injectors are overfilled or clogged and require replacement;
the high-voltage spark plug wire is broken;
the oxygen sensor has failed;
malfunction in the ignition coil;
the electronic control unit has failed;
The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) has failed;
The timing belt has fallen off completely or has moved several notches;
The air filter is not working well or is very dirty.

No spark on cylinders 1 and 4 of the VAZ 2114: troubleshooting

The situation when there is no spark on cylinders 1 and 4 of a VAZ 2114 is not such a rare phenomenon for cars with an injector. The reasons for this phenomenon can be very different, and to find them, you should study the entire electrical ignition circuit.

But first, as in general with ignition problems, you should inspect the spark plugs. Of course, a situation in which two spark plugs fail at the same time is quite unlikely, but it’s worth checking.

You should absolutely not check the spark plugs in the “classical” way - for breakdown to the body, as many do on carburetor cars - this way you can damage the electronic control unit.

In order to carry out the test, you should use a special spark gap. You can buy it at an auto store (often called a “spark plug tester”) or make it yourself. There are a large number of schemes for this device on the Internet, and the manufacturing process itself will take very little time. There are even spark gaps for testing all four spark plugs at the same time.

If the spark plugs turn out to be serviceable, you should proceed to further search for the problem.

Troubleshooting

The reasons why cylinders 1 and 4 of the VAZ 2114 do not work may be:

Candles.
Wires.
Ignition module.
Control block.

We talked about how to check the spark plugs above, so let's move on to the wires. To check, you will need a tester (multimeter), with which you should check all high-voltage wires (you should measure in ohmmeter mode).

The resistance of all four wires should be approximately the same and not exceed 200 kOhm. If the resistance is significantly higher than specified or the resistance of some wires is very different from the resistance of others, then they should be replaced with similar ones.

Checking high-voltage wires with a tester

If the wires are in good condition, we proceed to checking the module.

To check it, you should use a self-diagnostic scanner connected to a laptop or smartphone (the connection can be via Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or a USB cable).

The scanner displays the test results on the screen of the mobile device using standardized codes.

Auto diagnostic scanner

The most common of them (indicating that the ignition module is damaged) are the following:

P3000, P3001, P3002, P3003, P3004 - no spark in the cylinders (the last digit is equal to the cylinder number). In our case there should be signals P3001 and P3004;
P0351 - a rupture occurred inside the ignition module on the windings responsible for cylinders 1 and 4;
P0352 - the same thing, but the break occurred on the windings of cylinders 2 and 3.

If the above errors are detected as a result of the scan, then the module is burnt out and should be replaced with a new one (since it is not a repairable component).

Checking the control unit

If the VAZ 2114 does not have a spark in cylinders 1 and 4, and the spark plugs, armored wires and ignition module are working properly, then the last reason remains - a breakdown in the electronic control unit. This is easy to check - just connect to the unit using a light bulb with two wires. If the light blinks periodically, then the unit is working; if not, then the problem lies with it.

In this case, you should disconnect the unit, open its case and remove the board, then carefully inspect it. Very often the breakdown of this device is the burnout of the transistors (they look like the largest electronic components with three legs). If one of them looks burnt, it should be replaced.

For this you will need:

tester;
soldering station or hair dryer;
tweezers (preferably with ceramic tips);
low-melting solder.

First you need to check the transistor using a multimeter. If it shows no signal, then the element will need to be unsoldered, and in its place soldered a new one - similar or similar in its properties (transistors can be purchased in stores for radio amateurs or ordered from China, for example, from Ali. In the latter case, they will cost less than 15 rubles).

Transistors should be desoldered and soldered using a soldering station or a single hair dryer, since they are made in a chip design. If soldering is carried out with a soldering iron, then it should be done extremely carefully and using low-melting solders.

After the transistor is replaced, the electronic unit will need to be assembled and installed in place, and then try to start the car. If all 4 cylinders work properly, then the problem has been resolved; if not, then you should continue your search and check all other electronic components of the device with a tester. If additional parts are found to be faulty, they should also be re-soldered.

