UAZ 3303, 2dv onboard, 76 hp, 4 manual transmission, 1985 - 1997

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User recommendations for the ZMZ-409 UAZ internal combustion engine

Question: car UAZ-390945 2013 engine ZMZ 409.100 mileage 90,000 km. no traction, replaced the fuel pump (BOSH), the traction has improved a little, it works fine at idle, when you drive, you press on the gas, there is a hum and slowly picks up speed (if the injectors, then at idle it would tighten up or something? What else should I look at? Can the adsorber influence it?) Answer : The camshaft angles are gone. Set up the shafts. Need to replace sprocket chain. The arguments are strong - you can’t put the chain back - it’s stretched. Question: What other symptoms are possible if the angles are gone? Answer: Take off the valve cover and take a look. And so - a low guttural rumble when adding gas and the absence of a vigorous jerk forward. Moreover, they do not accelerate quickly and the hum subsides. It is heard when you pedal to make a jerk. Question: Here is a problem with a UAZ-390945 loaf with a ZMZ-4091: when driving in 3rd gear, a rather strong detonation occurs in the engine with a characteristic “valve knocking”. This does not happen in 1st, 2nd or 4th gear. You have to accelerate in 2nd gear to 3-3.5 thousand rpm so that after switching to 3rd gear detonation does not occur. What could this be causing (gasoline is normal) and how can I get rid of this problem? Answer: Look at the knock sensor. Question: Can you tell me how to change the alternator drive belt on a UAZ-390945 ZMZ 409.04 Euro 3? Answer: ZMZ 409.04 has two belts, similar to earlier versions of the engine, but the generator drive belt tension system is different. Everything is very simple. 1) One person uses an assembly tool to move the tensioner roller to its extreme position. As an option, with his eyes bulging and groaning from the strain, he pulls on the belt. 2) The second one inserts a pin into the hole in the ebb of the tensioner body - a nail of suitable diameter, a drill shank, etc. The pin will be inserted and fixed only in the extreme position of the tensioner. 3) Change the belt. 4) Repeat steps 1-2, only we don’t insert the pin, but pull it out. Question: can you tell me what is the length of the belt for the fan and steering??? Answer: I have a UAZ 315195 2004, engine 409.00a, 128 hp v2690. Both belts are the same - 1220, maybe 1225. The belts are the same and interchangeable. You can put a fan belt on the pump if necessary. There is a Euro-3 with an automatic tensioner, there is a generator longer than 6RK 1275. On loaves with ZMZ 409, Euro-3 belts are 1230 and 1054. Question: Yesterday the following problem came out: it caught fire, the check engine began to work unstably and it began to shake. Today we looked at the spark plugs and they were all clean and free of carbon deposits. At idle, the check light just lights up and starts flashing as the speed increases. Tell me where to look for the reason. Answer: Most likely misfire. The check indicates this; when the speed increases, the check begins to blink, warning that unburned fuel ignites in the converter, which leads to its overheating and further failure. Change the explosives and spark plugs. Question: ZMZ-409 engine, 2006, 18,000 flying hours, 2 euros. Yesterday it barely started, only with the 5th crank of the starter. Before this, something strange happened: when I turned on the ignition (not the starter, but simply turned the key to turn it on), there was a pop in the exhaust tract under the bottom, as if the fuel had burned out. but you didn’t manage to start it? What could have popped? Before this, the problems were jerking at idle, after replacing the spark plugs (4 were burnt), washing the pump screen and clearing the errors, everything seemed to be normal. but a week before yesterday, twitching again, but very rare. what could it be? Answer: 1. twitching. Most likely the cause was a successfully flushed injector. At first, after removal, it sprayed almost like a stream, then as it was washed, it began to spray. those. The fuel in cylinder 4 did not burn completely, hence the sooty spark plug. I washed the IAC to a heap. There are no twitches yet, but we are watching. they gave a guarantee 2. shot: - a glitch feature of the crankshaft sensor, which on gazelles and UAZs can malfunction after some water in the cold. When you turn the key, it gives the command to ignite. Some of the gasoline is already pumped into the cylinders and since 2 can be opened, all of it rushes into the exhaust. They did not change the sensor, because According to the guys, the new one may be the same - they often see this on 406/409 engines. Question: the situation is this: you start everything fine, after warming up, and even then not immediately, but after about an hour some kind of cramp begins in the engine, the whole thing shakes and almost stalls, you turn off the mass air flow sensor, it evens out a little, but not much. It’s definitely not the case, as I tried filming it from a work machine. Just in case, I’ll write down which parts I’ve already changed: 1) DMRV 2) Spark plugs 3) wires 4) coils 5) camshaft and idle speed sensors PS There are no errors. Answer: Based on the symptoms, it looks like a glitch in the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS). It's near the thermostat. Question: I have a standard 31512 with 4x half-sync, 1992 Guards. 1. Is it even possible to install 409 on my car? Will it fit the landing without modification? 2. Which engine modification should I buy? I have a right exhaust. Answer: 1. It is possible. If the clutch housing is universal (for 4th and 5th gearboxes) 2. With MIKAS 7.2. Receiving pipes are bent to the right. The engine comes with a crankcase, 4st is already 5th. They should sell universal ones (I found one). The pipe bends after the transfer case, it’s easier to put the entire exhaust tract on the left side. Question: We have a UAZ Hunter, ZMZ-409 Euro-3 engine, Bosh M17.9.7, 2010. The car is a year and a half old, but it was my first time driving in such heat. I noticed that the pumping of gasoline from the left tank had stopped. After another half an hour, the failures began. The right tank had about 20 liters. The tank was hot, but my hand tolerated it, it felt like about 50 degrees. After filling with 10 liters of cold gasoline, the failures stopped, but there was still no pumping from the left tank. Cold gasoline was enough for a half-hour trip, then the failures resumed. I stopped and listened to BN’s work. If in normal mode it hums, then here it barely buzzed. The electric pump itself was replaced at the service. The mesh was a little dirty, but not fatally. After the replacement everything worked as it should. The next day there was a trip to another place. It all happened again. Only if the old pump, even with failures, allowed it to go, then after 2 hours the new Bosch simply fell silent and that’s it.

