We buy power steering fluid. I firmly believe that the power steering has not changed in any way since the 2nd Focus; moreover, I personally know several cars that drive quite comfortably with power steering pumps from the second Focus, so I bought this fluid, since the standard one has a higher viscosity and is more difficult for the pump to pump it: Remove and thoroughly wash the tank from sediment and slag.
We install the supply hose in place, and connect the return hose with a prepared long hose, the second end of which is lowered into a container for old oil. We unscrew the candles. We ask an assistant to crank the crankshaft with the starter for seconds. The liquid will be drained into the container, and we make sure that air does not get into the Ford Focus 3 power steering by adding liquid to the reservoir. We rotate the steering wheel several times to the limit to the right and left, and turn the crankshaft for a few more seconds.
The liquid will flow back into the container. We install the tank in place, put the return hose on the tank. We start the engine, at this time the fluid will leave, it must be added, Ford Focus 3 power steering, do not let air into the pump. At this time, the steering wheel should be in extreme positions for several seconds. I had an old pump lying in the garage and I pressed the pulley out of it.
Power steering. Power steering, electric power steering
I removed the sensor from what was standing. Apparently the pump is very new, but the holes for the sensor and power steering tubes were not plugged. Well, now we need high pressure tubes. I went to Moscow to a familiar disassembly of ff3 and bought it for 2t rubles. The next day I went to the garage and disassembled the Ford Focus 3 power steering pump. Everything looks fresh and the valve is free of scuffs. Well, I started installing everything.
I saw posts that the tubes fit like original ones. But I immediately noticed that the return line from ff3 is shorter. Changing the original color of the liquid.
Presence of a burning smell in the expansion tank. Experienced car enthusiasts recommend changing the oil every year or at least every thousand kilometers. Which oil is better to choose? Original product for Focus power steering Before changing the lubricant in the power steering, you need to determine what brand of fluid should be filled.
The original power steering oil belongs to the category of synthetic Ford Focus 3 power steering substances. The manufacturer recommends casting original products, since they make it possible to ensure reliable and stable operation of the system. Options for pouring into Ford power steering: The product is red, its article number The average cost of one liter of lubricant is rubles.
This is a green original liquid with the article number, which is a cheaper option, its cost is approximately rubles per liter of lubricant. Checking the level and topping up Read more about how to check the amount of lubricant in the power steering system. ford focus 3 power steering
Diagnostics of the consumable level is carried out on a flat surface. The oil reservoir has two marks: If the machine’s power unit is turned off, then the volume of working fluid will most likely be maximum. If the lubricant level is closer to the minimum, then lubricant must be added to the system.
How much to pour depends on the volume that is missing. How to detect a leak? ford focus 3 power steering
What kind of fluid should be poured into the power steering of Ford Focus 3?
To independently identify the location of the leak, do the following: Stop the engine and wait until it cools down. Wipe all components of the steering system with a rag, especially the pipes and connections. Check the amount of lubricant in the expansion tank. If necessary, add liquid. Start the power unit and turn the steering wheel left and right as far as possible. There is foam in the expansion tank for Ford Focus 3 power steering, which means the seal has broken and air has entered.
Here you need to first bleed the system.
Signs that a Ford power steering fluid needs to be replaced
The hydraulic fluid in Ford Fusion cars is a process oil that transmits resistance from the pump to the vehicle’s hydraulic cylinder. The circulation of the substance occurs through the connecting nodes of the power steering system, as well as hoses. The required amount of mixture is indicated by special marks MIN and MAX. Lack of oil requires timely filling.
The power steering system itself is the main part of the steering. So the driver simply needs to twist the wheels and set the vehicle to the required trajectory. If the power steering fails, driving the car will be much more difficult.
If the steering wheel stops turning while driving the vehicle, the fluid needs to be replaced urgently.
Signs of replacing the power steering mixture:
- When driving, the steering wheel is held tightly, and the driver feels shocks;
- When turning the steering wheel, significant effort must be made;
- Wheels turn too easily;
- Constant unscrewing of the pulley;
- The steering wheel is noisy and vibrates;
- The steering wheel turns independently;
- The driver has difficulty parking.
The solution to these problems in most cases is to timely change the oil in the power steering.
Replacement Guide
To replace, you must purchase consumables in advance; they must be green. In order for the volume of the substance to be correct, you will need about two liters of oil. In general, the procedure for replacing Focuses is not complicated, but the process will be greatly facilitated if someone helps you. The expansion tank is connected to two lines - one pipe goes to the pump, and the second to the tank, this is called the “return”.
To replace consumables, do the following:
- Prepare a hose equipped with a fitting at the end. Its length must be at least a meter, and the diameter of the hose must match the return hose. A similar hose may be needed, but its length may be shorter, and there should be a plug at the end of the pipe.