If such a check does not show results or the task of finding burnt elements turns out to be too difficult, you will need to replace the unit with a new one - similar or similar in characteristics.

True, if an immobilizer is installed on the car, then the burnt-out unit should be replaced exclusively with exactly the same one (installing even a close analogue will lead to the fact that the car simply will not start).

Published June 13, 2018

vazremont.com

What to do if the engine starts to stall

8-valve injection engine VAZ 2114

In order to determine why the engine in a VAZ 2114 is misfiring, you must follow the recommendations of professionals. First of all, you need to determine which cylinder is out of order, for this you need to:

open the hood with the engine running;
remember the sound and nature of the operation of the power plant;
remove the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs one by one, if the sound and rhythm of operation changes, then continue further, as soon as it is discovered that when the spark plug is de-energized, the nature of the sound does not change, which means the faulty cylinder has been identified.

Next, you need to unscrew the spark plug and determine its condition and performance.

It is unscrewed using a special spark plug wrench, which is recommended to be carried with you in an emergency kit. It takes up little space, but is a unique key that cannot be replaced and can come in handy at the most unexpected time. After all, even simply by replacing a heavily carbonated spark plug with a new one, you can temporarily solve the problem with starting the engine.

The next step is to determine the condition of the removed spark plug. If the electrode is intact and clean, and there is a large amount of soot on the head, then with a high degree of probability it can be determined that dust has entered the combustion chamber of the cylinder, therefore the fault must be looked for in the air supply system through the air filter.

If the entire head, along with the electrode, is covered in smoke, and it is severely burnt out, it means that a lean mixture was supplied and detonation combustion occurred with ignition advance. When the head is also completely covered with smoke and the electrode is in good condition, this means that a rich mixture was supplied and there was a delay in the ignition supply.

Assessing the condition of the spark plug gives direction in finding the true cause of cylinder failure. However, you should also check the performance of the candle itself. There is a proven method for this - “by spark”. If a spark breaks through, even if weak due to carbon deposits, then you must definitely look further. But if there is no spark at all, then you should replace the spark plug with a new one and check it. If there is a good spark, you can try to start the car and monitor the dynamics of changes.

Spark plug faults

If the car has a fairly high mileage, then trying to find the reason why the engine is shaking, you must do the following:

change the spark plug;
change the set of high-voltage wires; during prolonged operation under conditions of high temperatures and voltages, microcracks appear on the shell, leading to breakdowns and failure; experienced auto electricians recommend periodically changing this set for prevention;
measure the compression in the idle cylinder; if it is broken, then perhaps the rings are stuck or the valves are burnt out;
adjust the valves, this procedure should be carried out for prevention every 15 - 20 thousand kilometers;
determine the performance of the ignition coil, this is a fairly common failure, the best solution is to replace the old one with a new one;
change the air filter;
Check that the timing belt is installed correctly.

All the specified procedures have been completed, but the engine still “troubles”. We need to move on:

Conduct diagnostics of the electronic control unit and replace if necessary.
Check the fuel supply system, down to the injectors.
Determine the performance of the oxygen sensor, if it is faulty or produces deteriorated indicators - repair or replace.
The failure of the crankshaft position sensor is determined by the computer, and an error should be generated indicating a breakdown. If this happens, replace it.

One/two cylinders do not work: what to do?

Missing. All drivers know this problem, only in folk mechanical slang it is called a little differently.

“Engine trouble” is the name given to a malfunction when one cylinder in the engine does not work. There are times when two cylinders do not work at once. But this happens very rarely. Therefore, let us consider in detail the situation when one cylinder does not work.

Moreover, the causes of the malfunction, their search and elimination, equally apply to the situation when two cylinders do not work.

By what signs do you know that one cylinder of the engine is not working? It's simple. Based on body vibration, interruptions in the work cycle and a strange sound that differs from the smooth operation of the engine. You will understand. If the engine is running rough, you can’t help but notice it in the car’s behavior.

For a driver who is little familiar with the structure and operating principle of the cylinder head and the cylinder block itself, the question arises: is it possible to move (moreover, drive for a long time if one cylinder is not working).

