Error 84 and 89 ABS is on - Chevrolet Aveo club
Number plate illumination error, problem solution
This is perhaps one of the most harmless codes.
Not long ago on my Chevrolet AVEO (T body), automatic. An unpleasant error came out, or rather...
Electronics play a huge role in a modern car. However, it may not close completely. The moral of this story is that, after reading on the forum, I almost removed the throttle and disassembled it!
It's electronic on the Cruze, and that's where problems arise. Remember that the electronics of any modern car require very careful handling.
Precisely a smart one with a good scanner, who understands your Chevrolet or Opel, because if you connect a cheap ELM type scanner, then it simply may not detect the error! SO, what problems there may be, I’ll start with, perhaps, the most harmless one: But for a couple of people, after replenishing the antifreeze, the errors went away.
I attribute this to the fact that the coolant pipes pass through the throttle; it can be seen that if air begins to appear there, this causes an error. I did the same, my level was really low, but it didn’t help me!
Error 84 and 89 ABS lights up
The position of the damper is different from the normal angle, the ECU sees this and is visible, so errors 84 and appear. Just clean the damper and everything can be restored! But again it didn’t help me! This can be said to be a flaw of GM. The thing is that the throttle valve, like on many modern cars, is electronic. If you remove it and this is quite an undertaking - remove the side cover of the control unit, you can see 4 tracks and 4 contacts that go along them.
However, for some it didn’t help and they have to order a new throttle. As I understand it, if not everyone is pressed onto the track, then the error will not go away.
But it’s really difficult to do this; it’s almost a piece of work. Therefore, my diagnostician told me that I can try, but this is really not a panacea, anyway, after a certain period of time, it will need to be changed. I want to say right away that the cost is considerable; the Chevrolet Aveo has an original throttle assembly that starts in rubles.
But I got carried away, it’s not the throttle! Almost the same situation as with the throttle.
The gas pedal also has the same block and 4 tracks with 4 contacts. As you probably understood, contact 4 breaks, only at the pedal. The Chevrolet Cruze also performs automatic diagnostics, capable of notifying the driver of various problems. Most often, owners of this model of car have to deal with errors 84 and They signal corresponding problems that need to be eliminated in order for the engine to operate in standard mode again. This error does not indicate a failure in the system, but warns the driver that it is time to undergo scheduled maintenance.
content .. 49 50 51 52 ..Chevrolet Aveo (2011+). The main reasons for engine tripping
— The ignition timing is incorrectly set. — There is an air leak in the vacuum brake booster system. — Faulty spark plugs. It is worth noting that this problem is the most common, since spark plugs need to be changed after driving a car every 20,000 kilometers (this figure depends on the recommendations given by the designers of each car). — Breakdown of the high-voltage wire that goes to the spark plug. — Faulty installed capacitor. — Violation of the tightness of the system in the area of the intake manifold. — Burnout of one of the piston or valve. — Breakage of piston rings, their deformation and wear also lead to this problem. — Incorrect adjustment of the gas distribution valves. — High degree of rocker wear. — Breakdown of the installed cylinder head gasket. — Any type of wear (hardening, breakdown, destruction) of the valve stem seals. — If the carburetor is adjusted incorrectly, the cylinders may also malfunction. — Condition of the installed distributor shaft and rotary plate bearing. — Air filter clogged. — Loss of tightness of the membrane of the vacuum ignition timing regulator. — Use of unsuitable spark plugs (not only the dimensions, but also other parameters of this element are taken into account) for this engine.
Engine troubles
Engine tripping is a definition that should be understood as a malfunction of the internal combustion engine when one or more cylinders do not work partially or completely. To put it another way, the combustion process of the fuel-air mixture in individual cylinders is disrupted, which causes unstable operation of the engine at idle, under load and in transient modes.
Engine trouble manifests itself in the form of increased vibrations of the power unit, and the engine noticeably loses power. Misfires may occur, which are accompanied by strong pops in the exhaust system. The engine can stall either occasionally or constantly, only at idle or under load, cold, hot, etc. Next, we intend to answer the question of what engine tripping is, and also consider the main reasons why the engine begins to trip.
Why does the engine start to stall?