- Take a container into which you will drain the used oil (preferably with wide edges). Remove the expansion tank by first unscrewing the fixing bolts.
- Using pliers with elongated and curved ends, it is necessary to move the clamp from the return pipe, which is fixed on the container, to the side.
- Remove the return line and install the fitting of the prepared pipe. Instead of this line, it is necessary to install a pipe with a plug.
- Remove the cap from the expansion tank and fill it with new consumables.
During flooding, you need to start the engine; you will need an assistant for this. When draining used oil, you need to monitor the color; when you see that new fluid is coming out of the system, you can turn off the engine. If air gets into the system during the process, you will have to expel it, otherwise the air lock will prevent the unit from working normally. After replacing the fluid, the steps for assembling the system elements are performed in the reverse order.
Source: avtozam.com
I somehow paid attention to the power steering reservoir, opened it, and it looked like black liquid, it smelled unpleasant, the level was fine, well, apparently it was normal, I thought and closed the reservoir. At home, I decided to read about it and it turned out that the Tama liquid was either red or green. It is recommended to change it every 20,000 mileage. I called the officials, I tell them how much that fluid costs and the cost of replacing it, they ask what color your fluid is red or green, I say black, no they say either red or green, but what is the difference? Red, speaking, 1,700 rubles per liter, green, 700 rubles, you need to pour what was there. The work costs 800 rubles, I think. I began to find out the color of this slurry, but I couldn’t find out with a napkin or anything else. I read the manual for the car, it says the specification WSS-M2C204-A2 is green, I went to the service center where they told me that all Russian-assembled Fords have red fluids, my St. Petersburg assembly therefore has red fluid specification WSA-M2C195-A. The green light is beating on the Ford cat, and in the end, confused, I began to read who was pouring what. It turned out that they pour everything in there, but in most cases WSS-M2C204-A2. I also found out that WSS-M2C204-A2 is a hydraulic fluid, while WSA-M2C195-A is a working fluid that is poured into other places, such as automatic transmissions. Well, I think it’s definitely green, I looked at the original 1384110 or 1781003, where they are produced is not clear because of the fear of running into a fake, I decided to look at analogues.
While I was figuring out what to put in there, I learned how to replace the fluid myself and not pay money for it. It was decided to change it myself, for this the following things were purchased.
We open the hood, pump out the old fluid with a syringe, the catheter allows you to pump it out completely, the entire tank. We apply it with rags, I took a waffle towel, the timing belt and everything below the power steering reservoir so as not to stain everything with power steering fluid.
Then you need to release the self-clamping clamp and lower it down the hose, and this is where the difficulties begin. I naively believed that I could easily squeeze a clamp of this design with pliers and I was right, with a little dexterity I removed it, but there was no way to put it on, the release ears when the clamp is on are closer to each other and grabbing them with pliers is not a problem, but when it is removed then the ears move apart and I couldn’t squeeze them anymore, since there is not enough space there and the pliers simply rest with the handles on the tubes, and if I had bought long pliers with curved ends, then the whole procedure would have been easy and not forced))) If you repeat my feat, be sure to take long-nose pliers with you)) Since I found an oily film on the walls of the tank and after pumping out the liquid from the side, the tank looked full, I decided to wash it. I took it off and washed it with carburetor cleaning fluid, fortunately I had it from last year’s throttle valve wash. While the tank was drying, I took a 6mm tube and cut off a piece from it; it will be needed to plug the return line, I wrapped an M6 bolt with electrical tape and screwed it into the short hose that had just been cut off.
I put the second end on the tank photo and touched it somewhere, the tank has two outlets, the big one looks down and the smaller one looks to the side, the smaller one is the return line and I turned it off on the tank.
And he clamped it with his own clamp. Then I poured a full tank of new green fluid and went to turn the steering wheel, in no case do we start the car during the entire procedure, I did not hang the wheels, I turned the steering wheel just like that, 2 turns all the way and we go to add fluid, in 2 full turns half the fluid tank is gone, The main thing is that you don’t suck in air, otherwise I don’t know what will happen, you’ll probably need to bleed the system and adjust the steering wheel 20 times until all the air comes out. I added it 3-4 times, then a clear, transparent green liquid came out.
To put all the pipes and clamps in place, I again pumped out the liquid with a syringe previously washed with the same carburetor cleaner, put everything in place and filled the tank to the max mark, started the car, the liquid became less, topped it up, turned the steering wheel, everything was fine. It took me 950 ml, if I had noticed that new fluid had started earlier, I think it would have cost 900. In any case, there was a little left for topping up, although over the past 45,000 km, of which my 20,000, I have never topped it up.
