Does sunflower oil burn or not? Does engine oil burn?

Does Lukoil, Mobile oil burn?

How do oils produced by different manufacturers react to fire? The most common oils are Lukoil or Mobile. In order for the motor to function effectively, you need to pay well. After all, these oils have the appropriate quality.

When using Lukoil oil, an elastic film is created on the engine, which is necessary for reliable protection against wear, regardless of the conditions under which the engine operates. Friction is reduced and engine performance is increased, fuel is saved and noise is reduced. The engine can be started easily even at low temperatures, protecting its parts from wear and preventing low-temperature deposits from appearing on the engine. The quality offered by the manufacturer eliminates the possibility of oil burning in the engine.

But oil fires occur in the engine for some reason, and it doesn’t matter what brand of oil is used. This can occur if a compound that is not suitable in its properties is poured into the engine. If the oil has a very low viscosity, it will stop and burn. High viscosity will cause a thick film to form on the inner wall of the motor. As a result of both cases, a lot of oil composition will be consumed.

This defect can be eliminated if you use suitable engine oil. The motorist will be surprised by the reduction in consumption of the motor product. But, in any case, you need to choose a composition that has high viscosity.

You can use synthetic oil all the time to switch to a semi-synthetic composition. The engine will not suffer from this in any way, only if the semi-synthetic parameters do not contradict the instructions of the automakers.

Reasons for oil consumption

Leading specialists from various companies, such as Castrol, identify a whole system of reasons due to which increased consumption occurs or the oil level in the engine decreases. All this directly affects the operation of the engine, and lubricant consumption is the only parameter that the motorist himself can evaluate. It will be enough for him to take the measurement himself, using a probe specially designed for this.

Quality

Oil consumption mainly depends on its quality. And experts in this field advise assessing the quality of a lubricant by its ability to neutralize acidic elements formed from fuel combustion. Also of no small importance is the anti-corrosion activity of the lubricant and how successfully the motor oil performs its main functions, which include the ability to wash and disperse various components. But the most important thing is the quality assessment, which allows you to determine how much it minimizes and prevents wear and tear on engine parts.

Waste expense

An important topic that deserves consideration is the topic of oil consumption due to waste. In other words, this term means the direct entry of oil into the combustion chamber and its subsequent combustion simultaneously with the fuel. And you should know that in every internal combustion engine, during operation, partial consumption of this lubricant occurs, and this is due to the operation of the unit and the specifics of the device.

Let's take the following example. In the cylinder-piston group, the lubricant serves to directly reduce friction between moving surfaces. The oil also acts as a coolant for the parts and ensures a proper seal between them. It is applied to the surface of the cylinder and piston rings, and during the power stroke, the oil scraper rings remove its excess. They leave a thin oil film, which, along with gasoline or other fuel, burns out in each cycle of operation of the car engine.

Engine oil waste itself can be easy to diagnose. It produces bluish smoke in the exhaust, which is not observed when burning gasoline (of course, high-quality gasoline). But this should not be confused with black smoke, which means the injection is not working properly. Another symptom of its combustion is an oily black edge that forms on the edges of the exhaust pipe.

It is much more difficult to understand the cause of oil waste. This cannot be done without opening the engine, although there are a number of relatively simple and inexpensive methods of dealing with waste.

First of all, you will need to determine how much oil should burn in the engine. In other words, what lubricant consumption is intended for a particular engine.

The second is the knowledge that the amount of burned oil depends on the operating mode of the car engine. That is, if the driver often uses high speeds when driving, then much more oil will burn in this engine. This, in fact, is an ordinary law of physics - the higher the speed, the higher the temperature of the oil and engine becomes.

As for the consumption rate in this case, it is taken into account in the specifications of a particular car production. And each specific modification of the engine is necessarily reflected in the documentation for the car.

Does Castrol oil burn? Shell Helix?

When the oil seals wear out, there is a significant increase in oil consumption. The seals need to be replaced. It is not necessary to remove the cylinder head for this. After this, the oil will not burn. The seals on the valves begin to wear out due to the use of inappropriate motor oil, which is not suitable for rubber, and temperature changes.

When the internal surfaces in the cylinders and internal parts in the engine become damaged or worn out, the oil also begins to burn quickly. The driver learns about the appearance of this disease when extraneous sounds appear when the engine is running. This happens when dirt, dust gets into the engine, due to untimely replacement of the filter, oil, low-quality oil, or the use of a foreign additive.

This defect can be eliminated if you start using viscous oil and change the seals on the valves. There may not be any significant changes from a major overhaul.

