VAZ 21099 injector starts and immediately stalls

The best

look at the fuel pressure in the rail, if there is a return line, see if gasoline is flowing from it, if it doesn’t, then there is no fuel pressure in the rail,
look at the main relay, the fuel pump relay, the fuses, right the caps with it from them and look, maybe the main thing clicks for you and immediately hangs up or doesn't turn on at all,

see if the immobilizer is sewn into the firmware, flash the firmware from the ECU to the table and look, or replace it with another ECU, look for errors with a scanner,

look at the readings of the mass air flow sensor and the IAC (the latter can be checked by slightly opening the throttle valve)

Why does a VAZ injector car immediately start and stall?

Situations when a VAZ injector starts up immediately and then immediately stalls appear quite often. And all the rest due to the accounting fuel injection system (forced type). To correct this situation, car owners often use a heating plug, but this is not a solution to the problem, but only a temporary measure. If a VAZ 2107 starts and stalls immediately

after turning the key in
the ignition , this almost always indicates a problem in the delivery of fuel (the fuel pump is clogged or is not working correctly), or the quality of the fuel used is not sufficiently developed, and the injectors are simply clogged. And the car starts only with the remaining fuel in the cylinders.

Finding the faulty component

What do you need to do if the engine just starts, but then immediately slows down and stalls? First, you need to check for carbon deposits on the spark plugs. If some models are covered with a layer of carbon deposits, then the engine a priori does not have the right to work normally. It first starts by moving the starter, but then immediately slows down, because several cylinders at the physical level are not able to withstand the entire load from the crankshaft. The carburetor, in some cases, can also fail due to this problem.

So what is the cause of the motor malfunction? If the car starts, then, no less, with a spark, what remains for our client to do normally. In other words, the electrics work as expected. It will be useful to unscrew the heads and try to find those candles that are covered with a layer of soot. There is an option to clean them by burning them over a gas burner and cleaning with alcohol (do this, of course, only when the contacts are cool).

The injector itself

It can also get clogged. The supply of fuel to the combustion chamber simply does not work. The following actions should be performed:

remove the blocks and check the valves;
check the operation of the sensors;
check whether the engine operates normally at temperatures above 80ºС.

Accelerator pump failure

What causes problems with the accelerator pump:

Incorrect spray dosage or channel blocked by debris.
Worn (torn) diaphragm.
The pump drive is incorrectly selected.

Factory-made sprayers have two strokes directed into the chambers. Most experts are sure that the second “spout” in this system is superfluous, so you can install a sprayer with one stroke, as, for example, on the Niva.

You need to check the presence of the atomization process by removing the carburetor and unscrewing the top cover. In this case, fuel must be filled into the float chamber. The throttle valve opens, and two jets pass through the lower part of the housing without touching it - this is a sign of serviceability.

21099" Stalls

Previously it stalled when I pressed the accelerator pedal, at the moment. almost immediately

after the launch, the rest is on video.

Perhaps the fuel pump itself could be faulty. When the engine is started, the injector turns automatically due to the use of a starter, and then the thrust comes from the generator. If one of these components does not work correctly, the car will simply stall . Here again we are talking about the residual amount of fuel in the cylinders. On the contrary, the engine immediately stalls, and together with its help the starter also works unevenly, then, most likely, there is a problem either in the personal computer, in other words, in the ignition switch

You should test it, replace it with a previously serviceable one, and retest the operation of the motor. In the latter case, the contacts are simply clamped.

Diagnosis of IAC

How can you diagnose a faulty idle air control valve?:

You stopped for 5 minutes after a long trip, naturally the engine is hot. After this, you try to start the engine, but the engine does not start or starts and immediately stalls. Even if the engine starts, the normal idle speed is not set immediately, but only after pressing the gas pedal more than once.
The same situation can occur on a cold engine. The first time the engine starts and immediately stalls, but the second time it runs fine.
Whatever the engine, hot or cold, it starts only when the gas pedal is depressed.
The situation is the same as in point 3, but the accelerator pedal must be held constantly until the engine warms up or the car starts moving.
You braked sharply and the car suddenly stalled; when you restart, the idle speed remains within normal limits.
The idle speed hangs in an inflated range from 1500 to 2000 revolutions and only after revving it returns to normal values. Therefore, if your car’s engine starts and immediately stalls, try immediately flushing the throttle assembly and idle air control. If this doesn't help, just replace the IAC and that's it.

The main reasons for engine stopping while driving or after starting it

There are two main signs when an internal combustion engine (ICE) stalls:

the motor stops almost immediately after starting (in place, without moving the car);
the engine turns off (the speed drops to the very minimum) when you try to start moving or switch to a higher load.