After the replacement, nothing has changed, the steering wheel turns just as well, maybe a little softer, if before, when turning the steering wheel all the way to the left or to the right, something buzzed a little, but now something seems to jingle a little, whether it’s good or bad, I don’t know. A new one got into the jar with the old liquid, I swirled them around and left them, after 20 minutes the liquids separated, the green one rose to the top. Either something else was poured in there or the old liquid for 45,000 thousand thickened and its density changed.
After replacing the fluid, a week later the fluid turned black. I drove with it for a year and changed it to the original one. After a week it became a little darker from the original color, but not black, I think the system was just washed. For the second time I have already purchased such a tool
Incredibly convenient tool, everything is fast and very simple)
Source: www.drive2.ru
Selecting steering fluid
Power steering fluid contains mineral and synthetic substances. The former are most often used for passenger cars such as the Ford Fusion. Synthetic ones, in turn, are used for special equipment.
Mineral oil performs the main functions of power steering, protecting the mechanism from corrosion and excessive friction.
Manufacturers of the hydraulic mixture produce oil in three colors, depending on the type of vehicle, as well as the specifics of the power steering system. It is not recommended to mix different liquids with each other, as the composition of the mixture may be incompatible, resulting in mechanical failure.
Oil colors:
- Red power steering fluid is intended for cars with an automatic transmission. This mixture can only be mixed with yellow;
- The yellow color of the oil is neutral and is most often purchased by drivers of all brands and types of vehicles;
- The green color is intended for use exclusively in vehicles with a manual transmission. This material does not interact with other oils.
Thus, it is necessary to purchase oil in accordance with the type of gearbox. The most preferred class is D III. Brands: Mobil 320 and LIQUI MOLY ATF 110.
To replace the hydrolytic fluid in a Ford Fusion car without first cleaning the system, you will need no more than 1 liter. With rinsing - 2-3 liters of solution.
When to pour oil?
Experts advise replacing the oil fluid in the power steering every 2-3 years or when the next 100 thousand kilometers are reached. If this is not done, then over time the lubricant will lose its original properties. Various deposits appear in it, contaminating the material.
As a result, such processes lead to a decrease in pressure in the hydraulic system. Therefore, in the future, you will have to put in much more effort to turn the steering wheel.
According to the official documentation that comes with the Ford Focus 2, fluid is poured into the hydraulic system only once during the production of the vehicle. But in practice the situation looks different. This is especially true when the machine has been in use for many years. To avoid the formation of deposits and other negative consequences, it is recommended to regularly check the oil level.
The following signs may indicate the need to replace the lubricant:
- Power steering operates with a characteristic sound;
- leak detected;
- deterioration of the steering column;
- Every time you turn the steering wheel, it takes a lot of effort.
Step-by-step instructions for changing power steering fluid
You can perform a complete or partial oil change in your car. The choice depends on the initial state of the liquid in the expansion tank. If the oil has acquired a characteristic, specific smell and color, it is recommended to completely drain it and then fill it with new one.
The procedure for replacing power steering fluid in a Ford Fusion:
- Initially, you need to turn off the car engine and let it cool;
- Open the hood and secure it;
- Unscrew the cap of the power steering expansion tank;
- Pump out all the liquid using a syringe and rubber tube;
- Determine through which hose the oil enters the power steering expansion tank - this is the return, and through which it leaves and goes to the power steering pump;
- Drain the remaining mixture in the system by disconnecting the hoses;
- Fill with new fluid to the maximum mark (1 l).
After this, without starting the engine, you need to turn the steering wheel several times until it stops. This way the mixture will be distributed evenly throughout the system. If necessary, you can add oil after this.
The newer the car, the stricter the requirements for operating fluids. The power steering is also very sensitive to the type of oil used. The amplifier operates in difficult conditions, under enormous system pressure and often at high temperatures. In addition, the design of the hydraulic booster uses a lot of polymer and rubber parts, which can be destroyed or quickly wear out if the oil is selected incorrectly. Therefore, it is important to know what kind of oil to fill in the power steering of Ford Focus 2, whether it is possible to combine different brands and what Ford Motor Company is thinking about this.
Like any other operating fluid, power steering oil is made either on a mineral, or on a synthetic, or on a semi-synthetic base. What is poured into the hydraulic booster from the assembly flow depends on the plant where the car was assembled. The color of the water in this case will be the main indicator of the choice of oil for topping up and changing, but not the manufacturer of the water. The company has established the following compliance for all water producers:
- for reddish water - WSA-M2C-195-A
;
In addition to these liquids, yellow liquids are also found. Usually, it is poured or was poured at the plant in Vsevolozhsk. Focuses assembled in Cologne are filled with reddish liquid, while cars assembled in Spain are filled with green liquid.
This is such a confusion.