Using oils produced by companies such as Castrol, Shell Helix, Motul, fire can be judged based on the quality of the oil. A product produced in accordance with GOST will not burn.

When the operation of the turbine is not disrupted, oil enters from the ventilation crankcase under high crankcase gas pressure. This usually occurs in a worn out engine. The problem can be solved by repairing or replacing worn parts. Turbine malfunction can be easily diagnosed.

Yellow lamp

It should be noted that the car has two oil indicator lights. One - yellow - signals a decrease in its level by about a liter. And the second - red - notifies the driver of a sharp drop in pressure in the system. Both bulbs are “tied” to different sensors and work independently of each other. Let's consider their purpose in more detail.

During operation, the car consumes not only fuel, but also oil. Its level gradually decreases depending on the design of the engine and the driver’s driving style. There is a natural loss of lubricating fluid in the cylinders. The oil evaporates and goes through the exhaust manifold into the atmosphere.

For turbocharged engines, higher oil consumption is allowed. During active driving, it consumes approximately 1 liter per thousand kilometers. If you move calmly, without active acceleration, the yellow light will light up after about 5 thousand km.

Car manufacturers do not prohibit driving with a yellow lamp. The oil pump, in principle, provides the required lubricant pressure, its circulation does not stop, and the rubbing mechanisms are protected. However, it is strongly recommended not to delay refilling and to quickly replenish the oil level.

If you do not pay attention to the equipment and do not replenish the oil deficiency, then after a critical decrease, problems may begin with the pump and, as a consequence, with the engine itself. If the oil level drops by another half liter, so-called oil starvation may begin, which is dangerous for the engine. Therefore, after the yellow oil light on the dashboard lights up, you can drive about 100-200 km before heading to the store.

Does oil burn in a fire and the reasons for its combustion?

It turns out that often the oil begins to burn in the engine not only because of the quality of the oil used, but also for other reasons. Machine oils have different compositions. Worn piston oil rings also lead to loss of oil. It is necessary to replace the rings if the engine does not have to be completely repaired.

If the car has been idle for a long time, you can “decarbonize” the rings. This is done in the usual way. The driver drives along the highway. You have to drive a long way to get the revs up to the red zone of the tachometer. It is possible to use special chemicals used for spark plug holes. Just first you need to make sure that it is safe.

You need to use high-tech samples, and not cheap copies from a well-known brand. If there are no defects in the car and good original oil from a reputable manufacturer is used, then the oil cannot burn. Good oil will extinguish any fire. To avoid falling into the trap of a supplier of cheap oils, you need to contact specialized stores to buy oil for your car.

Oil seals

The next problem is the seals. Typically, the cause of high oil consumption in the engine is the crankshaft and camshaft seals. Identifying this reason is not easy. It all depends on the design of the engine. Typically, this leak leaves stains under the car or smudges are visible on the engine housing and its components.

It is also worth paying attention to the rear crankshaft oil seal, where the crankshaft enters the gearbox.

The next things to look at are the oil pan gaskets and the oil filter gasket. The cases are rare but do occur.

Video: does engine oil burn?

Chocolate

- This is a favorite delicacy not only for children, but also for adults, since this product has excellent taste, improves people’s mood and intellectual abilities, and also produces the “happiness hormone” - serotonin. Many people wonder whether real chocolate burns and why a chocolate bar burns. To accurately answer these questions, you must first study the composition of natural dark chocolate.

What is chocolate made of?

First of all, it should be noted that such a product consists of more than 50% oil, which is flammable. From this you can understand why chocolate, which consists of grated cocoa beans and cocoa butter, burns.

sulfur;
phosphorus;
potassium;
magnesium;
iron and copper.

theobromine;
tannins and aromatic substances;
antioxidants;
caffeine;
saturated fatty acids
.

Does real chocolate burn?

A video is gaining popularity on the Internet in which a woman opens a pack of dark chocolate and sets it on fire with matches. When heated, the chocolate should initially melt, but instead, in the video you can see how the chocolate begins to burn.

The question arises: should real chocolate burn?

If the treat begins to burn, this indicates a substitution of grated cocoa, instead of which the manufacturer added cocoa powder. This product is the cake remaining after squeezing cocoa beans that are completely devoid of oil. It is of low quality. If it is written on the wrapper of the product that not grated cocoa, but powder was used to prepare it, then this is a fake. Instead of cocoa butter, manufacturers often use vegetable fats, protein and soy additives. To check the authenticity of the product and find out whether natural chocolate burns, you need to look at the shelf life. The natural product is stored for no more than 6-8 months.