After cooling down, everything returned to normal. More precisely, almost back to normal. The BN was already humming, but there was pumping, but very weak. Those. gasoline was pumped a little faster than it was consumed: about 10 liters were pumped in about an hour. The next day I disassembled both tanks and washed them. There was dirt, of course, but nothing critical was revealed. There was also a bit of dirt in the jet pump (the jet pump is in the same housing as the BN). I cleaned everything I could. I couldn’t find the right mesh, but for the purity of the experiment I installed a suitable one. The first fine filter was changed at 2 thousand km, the second at 10 thousand km. Now it's 15, i.e. I've driven it for 5 years. I haven't changed it yet, because the situation is strange, because... everything works cold. Has anyone encountered this and what could be the problem? Answer: I think the fuel pressure regulator is faulty. It is located in the module itself. On older models it sits on the ramp and you could simply clamp the return line. And here, apparently, he is to blame. I can't say anything about the renovation. I have never encountered such a regulator. And the principle of operation is to cut off excess and create normal pressure for the injectors. This means that it cuts off this pressure first and there is no more of it left for the operation of the injectors, and then the engine. Of course, this could be due to the heat. I had the same thing. To the point that the left one is full of gasoline, and the right one is already running out. When I get ready to deal with this problem, it immediately starts pumping normally. I'm waiting to change the pump. The Euro-3 pump differs from other models in its high pressure. Question: UAZ-390995 ZMZ-409 Euro-2 - when hot, it started to start on the 3rd crank of the starter, and you have to apply gas to start. A cold one starts the first time without adding gas. The ignition is set to +1.5 degrees, diagnostics showed a malfunction of the camshaft sensor, after which it was turned off (the chip was removed), after starting the hydraulic compensators tap and at idle the engine does not run smoothly (the speed fluctuates, there is vibration (mild). Before this, the engine was overheated ( the radiator was pierced) the head was pulled away, the gasket was pierced. Repairs were made, the head was leveled, the gasket was replaced. Apparently the hydraulic compensators were also damaged due to overheating. The question is which direction to dig, what else could have suffered during overheating and affected the start of a hot engine? Answer: Coolant temperature sensor fluid. If it is crooked, then you have to use gas when starting when it’s hot. Wash the IAC and damper, check the intake tract pipes and IAC for leaks, and check the manifold’s diesel engine. Question: Tell me, the UAZ Hunter engine ZMZ-409, when you start it cold, it starts to squeal and the check light comes on, I do diagnostics, it shows misfire on cylinders 1-2-3-4, while the car is operating normally, as soon as it sits overnight it all starts, mileage is 42,500 thousand. Answer: check the ignition coils and the contact of the wires in them. Question: a week ago a car arrived and the check engine light was on. Checked - cylinder 3 misfires. I swapped the wires, spark plug tips, coils, checked the voltage on them, took them to a service station, replaced the injectors, even changed the brains! Today he calls: he’s having trouble again. Arrived - cylinder 3. What else could it be? The voltage to the injector is normal, the compression is also good! Answer: Misfire in cylinders. This defect appears especially often when starting the car in cold weather. The car also jerks when accelerating hard. The misfire signal appears after 15 minutes or more. Indicates that bad gasoline was poured into the car, and the injectors began to spray fuel poorly. This is where the misfire started. This is all the more evidenced by the fact that misfires appear on 2 cylinders driven by two different coils.

