The first gear stopped engaging, or rather, it did engage, but from the second time or through the second. The rest of the gears worked fine - no changes. The search for the problem began, reading Drive 2 and forums, the thought of failure of the 1st gear synchronizer was creeping ever closer. Even the article numbers had already been found, and the thought of dropping off the box this coming weekend wanted to become a reality. By the way, the first synchronizer costs about 1 thousand rubles, the second one about 1.5 thousand, here are their articles, I just found them, let them be: 1ST GEAR SYNCHRONIZER RING MATIZ 1.0 96325017
2ND GEAR SYNCHRONIZER RING MATIZ 1.0
96325163
in case it comes in handy for some of the liter owners
Just the thought of removing the gearbox made me get to the gear selection mechanism (we reset the battery, platform, and of course the air vent) and we have this view:
along the way, soured, “positive” terminal
Here's a look, I had to buy simple brass ones for 130 rubles
So, in front of us is the gear selection mechanism, or rather the control of it, having turned it with our hands, it became clear that everything works and turns on... ... we exhale and rejoice, this is not a synchronizer and there is no need to remove the box (although there is nothing complicated there, but here’s putting it on place, this is a whole epic, taking into account that there is no “liter” of space there!
Further troubleshooting showed this:
there is no bushing, the shaft is worn out
her article was found: 96238218
GENERAL MOTORS Shift Bushing
and the repair price is 25 rubles)))
the shaft was welded and cleaned, the bushing was installed... ... everything works like new)))
On Matiz only second gear does not engage from neutral position
Hello. Only second gear does not engage from neutral. From first to second it turns on normally. What's happened? All other gears 1,3,4,5 and reverse engage perfectly
? Why do you need to turn on the second one? everything seems fine)
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The neutral position of the gearshift lever can also be while the car is moving, for example, when changing gears from up to down.
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so are you talking about the fact that when moving from third to second it doesn’t turn on well? so this is the norm. as well as from second to first. re-gassing solves the problem. these are the features of the box
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Alexey, drove 220,000 km, the second one engaged perfectly, like all other gears
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Alexander, wear and tear my friend... 220 is not youth anymore)
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Alexey, from 1 to 2 and 3 to 2 switching also occurs through neutral :)))))
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Fazyl, thanks Cap) and what is this - “Only second gear does not engage from the neutral position. From first to second it turns on normally."?)
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Fuck knows, my fingers switch on all the gears except the first one - it’s very difficult when from upshift to first.
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And for me, too, all of them are turned on with my fingers, except for ZX
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Look under the hood and the whole problem will be looking at you from the side of the box.
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I have the same problem with 4th gear from neutral, but immediately shifting from 3rd to 4th is perfect
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Why is it difficult to engage manual transmission gears?
manual gear shifting
- The most common problem is clutch failure. In such a situation, reverse gear turns on with a bang. This happens because the gear overlaps the tooth. Reverse speed is the only gear in the box that does not have synchronizers. For this reason, clutch failure is so obvious on it.
- The second reason is a defect in the mechanism responsible for selecting the gear. This breakdown occurs when the car is stationary and you try to shift into gear.
- The third is severe wear of the gearbox synchronizers. Mostly, breakdowns occur with those that are most often used. These are first, second and third gear. Severe wear of the synchronizers only appears when switching while driving.
With force, 2nd gear is engaged.
Hi all. There is such a problem with the effort of turning on the second gear when it is cold, it gets better after about 4-5 km. When the gearbox warms up, the second one turns on without problems, and at 4 thousand rpm. a couple of times the gear did not engage, a crunch and that’s it. You still squeeze the clutch and it turns on. Car Astra N 1.8 manual, mileage 1000 km. Before that I had Nexia, everything switched perfectly. What is this? Defective 2nd gear synchronizer? There are no problems with the rest of the gears, everything is easy and clear.
