How to lower a VAZ 2114 correctly
Message by tazmen72 » 07 Jul 2012, 14:33
I’ve been reading the forum for a long time, but I decided to register and ask for advice on undervaluation.
what we have: 2114 with standard suspension, r13 wheels, 175/75 tires
in the future I plan to change the wheels to white forged r15 with tires something like 195/50
you need to lower it without sawing the arches or shuffling your wheels against them.
Which struts with springs are best to buy? Or maybe it’s better to cut the drain, because I don’t need rigidity, but I need a beautiful fit? And is it really possible to do it yourself, is there a lot of hassle in replacing the struts, or should I go to a hundred?
Now I’ll try to find pictures of chepyreks on the Internet with a lowering that I like
Lowering a car (for example, lowering a VAZ ) is one of the most common areas of tuning a VAZ.
The most common solution for novice tuners is to take and cut off several coils of suspension springs. Some manage to do this without even removing the shock absorbers from the car. This approach to undervaluing a car is fundamentally wrong.
By cutting the spring, the support coil, which is made to contact the support cup, is lost. Due to its absence, the spring warps, it flies off the support cup, and the load is distributed unevenly. %product1_l% All this leads to incorrect operation of the spring and its further breakage. By reducing the height of a standard spring, you also increase its stiffness, while the stress in the metal increases and its service life decreases.
A suspension spring is only one element of a car's suspension. When lowering the vases, it is also necessary to select the necessary shock absorbers. There are many types of shock absorbers that are designed to lower a vehicle to suit specific suspension springs. This means that if you want to lower your VAZ by 50 mm, then you will need springs lowered by 50 mm and a set of shock absorbers with modified characteristics designed to lower them by 50 mm. These components cannot be used separately for the reason that the spring must be clamped between the upper and lower cups. If, for example, you decide to install springs with a 50 mm lowering on standard shock absorbers, then the length of the shock absorber rod will be too long, because it is designed for the height of the standard rod. %product2_r% For shock absorbers designed for lowering springs, the length of the rod has been changed to properly fix the spring. In addition, when using springs for large lowering, to reduce the load on the steering, the mounting points for the steering tips have been moved to the racks.
For proper operation of suspension tuning, it is necessary to use a complete suspension kit, which necessarily includes springs and shock absorbers made for them. Our online store offers several options for lowering a VAZ car. %product3_l% Lowering is possible from 20 to 90 mm. When lowered by more than 90 mm, normal suspension operation is almost impossible to achieve.
To ensure the longevity of your suspension, we recommend always using new rebound buffers and all shock rod boots. The support bearings of the front struts also play an important role. Good quality journal bearings can reduce steering force by up to 10%.
In our store you can buy ready-made suspension kits for lowering your car, or assemble them yourself.
What is car clearance
GOST interprets ground clearance, or ground clearance, as the distance from the road surface to the lowest point of the car. At first glance, everything is clear. But only for the first one. The lowest point may be a point on the bottom of the engine crankcase. Or crankcase protection, if there is one. Or the clutch housing. Or the exhaust system. Or the lower shock absorber strut brackets. How many cars there are, so many lower points and, accordingly, distances to the roadway.
You also need to take into account the load on the car when measuring ground clearance. The Russian standard requires measurements to be taken at full load, that is, with the maximum number of passengers, the trunk loaded and the fuel tank filled. In the documentation of many foreign cars, technical characteristics are indicated with only one driver in the cabin and without luggage.
And the manufacturer’s documentation often provides for the use of several tire options, the sizes of which differ from each other. At the same time, ground clearances are also different. For these reasons, the VAZ 2114 manufacturer’s documentation contains two ground clearance values:
- at the bottom point of the engine sump - 170 mm;
- at the lower point of the clutch housing - 160 mm.
The VAZ 2114, like most domestic models, has quite sufficient ground clearance by the standards of its class.
Answers (2)
It's quite simple. Topics such as how to lower or tune a VAZ 2113, 2114 or any other Russian car have long been known and a lot has been done and written. But nevertheless, you can give some recommendations and give ways on how to do this.
