Electric power steering Kalina: repair and diagnostics

Battery problems

Based on this, we can draw the first conclusions about the cause of the breakdown. A common cause of malfunction is low voltage in the on-board network. The fact is that for the amplifier to function, a supply voltage of 13.5V is required.

First of all, we test the battery, if everything is fine with it, then we’ll look into it further. The problem may have occurred when you removed the battery for charging. To make the electric booster work again, turn the wheels to the extreme position and back 5-6 times, very often this is enough to resume operation.

Lada Granta Seli › Logbook › Problems with EUR

Greetings to everyone who came here. Actually, I would like to tell/ask about the breakdown of the EUR. To begin with: it began to behave inappropriately, then it constantly strengthened (the steering wheel was too soft at speed), then one fine day it completely switched off at a speed of 80-100 km/h, which, frankly speaking, caused quite a few troubles (I never would have thought that it is so difficult to rotate it without an amplifier on the grant). Common sense dictated that it was necessary to urgently look for the problem and this could not continue. But the problem was that I have little idea what EUR is and what it is eaten with. The first thing that came to mind was to remove the casing and check the EUR itself and the contacts going to it, learning at the same time that you can do its self-diagnosis. Well, it looks like the self-diagnosis item has broken down because there is a Korean with GM nameplates on which there is no information at all. Contacts? Well, I disconnected it, inserted it again - there are no oxides or anything else (which in general is not surprising), the power fuse is quite alive. To be honest, I didn’t know what else you could check with your paws. Then diagnostics was carried out using a normal scanner, which gave the following information:

Wiring fault

In the case when the battery is in order, we look at the wiring; weather conditions, frost, rain or heat may be associated factors. If the electric power steering on a Priora turns off when weather conditions change, then this is a clear sign of a wiring fault. Check the soldering and insulation of the winding; a short circuit may occur.

The Priora's electric power steering does not work all the time. The maximum load on the electric motor occurs at low or no speed, and the minimum at high speed. So, in the Priora, at a speed of 110 km/h, the electric booster is completely turned off. At the same time, feedback to the steering wheel becomes maximum. The Kalina electric power steering switches off already at 60 km/h.

Comments and reviews

Replacing the speed sensor (the gasoline level was triggered, the amplifier turned off, the speedometer did not work) - now the amplifier does not work - tell me how to fix the problem?

Is it possible to drive (get home) without an EUR? Car Lada Kalina

Either the EUR works, or the Lada Kalina does not work

At a speed of over 60 km on Kalina, the ESD turns on and pulls to the left. And when the car is running and the steering wheel is turned all the way to the left, the malfunction light comes on.

Kalina 111940, while driving the speedometer stopped showing, the yellow sensor on the bottom right “steering wheel” came on, I felt that the electric power steering had stopped working.

Hello Sergey, I changed the thermostat and the electric booster failed, tell me what could be the reason?

Hello, please tell me, the EUR on the Lada Kalina does not work in dry weather. And when it rains everything is ok, everything starts working right away

The Lada Granta car, when turning the steering wheel all the way, there were shocks in the opposite direction, especially when reversing. Then opposing points began to appear when moving forward. EUR Korean.

The EUR sensor lights up and stops working

Hello, the EUR on the Kalina does not work, although the speedometer works, what is the reason?

Hello. EUR periodically fails, on viburnum. We changed the speed sensor, checked the voltage, there was a loss on ground. corrected. The battery is old, but they improved its health (revived it), the problem remained. Everyone says that only replacing the EUR will help. I wouldn't want to buy such an expensive part. error is yellow

The electric power steering sometimes works, sometimes it doesn't. They brought up the rear. Gives out: one and two. I. One and seven. The voltage was measured at 13.9, everything seems to be normal, what's the matter? Lada Kalina

Chip errors

When a situation is observed that the wheels turn on their own, the reason is the electronic filling of the Priora electric power steering control unit. As mentioned above, quality was sacrificed for the sake of economy. Now the situation with this seems to have improved and everything has been finalized, but if suddenly you feel that the steering wheel is starting to move by itself, go for repairs.

If, along with the electric power steering, the speedometer also fails, then you need to look at the speed sensor. It was either simply dirty or broken. The same applies to the torque sensor installed on the amplifier. Clean them well and check their functionality.

Don’t forget to reset errors on the on-board computer; this can be done in several ways.

1. Remove the terminal from the battery, wait a few seconds and put it back, the error should go away.
2. Using a computer, the corresponding software can be found on the Internet.

Lada Kalina Hatchback › Logbook › EUR switches off

Good day to all!