I have a similar problem only with the 3rd one. The crunching can happen when you rush or try to turn it on using force. Have you changed the oil in the box and what is your mileage?
vinnisan
Mileage 1200km. factory oil. Shitty gearbox, once it warms up everything is ok.
the problem is in the rocker, that is, in the fastening, I had the same thing, the second one stuck tightly, 500 rubles and everything was fixed
ZMarat
, exactly the same story.
Mileage – 2200 km. Today I went to the dealer (Favorit Motors). Useless. I arrived, naturally the car was warmed up, everything turned on. I left it for four hours, came back, and it turned on again. It got warmer in Moscow and the problem became masked. At minus five, especially at minus ten, I could only engage second gear through neutral. As it warmed up the situation improved. And now it turns on immediately, but still requires increased care, otherwise it may “crunch”. There are no complaints about the other gears, and damn, no complaints about switching from third to second. The whole question is only in switching from the first to the second. Tiratron
, I read it, but didn’t see any solutions.
Some people apparently gave up on this matter, others got a little extra mileage. So far I have the enthusiasm to bother and fix it, but I don’t know how. I had no problems with the Zafira with the same engine and mechanics. Therefore, no experience has been accumulated. ZAUR 05
, can you provide a little more details? What did you do with the scenes?
BigHunter
Please post if you fix this bug. I’m thinking that the slide needs to be adjusted (as soon as I can make the stenet dry). Can I also use synthetic oil in the gearbox?
ZMarat
, I’ll write back as soon as I figure it out. I’m planning the same procedure (adjusting the backstage), I can’t think of anything else yet. One thing I can’t understand is that if the rocker is poorly adjusted, what does the temperature have to do with it? Cold or hot, it should still work poorly. So it turns on much better in a warm car or when it’s warm outside. Well, let's see.
BigHunter
I’ll say more, on a warm car the 2nd speed goes up on its own, even if you turn the first one up to 4.5. I’m thinking about adjusting it myself and also changing the oil to Valvoline 75w-90. I poured this into myself in 2114, after the factory tale, at -30 after 5-7 minutes the gearbox switches as if at +30 and the second speed became easy to engage, although at first there were also problems when it was cold, it was difficult to engage. And most importantly, the gearbox has not become any noisier.
Same problem. I went to the officials. They said leave it, let it cool down overnight and check in the morning. Arrived the next day. They said they added a little oil and everything turned on fine, whether cold or hot (it was -20 outside). They gave me a WARM car and I went home happy))) In short, the next day when it cooled down everything was still the same. That's how I go
Go back to them. Let them at least try to adjust the slide. It shouldn't be like this. I haven’t asked anyone on asters, they say everything is ok. No problem.
The oil has nothing to do with it, but by changing the original oil you can catch even more headaches (even if you have GM approval, it’s not a fact that it will improve gear shifting, but it can easily shorten the service life of the gearbox). Don't touch the boxes, it will work, you'll get used to it. The officials will not do absolutely anything with it, they have a lot of tricks on how to make a working unit out of a non-working unit, so that the client can go home happy and then no longer bother them with his “far-fetched” problems, and changing the oil in a new box is also not an option. In basins, yes, if they pour g.o. from the factory, it makes sense to change it, I changed it myself when there was a basin, but this does not work in Opel.
Eugeniy_016
, well, what does it have to do with it? In general, I’m mentally ready to follow the advice “not to interfere with the machine’s operation.” Maybe I'll try to adjust the rocker. M.b. I'll bleed the clutch if I can. If it doesn’t help, then I’ll force myself to believe that this is how it should be. All the same, I don’t know what else can be done.
The design of the box, which is 30 years old or even more. We got it from Kadet, what do you want from it? To digest 125-140 hp. and didn't choke? The design is budget-friendly, this has been discussed more than once, but GM is not going to make changes to it, they should now bring their 6 mortars to perfection.