Power steering fluid lasts a long time, about two to three years, but after that it loses its characteristics and requires replacement. The only exception may be damage to the pump or hydraulic system of the amplifier. Then we will change it after the repair, and for the change we will select the fluid that was recommended by a certain plant where our specific Ford Focus 2 was assembled.
One of the ways to change power steering oil
Changing the power steering oil - logbook of the 2012 Ford Focus Sedan special series on DRIVE2
after the replacement I tested the hum became much less so change it in time guys so that there are no serious consequences, thank you all for your attention)
this photo is not mine
this photo is not mine
this photo is not mine
I rinsed the barrels of liquid, rinsed them with water, stuffed a rag in and wiped off the sediment as best I could
I decided to top it up, but sensing the smell of burning oil, I decided to change it to a new one, but the old one is just a black, burning slurry that can hardly be called oil. I bought 2 canisters of 1 liter each so that I could flush the system normally.
Finis green oil 1781003
1. With the car running, pull out fuse No. 56 under the glove compartment in the VSM. 2.After the car has stalled, remove the right headlight. 3.Use any device to pump out the old oil from the power steering reservoir. 4. Disconnect the hose from the return of the power steering reservoir and put a hose with a fitting on it, sending it to the drain container. 5. We put a hose with a plug on the return of the power steering reservoir. 6. Turn the engine on, adding fresh oil until clean (green) oil runs into the drain container. 7. We assemble everything in the reverse order, not forgetting to replace the fuse and the headlight, add oil to the “max” mark of the power steering reservoir. 8. Start the engine and check the oil level.
Now I’m thinking about changing the brake fluid. Anyone who changed it yourself, please share your experience, I thought about changing it according to the book Ford Focus III Repair Manual
Mileage: 80000 km
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Color classification
It is wrong to be guided only by color gradation when choosing oil, although this practice is widespread among car owners. It is also often indicated what color liquids can be mixed and which ones should not be mixed.
Mixing is contraindicated with liquids based on composition and not color, and since now both mineral water and synthetics can be presented in any color, you should treat this information very carefully.
Red ATF gear oil is usually synthetic, the Dexron brand from General Motors is considered the standard, but there are products from other manufacturers, such as Revenol, Motul, Shell, Zic, etc.
Yellow oil, produced by the Daimler concern and under its license, is used in Mercedes-Benz hydraulic boosters. It can be synthetic and mineral.
Green oil. For the most part, multifunctional and universal liquids can be either synthetic or mineral in composition. They are used in power steering, suspension and other systems that operate on liquids. It cannot be mixed with other colors, except in cases where the manufacturer declares full compatibility, for example Comma PSF MVCHF is compatible with some types of Dexron.
Level check
Checking the oil level in the hydraulic system is carried out in several stages:
- The engine must be turned off and wait until it has cooled down sufficiently.
- All components that make up the hydraulic system are wiped with a rag or cloth.
- Check the oil level in the power steering reservoir. If necessary, you can add lubricant.
- Once the work is completed, the engine starts again. With the engine running, turn the steering wheel in different directions.
It is important to note that checking the oil level and replacing it is carried out using different algorithms.
Liquid composition
Based on the composition of the power steering fluid, it can be divided into mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic. The chemical composition determines the basic set of oil functions:
- Viscosity characteristics;
- Lubricating properties;
- Protection of parts from corrosion;
- Prevents foaming;
- Temperature and hydraulic properties.
Synthetics and mineral water cannot be mixed with each other, since the types of additives in them have fundamental differences.
Synthetics
These are high-tech liquids, in the production of which the most modern developments and additives are used. Oil fractions for synthetics are purified by hydrocracking. Polyesters, polyhydric alcohols and sets of additives give them outstanding characteristics: a wide range of operating temperatures, stable oil film, long service life.
The main reason why synthetic-based hydraulic fluid cannot be poured into power steering intended for mineral ones is its aggressive effect on rubber products, of which there are many in the hydraulic booster. Where synthetics are used, the rubber has a completely different composition and is made on a silicone basis.
Semi-synthetics
A mixture of synthetic and mineral oils, due to which the latter receive significant improvements in performance: reduced foaming, fluidity, heat dissipation.
Semi-synthetic fluids include such well-known fluids as: Zic ATF Dex 3, Comma PSF MVCHF, Motul Dexron III and others.
Mineralka
Mineral-based oils contain petroleum fractions (85-98%), the rest are additives that improve the performance of the hydraulic fluid.
They are used in hydraulic boosters containing seals and parts based on ordinary rubber, since the mineral component is neutral and is not harmful to rubber products, unlike synthetics.
Mineral power steering fluids are the most inexpensive, but they also have a short service life. Mobil ATF 320 Premium is considered a good mineral oil; Dexron oils up to and including the IID marking were also mineral.