Over the weekend I was driving along the highway and began to notice that the power steering began to turn off. And I know about it, about turning off at speeds above 60 km/h, but then it started turning off at speeds below 60. At first I thought it was overheating, it happens. But the next day I noticed that it began to turn off in the city. If you turn off the jerker and start it again, the amplifier comes to life. I removed the terminal from the battery, a new problem appeared - if you set the MUS to a mode other than DRL, then the BC State begins to squeak that the dimensions are on when driving! This had never happened before; I was driving on the highway with a neighbor. Well, at first I thought that the car was offended by me and didn’t like to drive with one burnt-out DRL lamp (that’s why I turned on the low beam), I replaced it, but the miracles did not disappear, as expected... I felt sad...

Jackie-chan wasn't there! BC-State didn’t show anything... The speed shows, everything seems to be normal. I tried disconnecting the battery again, nothing changed. Something even more depressed...

I went to read these Internets, there I recommend the “paper clip” method, whoever is interested in more details, you can google it, if multiple, then you need to find the 8-pin connector going to the EUR and poke the paper clip into 2 contacts, one is ground, the second is L-Line (if not I’m wrong) and then the ESD light on the dashboard will start blinking and by its blinking you can determine what’s wrong. But here you need to remove the steering casing, crawl to the top with your backside near the connector, this was plan “B”.

Plan “B” was to go to diagnostics, where smart guys, using high computer technology, would immediately tell me what was wrong with my “Bibik”, but this is too ideal an option, and we are not looking for easy ways!

Then I figured that most people on the Internet either have a speed sensor failure or a contact in the electric power steering is lost, which also seems to be curable. The failure option more logically describes the behavior of the EUR and the blathering BC Staff, which swears at the dimensions while in motion.

In general, I drove into the pit, I couldn’t find where the speed sensor was on top, but I found something similar to it on the bottom, unscrewed it with a 10mm head, and first unclicked the terminal. I examined it, everything looks fine.

I drove it to the store, bought the same sensor (there are three different types, so it’s better to show what you need), screwed it into place, returned the terminals to the battery back and BC State calmed down, drove around the city and suburbs until I noticed the amplifier was disconnected steering wheel

Bottom line: I fixed the car, squeezed the money for the officials, let them go hungry! :))

Fuse box location

If you suspect that a fuse has blown and you want to check it, then the question arises: where is the Priora electric power steering fuse located? The control mounting block is located to the left of the steering wheel. Its opening scheme is simple. All you need to do is turn the three latches 90˚ and remove the cover, as shown in the photo, and you get to the brain stuffing of the car.

Here you can check and replace the failed fuse, then close the lid by pressing it tightly and snapping the three latches back 90˚ in the opposite direction.

You can carry out diagnostics and minor repairs to the Priora's electric power steering with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to determine what caused the failure and fix the problem, following our advice. It is better to entrust a complete replacement of the electric amplifier to professionals.

Electric power steering is a component used to provide more comfortable driving. Not so long ago, domestically produced cars began to be equipped with EUR, in particular, in this article we will talk about Lada Kalinas. What malfunctions can occur with the Kalina EUR and what troubleshooting methods are there? Find answers to these and other questions below.

Causes of EUR failure

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

Photo gallery “Adjusting the steering rack”

How can I lubricate and adjust the EUR?

Electric power steering connection diagram with icons

Video “Guide to repairing an electric booster in a garage”

Comments and Reviews

Causes of EUR failure

Why does the electric power steering on the Lada Kalina not work, turns off and refuses to work, what are the signs of a steering wheel with power steering knocking, jamming, biting or squeaking? To repair the system yourself, you need to know how diagnostics are carried out and what causes precede the breakdown. Most often, the failure of the amplifier is caused by a breakdown of the unit itself and the amplifier fails. Problems of this type are resolved by thoroughly checking the system to identify the exact problem.

As practice shows, often the inoperability of the electric amplifier (failure) is associated with a breakdown of the speed controller.

• the steering wheel is jammed,
• jams
• becomes tight
• and others

Because the speed controller sensor ensures activation and deactivation of the electric power steering under different driving modes. The amplifier on Kalina works if the car is moving at low speed. When the speed begins to increase, the booster automatically turns off, allowing for safer machine control when driving at high speeds.

So, briefly about the reasons for the inoperability of the EUR:

1. The speed controller has failed or the control unit does not receive or disappears a signal from it. In this case, the reason may lie in either a breakdown of the sensor, damaged wiring, or poor contact of the controller with the on-board network.
2. The voltage in the vehicle's electrical network has decreased. The reasons can be different, ranging from a dead battery and an inoperative generator to the use of inappropriate electrical equipment in the car.
3. The permissible crankshaft speed has been exceeded.
4. Incorrect operation or failure of the control module. Depending on the cause, the control unit may need to be repaired; more detailed diagnostics need to be done.