The reasons for this behavior of the internal combustion engine are very different and sometimes unexpected; if the engine stalls, barely having time to start, this may be as a result of:

lack of fuel supply (no gasoline entering the carburetor float chamber);
somehow the ignition is turned off;
idle speed disappeared;
the fuel filter is clogged;
a partition in the muffler blocked the exit of exhaust gases.

If there is no fuel supply, the fuel pump is most often to blame (on VAZ models 2108, 2109 and 21099 it is of a mechanical type).

To make sure there is fuel supply, you need to remove the central high-voltage wire, disconnect the main fuel pipe from the carburetor and crank it with the starter. If the used pump pumps, gasoline will immediately begin to flow out of the hose; this check should be carried out by two people.

Injector malfunction

The next reason that the engine starts and immediately stalls is a malfunction of the injector. Since most modern cars have a forced fuel injection system, this malfunction is very common.

Don't make mistakes.

What should not be allowed when operating fuel-injected cars:

Do not disconnect the battery while the engine is running.
Try to play with lighting as little as possible, and in general, handle food as carefully as possible. Injection cars are very sensitive to such manipulations.
Try not to disconnect the ground on the car. Although I turn off the mains in my car in winter if I don’t drive for a long time, and so far I have not noticed any discomfort in operation, although many experts say that it is possible to erase information in the computer. I just try to let the car idle for up to 3 minutes when starting the engine.
Injector-injected cars are not very fond of charging and starting devices, since when they are used, the voltage jumps significantly and the ECU can burn out.

If a neutralizer is provided in the design of the car, then try not to start the car by towing or pushing it down a hill, as unburned fuel is formed, which, if it gets into the neutralizer, can ignite spontaneously.
Do not allow water to enter the injector; this is strictly contraindicated. To do this, change fuel filters in a timely manner and fill with high-quality gasoline.

What does a neutralizer look like?

If your car is equipped with an L probe and a neutralizer, then think about whether you should take the risk by using leaded gasoline. When using such gasoline, the L-probe, in addition to the fact that it itself can quickly break down, it will transmit incorrect data to the ECU, indicating a large amount of oxygen, and this, to put it mildly, is not very good, as it can lead to local overheating of the engine .

So, we return again to our problem, the engine starts and immediately stalls or does not start at all.

Problems with idle speed of VAZ models 2108-09-099

VAZ cars of the “ninth” family are equipped with Solex carburetors; they differ in modifications depending on the engine size (1100, 1300 or 1500 cm³). Externally, the carburetor units (CU) are almost completely identical, the difference lies in the internal “filling”: jets of different cross-sections, an accelerator pump nozzle (APA), emulsion tubes, and diffusers are installed. The idle speed system (IDS) in these CUs is responsible for the stability of minimum engine speeds, as well as for fuel consumption.

Complete sabotage

The most deplorable situation, the engine does not start at all.

First of all, you need to maintain composure and not scold the car itself. Only after this, we calmly begin to find out the reason why the engine does not start.

Do not allow the battery to be severely discharged by pointlessly rotating the engine crankshaft, the energy will still be useful to you, but where you will charge the battery if you are far from home is the question. Although for the electronic unit itself 8 Volts will be quite enough. But, of course, they won’t be enough for the starter.

When you have calmed down, be sure to check:

How does the fuel pump work and is there any fuel in the tank?
Is there ignition?
Is the engine crankshaft timing sensor functioning?
Have the injectors failed, although the failure of several injectors at once is too much, this happens very rarely.
The ECU is working. But this device also fails very rarely.

Let's sum it up

If your nine stalls immediately after it starts and does not want to idle, then first of all you need to check:

Is the ignition system working?
Is the power system working?

First, make sure that you haven’t run out of fuel (yes, that happens). If there is gasoline in the tank, open the hood and do a visual inspection of the engine and carburetor. Make sure all the wires are in place (at least none of them are loose or burnt).

Finding out the cause of the problem

Now let's figure out how to quickly find out:

The performance of the fuel pump, of course, is determined by its sound. If there is no sound, then check the wiring and provide 12 V supply to it. Pay attention to the pressure in the fuel system, it should be within 2 - 3 bar while the pump is running. If the fuel supply is stopped, the pressure in the system does not drop immediately. If the pressure drops sharply and there are no fuel leaks, then pay attention to the fuel pressure regulator. At least it can be silenced for a short time.
Checking the ignition. To avoid burning the ECU, the spark plug must be connected to ground as best as possible.
When checking the synchronization sensor, first of all, we pay attention to the integrity of the wiring and its shielding.
As for the ECU, you need to try to move all possible connections. There is a high probability that something has come loose somewhere.
Notice if the Check Engine light is on. If it lights up, then all is not lost and the ECU is still working. You need to know that it is not yet possible on VAZ cars without a tester to find out the error code and identify the location of the fault.