Eugeniy_016
, if this was my first Opel with an ancient transmission, I would have stopped paying attention a long time ago. Here is my story: Opel Cadet, Daewoo Nexia, Opel Astra G, Opel Zafira B, now Astra H. All with mechanics. The gearbox has never bothered me on any car. In general, I thought that the Opel could completely fall apart, but the box would remain. I drove Zafira for six last years, in winter and summer, every day. There is exactly the same 1.8 XER 140 l/s. And, in my opinion, exactly the same box. I don’t know for sure, I didn’t look into it. If it's different, or the drive is different, correct me. But if everything is the same on Zafira and Astra, then I know for sure that this ancient box can work better. I switched all gears with two fingers. There is one caveat: all previous cars, including the Zafira, were not assembled in Russia. The current one is the first one that Kaliningrad pickers climbed. And the box turns on worse. Hence the thoughts about adjustment. On the second Astra (sedan), the steering wheel was crooked (the wheel alignment was not adjusted). Why can’t the box be adjusted normally on this one? IMHO, the point is not in the design, or not only in the design. PS If anyone working in the services is ready to do it, write in a personal message. I’ll come and do it for money so I don’t have to climb it myself. I am geographically located in Moscow, North-West. It is only important that the OD, after this adjustment, cannot find fault and void the warranty. The car is new.
BigHunter
If the Zafira had an F17 gearbox, then the gear shift drive is absolutely the same. And I had a Nexia, I turned it up to 5-6 thousand rpm and everything switched) And after changing the oil, even in cold weather. And my brother’s Nexia has 325 thousand km of mileage and no one even thought about messing with the gearbox.
ZMarat
, I don’t know what kind of box the Zafira had. Tell me if anyone knows. Year of release: 2006, December. I only just learned this abbreviation F17 when I bought the new Astra. Before this there was no need.
This is my second Astra (more precisely, it was a Chevrolet Viva, the Astra G of our assembly), the switching is the same. If on Viva I exhausted the whole box trying to achieve clear switching, then I didn’t even bother doing anything, the result would be the same - nothing. I have 2 more friends who have three-door Asters, Bochum-built - the same garbage with gears that I have.
BigHunter
If you believe the repair book, the F17 gearbox is like on an Astra.
Eugeniy_016
I asked a friend who had a 3-door with 140 hp (and before that he had an Opel 3-door with 115 hp), plus other people on the street, stopped and asked, they said everything was fine. No problem. The Nexia has a 1 in 1 gearbox in appearance. I drove it at -30 and cranked it until the cutoff. everything was ok with the gears. From 2114 I easily left the traffic light. The engine I had was a Nexia A15MF with 90 horsepower. because firmware and there was no catalyst.
BigHunter
If you believe the repair book, the F17 gearbox is like on an Astra.
Eugeniy_016
I asked a friend who had a 3-door with 140 hp (and before that he had an Opel 3-door with 115 hp), plus other people on the street, stopped and asked, they said everything was fine. No problem. The Nexia has a 1 in 1 gearbox in appearance. I drove it at -30 and cranked it until the cutoff. everything was ok with the gears. From 2114 I easily left the traffic light. The engine I had was a Nexia A15MF with 90 horsepower. because firmware and there was no catalyst.
How are the gears engaged? Did adjusting the rocker help? PS: when my father is a pensioner, he drives mine without any problems and when I ask about the box he always says that these are my nitpicking. But when I drive his Polosedan, I like his gearbox better and the engine + gearbox combination seems more successful than on the Astra.
What's the result?
Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that if the reverse gear does not engage, it is not always necessary to remove and repair the gearbox. For cars with manual transmission, special attention should be paid to the clutch and rocker.
As for the automatic transmission, in this case the operation of the box is greatly influenced by the condition of the oil in the automatic transmission and its level, as well as the degree of contamination of the automatic transmission oil filters. A decrease in operating pressure can lead to malfunctions and the inability to engage the desired gear. It is also important to understand that the automatic transmission device contains a large number of electronic components, that is, the problem may not be “mechanical”, but directly related to the electronics.