Possible malfunctions and their causes

The main problem that causes breakdown of the electric power steering is.

The EUR installed on Kalina does not work with a constant force applied to the steering rack. The amplifier begins to operate at full strength only when the car is moving at low speed or is at rest. When accelerating, the power steering forces on the steering rack decrease. That is, the lower the speed, the more the power steering starts to work.

The naturally described malfunction can only be detected when the car is standing still or moving at low speed

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This failure can only be corrected by completely replacing the speed sensor.
Moreover, here it is not necessary to go to the service. You can replace everything yourself. The second malfunction may be hidden in the EUR itself. Basically, it consists of self-disabling the electric power steering due to the fact that it has not passed self-test. That is, the device turns off automatically so as not to interfere with the driver when driving the car.

This kind of malfunction guarantees a trip to the service station and will require you to spend a lot of money.

Diagnostics

To check the amplifier in a car, you need to remove the plastic trim on the steering column; to do this, unscrew the bolts securing it from the bottom.

Then you will need to get to the 8-pin plug, its pinout is as follows:

• The blue contact is connected to the ignition switch, this is 12 volt power;
• the red-brown contact is the connection cable to the tachometer;
• the gray contact goes to the car speed controller;
• white and pink wire - amplifier control indicator;
• black-yellow contact is a diagnostic line;
• the next contact is empty, the wire is not connected to it;
• brown contact is ground;
• empty.

Dismantling and disassembling the electric amplifier

Before removing the amplifier, you need to remove all the steering column switches. Remove the steering rack cover and dismantle the devices, remembering to disconnect the connectors from the power supply.

How to remove the EUR with your own hands:

1. After removing the switches, you will need to dismantle the lower cross member of the dashboard. To do this, you need to press the fasteners that secure the connector with wires, and then disconnect the wiring from the control module. Once these steps are completed, you can disconnect the connector from the switches.
2. The system bracket is secured with nuts; you will need to unscrew them with a wrench.
3. After this, the steering rack will need to be carefully lowered down. To do this, you will need to find the bolt that secures the driveshaft to the booster shaft. This bolt must be unscrewed, but when unscrewing, you will need to fix the nut, this will prevent it from turning. When the bolt is removed, the fastening will need to be loosened, after which the intermediate shaft will be carefully removed. At this stage, we recommend marking the position of the shaft and gears; you can use a marker for this. This step is very important because doing it will prevent possible installation problems in the future. If the marks on the shafts do not match, this may cause problems with the amplifier. When dismantling, be careful not to damage the wiring, as this will also lead to the inoperability of the ESD.
4. When the unit is dismantled, it will need to be disassembled and the failed elements replaced. Further editing is done in reverse order (the author of the video is Murzik Bely).

The need to replace the electric power steering and the importance of a qualified approach

Replacing the electric power steering should only be done by experienced craftsmen, and if the warranty period for the Lada Kalina has not yet expired, then the best solution would be to contact the dealer network to solve the problem. If the warranty has expired, and it is difficult to collect additional material resources for qualified repair of the device, then the way out of this situation is to install the electric power steering yourself.

It should be taken into account that this procedure is quite complicated. Therefore, it is not worth carrying out without certain training and technical skills. The result of unskilled actions can be not only a complete failure of the system, but also more complex and expensive repairs. Therefore, the installation of the EUR should be done only after studying all the details and features of the vehicle’s networks.

In such a situation, the device connection diagram will become an indispensable assistant and will allow you to perform the necessary actions more clearly.

To remove a faulty electric booster, it is necessary to partially disassemble the panel located under the steering wheel and disconnect all the wires going to the device. Installing a new type of electric power steering may not be necessary, since the likelihood is quite high that after carrying out some preventive measures, the old device will work no worse than the new one.

One of the most common problems of this type is a knocking sound in the electric power steering, accompanied by a squeaking sound when the wheel itself is turned. In such a situation, EUR lubricant can solve the problem. If this step does not help, then the device requires more detailed diagnostics or complete replacement.

Installing the EUR requires some care. All wires must be connected, the device itself must be installed in its proper place, and the steering column panel must be reassembled.

Electric power steering is a problem area for the Lada Kalina. Surely this is due to the fact that the domestic auto industry has only recently become acquainted with the ESD. Avtovaz has not yet learned how to make good steering systems. Therefore, repairing electric power steering on Kalina remains a common practice. But it is best done by specialists.

Amateurism will be inappropriate here - it can only aggravate the situation. The steering system is an important component, the serviceability of which determines the efficiency of driving and, of course, safety.