If a suspiciously large number of error codes are displayed, then you need to pay attention not to the sensors, but to the fact that some part of your car has completely disappeared.
You should also pay attention to the performance of the crankshaft synchronization sensor and the performance of the injector control system. But all this requires a special tester, and rarely does anyone carry this device with them in their car. Yes, and it is advisable for specialists to perform such work.
But many people can check the voltage in the network. As a rule, when the engine is running it should be 14 V, when starting the engine 8 V, and when the engine is not running 12.5 V.
Be sure to check the integrity of the camshaft drive belt and pulley. It's not hard to do.
And the last hope. We disconnect everything possible from the ECU (electronic control unit), only leaving the crankshaft synchronization sensor. But again, if you know what you're doing. If you don't know, it's better not to interfere.

The engine still starts, but it is problematic:

Check the air filter for clogging. If you have completely forgotten where it is, then everything is clear. Go ahead, buy a new filter, or at least clean the old one.
Check the fuel pump as described above.
When starting the engine, depress the clutch, this will make starting easier.
Pay attention to what temperature the coolant sensor shows and what it actually is. Deviations should be within 5, 6 degrees.
Again, check the car's voltage. What voltage should be, see above, paragraph 8.
Pay attention to the quality of the fuel. Ask yourself the question, “Where did I refuel today?”
We move all possible connectors. It’s corny, but sometimes it helps.
We look at the camshaft drive belt.

These are the simplest actions that are available to many drivers. To conduct a more detailed diagnosis of the cause of poor engine starting, of course, it is better to contact a car service center. Professional equipment and devices will already be used there.

UAZ Patriot ICE409 – starts, runs for a couple of seconds, bang – and stalls

Post by daimler2000 » 18 Jul 2020, 14:33

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by Jura » Jul 18, 2020, 5:34 pm

Synchronize the DPKV and DPRV sensors into the judge. Turn off the flow meter and try putting it in emergency mode.

I’m not an expert on Px, but the pressure in the cylinder is quite high and the rest of the oscillation is also not correct, in my opinion there’s something wrong with the timing. Yes, and the crankshaft disc was not checked, but on the damper

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by Serg57i » Jul 18, 2020, 10:34 pm

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by daimler2000 » 20 Jul 2020, 09:48

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by savus » Jul 20, 2020, 10:29 am

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by Jura » Jul 20, 2020, 11:35 am

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by daimler2000 » Jul 20, 2020, 11:41 am

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by savus » Jul 20, 2020, 12:04 pm

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by Jura » Jul 20, 2020, 12:27 pm

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by savus » Jul 20, 2020, 12:39 pm

Synchronization is familiar to me, AvtoGAZ and hedgehog are NOT. But I don’t know what a flow meter is.

Put a channel on the injector and get a spark. Let's see who gets cut off in the first seconds. Looks like injectors. Look at the diagram to see who they have the advantage with, I don’t remember from memory right now. It will be necessary, I'll take a look. Have you looked at the phases? Try turning off the DPRV. and a knock sensor. Let's try to outwit Tell me how it stalls in the first seconds, cuts out, or how there is no fuel, that is, it burns out like in 15 seconds? And cotton, I understand. Where is it clapping, did you see it? I won't distract you. And when you start it, give it gas, it will stall or not.

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by Jura » Jul 20, 2020, 3:12 pm

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by daimler2000 » Jul 20, 2020, 6:10 pm

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by savus » Jul 20, 2020, 7:36 pm

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by daimler2000 » Jul 20, 2020, 8:37 pm

Re: UAZ Patriot 409 engine. Starts up, pops for a couple of seconds and then stalls.

Post by savus » Jul 20, 2020, 8:48 pm

If it stalls, the module will turn off anyway. Power it with a separate wire directly and start it. By Dx I saw what kind of [censored] he has. Then, if possible, will you synchronize it? It’s interesting what such a discharge does. In general, first of all, try to start it without the DPRV in the usual way. If it doesn’t help, then power up the fuel module and start it with the DPRV. And write how it is, if anything happens, we’ll think about it together.

I have now increased Dx, as I said before, referring to Px and such Dx that the phases have moved forward, i.e. Graduation starts much later than expected. Does it have a simple engine, not tuned, are the shafts and sprockets original? How did it all start?