As you can see, there are several main reasons why gears don’t engage well when hot. However, none of the above reasons can be indirect or secondary.
The vehicle owner must remember that all malfunctions associated with the operation of a manual transmission, if ignored, entail financial costs.
Normally, the inclusion of one or another gear is carried out in accordance with the speed limit of the vehicle. If you adhere to the rules for operating a vehicle's gearbox, you can avoid problems when first gear does not engage, first and reverse gears or first and second gears do not engage well, difficulty engaging first gear is observed, etc.
Read more: Engine jerking at idle, causes of malfunction
However, if problems arise, in some cases it is possible to achieve gear engagement by re-engaging, double-depressing the clutch, etc. Finally, we note that it is extremely undesirable to operate a vehicle with breakdowns or malfunctions of the gearbox, however, the methods of shifting gears described above can help you get to the nearest service station under your own power.
Gears are difficult to engage or speeds on a manual transmission do not engage: the main causes of the malfunction and possible problems.
Reasons for difficulty shifting gears with the engine running. Transmission oil and level in the gearbox, wear of synchronizers and gearbox gears, clutch.
Correct gear shifting in a car with a manual transmission: when to engage a particular gear on a manual transmission, working with the clutch pedal, errors.
The design and principle of operation of a manual gearbox. Types of mechanical boxes (double-shaft, three-shaft), features, differences
The automatic transmission does not change gears: the car does not move forward or backward, the automatic transmission does not switch to individual gears, reasons.
What is automatic transmission emergency mode? Why does the automatic transmission go into emergency mode: the reasons why the automatic transmission goes into emergency mode, diagnostics.
Second gear is difficult to engage - page 2 - chevrolet lacetti club
Hi all. I have Lanos 2005. mileage 124000
A month ago, a strange thing appeared with switching to second gear... In the morning, when the car is cold, Second gear turns on just fine... As soon as all the components heat up to operating temperature, second gear cannot be engaged at all, sometimes when shifting the throttle it turns on, but with great difficulty... I tried to tighten the clutch pedal rod, but it didn’t work. it helped... Tell me, who knows what the problem is, is the transmission ending...
PS All other gears turn on without problems at any temperature....
you need to adjust the gearbox drive, in 99% of cases it helps, although with such a mileage, it may be necessary to change the helicopter.
And where is this helicopter...
absolutely right, and this is a helicopter: https://www.autoprospect.ru/chevrolet/lanos...a-peredach.html
It sounds like nonsense but it helped after a month of suffering...
I temporarily stuffed a thick piece of cardboard between the rocker joint and the lever ring because there was a very huge gap there, the backlash of the rocker decreased and gear shifting became softer and the second one began to engage as it should... The problem is that the cardboard is constantly falling out of there, now I’ll think how reduce this gap...
I stuffed a thick piece of cardboard between the rocker joint and the lever ring since there was a very huge gap there
such a phenomenon occurs, the rubber ring dries out/wears out, as a result of which the relative position of the drive parts shifts in all three planes. The solutions are known: replace with the same ring, replace with a ring from Opel, it is harder and thicker, wrap electrical tape (2-3-4 layers, in place) or wire under the ring, I did it myself with electrical tape, then lubricate the ring and adjust the drive
But give me some advice, in some places my gears are not switching on clearly... especially 3rd, sometimes it fits like clockwork, and sometimes you have to aim (by touch, obviously) to get into the hole. and I also have it turned on, let’s say 2nd or 4th, when you’re driving, you touch the handle, press yourself and you feel that the handle fits into the groove about 1 cm more, although if you don’t press the car drives normally, but when it’s on. transmission there is 1cm of play all the way somewhere
What is the catalog number for this “helicopter”? I have it loose by about 1.5-2 cm..... in short, I need an order number, tell me, please?
oh, I found everything, thanks - no need anymore.