Replacement algorithm
You can change the power steering oil by contacting a specialized service center. This procedure is also easy to do with your own hands. The second method is preferable because it is less expensive.
Before starting the procedure, you need to prepare a number of tools to facilitate the entire process:
- jack;
- a tube with a fitting 1-1.5 meters long for draining waste liquid;
- container for waste material.
The replacement algorithm looks like this:
- The engine is pre-warmed. This is done so that the liquid drains faster.
- A jack is placed under the front of the car and the car is raised.
- The tank that contains the liquid is disconnected. It is recommended to inspect this container from all sides to ensure that there are no chips or cracks on it.
- Two tubes go to the tank. The top one should be disconnected.
- To drain the oil, a prepared hose is connected to the tank, the second end of which is lowered into a container for waste material.
- Just in case, it is recommended to unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder. This approach will eliminate the possibility of starting the engine, which could cause air to enter the pump tank. The appearance of the latter subsequently contributes to pump failure.
- The starter starts for 1-2 seconds. You can speed up the draining process by turning the steering wheel to the sides.
- Now you can start filling in new oil. To do this, the tube intended for draining is disconnected, and a hose is fixed in its place.
- After finishing filling in the new fluid, you need to return the spark plugs to their place and start the engine. Having reached 1000 rpm, you need to turn the steering wheel, fixing it for a few seconds at the extreme points. These actions allow you to expel air and distribute the lubricant evenly throughout the reservoir and power steering components.
- Finally, it is recommended to turn off the engine and recheck the oil level.
Source: AvtoTehnar.ru
Ford Focus 2 which power steering fluid to fill
Different types of oils
Dexron
- a separate class of ATF fluids from General Motors, produced since 1968. Dexron is a trademark, produced both by GM itself and by other companies under license.
ATF
(Automatic Transmission Fluid) - oils for automatic transmissions, often used by Japanese automakers and in power steering.
P.S.F.
(Power Steering Fluid) - literally translated as power steering fluid.
Multi HF
– special, universal power steering fluids that have approvals from most automobile manufacturers. For example, CHF liquid, produced by the German company Pentosin, has received approvals from BMW, Ford, Chrysler, GM, Porsche, Saab and Volvo, Dodge, Chrysler.
Is it possible to fill the power steering with engine oil?
Motor - definitely not, transmission - with reservations. Next we will look in detail why.
To understand whether other oils, such as motor or transmission oils, can be poured into the power steering, you need to know what functions it performs.
The power steering fluid must cope with the following tasks:
- Lubrication of all power steering components;
- Protection against corrosion and wear of parts;
- Pressure transfer;
- Prevents foaming;
- System cooling.
The above characteristics are achieved by adding various additives, the presence and combination of which gives power steering oil the necessary qualities.
As you understand, the tasks of motor oil are somewhat different, so it is highly not recommended to pour it into the power steering.
Regarding transmission oil, everything is not so clear; the Japanese often use the same ATF fluid for automatic transmission and power steering. Europeans insist on using special PSF (Power Steering Fluid) oils.
Oil for Ford Focus 3
This article does NOT discuss oil manufacturer brands , but only technical data on manufacturer approvals. The choice of one brand or another is a purely personal matter.
Cars were supplied to the Russian market with several engine options installed off the assembly line:
- Petrol turbocharged 1.0 liter and 100 l/s.
- Petrol turbocharged 1.0 liter and 125 l/s.
- Gasoline turbocharged 1.5 liters and 150 l/s.
- Petrol 1.6 liters and 105 l/s.
- Petrol 1.6 liters and 125 l/s.
- Petrol 2.0 liters and 150 l/s.
- Diesel 2.0 liters and 140 l/s.
What kind of fluid to pour into the power steering
Based on this, the answer to the question “what kind of oil to pour into the power steering” is obvious - recommended by the manufacturer of your car. Often information is indicated on the expansion tank or cap. If there is no technical documentation, call an authorized center and ask.
In any case, experiments with steering are unacceptable. Not only your safety, but also that of those around you depends on the health of your power steering.