Engine tripping is a violation of the combustion of the mixture in the cylinders, which is accompanied by a clear increase in vibration. Please note that the appearance of internal combustion engine vibrations is not necessarily a tripping, since there are a number of other reasons why the engine vibrates strongly.
Main malfunctions resulting in the engine tripping:
- supply of insufficient or excessive amount of fuel to the cylinder; - supply of insufficient or excess air; - malfunction of the ignition system, early or late ignition; - wear or breakdown of the motor, which is accompanied by a decrease in compression;
In other words, the engine begins to stall as a result of an inappropriate composition of the fuel-air mixture, untimely ignition of the mixture or inability to ignite the charge, as well as violation of the conditions for normal combustion of the mixture as a result of mechanical wear or breakdown of the engine itself. Based on this data, you can narrow your search and the number of systems for diagnosis. The check should begin with the fuel system and injector, then the intake air supply and the ignition system are checked. In some cases, engine stalling may also be the result of a failure of one of the ECM sensors.
Engine troubles: ignition of fuel-air mixture is disrupted
The most common reason that causes the engine to misfire is late or early ignition, as well as a weak spark plug. At the initial stage, you should unscrew the spark plugs for a detailed inspection. If damage to the insulator or other defects is noticeable, then the spark plug should be replaced.
In the case of a damaged insulator, the place of damage is clearly visible, since this area turns black. You should also pay attention to the condition of the central electrode and evaluate the gap of the side electrode. Next you need to check the spark plug wires. An indirect sign indicating this element is the occasional tripping of the engine in conditions of high humidity (rain, dampness, etc.). After the engine warms up and reaches operating temperature, the symptoms may disappear completely.
You should start by inspecting the spark plug cap and the highest voltage wire. These elements have rubber insulation, which tends to dry out and crack over time, as a result of which the wire begins to break through. Also, the high-voltage wire or cap is often damaged during service or repair work in the engine compartment. Let us add that the location of the breakdown may not be visually detectable. In this case, it is better to check this element of the ignition system using one of the available methods. If everything is in order with the spark plugs and wires, then the ignition coil may be the culprit for the engine misfiring. On engines with separate coils for each spark plug, this phenomenon is especially widespread. To check the ignition coil, you need to unscrew the spark plug, apply it to ground and start the engine. Please note that the thread of the candle must tightly touch the mass, the cap must be tightly placed on the candle. Ignoring these rules may result in burnout of the coil or commutator. A good spark with a characteristic crackling sound will indicate the serviceability of the coil; the absence of a spark will indicate the need to replace the coil.
As for the electronic ignition distributor (switch), this element does not break down often. To check, the spark plugs are securely attached to ground, then the caps are connected to them, after which one person turns the engine with the starter, and the other evaluates the strength of the spark on the spark plugs.
Motor tripping: air supply problems
Inadequate or excessive intake air can also cause cylinder misfire. The air supply system may lose its tightness and the engine begins to suck in excess air. The ECU does not take this leak into account, and as a result, the stability of operation is disrupted.
Checking the air system is quite simple. It is necessary to tightly close the inlet pipe next to the air filter, then pump air to create a pressure of about ½ atmosphere, and then look for the leak. If the pressure does not drop, then the system is sealed. The appearance of a hissing sound of escaping air allows you to determine the problem area through which the motor is sucking in excess.
Lack of air often occurs due to a dirty air filter that has lost its capacity. The filter must be removed and the engine performance assessed after removal. There may also be insufficient air if the throttle valve is clogged or there is a problem with this unit. This element requires mandatory cleaning and inspection. It is advisable to do this at every scheduled maintenance in parallel with replacing engine oil, filters, etc. Another reason for the engine tripping may be the TPS, mass air flow sensor or another sensor that sends an incorrect signal to the ECU. In such a situation, the control unit does not know to what degree the damper is actually open, how much air actually entered the engine, etc. Based on incorrect data, the “brains” cannot accurately calculate the optimal composition of the fuel-air mixture in relation to the dynamically changing operating modes of the internal combustion engine.
In this case, you should view the sensor readings and read the errors using a scanner that is connected to the vehicle’s diagnostic connector. Then the values must be compared with the nominal ones. Deviations from the norm in the readings of the air flow meter or throttle position sensor lead to the engine starting to stall.