If it’s the second one that crashes, there is a way to fix it absolutely for nothing and without any problems. The peculiarity is in the Opel gearbox (reverse speed), especially for the reverse speed there are plastic “rails”, they limit the movement of the entire “stick-switch”, so if you lift the lever to change the reverse speed, and switch to the second, and if it it switches easily, which means the lever is simply limited by plastic “rails”, remove the box cover (in the cabin) and cut off the plastic nonsense with a shoe knife, preheating the hard plastic with a lighter, a couple of mm, until the handle begins to go into speed. Then use sandpaper to prevent the lever from being slowed down by the grooves. And voila the speed enters with ease. Put on the cover and enjoy an unusual and easy ride. PS In Russian cars there is no such hassle about the reverse gear, and when the box gets loose, and it gets loose anyway, it just becomes a loose box. On this car, these plastic “rails” hold back the manual gear selector lever. The moral is this: either change all the nonsense at once or don’t bother, but I don’t understand pedantic, careful drivers, iron is iron...
And the question is this: 1 and 2 began to stick in (pah-pah-pah) perfectly, but 5 doesn’t stick in at all, it feels like the lever can’t reach it at all. Trying to engage 5th, I end up in 3rd gear. Share your opinion, advice, experience.
Hello. I'll try it today. I could be wrong, but I think I did it the right way. I'll write back as soon as there is any result.
If you’re from Moscow, come and I’ll show you what and how!
Tell me, if there is a pin-type gearbox lock, is it possible to adjust the gearbox drive?
If the second one does not stick in, then you need to change it (the “helicopter” link) or remove it and replace only the worn part. I changed it at about 80-85 mileage, I completely changed the rocker (“helicopter”), maybe at 25 it’s too early for you, or the mileage is different. In the place where you circled in red, there seems to be a pin and it is wearing out, perhaps it just needs to be changed to remove the play.
The actual mileage is 25,000 km. The second sticks in.. but with difficulty. I lubricated everything. All connections both at the engine and in the cabin. It got much better. But sometimes the second one takes a bite and turns on with a crunch. Nothing is loose anywhere, but the rocker moves radially on the axis. I'm concerned about this backlash. Is this play a technological norm, or is it a reason for detailed troubleshooting of the scenes?
If the 2nd one does not stick in, you need to change the link, I changed it, the problem disappeared. Or just take it apart and look at the worn parts and replace them if possible. It's faster to change it all. I won’t say anything about lubrication, but when I removed it, the old one was not lubricated and I didn’t lubricate the new one with anything. And the point is, the place is open, dirt gets there, it will settle on the lubricant and then something will become clogged with dirt.
There is also such a problem (I already wrote about it before), many options were proposed - turning the clutch lever, clutch fork, synchronizers...
I found another option where the problem was solved by replacing the helicopter, second gear thrust
and gear forks + oil.
Since I have not yet resolved this issue, I hope that the last option will solve the problem, and, as far as I understand, the costs will not be critical.
By the way, does anyone know the codes for the (second) gear linkage and the gear shift fork (this is not a clutch fork, as I understand it)?
I also just had the drawstring rebuilt
I changed the helicopter, traction, gear shift fork, oil and small parts, everything became normal.
Codes:
96332660 helicopter 94580711 gearbox link rod 94535807 gearshift fork pin/pin 94530002 gearbox retaining ring 94580787 gearbox fork/gearbox linkage/yoke rod 90129204 clutch cylinder oil seal/thrust ring 96182212 bolt
96179241 (gearbox pan gasket, there are 10 holes and 11 holes, which one you can only find out during the process or at random, I took 10 - I guessed it; the same code for a gasket with 11 holes or not - I don’t know)
+ you may need a gearbox cover gasket (96298951), but mine was normal
+ oil in the box (I took 75W/90, I needed 1.8l)
Important addition
- be sure to look at the prices by code from both Daewoo and GM. The difference may be several thousand, although, in fact, the part is the same. I had Daewoo 90129204 and 96332660
you need to adjust the gearbox drive, in 99% of cases it helps, although with such a mileage, it may be necessary to change the helicopter.