In principle, yes, it is possible. But, this won't last long. The engine will fail or you will run into problems with the engine, the number of which will force you to fork out not a tidy sum, but a huge one.

Before analyzing the reasons why one or two cylinders may not work, let’s briefly consider the consequences of neglecting this malfunction.

What does driving with an inoperative engine cylinder lead to?

Fuel entering an idle cylinder does not burn. It is mixed with oil. It washes it off the cylinder mirror and enters the crankcase. Not only is the dry surface of the cylinder subject to mechanical damage, the so-called. scuffing, and oil diluted with gasoline does not fulfill its function of lubricating the remaining working cylinders.

This, accordingly, also leads to failure of the remaining cylinders. That is, boring the cylinder block, and maybe lining, is 100% guaranteed.

Another bad news if one cylinder does not work is the possibility of engine overheating with all the ensuing consequences. The engine begins to change temperature. It heats up, because the oil has lost its quality, and in addition to lubrication, it also serves as a heat sink.

There are probably enough consequences to make you wonder whether you can continue driving if one cylinder is not working.

Where to look for the cause of a non-working cylinder

The remark is that the check and search for the cause are carried out in a garage. There are two options: mechanical and electrical (ignition). You need to start taking the easy path, namely with ignition diagnostics.

Spark plug. We determine their performance the old fashioned way. Visually, the side electrode and insulator should be light brown, but not black with soot flakes. A sooty electrode indicates either that the mixture is too rich or that it is splashed with oil. Sparking. Having inserted the spark plug into the explosive wire, bring it at a distance of 1-2 cm to the cylinder block and crank it with the starter. If the spark “jumps” this distance, then the spark plug is ok, if not, then we change it.

High voltage wires. We check them for mechanical damage. We check their tips. If there is a light gray coating on the tip of the explosive wire, this indicates its operation in extreme mode. The resistance of explosive wires is checked with a multimeter. Different engines have different lengths of explosive wires and different resistances. Unless otherwise stated, 20 Kom is considered to be a constant resistance value. If the resistance is higher, you need to look for the cause in the explosive wire.

Distributor. If the spark plug is faulty, then we will see a “breakdown” in the ignition distributor cap. Be sure to check the “coal”, you can stretch the spring a little.

The explosive wires are simply mixed up. And it is precisely because of this that one or two cylinders do not work.

Next we move on to mechanics.

Injector. It is quite possible that one cylinder is not working due to problems with the injector. This is either a malfunction of the injector itself, or the injector is clogged with low-quality fuel, or rather, because there is a lot of fuel in it. By the way, be careful and picky when using the “super-miracle” fuel purifiers that are sold on every corner. Ideally, diagnostics and cleaning of injectors should be carried out on a bench.

Timing belt Fuel - the air mixture enters the cylinders in the wrong quantity and quality. There are a lot of reasons here. The belt is installed incorrectly, the tensioners are worn out, the seal is worn out. The camshaft is worn out, hydraulic compensators are worn out. A blown cylinder head gasket is usually due to engine overheating (look carefully at yourself when you want to ask why it overheated) during sporty driving, or a decrease in coolant level.

These are the traditional reasons why one cylinder of the engine does not work. And this is still an incomplete list. In any case, searching for the cause will lead you to the desired result, and you will eliminate this malfunction. On your own or with the help of a service.

Good luck identifying the cause and correcting the failed cylinder.

carnovato.ru

VAZ 2114 troits at idle

If the engine stalls when cold (at idle), there are three possible reasons:

problems with fuel supply;
problems in the ignition system;
valves are poorly adjusted.

In this situation it is necessary:

a) do a general flushing of the fuel system, and also clean the injectors using ultrasound;

b) change the spark plug, a set of high-voltage wires and diagnose the ignition coil;

c) adjust the valves and, if necessary, replace them.

What to do if the engine stalls when hot. In this regard, professional auto mechanics believe that the reasons are the same as in the first case. At idle speed when the engine is warm, one of the cylinders may stop working due to malfunctions in the fuel supply system or lack of spark. The procedure is the same as for failures on a cold engine.