Troubleshooting in cylinders: faulty power system
When checking the power system, you should pay attention to the following nuances:
-fuel pressure; -air leak;
Fuel pressure directly depends on the serviceability of the electric fuel pump, which on modern injection cars is located in the fuel tank. The device may have a clogged fuel pump filter, or problems may arise with the electric motor of the fuel pump or the power supply to the pump. It is also worth checking the pressure regulator valve in the fuel rail. Low pressure in the fuel supply system is often the cause of tripping.
The next step is to check the injection nozzles. This element tends to become clogged, resulting in reduced throughput, disruption of the spray pattern, etc. Also, failure of the injector itself should not be ruled out. To clean and check the injectors, you can use a washing stand, in which a special washing liquid is pumped through the device and power is supplied. Under such conditions, the operation of an injector on an engine is simulated, performance is assessed, etc.
You can also check and clean the injectors yourself. To do this, liquid (for example, carburetor cleaner) is also pumped through the device. Power is supplied through a simple circuit with a light bulb from the battery terminal. A working injector should not leak when closed. Also, the injector must open in a timely manner when an electrical impulse is applied. It is not allowed for the injector to pour fuel, since the efficiency of subsequent combustion of the charge in the cylinder depends on the quality of the spray.
If the fuel pressure and the injector itself are OK, then you should check the ECU. The control unit itself rarely fails, but it is possible. More often this happens in cases where the factory firmware was changed when installing an LPG or the engine was given software chip tuning. Unprofessional manipulations with fuel maps can lead to the ECU overfilling the fuel and flooding the spark plugs.
Reduced compression in cylinders
A drop in compression indicates engine failure or wear. One or more cylinders are partially or completely inoperative, so fuel and air are delivered, but the mixture is not compressed properly. In this case, normal combustion does not occur. A drop in compression occurs due to burnout of pistons or valves, severe wear of piston rings and other defects in the cylinder head, cylinder head or timing elements.
In this case, it is necessary to measure the compression in the engine, after which the unit is disassembled for detailed diagnostics and repairs. In conclusion, I would like to add that operating an engine with a malfunctioning cylinder is prohibited, since driving with such a malfunction leads to a number of additional problems, which significantly complicates and makes subsequent repairs more expensive.
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Chevrolet Cruze: error code 89
Once you find out the reason, do not forget to remove them. They have the unpleasant property of accumulating in memory. Causes What do error codes 84 and 89 mean on Chevrolet Cruze? The answer to this question is simple. These numbers mean the following: Code 84 - engine power reduced; Code 89 - scheduled maintenance has reached its due date. Often, simultaneously with error 84, visible problems with the motor begin; there may be several reasons for this code.
Below we'll take a closer look at why they appear. Be sure to conduct a detailed diagnosis. It often reveals additional errors that can be used to determine the malfunction more accurately. This is perhaps one of the most harmless codes.
This error occurs when it is necessary to undergo scheduled maintenance. This happens when a certain mileage is reached.
Often this error can occur when the speedometer sensor malfunctions. In this case, be sure to check its condition.
If everything is fine with it, visit the service. You can also replace parts that are time to replace yourself. A more detailed list of required work can be found in the official regulations published by the manufacturer. Code 84 This error is a little more complicated. It indicates a problem with the engine and its transition to emergency mode. Essentially, it means that the motor is running only to get to the service on its own.
It is not recommended to drive for a long time with the warning light on. This can lead to serious damage.
There may be several reasons for this code: The problem is related to the pipes passing through the throttle. When they overheat, an error may appear.
A few more words about error codes
Many owners are looking for an answer to the question of what code 24 means. This signal on the instrument panel indicates problems with the license plate lighting of the car. For such a malfunction you can be punished by a fine, so the malfunction must be eliminated. Let's look at this in more detail.
Since the license plate lights are connected to the vehicle's electrical system, you need to check the fuse in this circuit. A separate device is not installed for this circuit; usually it is a side light fuse. It is set to a current of 10 Amps
, so check this device first. However, I would like to immediately warn you that its failure does not always happen.