By what criteria can you determine the authenticity of a product?

the product must be made only from cocoa butter and grated cocoa beans (no powders or protein additives);
shelf life no more than 6-8 months;
a real chocolate product should melt in your mouth and not smear on your hands;
a genuine product of confectionery art has a shiny and smooth surface;
When breaking the tile, you should hear a crunching sound.

High oil consumption

Video about why a car may have increased oil consumption:

What is a high expense? Let's try to answer the question: is a liter of oil per 1000 kilometers a lot or a little? The answer is simple and individual. While this is the norm for V6 or V8 engines, the engine of in-line small cars should not consume so much lubricant. As mentioned above, it all depends on the specific engine. And do not forget that any engine, even the newest one, will take away this same oil. He works on it, and it shouldn’t be any other way.

Interestingly, experienced drivers recommend simply adding oil to a fairly worn engine rather than making major repairs. This does not always help, and as mentioned above, there are many reasons for high fuel consumption.

The following factors can also affect lubricant consumption:

as the condition of the gaps in the cylinder-piston group (often this factor is associated with natural wear of parts, leading to greater oil consumption);
crankcase pressure;
correct adjustment and settings of the engine;
violation of tightness at connection points (meaning those points that have either rubber hoses or seals);
driving style;
correct selection of oil in accordance with a specific engine;
oil quality;
compliance with replacement deadlines and much more.

Oil leak

What should a driver do if he discovers a leak? It would seem that every experienced motorist knows the answer to this question: you need to change gaskets, seals, and the like. And oil can leak from the engine in the following places: from the valve cover gasket, from the cylinder head gasket, from the crankshaft and camshaft seals, from the rear crankshaft oil seal and the gasket located under the oil filter.

Valve cover gasket

If oil is leaking from the valve cover gasket located on top of the engine, lubricant leaks will be clearly visible on the outer side walls of the unit. A lot of oil cannot leak through this very gasket, but you still need to take care of the tightness.

Cylinder head gasket

If oil is leaking from the head gasket, also located on top of the engine, it will leak out. You should know that on V-shaped engines there are two of them, as well as, strictly speaking, cylinder heads.

Cylinder head gasket on cylinder block

Gaskets can be damaged in various places, but oil can also leak into the cooling system if the part of the gasket that is located between the cooling system holes and the working cylinders is punctured. And in this case, the engine itself may appear dry, and oil leaks will be more difficult to detect. But you can identify this problem by the coolant, which becomes cloudy and changes color. And the oil in the engine will even begin to foam and this same foam can be seen on the inner surface of the neck cap through which lubricant is poured into the engine.

Problems with the cylinder head gasket are resolved immediately, without waiting a second, since all this can lead to damage to the engine itself.

Oil seals

Opening the hood, such a leak will not be easy to notice. But stains on the inner surface of the crankcase protection and smudges from below may indicate a problem. And this leak, like the one described above, should be removed immediately.

Unscrew the oil filter

Oil pan gasket

It can only be seen by using a jack and removing the protection. And at the next oil change, it would be useful to check for such a problem.

Rear crankshaft oil seal

It is located directly at the crankshaft entrance to the gearbox and in most cases must be replaced by removing the gearbox. It is impossible to see him differently. Although a leak can be diagnosed by smudges found in the lower part of the engine.

What to do if there is an oil fire on the stove.

Assess the extent of the fire.

If the fire is still small and has not spread beyond the pan, you can safely put it out yourself. If the fire has already begun to spread through the kitchen, quickly inform your family and leave the building, informing your neighbors about the fire along the way. Call the fire department immediately. You shouldn't put your own life in danger trying to save your kitchen.

Turn off the heat on the stove.

This must be done first - the oil requires heating to burn. Don't try to move the pan, leave it in place. Because you may accidentally splash burning oil on yourself or surrounding objects. If conditions allow and you have time, put an oven mitt on your hand, this will protect against burns.

Cover the fire with a metal lid.

Fire needs oxygen to continue burning, so covering it with a metal lid will essentially suffocate the flame. Carefully, moving away from you, place a metal lid or baking sheet on top of the fire. Do not use glass lids; they may break if exposed to fire. Also avoid using ceramic lids or plates for this purpose. They may explode and fly into dangerous pieces.

Sprinkle baking soda on small fires.