Although in a professional environment it is believed that engine tripling is a fairly rare failure, nevertheless, discussion of this problem on automobile forums, including for the VAZ 2114, suggests that these problems exist due to a large list of possible reasons for such failures, this becomes a serious headache for the motorist who encounters it. However, if you approach solving this problem calmly and thoughtfully, without trying to haphazardly replace one thing or another, it is quite possible to solve this problem.

What consequences?

When the engine “troubles” and shakes, it begins to wear out quickly. Because of this, compression is reduced, creating conditions for the creation of scuffing on the cylinders and pistons. The motor begins to operate in a different temperature regime and begins to overheat. Sometimes it turns out that everything has been checked, but the engine still “troubles.”

Therefore, we will try to analyze the diagnostic procedure point by point under normal conditions, when there are no special devices to look inside and accurately determine the cause.

Are the spark plugs to blame?

First, unscrew the spark plug from the cylinder and carefully inspect it. What will we see? If the engine is running correctly, the color of the side electrode and insulator will be light and slightly brown. This candle should work. If we see black carbon deposits, this is the reason why the engine may run unevenly. Fuel enrichment or oil addition is in progress.

2-3 cylinders of VAZ 2114 16v 1.5 do not work. January 5.1. — AutoMastera.net

Edited by: 9891242206 at 18-11-2018 10:13 Hello everyone. I'll start from the very beginning. Car 2114 on January 5.1, tuning inlet, tuning exhaust on 51 pipes. The client has three tenants. It was done during the inspection, there was a weak spark on cylinders 2-3, I eliminated it, soldered the strands that were oxidized, and in general worked with the wiring. The spark appeared at 2-3, arranged an air leak, checked the injectors, sowed in the place with the ramp, all 4 injectors spray well, the torch is even. Compression in all is 4-12at, I check the marks, the belt is loose, I check the marks visually, the gears are in place, the carved bolts are tightened. I remove the manifold, blow smoke into the pots 2-3-4 loose fit of the exhaust valves, well, I think I found it, I remove the cylinder head, the picture did not emit for the owner, on the 3rd pot there is a clinic piston and apparently the rings are shorter than the Khan pot. The car was bought a month ago, they threw rings and sold it to the girl. Naturally, she didn’t know this and when buying the car, they didn’t detect the death of the engine. But that's not the point. We decide with the owner to do a thorough overhaul of the engine since the car will be left for long-term use. I put the engine on, start it and there’s no 2-3 cps, I throw up the ecu to no avail. I check the ratio of the marks on the dpkv indicator, looks at the end of the 20th tooth of the damper, throw another one at the beginning of the 20th tooth, it seems to be normal, I don’t start 2-3, I check with an oscill the forces, vv, module, dpkv, everything is ok. There is no program without DPRV. Dmrv is alive. The spark plugs are new. The only thing that casts doubt is the correct operation of the compensators, but they do not squeal. Diagnostics does not show errors. I'll attach the diagnostic log this afternoon. From a conversation with a client. After buying the car, the car drove great, then the expansion joints began to click more and more, and then it began to sag. When disassembling the engine, I discovered that a plug had been squeezed onto the crankshaft, which was plugging the oil channel, and when I washed the expansion joints, I noticed that on some expansion joints, when I poured oil into a small glass (or whatever it is called correctly) and then closed the valve on top with a ball and began to squeeze with my fingers, then it sat down and the oil seeped out almost not through the valve ball itself, but between the walls of the cup and the valve body with the ball. So I’m thinking that maybe it’s a matter of compensators? After repair, the pressure in the cylinder head is 2.5 at. The compensators are not squealing right now. Guys, can anyone say anything about this? Tomorrow I’ll take an ascylogram and I’ll also be able to attach it, yesterday I didn’t have time and today I’m at work. I came across something similar to this problem, but due to the valve not sticking tightly, it pounded when it was cold, but after warming up it evened out. And here I am, frankly, at a dead end. Yes, the fuel pressure is 3at. Maybe I forgot to write something, ask, I’ll add it.

Latest Visitors

Reply Thank you!0
Props Complaint

Answer Like Dislike Thank you!0
Props Complaint