Error 84, 89, ABS or ESP may be on. Appears on Chevrolet Aveo, Cruze, Opel Astra J cars
Not long ago on my 2012 Chevrolet AVEO (T300 body), automatic . An unpleasant error appeared, or rather there were two of them: 84 and 89, and the ABS icon was also hysterically burning. I press on the gas, but the car doesn’t really move, it barely develops speed, the engine doesn’t want to spin at all above 2000 rpm. A LITTLE SHOCK! I immediately thought that if the ABS came on, it meant that it was the problem, I went to the forums, but the brake system had absolutely nothing to do with it! Errors appear on three cars - a Chevrolet Aveo, a Cruze, and an Opel Astra J - one concern "GM" - the engines are almost the same, and therefore the problems. I’ll say right away that I solved the problem, but I had to drive around and look for an intelligent diagnostician...
THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE
What made the situation more complicated was the fact that GM has now left Russia due to sanctions, so there are no officials left in our city (although there used to be two large ones). What to do? They write terrible things on the forums that this is mainly a problem with the throttle valve. And this is already creeping into big money! Guys, for a general understanding, I will use several photos that are not my own, but from open sources!
But first, about the mistakes.
Modifications of Chevrolet Aveo T300
Before restyling from 2011 to 2020, the car was produced in a sedan and a five-door hatchback:
1.6 l F16D4 115 hp 155 Nm and 5-speed D16 |
1.6 l F16D4 115 hp 155 Nm and 6-automatic transmission 6T30 |
Find a complete list of power units of this model in the article: Aveo T300 engines
When updating the car in 2020, the range of bodies did not change, but it was not sold here.
Find an online manual for car maintenance and repair on the website Chevyman.ru
FORUM
You will find all the necessary information on the car on the Chevrolet-Aveo.ru forum
ARTICLE
A detailed test drive of this sedan model was conducted by the famous portal Drive
Errors code 84 and 89
ON Chevrolet AVEO and CRUZ, it appears precisely - code 84 and 89 + ABS .
But on the Opel Astra J code 84 appears + it says that the engine power is reduced + ESP .
Now a little decoding
84 – Engine power reduced.
89 – You need to undergo regular maintenance (vehicle maintenance)
The Astra may be slightly different, but the essence is the same; why the ABS and ESP sensors also light up is not very clear. Apparently the car shows with all its appearance that it is time for it to go to the service station. Reduced power means that the “emergency mode” is turned on, supposedly just to get to the service station and get repaired, so you shouldn’t expect the car to be “quick.”
The car can either stall or start every once in a while, the speed fluctuates, or it won’t work for me.
Chevrolet Aveo chassis - what to change and when?
The Aveo chassis consists of many elements, the stable operation of which provides the car with excellent stability and controllability. Let's consider the average service life of the Chevrolet Aveo chassis elements.
Average service life of Aveo shock absorbers:
- Front shock absorber struts last from 60 to 90 thousand km.
- Front wheel bearings operate for at least 70 thousand km.
- Aveo rear shock absorbers can travel from 70 to 100 thousand km.
Most Aveo owners replace the car's original shock absorbers produced by General Motors with cheaper, but no less high-quality analogues from Monroe or Kayaba.
Silent blocks service life:
- Front arm silent blocks almost never need to be replaced.
- A squeak may appear in the rear lever parts after 60 thousand km.
- In most cases, rear silent blocks have to be changed after 100-140 thousand km.
A sign of a malfunction of the silent blocks of the rear beam of the Chevrolet Aveo can be the appearance of knocks and creaks in the rear suspension area, as well as deterioration in handling and loss of vehicle stability.
Service life of brake pads and discs:
- The front pads need to be changed every 30-50 thousand km.
- The rear pads function without problems for 70-80 thousand km.
- Discs are replaced after 60-100 thousand km.
Unlike silent blocks, brake pads located at the front of the car fail faster and are replaced more often than those located at the rear.
What is the reason for the errors?
There are a lot of reasons, but it’s worth noting that they are not always critical, so you shouldn’t buy spare parts right away!
Guys, I want to warn you - before sounding the alarm, you must first look for an intelligent diagnostician and only then draw conclusions! After all, my problem was not at all with the throttle. But this became clear later.
Precisely a smart one with a good scanner, who understands your Chevrolet or Opel, because if you connect a cheap scanner like ELM 327, then it simply may not detect the error!