Regular baking soda will work on small fires, but it won't work as effectively on larger fires. You'll need a lot of baking soda to get the job done, so grab the whole box and sprinkle it generously on the fire until it goes out. Fine salt will also work. If you have salt on hand, use it instead of soda. Do not use powdered milk, starch, flour or anything other than baking soda or salt.

Use a powder fire extinguisher.

If you have a Class B dry powder fire extinguisher (liquid fires), it will do an excellent job of extinguishing oil fires. But since the powder will stain your kitchen and be difficult to clean, use it only as a last resort. However, if this is your last line of defense before the fire gets out of control, don't hesitate!

What not to do if there is an oil fire

Do not extinguish oil fires with water.

This is the number one mistake many people make when dealing with an oil fire. Water and oil do not mix; water coming into contact with burning oil will cause steam to form, causing the fire to spread more.

Don't try to put out the flame.

Do not knock out the flame with a towel, apron or any other fabric. This will ignite the flame and spread the fire. The fabric itself can absorb the oil and also catch fire. Also, do not cover the fire with a damp towel to cut off oxygen access.

Don't fill the fire with flour.

Flour, starch and milk powder may be similar to baking soda, but they will not have the same effect. Only baking soda and salt are safe and effective for extinguishing oil fires.

Do not move or attempt to remove a burning pan.

This is another common mistake people make, and in an emergency it may seem logical. However, moving a burning pan may result in oil spillage, which could ignite your clothing or any other objects it touches.

Fire prevention

Never leave oil on the stove unattended.

Unfortunately, most kitchen fires happen when someone walks away for just a minute. However, a fire can occur in less than 30 seconds. Do not turn your back to hot oil or move away from the stove when cooking with oil.

Heat oil in a heavy frying pan or saucepan with a metal lid.

Heating the oil under the lid will contain flying splashes and reduce the supply of oxygen inside. The oil, of course, can catch fire under the lid if it is overheated too much, but this is much less likely.

Keep baking soda, salt and a baking sheet on hand.

Get in the habit of keeping these items within easy reach when you cook with oil. If a fire breaks out, you have at least three different options to stop the fire immediately.

Use a thermometer.

Clip a food thermometer into the pan to monitor the temperature of the oil. Find out the flash point of the oil you are using, then use a thermometer to monitor the temperature as you cook. If the temperature approaches the flash point, turn off the heat.

Watch for smoke and odor.

If you notice smoky smoke or smell something acridly burning while you're cooking with oil, immediately turn off the heat or remove the pan burner. The oil does not ignite immediately after the smoke appears, but this is a sure sign that the oil temperature is approaching the ignition point.

Watch the video: “What to do if the oil catches fire on the stove”

Today we will talk about carcinogens in foods fried in oil.

Carcinogens

- chemical substances, the impact of which on the human or animal body increases the likelihood of malignant neoplasms (tumors) or leads to them.

Toxic, carcinogenic and simply harmful substances in oils are formed in two cases:

When heating oils to the smoking point
and above;
When oils become rancid.

Smoke point of vegetable fats and oils

"Smoke point"

- this is the temperature at which the oil begins to smoke in the frying pan, from this moment reactions are started in it to form toxic and carcinogenic substances.
Each type of oil has its own smoke point. In general, all oils are divided into oils with a high smoke point
and with
a low smoke point
.

Oils with a high smoke point are recommended for frying, including deep frying. The refining process increases the smoke point. Oils with a low smoke point are strictly not recommended for frying. I will give the smoke points of some oils.

High smoke point oils:

Peanut – 230°C
Grape seed - 216°C
Mustard – 254°C
Refined
corn – 232°C
Sesame – 230°C
Olive extra virgin
-191°C
Olive – up to 190°C
Palm – 232°C
Refined
sunflower – 232°C
Refined rapeseed – 240°C
Rice – 220°C
Refined
soybean – 232°C
Hazelnut oil – 221°C

Low smoke point oils and fats:

Walnut oil – 150°C
Flaxseed – 107°C
Unrefined
sunflower – 107°С
Pork fat – 180°C
Creamy – 160°C

Standard electric stoves usually provide a heating temperature of no more than 300°C, gas stoves - much higher. There is evidence that a cast iron frying pan can heat up to 600°C on gas stoves! Now it becomes clear why it is so easy to exceed the smoke point of oil.

Toxic substances formed when oils are heated or rancid and ways to avoid their formation

Let's take a closer look at the substances that are formed when oils are overheated or become rancid.