1) Wheels and tires. Choose those wheels that you like and that visually match the color and design of the car. But the most important thing is to comply with the standard parameters, in particular the bolt pattern, which in the VAZ 2113, like other Ladas, is 4X98, the approximate width is up to 6.0 J - otherwise the wheels will stick out, the offset is ET30-40 - if less, then the wheels can also stick out a lot or touch the arches or calipers. The centering hole - TsO 58.5 - if it doesn’t fit, it can be easily solved with spacer rings.
In general, there are a lot of rims for the R15 for the VAZ, and inexpensive ones, on average 2500 rubles per rim costs. Rubber is more expensive. For 15-inch wheels, you need to look for tires with parameters - 195/50 R15 - such summer tires - cost an average of 3,000 rubles. So calculate how much it will turn out: 10,000 rubles wheels + 12,0000 tires + 22,000 rubles. But you can, of course, find used options that will cost much less.
2) Let's move on to the second point, which is important - this is an underestimation. There are many ways to lower it, even to the point of carrying bags of cement in the trunk and in the back row of seats. But let's list the simplest ways:
1) Cut off a couple of turns from the spring. You can easily do such tuning yourself, or in any normal service - they will do such a service for you for 500-1000 rubles. The disadvantages of this method are that you will feel all the bumps very strongly, and stability will not improve
2) Replace the standard springs with sports, shortened ones, which themselves are stiffer, and at the same time, the car will be more stable when cornering and on a straight line. The cost of this approach will be on average 5000-6000 rubles + labor.
3) The most interesting way to lower vases or cans is to install air suspension. It’s expensive, around 20,000 rubles including work, but in your area, and just in the city, you will become the coolest guy thanks to the Vase with air suspension. You can adjust the ground clearance, etc.
As for tinting, everything is simple. You stop by any tinting shop and for 2000-2500 rubles they will tint your windows. I do not recommend tinting the windshield and front side windows, as this may result in a fine and removal of license plates. Oh, and by the way, recently it has become fashionable among fans of the Russian automobile industry not to tint the windows at all - to drive like in an aquarium.
Dimensions, body dimensions, available engines and configurations
Body | |
Width | 1620 mm |
Length | 4100 mm |
Height | 1415 mm |
Wheelbase | 2460 mm |
Front track | 1400 mm |
Trunk volume is minimal | 427 l |
Ground clearance | 165 mm |
Maximum trunk volume | 427 l |
Rear track | 1370 mm |
Curb weight | 970 kg |
Number of seats | 5 |
Engine | |
Number of valves per cylinder | 2 |
Cylinder arrangement | Row |
Cylinder diameter | 82 mm |
Piston stroke | 75 mm |
Number of cylinders | 4 |
engine's type | Petrol |
Intake type | Injector |
Maximum torque | 120 N*m |
Maximum power speed | up to 4,800 rpm |
Engine power | 77 hp |
Engine capacity | 1499 cm3 |
Maximum torque speed | 2700 rpm |
Transmission and control | |
Number of gears | 5 |
Gearbox type | Mechanics |
Drive unit | Front |
Turning diameter | 10.4 m |
Performance indicators | |
Maximum speed | 158 km/h |
Acceleration to 100 km/h | 13.2 sec |
Fuel consumption in the city per 100 km | 8.9 l |
Fuel consumption on the highway per 100 km | 5.7 l |
Combined fuel consumption per 100 km | 7.6 l |
Fuel tank volume | 43 l |
Power reserve | from 480 to 750 km |
Fuel brand | AI-92 |
Suspension and brakes | |
Front brakes | Disk |
Rear brakes | Drums |
Rear suspension | On trailing arms |
Front suspension | Shock absorber |
How to lower a VAZ 2114 with your own hands
Recently, there has been a tendency among young people to undervalue their cars. As they say: “A low pelvis is pleasing to the eye!” I’ll say right away that if you decide to lower your VAZ, you can do this in several ways, but the easiest and cheapest is to cut the springs. But, I want to warn you that on bumps it will not be very pleasant, due to the fact that all the impacts will go to the bump stops, the spring will not smooth them out much. If this doesn’t stop you, as in principle it doesn’t stop me, then this article is for you And this article is also for those who don’t like the fact that the back of the VAZ 2110 is much higher than the front. To level them, you can cut off just a couple of turns - this will not affect the behavior of the car.