Repairing the electric power steering on Kalina is a responsible job that requires certain knowledge in the field of power steering. And since a minimum number of car enthusiasts have such knowledge, mostly when problems arise, drivers go to a service station, which is fundamentally correct.

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

The appearance of a knocking sound in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.

How to do it right:

1. First you need to disconnect the battery; to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. Unscrew the battery mount; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and put aside.
2. Then you need to lift the plastic stand, there are four more screws under it, they can also be unscrewed.
3. Having done this, it is necessary to move this stand forward until the platform is disconnected from the air filter housing retainer pad. After this, the trim can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the rail itself.
4. At the next stage, you will need to crawl your hand under the rail. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap; it will need to be removed, this will allow the key to access the adjusting nut.
5. To perform adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the rack; without it, the adjustment procedure will not be possible. Using this wrench, you need to crawl under the car rail to install the tool in the required hole.
6. When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the rack. If its tightening is very strong, then when cornering the rack will bite, and this, in turn, may affect the safety of movement. The angle of adjustment is always different, it depends on how much the nut is loose, but usually when performing such work the nut is tightened by approximately 30 degrees. This should be enough to get everything right. After the adjustment is completed, it will be necessary to check that this task was performed correctly. That is, you will need to make sure that the steering wheel turns normally to any position all the way and there is no knocking. If the knock remains, then the adjustment continues.

How can I lubricate and adjust the EUR?

How and with what to lubricate the amplifier?

Litol can be used as a lubricant; the procedure is performed as follows:

1. First you need to remove the plastic casing; to do this, unscrew the bolts that secure it. To unscrew, use a Phillips head screwdriver. It is also advisable to remove the lower cross member of the instrument panel, located under the steering wheel.
2. Next, unscrew the two bolts that secure the amplifier itself; for this you will need a 13mm wrench. After this, the column can be released down.
3. Unscrew another bolt, after which you can do the actual lubrication.
4. First, the steering wheel is turned to the left until it stops. The lubricant is poured into a 10 cc syringe, which needs to be sprayed into the hole formed. You need to throw out all 10 cubes.
5. Then the steering wheel is turned to the right until it stops - the syringe is again directed into the hole, all the lubricant is sprayed out.
6. After this, the steering wheel should be turned to the middle position and again sprinkled with lubricant into the hole.
7. Next, the steering wheel must be turned in different directions until it stops several times. The lubrication operation is repeated again.
8. Then all the components are assembled in reverse order.

ESD error on the dashboard

The on-board computer will signal a malfunction of the EUR

Owners of a Kalina car with installed electric power steering enjoy pleasant and convenient control, but run the risk of encountering a problem - the “European Power Steering Error” light comes on. The reason for this may be either a complete failure of the system or its incorrect operation. It is worth noting that the sensor glows yellow, not red. This means that you can operate the car without a working Lada Kalina electric power steering, taking certain precautions.

You will have to apply more force to the steering wheel if you turn off the EMUR completely. This can be done quite simply by removing the fuse that supplies power to the control unit. If the power steering does not work or some strange phenomena are observed in its behavior, it is better to remove the fuse and undergo a complete diagnostic of the vehicle systems, which will show the cause of the breakdown. Driving without electric power assistance can be challenging. Out of habit, the steering wheel seems too tight, but in reality it is the same as on the Kalina “standard” configuration.

There are two reasons for EMUR failure: a malfunction of the speed sensor or a breakdown in the control unit. The first problem can be solved very quickly; this can be done even in a garage. In the second case, you will have to remove the control unit and contact an experienced electrician to install a new one. If the warranty is valid, you must show the car to specialists at a car service center.

If you still want to remove and install the control unit yourself, all you need is a Phillips screwdriver. First, all plastic panels under the steering wheel are dismantled to facilitate access to the unit. And do not forget that the battery should be disconnected, this will avoid problems with the electrical wiring. The plastic cover, which is located at the bottom of the panel, is secured with three bolts. They need to be unscrewed and the cover removed.

A view of the control unit itself opens after removing the cover. All plugs must be disconnected from the EMUR control unit. The block itself is secured with two bolts. Unscrew them and carefully pull the box down so as not to damage anything. Remember that the block is still attached to the plate. The box should be slightly higher than the pedals. Only after this do you need to unscrew the three bolts that secure the control unit to the plate. Now all that remains is to screw the new control unit onto the plate and carefully install everything in the reverse order. Secure the box with two bolts, then connect all the plugs, after which you can begin assembling the facing panels.

vendor code

Standard Electric power steering VAZ 1118 (Kalina), Granta, Datsun On-Do (Mi-Do), Priora 11186-3450008-02, 1117-3450008-02

Manufacturer: Autoelectronics, Kaluga, Russia

Price 20,500 rubles