Acrolein

- acrylic acid aldehyde, belonging to the group of tear toxic substances. Due to its high reactivity, acrolein is a toxic compound that is highly irritating to the mucous membranes of the eyes and respiratory tract. Acrolein is one of the products of the thermal decomposition of glycerol and glyceride fats. The process of acrolein formation begins immediately when the oil reaches its smoke point, that is, at the beginning of oil combustion. I think everyone’s eyes stung when the oil burned; in such cases they also say “there’s a crap in the kitchen” - it’s acrolein. Therefore, NEVER heat oils to a smoking point!

Acrylamide

-acrylic acid amide. Toxic, affects the nervous system, liver and kidneys, irritates mucous membranes. In fried or baked foods and baked goods, acrylamide can be formed in the reaction between asparagine and sugars (fructose, glucose, etc.) at temperatures above 120°C. Simply put, acrylamide is formed in the fried crust of starchy foods, for example, potatoes, donuts, pies, which have been fried for a long time or at high temperatures in vegetable oil. Acrylamide is formed especially actively during deep frying for a long time. Some unscrupulous manufacturers of fried foods, in order to save money, use the same oil several times, continuing to fry more and more new portions of products in it. In this case, poison will inevitably form. Therefore, I strongly recommend not to fry at high temperatures for a long time and avoid deep frying.

Free radicals and fatty acid polymers, as well as heterocyclic amines

— are actively formed in smoke and combustion products. Amines are very toxic substances. Both inhalation of their vapors and contact with skin are dangerous.

Polycyclic substances with high carbon content

(coronaene, chrysene, benzpyrene, etc.) - are strong chemical carcinogens and are also formed in smoke and burning products. For example, benzopyrene is a chemical carcinogen of the first class of hazard. Formed when products burn: cereals, fats, found in smoked products, “smoky” products, present in smoke, substances obtained by burning resins. EU Commission Regulation No. 1881/2006 of 12/19/06 determines that vegetable oils and fats must contain less than 2 mcg of benzopyrene per 1 kg; in smoked products up to 5 mcg/kg; in cereals, including baby food, up to 1 mcg/kg. Attention! In some cases, for example, overcooked meat cooked on a charcoal barbecue can contain up to 62.6 mcg/kg of benzopyrene!!!

When oils go rancid, predominantly aldehydes, epoxides and ketones are formed.

. By interacting with oxygen in the air when exposed to light and heat, the oil changes its taste and smell. Fats in which saturated fatty acids predominate are characterized by the formation of ketones (ketone rancidity); fats with a high content of unsaturated acids are characterized by aldehyde rancidity.

Ketones

- toxic. They have an irritating and local effect and penetrate the body through the skin. Some substances have carcinogenic and mutagenic effects.

Aldehydes

- toxic. Capable of accumulating in the body. In addition to general toxicity, they have irritant and neurotoxic effects. Some have carcinogenic properties.

Therefore, friends, if you cannot completely eliminate fried foods from your diet, please fry them correctly, relying on this article and follow the simple tips below:

Do not bring the oil to its smoking point;
Avoid prolonged frying in oil, such as deep frying. If you do fry, do not use the same portion of oil more than once;
Don't overcook foods. Remember that burnt foods contain toxic substances and carcinogens;
For frying, choose only refined oils and fats with a high smoke point;
Store oils according to label directions and do not eat rancid oils.

More articles on the topic of vegetable oils:

Auto parts and service stations

Which oils should you not buy: Do not take oils with specifications ACEA C3, LowSAPS, LS - these are extremely undesirable oils with a reduced content of sulfated ash (low ash oils), phosphorus and sulfur, which are responsible for neutralizing acids, cleaning and retaining carbon deposits. Roughly speaking, these are oils with a package of detergent additives reduced by a third. All for the sake of a few percent of the environment and the safety of delicate Euro 4-5 neutralizers. Although the effect of oil on the converter is minimal, the rings that have shriveled from sludge and allow oil to enter the cylinders will finish off the converter much faster. And the rings will shrink precisely from coking due to the special C3 oil, which is less tolerant of harsh conditions and poor fuel, in a word, has a smaller margin of safety for cleaning. Meanwhile, the main reason for the “death” of motors is not wear. Read the Autoreview test “Tricks with Oil”, where 10 Ford Focuses drove 10,000 km at 6000 rpm and none received increased wear on the rings, the chromium content in the test was zero (chrome is part of the rings). But if the engine gets dirty, then the sludge interferes with the decompression of the rings and they “sit down” (become smaller than the diameter of the cylinder and seem to dangle), then the shriveled rings begin to leak oil into the cylinder more strongly, and fuel from the cylinder into the oil, further worsening the process of contamination and damage oil, worn rings cause uneven distribution of pressure on the walls and wear of the cylinder in an ellipse (oval), as well as a more rigid shifting of the piston at the extreme points, often with the piston skirt touching the cylinder. This is where the increased wear begins. In short, a healthy engine is a clean engine. With ideal fuel and dust-free air, C3 oils are acceptable, but in Russia these conditions are not the best. By the way, low-ash oils are not recommended by BMW for use outside the European Community - that says it all.