I suspect that the gearbox drive adjustment is this: https://www.autoprospect.ru/chevrolet/lanos...j-peredach.html
And where is this helicopter...
absolutely right, and this is a helicopter: https://www.autoprospect.ru/chevrolet/lanos...a-peredach.html
Thank you, we will think, look, change...
such a phenomenon occurs, the rubber ring dries out/wears out, as a result of which the relative position of the drive parts shifts in all three planes. The solutions are known: replace with the same ring, replace with a ring from Opel, it is harder and thicker, wrap electrical tape (2-3-4 layers, in place) or wire under the ring, I did it myself with electrical tape, then lubricate the ring and adjust the drive
Thank you, you dispelled all my doubts... I thought that there was only one way out, constantly putting something in, but it turns out there are a lot of ways out...
It sounds like nonsense but it helped after a month of suffering...
I temporarily stuffed a thick piece of cardboard between the rocker joint and the lever ring because there was a very huge gap there, the backlash of the rocker decreased and gear shifting became softer and the second one began to engage as it should... The problem is that the cardboard is constantly falling out of there, now I’ll think how reduce this gap...
And where, more precisely, is this gap located? Where is the rocker joint and the lever ring? In the cabin or under the hood?
Trying to engage 5th, I end up in 3rd gear. Share your opinion, advice, experience.
You apparently paid little attention to point 4, there it is inconvenient to turn it by the cardan, you need to grab the upper link of the helicopter and turn it clockwise so that the rod goes into the adjustment hole.
4.Rotate the gear shift shaft so that the rod has a diameter of 5.0mm. (for example, the shank of a suitable drill inserted into the hole in cover 2 (see figure) fell into the installation hole of switch 4.
And only then fix the connection
You apparently paid little attention to point 4, there it is inconvenient to turn it by the cardan, you need to grab the upper link of the helicopter and turn it clockwise so that the rod goes into the adjustment hole. And only then fix the connection
Why does the drill go 3 centimeters into the hole under the plug in any gear? As I understand it, it should only go deep enough in neutral? Or should there be a difference of literally 5 millimeters between the neutral position and any gear?
Why does the drill go 3 centimeters into the hole under the plug in any gear? As I understand it, it should only go deep enough in neutral.” Or there should be a difference of literally 5 millimeters between the neutral position and any gear.”
In general, there is an internal gear shift lever like (16) inside behind the hole (or not 16, I don’t remember exactly, but I remember a shaft with a hole) in which there is already a hole for alignment with the outer hole with a plug, when they are combined then the norm:
I did it - I stuck the drill and poked around behind the scenes until I got into this recess in the inner shaft.
Common problems with reverse gear of automatic transmission
There are the following problems with reverse gear on automatic transmissions:
- All forward gears function, but the reverse gear of the automatic transmission does not work. This may be due to wear of the friction layer on the brake band, a malfunction of the piston rod, or cuff. The problem can only be eliminated by replacing the broken part.
- The automatic transmission has lost reverse speed, and the car only moves forward at speeds 1 and 2. As a rule, the main reason lies in the wear of the clutch disks, which require complete replacement.
- When it's cold it works fine, but when it's warm it slips. The reason for this is similar to the previous one - wear of the friction discs, the replacement of which solves problems with the reverse gear of the automatic transmission.
- Reverse gears and all front gears do not engage due to breakdowns of the torque converter, insufficient oil volume, and heavily contaminated filters. To fix the problem, you need to add or change the oil and clean the filters.
- You engage reverse gear, and the car stands still, there is movement only in 1st gear. The splines of the drive drum, which must be replaced, may be cut off.
If the reverse gear of the automatic transmission has disappeared, you should not immediately disassemble the box. In this case, you must first open the manual, which can tell you why the automatic transmission does not engage reverse gear. But the best way out of the situation if there is no reverse gear is to contact qualified specialists of our service center.