Why is this happening? After the car sits overnight, fuel leaks out of the leaking injector. This causes the mixture to be too rich at start-up. But this is at the initial stage. It's worse if the injectors generate bad dust. The injectors supplied water at the required pulse time. But because the injectors are clogged. They supplied less fuel than necessary and, even worse, the fuel was either poorly atomized or almost not atomized. The fuel burns poorly, which is why leaks occur. As the engine warms up, the engine misfires disappear. The explosive wires are damaged. Since when starting the machine at a lower temperature. The ignition system is under heavy load. That high voltage breaks through the damaged insulation and drains to the minus of the motor.

Check with a multimeter. Burnt out resistor in the spark plug tip. Check with a multimeter. If misfires occur after 15 minutes or more, it indicates that the ignition coil is most likely dying. It is almost impossible to check the coil. If you have two coils, then swap them. if misfires appear on other cylinders. This indicates a defect in the coil. If the spark plugs have individual Euro 4 coils, then swap the coils. If the defect moves. It's the coil's fault. Low compression. Look, compensators and so on. Question: I want to change the rollers on the engine, all in a bunch. Something began to creak. Engine ZMZ-409 with air conditioning, euro 3, 1 belt. As far as I saw, there is one tension roller and two stationary ones, i.e. only 3 pieces. Can anyone tell me the part code or where can I find it? Another question: is this code suitable for selecting imported videos? Answer: If they start squeaking on E3, it means the belt will come off soon. The first sign of jamming of the rolling roller bearings. Go to the store, buy three ADS rollers and a belt and change them. Question: The car is UAZ-390945, what is the trick of the ZMZ 409 Euro-2. Yesterday I changed the tension roller and the alternator-pump belt, and a problem arose with the power steering belt, I somehow removed it but left it with some kind of mother. Gur weakened completely. Maybe my belt is shorter or I did something wrong. All this took 2 hours, although people on the forum write that they change it in 20 minutes and even with smoke breaks. But at the same time, the question is of course off topic, but excuse me. The stoves are getting airy, what could be the reason? It runs only after turning on the electric pump, and then everything is fine. Moreover, it becomes airy after parking for example overnight. I changed the thermostat from 82 degrees to 87, in the summer I turned off the heater tap, maybe it didn’t open completely (by the way, where is it located at 622), and I also noticed after the trip that when the engine is hot, the antifreeze level in the expansion tank rises, and when it cools down, the level decreases. As it should be. But sometimes the antifreeze level does not decrease. What could be the reason? Answer: The same thing happened with belts. Now I set both 1230 instead of 1220 and there are no problems. With GUR, try this: Completely unscrew the pump, start the belt and screw in the bolts. Regarding airing: the reason is not in the thermostat or in the stove tap. First, you need to check the tightness of the system. Question: UAZ Pickup model with ZMZ-409 engine. At 90,000 km, the timing chain was replaced at the service center as a preventative measure (it did not make any noise). There was a single row, I installed a double row with a full set of gears, etc. Immediately after the repair, a howling sound appeared on the throttle at 2000 rpm and above. Maybe someone has encountered such a problem? Answer: I solved the howling problem myself, changed the hydraulic tensioner sprockets, the oil pump, loosened and re-tightened the camshafts, but it didn’t help. And the casket opened simply. After replacing the chains, I installed hydromechanical tensioners, which are screwed in place of the hydraulic tensioner cover. Usually there is a PCB gasket under the cover; it serves as a damper for the hydraulic tensioner, while the new ones are attached rigidly and an itchy vibration (howling) comes from under the front cover. Maybe it will help someone. If you are going to install a hydromechanical one, then only one that is inserted under the cap with a gasket instead of the standard one. Question: Siemens 6354 injectors tear between plastic and metal, what is the reason? Answer: I encountered rupture of injectors, deliberately increasing the pressure, and once the cause of the rupture was heptyl added to gasoline to increase the octane number. There may be a defect in the manufacture of injectors and the plastic cannot withstand the temperature drop, try replacing them with Boshev ones.

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