Precautions when tuning the “fourteenth”
When increasing the ground clearance of the VAZ 2114, moderation should be observed. It is still possible to increase the clearance by 5 centimeters, but by 10 it is no longer worth it. The fact is that by carrying out such tuning, you make noticeable changes to the design of the car. This is due to the raising of the vehicle's center of gravity (CG).
The standard height of the CG of a car without tuning above the road surface is 56 cm. The weight of the car is about 50 kg. Calculations show that raising the car by 5 cm is similar to placing a load of approximately 40 kilograms on the roof of your “fourteenth”. So imagine that you are entering a turn at a speed of 90 km/h with a couple of heavy bags of potatoes on the roof rack. You will closely simulate the behavior of a car with increased ground clearance in a high-speed turn.
Lowering options
1. Buy a ready-made suspension kit. It includes: springs, struts, etc. This is the simplest, most convenient and expensive option, replacing almost the entire suspension at once. It will cost from 12,000+ rubles. This is the safest option, especially if you get quality parts and install everything correctly. If you choose this option, then do not forget about the wheel alignment.
2. The best option is to replace only springs with a smaller turn stroke. This will lower your car and add rigidity, without any harmful consequences for the car. You can also just buy a regular spring, but stiffer and lower. The range of prices is huge, but from about 3k rubles.
3. There is an option to move the spring cup down. But here you are playing the lottery, since it is very dangerous to do it yourself. - You may weld poorly - The stand is not guaranteed to be able to withstand high temperatures during welding. But don’t be discouraged, such racks are sold ready-made.
4. Cutting springs. Most people simply cut the coils off the spring. And this should not be done under any circumstances! In this case, the stroke of the rod decreases and when it gets into a hole, the strut does not have enough free play and it hits the body. Also, a sawn spring can become warped and it will also hit the body and spoil the suspension. Has proven itself to be excellent.
Let's look at the most common problems with the rear suspension using the VAZ 2107 as an example.
And so, if, while driving on an uneven road, you heard suspicious metallic sounds, or the information content of the brake pedal disappeared, or during emergency braking, the rear brakes stopped responding altogether, or a clear pull towards the car when braking was noticed... it is clear that problems have ripened in the rear suspension.
In order to understand the problem, you don’t have to be a genius or a top-notch mechanic. It is enough just to have minimal plumbing experience and have a certain amount of attentiveness.
It is also necessary to have a standard set of tools, which a handy car enthusiast probably has, namely:
- a set of open-end wrenches (from 8 to 32 millimeters);
- a set of spanners (size similar to the first item);
- set of heads with ratchet;
- screwdrivers (flat 2-3 pieces and figured)
- hammer;
- pliers;
- jack;
- anti-recoil shoes.
First of all, we inspect the shock absorbers.
Oil leakage or cracks in the protective cover are not acceptable. If a little is still found on at least one shock absorber, without regret we replace them in pairs. It’s easier with covers; they can be replaced one at a time.
Next, we subject the torque rod bushings to defect detection.
To do this, use a pry bar to press out each eye of the rod. Ideally, our efforts should lead to nothing, but if any of the bushings give way and a gap forms, then, unfortunately, we change the entire set.
We pay no less attention to the brake force regulator (the so-called “sorcerer”). It takes its name from the fact that most car enthusiasts have no idea what kind of unit is located next to the resonator and if brake fluid leaks from it, they simply turn it off
In fact, everything is simple. This is a regular bypass valve, which, depending on the load of the machine, redistributes the braking force between the front and rear axles. And by turning off its brake pipes, you run the risk of not being able to brake in time on a heavily loaded car.