car model | Recommended liquid |
Audi 80, 100 (audi 80, 100) | VAG G 004 000 M2 |
Audi A6 C5 (audi a6 c5) | Mannol 004000, Pentosin CHF 11S |
Audi a4 (audi a4) | VAG G 004 000M2 |
Audi a6 c6 (audi a6 c6) | VAG G 004 000M2 |
BMW e34 (BMW e34) | CHF 11.S |
BMW E39 (BMW E39) | ATF Dextron 3 |
BMW E46 (BMW E46) | Dexron III, Mobil 320, LIQUI MOLY ATF 110 |
BMW E60 (BMW E60) | Pentosin chf 11s |
BMW x5 e53 (BMW x5 e53) | ATF BMW 81 22 9 400 272, Castrol Dex III, Pentosin CHF 11S |
VAZ 2110 | |
VAZ 2112 | Pentosin Hydraulic Fluid (CHF,11S-tl, VW52137) |
Volvo s40 (volvo s40) | Volvo 30741424 |
Volvo xc90 (volvo xc90) | VOLVO 30741424 |
Gas (Valdai, Sobol, 31105, 3110, 66) | |
Gazelle business | Mobil ATF 320, Castrol-3, Liqui moly ATF, DEXTRON III, CASTROL Transmax Dex III Multivehicle, ZIC ATF III, ZIC dexron 3 ATF, ELF matic 3 |
Gazelle next | Shell Spirax S4 ATF HDX, Dexron III |
Geely MK | |
Geely Emgrand | ATF DEXRON III, Shell Spirax S4 ATF X, Shell Spirax S4 ATF HDX |
Dodge Stratus | ATF+4, Mitsubishi DiaQueen PSF, Mobil ATF 320 |
Daewoo Gentra | Dexron-IID |
Daewoo matiz | Dexron II, Dexron III |
Daewoo Nexia | Dexron II, Dexron III, Top Tec ATF 1200 |
Zaz chance | LiquiMoly Top Tec ATF 1100, ATF Dexron III |
Zil 130 | T22, T30, Dexron II |
Zyl bull | AU (MG-22A), Dexron III |
Kamaz 4308 | TU 38.1011282-89, Dexron III, Dexron II, GIPOL-RS |
Kia Carens | Hyundai Ultra PSF-3 |
Kia rio 3 (Kia rio 3) | PSF-3, PSF-4 |
Kia Sorento | Hyundai Ultra PSF-III, PSF-4 |
Kia Spectra | Hyundai Ultra PSF-III, PSF-4 |
Kia Sportage | Hyundai Ultra PSF-III, PSF-4 |
Kia Cerato | Hyundai Ultra PSF-III, PSF-4 |
Chrysler PT Cruiser | Mopar ATF 4+ (5013457AA) |
Chrysler Sebring | Mopar ATF+4 |
Lada Largus | Mobil ATF 52475 |
Lada Priora | Pentosin Hydraulik Fluid CHF 11S-TL VW52137, Mannol CHF |
Land Rover Freelander 2 | LR003401 pas fluid |
Lifan smiley (lifan smily) | Dexron III |
Lifan solano | Dexron II, Dexron III |
Lifan X60 (lifan x60) | Dexron III |
Maz | BRAND R (Oil MG-22-V) |
Mazda 3 | Mazda M-3 ATF, Dexron III |
Mazda 6 (mazda 6 GG) | Mazda ATF MV, Dexron III |
Mazda cx7 (Mazda cx7) | Motul Dexron III, Mobil ATF320, Idemitsu PSF |
Man 9 (Man) | MAN 339Z1 |
Mercedes w124 (mercedes w124) | Dexron III, Febi 08972 |
Mercedes w164 (mercedes w164) | A000 989 88 03 |
Mercedes w210 (mercedes w210) | A0009898803, Febi 08972, Fuchs Titan PSF |
Mercedes w211 (mercedes w211) | A001 989 24 03 |
Mercedes Actros | Pentosin CHF 11S |
Mercedes atego (mercedes atego) | Dexron III, Top Tec ATF 1100, MV 236.3 |
Mercedes ML (mercedes ml) | A00098988031, Dexron IID, MB 236.3, Motul Multi ATF |
Mercedes sprinter | Dexron III |
Mitsubishi Outlander | Dia Queen PSF, Mobil ATF 320 |
Mitsubishi Galant | Mitsubishi Dia Queen PSF, Mobil ATF 320, Motul DEXRON III |
Mitsubishi Lancer 9, 10 (Mitsubishi Lancer) | Dia Queen PSF, Mobil ATF 320, Dexron III |
Mitsubishi Montero Sport | Dexron III |
Mitsubishi Pajero | Dia Queen PSF, Mobil ATF 320 |
Mitsubishi Pajero 4 | Dia Queen PSF, Mobil ATF 320 |
Mitsubishi Pajero Sport | Dia Queen PSF, Mobil ATF 320 |
Mtz 82 | in summer M10G2, M10V2, in winter M8G2, M8V2 |
Nissan Avenir | Dexron II, Dexron III, Dex III, Castrol Transmax Dex III Multivehicle |
Nissan ad | NISSAN KE909-99931 "PSF |
Nissan Almera | Dexron III |
Nissan Murano | KE909-99931 PSF |
Nissan Primera | ATF320 Dextron III |
Nissan Teana J31 (Nissan Teana J31) | Nissan PSF KLF50-00001, Dexron III, Dexron VI |
Nissan Cefiro | Dexron II, Dexron III |
Nissan Pathfinder | KE909-99931 PSF |
Opel Antara | GM Dexron VI |
Opel Astra H (opel astra H) EGR | OPEL PSF 19 40 715, SWAG 99906161, FEBI-06161 |