Here it’s worth remembering Castrol and the rumors that it gets very dirty inside the engine - this is because Castrol was the first to actively import C3 oils to the Russian market. At that time, there was no high-quality fuel in Russia, and the highly advertised Magnatec most often had ACEA A3/B3/C3 approvals... The result is known to everyone - many complaints about engine coking from Castrol with terrifying photos. Now in Russia the situation with fuel is quite good (except for non-branded gas stations), crazy gas stations sell high-quality Euro 4/5 class fuel, which during combustion produces a minimum of sludge and spoils the oil less (yes, fuel gets into the oil, along with dirt , in the same way as oil enters the combustion chamber - especially during warming up, when thermal clearances have not yet been selected). Therefore, if you need the best engine cleaning, then it is better not to buy C3 oil. By the way, the main reason for the aging and death of motors is pollution. Coked rings do not open up and shrink, as a result they do not remove oil from the walls well, it gets into the chamber and burns, the valves, the bottom of the piston and the rings themselves become contaminated with the products of oil combustion, over time the piston begins to dangle or shift excessively at the extreme points, which leads to wear ellipse. And carbon deposits on the bottom of the piston lead to increased detonation.

Choosing the type of oil: Synthetics always leave the engine cleaner due to the greater survivability of the base and a more advanced additive package. That is why I did not consider or pour anything other than synthetics. The oil seals have been in service for 10 years, and the oil consumption is zero. You can evaluate the ideal cleanliness of the engine: video (YouTube).

Myths and misconceptions: 1. “Semi-synthetics are thicker than synthetics” is a misconception. If you take two 5W-40 oils, one of which is synthetic and the other mineral (there is no such mineral water, but we will dream up), then at engine operating temperatures their viscosity will be the same: the number after the letter W is responsible for it! Moreover, the viscosity of their film may also be the same (its own viscosity index). But the intensity of the effect of temperature on the viscosity of synthetics is much lower. This means that temperatures have less influence on the original parameters of synthetics; in short, it is less susceptible to freezing and liquefies less in the heat. 2. “After 100 t.km. you need to use semi-synthetic, it is thicker and compensates for the gaps that have increased due to wear” - this is not the right way. Of course, thicker oil will ooze and burn less in the cylinders, but not always. If you think your engine is very worn out, then it is better to fill it with special synthetic Valvoline MaxLife or any 5W-50. Mobile recommends doing this, but with the caveat that if the engine is working normally and oil consumption has not increased due to wear (not to be confused with tired oil seals or rings that have shrunk due to coking - this can be solved in a different way) - then switch to a thicker oil Not recommended! Because oils that are too thick circulate less well, are pressed through bearings and liners less well, as a result of which they cool and lubricate worse, despite a thicker film, IF the viscosity exceeds that allowed by the manufacturer.

The choice of oils (only synthetics 5W-40), relevant at the date of publication; when changing the generation of oils and formulations, the situation may change: SHELL HELIX ULTRA 5W-40 or HX8 - very low wear according to tests, including resource tests Autoreview on different engines, cleaning one of the best, low varnish formation, high survivability. The oil is not the most expensive, but very good. However, there are disadvantages: Oil-club has proven that European, American and Russian oils differ in composition, and Shell often changes formulations, as a result, it is quite difficult to track the exact picture, but it is reassuring that in any case, Shell oils have been included for many years among the best in various tests (trends inspire confidence). A special word about Shell with the inscription made in Russia - there is no need to be afraid of such oils: the new Russian plant is the most modern of all Shell's, full automation, Russian raw materials are not used (bases are delivered from Finland, additives from Germany), precise dosages of the composition down to 0.009% , a protective seal made of a special foam-like material under the cap (only Russian oils have a seal!) Independent test of Russian Shell (excellent result) Official answer from Shell about the protective seal under the cap. Video about the new Shell plant in Russia (Torzhok). How to distinguish a fake Shell Now Shells are on the new GTL “gas” base, judging by the analyzes on Oil-Club - the characteristics are excellent, like pure synthetics, at a low price of hydrocrack - a promising modernization!