It takes its name from the fact that most car enthusiasts have no idea what kind of unit is located next to the resonator and if brake fluid leaks from it, they simply turn it off. In fact, everything is simple. This is a regular bypass valve, which, depending on the load of the machine, redistributes the braking force between the front and rear axles. And by turning off its brake pipes, you run the risk of not being able to brake in time on a heavily loaded car.
How to lower a VAZ 2114 correctly
Post by tazmen72 » 07 Jul 2012, 14:33
I've been reading the forum for a long time, but I decided to register and ask for advice on undervaluation.
what we have: 2114 with standard suspension, r13 wheels, 175/75 tires
in the future I plan to change the wheels to white forged r15 with tires something like 195/50
you need to lower it without sawing the arches or shuffling your wheels against them.
Which struts with springs are best to buy? Or maybe it’s better to cut the drain, because I don’t need rigidity, but I need a beautiful fit? And is it really possible to do it yourself, is there a lot of hassle in replacing the struts, or should I go to a hundred?
Now I’ll try to find pictures of chepyreks on the Internet with a lowering that I like
Lowering a car (for example, lowering a VAZ ) is one of the most common areas of tuning a VAZ.
The most common solution for novice tuners is to take and cut off several coils of suspension springs. Some manage to do this without even removing the shock absorbers from the car. This approach to undervaluing a car is fundamentally wrong.
By cutting the spring, the support coil, which is made to contact the support cup, is lost. Due to its absence, the spring warps, it flies off the support cup, and the load is distributed unevenly. %product1_l% All this leads to incorrect operation of the spring and its further breakage. By reducing the height of a standard spring, you also increase its stiffness, while the stress in the metal increases and its service life decreases.
A suspension spring is only one element of a car's suspension. When lowering the vases, it is also necessary to select the necessary shock absorbers. There are many types of shock absorbers that are designed to lower a vehicle to suit specific suspension springs. This means that if you want to lower your VAZ by 50 mm, then you will need springs lowered by 50 mm and a set of shock absorbers with modified characteristics designed to lower them by 50 mm. These components cannot be used separately for the reason that the spring must be clamped between the upper and lower cups. If, for example, you decide to install springs with a 50 mm lowering on standard shock absorbers, then the length of the shock absorber rod will be too long, because it is designed for the height of the standard rod. %product2_r% For shock absorbers designed for lowering springs, the length of the rod has been changed to properly fix the spring. In addition, when using springs for large lowering, to reduce the load on the steering, the mounting points for the steering tips have been moved to the racks.
For proper operation of suspension tuning, it is necessary to use a complete suspension kit, which necessarily includes springs and shock absorbers made for them. Our online store offers several options for lowering a VAZ car. %product3_l% Lowering is possible from 20 to 90 mm. When lowered by more than 90 mm, normal suspension operation is almost impossible to achieve.
To ensure the longevity of your suspension, we recommend always using new rebound buffers and all shock rod boots. The support bearings of the front struts also play an important role. Good quality journal bearings can reduce steering force by up to 10%.
In our store you can buy ready-made suspension kits for lowering your car, or assemble them yourself.
Choice depending on manufacturer
Often, when components break down, people try to buy original, factory-made replacement ones, not wanting to try something new. But you can find decent products from other manufacturers; there are springs that are far from worse than the original ones.
List of the most popular manufacturers:
- Sirius. An experienced manufacturer with a huge range of products and the ability to individually order components according to customer drawings.
Having studied all the manufacturers, you can make your own choice and understand which rear springs are best installed on the VAZ 2114.
Answers (2)
It's quite simple. Topics such as how to lower or tune a VAZ 2113, 2114 or any other Russian car have long been known and a lot has been done and written. But nevertheless, you can give some recommendations and give ways on how to do this.