Opel Astra J | Dexron VI, General Motors 93165414 |
Opel Vectra A | Dexron VI |
Opel Vectra B | GM 1940771, Dexron II, Dexron III |
Opel Mokka | ATF DEXRON VI" Opel 19 40 184 |
Peugeot 206 | Total Fluide AT42, Total Fluide LDS |
Peugeot 306 | Total Fluide DA, Total Fluide LDS |
Peugeot 307 | Total Fluid DA |
Peugeot 308 | Total Fluid DA |
Peugeot 406 | Total Fluide AT42, GM DEXRON-III |
Peugeot 408 | Total FLUIDE AT42, PENTOSIN CHF11S, Total FLUIDE DA |
Peugeot partner | Total Fluide AT42, Total Fluide DA |
Ravon Gentra | Dexron 2D |
Renault duster | ELF ELFMATIC G3, ELF RENAULTMATIC D3, Mobil ATF 32 |
Renault Laguna | ELF RENAULT MATIC D2, Mobil ATF 220, Total FLUIDE DA |
Renault Logan | Elf Renaultmatic D3, Elf Matic G3 |
Renault Sandero | ELF RENAULTMATIC D3 |
Renault simbol | ELF RENAULT MATIC D2 |
Citroen Berlingo | TOTAL FLUIDE ATX, TOTAL FLUIDE LDS |
Citroen C4 (Citroen C4) | Total Fluide DA, TOTAL FLUIDE LDS, Total Fluide AT42 |
Scania | ATF Dexron II |
SsangYong New Actyon | ATF Dexron II, Total Fluide DA, Shell LHM-S |
SsangYong Kyron | Total Fluide DA, Shell LHM-S |
Subaru Impreza | Dexron III |
Subaru Forester | ATF DEXTRON IIE, III, PSF Fluid Subaru K0515-YA000 |
Suzuki Grand Vitara | Mobil ATF 320, Pentosin CHF 11S, Suzuki ATF 3317 |
Suzuki Liana | Dexron II, Dexron III, CASTROL ATF DEX II multivehicle, RYMCO, Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1100 |
Tata (truck) | Dexron II, Dexron III |
Toyota Avensis | 08886-01206 |
Toyota Carina | Dexron II, Dexron III |
Toyota Corolla (Toyota Hiace) | Dexron II, Dexron III |
Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 120 (Toyota Land Cruiser 120) | 08886-01115, PSF NEW-W, Dexron III |
Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 150 (Toyota Land Cruiser 150) | 08886-80506 |
Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 200 (Toyota Land Cruiser 200) | PSF NEW-W |
Toyota Hiace | Toyota ATF DEXTRON III |
Toyota Chaser | Dexron III |
UAZ loaf | Dexron II, Dexron III |
UAZ patriot, hunter | Mobil ATF 220 |
Fiat Albea | DEXRON III, ENEOS ATF-III, Tutela Gi/E |
Fiat Doblo | Spirax S4 ATF HDX, Spirax S4 ATF X |
Fiat Ducato | TUTELA GI/A ATF DEXRON 2 D LEV SAE10W |
Volkswagen Vento | VW G002000, Dexron III |
Volkswagen Golf 3 | G002000, Febi 6162 |
Volkswagen Golf 4 | G002000, Febi 6162 |
Volkswagen Passat B3 | G002000, VAG G004000M2, Febi 6162 |
Volkswagen Passat B5 (Volkswagen passat B5) | VAG G004000M2 |
Volkswagen Transporter T4, T5 (Volkswagen Transporter) | VAG G 004 000 M2 Power Steering Fluid G004, Febi 06161 |
Volkswagen Touareg | VAG G 004 000 |
Ford Mondeo 3 (ford mondeo 3) | FORD ESP-M2C-166-H |
Ford Mondeo 4 | WSA-M2C195-A |
Ford transit | WSA-M2C195-A |
Ford Fiesta | Mercon V |
Ford Focus 1 | Ford WSA-M2C195-A, Mercon LV Automatic, FORD C-ML5, Ravenol PSF, Castrol Transmax Dex III, Dexron III |
Ford Focus 2 | WSS-M2C204-A2, WSA-M2C195-A |
Ford Focus 3 | Ford WSA-M2C195-A, Ravenol Hydraulik PSF Fluid |
Ford Fusion | Ford DP-PS, Mobil ATF 320, ATF Dexron III, Top Tec ATF 1100 |
Hyundai Accent | RAVENOL PSF Power Steering Fluid, DEXRON III |
Hyundai Getz | ATF SHC |
Hyundai Matrix | PSF-4 |
Hyundai SantaFe | Hyundai PSF-3, PSF-4 |
Hyundai Solaris | PSF-3, Dexron III, Dexron VI |
Hyundai Sonata | PSF-3 |
Hyundai Tucson/Tucson | PSF-4 |
Honda accord 7 | PSF-S |
Honda Odyssey | Honda PSF, PSF-S |
Honda HRV | Honda PSF-S |
Chery amulet | BP Autran DX III |
Chery bonus | Dexron III, DP-PS, Mobil ATF 220 |
Chery very | Dexron II, Dexron III, Totachi ATF Multi-Vehicle |
Chery indis | Dexron II, Dexron III |
Chery Tiggo | Dexron III, Top Tec ATF 1200, ATF III HC |