SO, what problems there may be, I’ll start with, perhaps, the most harmless one:
- Not enough coolant . Trite - YES? But for a couple of people, after replenishing the antifreeze, the errors went away. I attribute this to the fact that the coolant pipes pass through the throttle; it can be seen that if air begins to appear there, this causes an error. I did the same, my level was really low, but it didn’t help me!
- Throttle valve dirty . Due to high mileage or “crappy” fuel, after a certain mileage the throttle actually becomes clogged. The position of the damper differs from the normal one (different angle), the ECU sees this and is visible, which is why errors 84 and 89 occur. Just clean the damper and everything can be restored! But again it didn’t help me!
Cheap solution, my problem
I didn’t specifically combine them with the first four; I want to dwell on my problem in more detail. One more warning - before you get into your brains and electronics, let’s remove the battery terminals!
In general, my diagnostician was “from God,” as they say in Chevrolet and Opel, “he ate the dog,” he even worked for the officials for a year, but then he was laid off (GM left Russia). He has a professional scanner, costing 160,000 “our wooden ones”, and he updates the firmware on it every year (about another $300 - $400) - the balalaika is not cheap. Here is a photo.
But as he says, all the latest changes and information on new car models appear immediately (not only GM, all cars from our TAZOVs to Infinity). Not one ELM 327 (from China) has such information, and certainly not! Who will “cover” the annual firmware? That's why many Chinese scanners have errors - CAN'T READ!
Diagnostics - he connected his “miracle device” and it showed that it was not a choke! Wow, a stone just fell from my soul, it revealed that it was a pedal! To hell with it, I’ll buy a new one for only 3,000 rubles, and replace it myself in a couple of minutes, unscrew one bolt, remove it and connect the cable.
However, the diagnostician told me - let's try to restore this one, if the error goes away then the pedal will be 100%, and then you will decide whether to buy a new one or drive on this one for a while. Okay, I agreed. But first he says - I’ll measure all the circuits - with a multimeter, I didn’t delve further, but it turned out that the pedal does not give any breaks! Unclear! It turns out she's whole?!
He tells me this - he recently came to see me in an Astra, code 84 + ESP was also on, in the end the contact on the ECU oxidized, they cleaned it, and everything worked like clockwork. Let's take a look at you. The 6 Volt load comes from there.
As a result, they oxidized to “green oxide”, in my opinion, from 42 to 46 contacts. When they took it all apart, it was a pity that there were no photos left. They cleaned it, put it back in place, and lo and behold, code 84 - 89 disappeared, the ABS went out, the car began to breathe deeply! Damn, there’s cold and heat and condensation under the hood in the fall. Looks like they got eaten up.
In the end, I didn't have to buy anything! The cost of repairs + diagnostics is 1500 rubles - SATISFIED AS AN ELEPHANT!
The master noticed that the voltage at the ECU contacts is only about 3 - 5 Volts (there are a lot of them), therefore - YOU SHOULD NOT APPLY ANY LIQUIDS TO IMPROVE CONTACTS, such as terminal protection, etc. This way you can sag the voltage and simply burn out the ECU! You just need cleaning, it is advisable not to damage the protective coating of the contact (wipe with alcohol - carefully), then blow everything off with compressed air.
The moral of this story is that, after reading on the forum, I almost removed the throttle and disassembled it! Although it wasn’t worth doing this (specifically on my AVEO)!
GUYS FIRST, LET'S GO TO A DIAGNOSIS - A INTELLIGENT DIAGNOSIS ! And then we’ll self-medicate (otherwise you might end up doing a lot of things). And yes, again, from the first steps, after adding antifreeze (if the level is gone), look at the contacts on the ECU, clean them - perhaps the problem will be solved. We rode with the master for about 5 - 10 kilometers, no mistakes!
This is the story, I hope it helped! I tried to put it on the shelves as much as possible, there is information on the Internet on forums, but it varies everywhere, there is no common denominator - maybe this, or maybe that! Check all the devices that I described to you - the error will go away in 95% of cases.
PS People for those who are looking for a diagnostician in Ulyanovsk - I’m writing my own, his name is Alexey, mobile - 8 (909) 3602112. Really, smart guy!