1) Wheels and tires. Choose those wheels that you like and that visually match the color and design of the car. But the most important thing is to comply with the standard parameters, in particular the bolt pattern, which in the VAZ 2113, like other Ladas, is 4X98, the approximate width is up to 6.0 J - otherwise the wheels will stick out, the offset is ET30-40 - if less, then the wheels can also stick out a lot or touch the arches or calipers. The centering hole - TsO 58.5 - if it doesn’t fit, it can be easily solved with spacer rings.
In general, there are a lot of rims for the R15 for the VAZ, and inexpensive ones, on average 2500 rubles per rim costs. Rubber is more expensive. For 15-inch wheels, you need to look for tires with parameters - 195/50 R15 - such summer tires - cost an average of 3,000 rubles. So calculate how much it will turn out: 10,000 rubles wheels + 12,0000 tires + 22,000 rubles. But you can, of course, find used options that will cost much less.
2) Let's move on to the second point, which is important - this is an underestimation. There are many ways to lower it, even to the point of carrying bags of cement in the trunk and in the back row of seats. But let's list the simplest ways:
1) Cut off a couple of turns from the spring. You can easily do such tuning yourself, or in any normal service - they will do such a service for you for 500-1000 rubles. The disadvantages of this method are that you will feel all the bumps very strongly, and stability will not improve
2) Replace the standard springs with sports, shortened ones, which themselves are stiffer, and at the same time, the car will be more stable when cornering and on a straight line. The cost of this approach will be on average 5000-6000 rubles + labor.
3) The most interesting way to lower vases or cans is to install air suspension. It’s expensive, around 20,000 rubles including work, but in your area, and just in the city, you will become the coolest guy thanks to the Vase with air suspension. You can adjust the ground clearance, etc.
Other methods for increasing ground clearance
In addition to installing spacers, car enthusiasts know other methods to increase vehicle clearance:
- Increasing wheel size.
- Replacing shock absorbers and springs.
Increasing wheel size
To increase ground clearance, larger wheels are installed on the car. This is fraught with some problems:
- the speedometer will show the wrong speed because it is based on the number of wheel revolutions;
- wheels that are too large will cling to the fender liners and interfere with driving;
- For larger wheels, the diameter of the disc will change, which will lead to accelerated wear of the rubber.
Replacing shock absorbers and springs
You can increase the ground clearance by replacing the shock absorbers and springs with longer ones. This method has some disadvantages:
- the cost of parts is much higher, the cost of spacers;
- replacing these elements is a very complex and time-consuming task, and when contacting specialists, it is expensive;
- Changing such essential parts will void the warranty if the machine is new.
16-valve engine for the "seven"
The VAZ 2107 is equipped with an 8-valve power unit from the factory. Of course, one of the easiest tuning methods is to replace it with a 16-valve engine. Traditionally, the engine from the VAZ 2112 is chosen, since it is almost identical in size to the engine from the VAZ 2107 and meets all the requirements for power and efficiency.
Installation of a 16-valve engine on a “seven” is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- Prepare the motor for installation. To do this, you need to remove the flywheel and grind the crown from the inside. Turning is necessary so that the starter parts are more easily connected to the flywheel clutch. In addition to turning, you will need to replace the input shaft bearing with a bearing from 2112, otherwise the new engine simply will not fit into the seat.
Video: installation procedure
A 16-valve engine instead of an 8-valve is the best option for those drivers who want to feel quick feedback from their actions while driving, optimize engine power and the resource of the entire car as a whole.
Thus, any type of tuning of the VAZ 2107 engine can turn the car into a faster and more durable model. However, when performing any type of work, you must adhere to regulations and safety precautions; otherwise, it is better to contact experienced specialists.
Sources:
https://myautoblog.net/2017/10/klirens-vaz-2107-uvelichenie-dorozhnogo-prosveta-lada-2107-usilennymi-pruzhinami-prostavkami-video/ https://vipwash.ru/podveska/uvelichenie-klirensa https ://tuning-vaz.org/blog/tuning-vaz-2107/27303.html https://zen.yandex.ru/media/id/5d70df05028d6800acd3c7cd/5d9a5d7a433ecc00ade3b77b https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz /tyuning/tyuning-dvigatelya-vaz-2107.html