Chevrolet Aveo | DEXTRON III, Eneos ATF III |
Chevrolet Captiva | Power Steering Fluid Cold Climate, Transmax Dex III Multivehicle, ATF Dex II Multivehicle |
Chevrolet Cobalt | DEXRON VI |
Chevrolet Cruze | Pentosin CHF202, CHF11S, CHF7.1, Dexron 6 GM |
Chevrolet Lacetti | DEXRON III, DEXRON VI |
Chevrolet Niva | Pentosin Hydraulic Fluid CHF11S VW52137 |
Chevrolet Epica | GM Dexron 6 No.-1940184, Dexron III, Dexron VI |
Skoda Octavia tour | VAG 00 4000 M2, Febi 06162 |
Skoda Fabia | Power Steering Fluid G004 |
The data in the table is collected from publicly available sources |
What to fill?
It is important to know what type of oil should be poured into the power steering. It comes in two colors: red and green. In order to add the correct one, you need to find out what was in the system before. If this information is not available to you, then the color can be determined. To do this, you just need to drop oil from the power steering with a syringe or other device onto a clean cloth or sheet of paper.
You can choose one of the following:
- Red - WSA-M2C195-A;
- Green - WSS-M2C204-A2.
The best way to find the right oil is to find out which one the manufacturer recommends.
How to top up
The process of topping up is simple - you need to unscrew the cap of the power steering expansion tank and add enough fluid so that it is between the MIN and MAX marks.
The main problem when adding power steering oil is its choice. It’s good if the replacement has not yet been made, and the system contains fluid from the manufacturer’s factory. In this case, it is enough to check the technical documentation, take the recommended oil and add to the required amount.
If you don’t know what’s in the system, we recommend replacing it right away, because in any case you’ll have to buy a canister of liquid to top up.
Body
Bumper, Front Bumper, Washer Cap, Rear Bumper, Bumper Grille, Bumper Absorber, Bumper Molding, Rear Bumper Molding, Front Bumper Molding, Bumper Skirt, Rear Bumper Skirt, Front Bumper Skirt, Bumper Reinforcement, Bumper Bracket, Bumper Cover, Rear Cover Bumper, Front bumper cover, Bumper cover, Bumper mount, License plate frame, Fender, Front fender, Rear fender, Fuel filler flap, Fender liner, Front fender liner, Rear fender liner, Fender cover, Fender molding, Fender mount, Fender arch, Hood, Hinge Hood, Hood Cable, Hood Insulation, Hood Seal, Hood Hook, Hood Support, Hood Damper, Trunk, Trunk Damper, Trunk Door, Trunk Button, Trunk Latch, Trunk Lid, Trunk Trim, Trunk Shelf, Trunk Seal, Trunk Support, Doors , Front door, Rear door, Door trim, Door molding, Door handle, Window lifter, Door hinge, Door seal, Door limit switch, Mirror, Side mirror, Left mirror, Right mirror, Mirror element (glass), Mirror button (adjuster), Mirror cover, Mirror cover, Mirror turn signal, Glasses, Windshield, Rear glass, Rear window defogger button, Door glass, Glass seal, Glass molding, Frame, Windshield wiper, Washer reservoir, Washer motor, Wiper motor, Washer nozzles, Trapezium, Motor Windshield wiper, Wiper rod (drive), Wiper blades, Wiper rubber, Lock, Door lock, Lock set, Central locking, Central locking button, Ignition switch, Ignition key, Trunk lock, Fuel tank lock, Hood lock, Lock cylinder, Trim, Grille radiator, Emblem, Air intake (jabot), Mud flaps, Roof molding, Door sill, Arch extension, Panels, Radiator panel, Headlight frame, Threshold, Rear panel, Underbody, Trunk floor, Roof panel, Radiator protection, Side members, Nameplate, Sidewall, Battery mount, Noise insulation, Fasteners, Clips, Pistons, Hatch, Hatch button, Elastic elements