MOBIL 1 0W-40 is one of the best oils, has almost zero varnish formation and low wear. One of the best oils in all respects, it appears little in the tests, but this is Mobile’s top oil and has the best properties in the entire line. On the Accent, the knocking of the hydraulics and chains becomes more high-frequency, louder, more like a chirping sound. If you think that it is too liquid and will leak, then you are mistaken. Its intrinsic viscosity index is quite standard, as is its fluidity at different temperatures, it’s just that the range of fluidity retention is expanded! Roughly speaking, 0W means that the oil thickens less in the cold, and not that it is initially thinner. By the way, according to oil-club tests, the composition of Mobile oils brought from the USA completely coincides with the composition of oils purchased in Russia. This devastating discovery completely shatters rumors that American oils are better than those exported to the countries of the former Soviet Union.

MOBIL SUPER 3000 5W-40 (updated) - has nothing in common with 0W-40, a completely different oil. Good wear protection and cleaning performance, only slightly inferior to Shell's, although in previous tests they were on par. But time does not stand still, perhaps with a change of generation and recipe the situation will change.

CASTROL - the main thing is not to take C3, otherwise the engine will crap, if you deviate a little from ideal operating conditions, contamination will occur, described in detail above, in the “Not worth buying” section. The EDGE series are excellent oils, with high wear protection and excellent cleaning (however, varnish formation is high). Magnatec series - they don’t stand out in any way, the cleaning is poor, but there is normal wear protection (however inferior to Shell, Mobile, ZIK oils). And of course, nothing is magnetic anywhere, it’s just that the oil is retained a little better, however, esters are usually responsible for retention, but in the latest analyzes esters are not detected in Magnateks. Either there were esters before, but now they have been removed, or the advertising of magnets was in the XADO style...

TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 5W-40 - many highly praise this oil; judging by the tests and photos of engines, it provides excellent cleaning, especially at high temperatures (in summer in traffic jams), but has wear protection below average among its competitors. This is not as scary as it might seem (in absolute terms, these figures do not greatly affect the mileage to capital), but there are oils for the same price without this drawback. In stability tests, it showed excellent results and survivability, however, I poured it into the Accent 4 times and each time I noticed a sharp increase in the knocking of the hydraulics after 2-4 thousand km, I think this indicates either a decrease in properties, or simply oil gets into such fluidity, which is not suitable for Accent compensators. The behavior reminded me of Ravenol oil, which after 5000 km the engine becomes louder, I don’t really like this association.

MOTUL - adored oils by many. But not all of them are good. The Eco series did not show anything special in tests, except for its high price. Wear protection is high only for aluminum (hello to modern engines); with regard to steel and cast iron, wear is poor. The rest of the characteristics are normal, nothing special. But for this price it is better to get a better oil. The X-cess series has excellent protection and cleaning performance (on par with the best representatives of Shell and ZIK), but the price is noticeably higher. X-clean FE series - have increased HTHS (higher dynamic viscosity) and excellent protection and cleaning performance (slightly superior to the best representatives of Shell and ZIK), but the price is noticeably higher. The X-max series is the top line. Protection and cleaning of the best, very high endurance base. Super oil, but very expensive.

VALVOLINE SYNPOWER 5W-40 is not a well-known manufacturer, but the oil is one of the best, it has excellent cleaning properties (high alkaline number) and almost zero varnish formation, as well as very good survivability. In the USA, the manufacturer of this oil gives a huge guarantee for your engine if you are serviced at their locations, I think this says a lot. All the characteristics of this oil are excellent, except for the price. Their line also includes unusual MaxLife oils designed specifically for engines with high mileage; they even contain a component that can soften hardened oil seals and restore some of their former elasticity.

ZIC 5W-40 - several years ago, ZIC greatly modernized its production and was intensively engaged in laboratory research. Now ZaRulem occupies a leading position in tests. So leading that it becomes suspicious. But let's look at the trends - the Koreans suddenly began to make good tires (used in drifting, rallying, junior formulas), good chemistry, very good cars - then why couldn't they start making good oils? And here the Autoreview test comes to the rescue, where the ZIK shows excellent results in protection against wear and contamination. Moreover, AR tested the LS version of the oil (this is LowSaps, ACEA C3)! Despite this, the result is very good. But the main thing is that ZIC oils have iron packaging, which is very expensive to counterfeit, and it is impossible to use old ones (they wrinkle, get scratched, you can’t easily attach a lid), so buying ZIC oil almost completely protects you from counterfeiting, even if you buy it in a homeless person’s backyard. In addition, all of Korea runs on these oils, and according to reviews, it suits the Accent engine; I haven’t used it myself, but I’ve personally heard that hydraulic fluids behave quite calmly when starting up. Don't buy the LS version.