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26 votes, average: 4.81 out of 5)
Review of Chevrolet Aveo 1.6i (2012)
Hello, dear forum users!
Thank you for leaving reviews, which more than once opened my eyes to different cars that I seemed to like outwardly...
I bought my Aveo almost by accident. Before him I drove a VAZ 2113 2005. The mileage at the time of sale was one hundred thousand km and only the starter was replaced and the wheel bearings were replaced a couple of times. I bought it new from the dealership. I started it and drove off. Well, it didn’t break and that’s it... They don’t look for good from good. You already know all the pros and cons. The only thing I was missing was a condo. It started to rust badly... If it weren't for this, maybe I would have continued riding... I sold it in half an hour according to the ad. The first ones who arrived were the ones who took it.
A couple of days before the sale, I wandered around the nearest car dealerships. The only condition is that it’s new and doesn’t cost half a mile. Since the vaz didn’t give me any trouble, I didn’t experience any prejudices. I even wanted to take a grant in a suite. But I decided to “see everyone”... Granta cost 380tr. You could get a Lacetti for a hundred more. I wanted a carriage, but there were only two - black and white. “There will be no others!” - said the manager. All. Now instead of lacha there will be Cobalt. They suggested looking at the pictures in the magazine))). And why do you need cobalt, he says, look at Aveo... Let's go have a look, fortunately they are in stock.
The first thing that was cut seemed to be standing without glass on the headlights... It turns out that’s how it was intended. The second is the digital panel. A little unexpected, but quite convenient and very informative. Platform from a new Corsa, engine and gearbox from an Astra, South Korean assembly... We went for a test drive and an hour later the decision was made. Since I bought a car from 2012, and it’s spring 2013, they gave me a discount of thirty. LT with R16 casting and two more additional packages. Steering wheel for tilt and reach and something else, I don’t remember. For everything, 485 rubles to the cash desk... That is, a hundred more than the grant. I somehow even forgot that I could also watch Solaris and Rio... So it somehow happened spontaneously. But I'm happy.
The car makes me happy. The noise of the arches could be better. The engine pulls quite briskly and already at 50 km/h it asks to put in fifth gear. There, “shift” lights up on the electronic display, i.e. tells you in which gear the maximum fuel economy will be achieved. You can’t hear the engine up to a hundred, but then, approaching 4000 rpm, it starts to rev with a sporty roar, provoking you to give in to the gas... It spins up to 6000 rpm quite willingly. The chassis is quite elastic. Everything inside the cabin is very neat, nothing creaks or annoys. The brakes are hellish! The first couple of days I received regular beeps in my back, because the car was jumping up and down not even when braking, but it seemed to me so, just because I moved my foot from the gas to the brake... There is no need to press on it, just lightly stroke it... But now I began to constantly monitor who was hanging on my tail. I'm really afraid of Lada cars. No offense guys, I drove it myself, well, the Lada won’t slow down like that... It’s only now that I understand that all this time I was driving a V8 with almost no brakes))) Although when I drove it, it didn’t seem so to me...
Condeya and abs are nothing but pleasure. By the way, it's a very decent radio. It connects to the phone via Bluetooth and all settings are also via the media system. The steering wheel is grippy and very informative. The only things that don’t please me about the car are the hinges in the rather voluminous trunk and the round lights at the rear. For me, they look somehow tacky... I haven’t found any downsides yet. I don’t know how things will go from there, but I want to immediately put a big and fat one on the officials... If 15 thousand passes without complaints, I’ll definitely put it in, because you yourself know how “super” they are at super prices... But, with all this, I consider myself an idiot . After all, only an idiot could spend another 35 thousand and get a fully equipped Aveo with a six-speed German automatic transmission, sunroof, climate control and R17 casting! How the manager persuaded me... Why did I step... I stung or rushed, because the manager was pushing too hard... In vain, in vain I did not listen to him! Somehow they killed our faith in good deeds... It’s just that I regret it now. Otherwise, I'm as happy as an elephant after a swim))).
So far I’ve only driven 6 and a half thousand, I’ll continue to add to the review as I progress.
If you have any questions, I will answer. I just apologize in advance for the feedback... Dacha, construction site, not much time..)))