LUKOIL 5W-40 - recently they have been highly praised, according to an analysis of the composition on the oil-club, their synthetics suggest excellent washing properties and SN class, in the ZR test it showed good cleaning (confirmed by the oil-club analysis) a huge list of approvals but... The list of approvals means nothing does not speak. And nothing is known about wear. But the biggest disadvantage is that the oil is only pennies cheaper than analogues from Shell and others, while Lukoil has a bunch of factories, some of which are not recommended for purchase, for example, they say that Perm oils are normal, and Volgograd oils are bad. I don’t see the point in bothering with minimal savings. But if you live in the outback and there is no reliable place to buy oil, and there are no well-protected ZIC oils on sale, then stop by any Lukoil gas station and feel free to buy this oil there.

LIQUI MOLY (two types, hydrocrack and pure blue) - both have wear indicators that are usually worse than their competitors, and the price is higher; the bases are very durable. They don't really stand out in tests. I don’t know if they have molybdenum in them now or not, but it itself seems to turn into a kind of abrasive after the service life has been exhausted, perhaps wear was related to this. If anyone knows more precisely, write in the comments, I’m not good at these oils.

ELF EXCELLIUM 5W-40 - formally the younger brother of Total, is the second echelon oil of the Total concern. Of course, such oil cannot be better than “daddy”. In tests, the indicators are normal, but for this price it is better to choose another oil. According to some, Total is not inferior, I haven’t studied it in more detail, the price is not interesting and there are reliable better options.

XADO 5W-40 - bad price, crazy advertising, but the iron can perfectly protects against counterfeits. By the way, the oil itself is not bad according to tests. But the fraudulent “presentation” is repulsive.

ps: 1) I don’t take into account oil consumption at all, because... It doesn't go away for me. In general, oil consumption depends more on the engine and its condition than on the oil itself, except that thicker oil with a high flash point will burn less, but this is not a cure, and for many engines, oil consumption is a design norm, if so, just top up . 2) in general, the Accent engine (like all Hyundais) ideally needs 5W-30, it should have less hydraulic noise and the sound of the engine will become less diesel.

About oil consumption: Oil consumption is directly affected by oil parameters (and not by the manufacturer Castrol, Mobile, etc.): - usual viscosity (such as 5W-40, 5W-30, etc.) - kinematic viscosity - flash point of the oil (ignition ) - ACEA class indicating film thickness and indirectly indicating the fluidity of the oil (A5 is more fluid than A3, but A3 has a thicker oil film)

Therefore, if you want to reduce oil consumption at all costs without repairs, increase the viscosity parameters of the oil.

Flushing: There is no need to flush the engine when changing oil to another; oils do not coagulate when mixed. Don't just wash it like that. If you have always used synthetics and changed it on time, and the engine is in good working order, then you won’t have much dirt after 100 or 200 thousand km. But you can wash it if: - you drove on C3 oils or other not the best oils - you regularly If you change the oil at the wrong time - you can see deposits under the filler cap (if you shine a flashlight) - you have a Hyundai Accent and you would like to reduce the crackling of the hydraulic compensators when cold (read below)

But be careful; a very dirty motor may have to be washed more than once, and often it is better not to touch it at all, only decarbonizing the rings (if necessary).

Which flush to choose: The most effective and safest are flushes that are filled 200-300 km before changing the oil. They are very effective, yet soft and dissolve dirt evenly without tearing it off in pieces. The flushing effect continues with fresh oil; the engine oil will continue to wash away softened dirt, safely and gradually removing deposits with a smooth dissolution. For your next oil change, you can repeat the flushing procedure if you wish. 5 minutes act more aggressively (including for oil seals), which is why they can tear off contaminants and clog the channels or oil receiver. Such washes are less safe.

Oil Flushing: Many people believe that the best flushing is to change the oil frequently. Let's just say that this method is more likely to protect you from contamination when using not the best types of oil, there is also a washing effect, but you will need at least 10 replacements after 5 thousand to see at least some effect. It's expensive and time-consuming. Using a soft wash will do the same in 200 km.

Source: www.drive2.ru

As a rule, certified service stations always have a large selection of motor oils and other fluids for the car. In addition, such service stations are not interested in purchasing counterfeits or low-quality liquids, because their work is based on warranty obligations to customers.