Do-it-yourself oil change in a Peugeot 308 engine

Choosing the most suitable oil for a Peugeot model 308, as well as for many other cars, is quite difficult. After all, it is necessary to know the parameters that the lubricant must meet, as well as the operating features of various vehicle components, such as the engine, oil system, etc.

Peugeot 308

The Peugeot 308 is a unique car that has gained popularity and recognition among car enthusiasts not only in our country, but throughout the world. The fast and dynamic design of this model is perfectly combined with excellent functionality. At the same time, such characteristics as vehicle speed, comfort, safety and other service capabilities are provided for the driver himself and his fellow travelers.

In order for the car to always have such advanced qualities, it is necessary to properly care for it, including changing the oil in a timely manner, using the appropriate brand.

Why is it necessary to change the engine oil?

Motor oil, like any other technical fluid, has a limited functional life. This is caused by exposure to high operating temperatures, severe work intensity, environmental factors, low quality gasoline, etc. The purpose of the oil is not only to lubricate interacting surfaces, although this is certainly a priority task, but also to flush away soot deposits that form inside the power unit due to incomplete combustion of fuel. More precisely, the fuel burns out, and traces are left behind by additives that are actively used by unscrupulous refueling operators. Over time, motor lubricant becomes excessively contaminated, lowering its boiling point. By bringing the oil to this state, the car enthusiast may not count on any protection. Internal components no longer receive proper lubrication, causing them to overheat and quickly fail.

The average working life of one engine oil cycle is 10 thousand kilometers. It varies by 1.5-2 thousand in both directions, but you need to focus on this figure. The model we are considering is no exception in this sense. It is necessary to rotate the lubricant of its power unit every 10 thousand km. Don't forget about replacing the filter. Its resource is similar.

What tools are required to change the oil on a Peugeot 308?

In general, the tools for servicing the Peugeot 308 are similar to the set of equipment required to change engine oils in any other cars.

You need to start by finding a suitable room. Any garage box equipped with an inspection hole or a lift will suit you. This will make it easier to access the lower part of the engine - the oil sump.
The peculiarity of Peugeot 308 oil filters is that they require a cassette design. What does it mean? The fact is that you need to insert the filter into a special housing, and not screw it onto the thread, as is generally accepted. Most car owners do not use original filters. Drivers prefer cheaper analogues. We would recommend the product sold under the catalog number " HU7115X
".
Be sure to stock up on a 27mm socket wrench, extension and wrench. Without them, replacement cannot be made. Here we will also mention a set of hex keys.
Take care in advance of a container of a suitable size into which you will drain the used oil. A little rag won't hurt either.

When you have prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the actual implementation of the intended work.

Step-by-step guide to changing engine oil on a Peugeot 308

Rotation of engine oil in the 308 Peugeot model requires strict adherence to a certain sequence of actions. It is not complicated, but the overall quality of the work depends on its correctness.

At the first stage, unscrew and remove the filler cap through which the oil is poured. This is necessary to create sufficient atmospheric pressure inside the engine, which affects the maximum fluidity of the old “slurry”.
If the engine protection is installed, it will need to be removed. The protection is held on by 2 14 mm bolts; 2 by 17 mm and 7 bolts by 10 mm. Please note that 2 14mm bolts are under plastic protection; it will be difficult to get to these bolts without removing it, but it is possible.
The next step is to replace the oil filter. We have already mentioned that Peugeot uses cassette filters. To get to this element, remove the plastic cover, loosen the clamp and remove the air intake. This gives us access to the housing located on the side of the engine. Using a 27 mm socket wrench, extension and wrench, remove the old filter. Remaining oil should be removed from the housing, lubricated, and then the filter element should be replaced. Having done all this, we return it to its place. You can also screw the air intake back on. We no longer need access to this part of the engine compartment.
Using a size 8 hex wrench, unscrew the drain plug from the crankcase, not forgetting to substitute a previously prepared container for draining the waste. When the oil flow stops, tighten the plug again.
At the final stage, you need to add fresh oil. This must be done through the oil filler neck. The Peugeot 308 engine holds 3.5 liters, but you are unlikely to be able to fill the specified volume. The fact is that it is impossible to completely drain the used fluid, which is why you have to fill in less new oil. The most correct way would be to fill 2.5 liters, after which you need to add 150-200 grams at a time, constantly monitoring the overall lubricant level using a dipstick. Having reached o, close the lid and start the car engine. The oil pressure light located on the instrument panel should go out. If this happened, then we did everything right. The next morning, check that the level is maintained and, if necessary, add additional oil.

When to change, how much and what kind of oil to fill in Peugeot 308

The frequency of oil changes in the Peugeot 308 engine, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, is 20,000 km. mileage or once a year - whichever comes first. However, the harsh reality of operation in harsh conditions dictates a slightly different replacement interval - every 10,000 km.

or six months.

The manufacturer recommends filling in oil of quality API SJ, SL, ILSAC GF-3, ACEA A3/B4, and viscosity SAE 0W30, SAE 5W30

(may vary depending on the climatic conditions of the region).

The engine oil filling volume is 4.25 liters, including the oil filter.

Oil filter analogues - MANN FILTER HU71151X, FILTRON E673, MAHLE X3392D, PURFLUX L358A, etc.

The number of the original drain plug gasket is 31338.

To change the oil you will need:

1) an 8mm hex wrench (or a suitable socket) for unscrewing the drain plug;

3) new filter element and o-ring;

4) a container for old oil (5 liters) and a clean rag.

5) 5 liter oil canister.

What's the result?

As we can see, changing the engine oil on your Peugeot 308 yourself is not difficult. You do not need to visit a car service center, waste your time and money. Most car enthusiasts are able to do all the work themselves, without turning to professionals for help.

The engine is the main functional unit of a vehicle. Its importance for a machine is often associated with the importance of the heart for the human body. It is possible to achieve uninterrupted, correct operation of the power unit by properly caring for it, carrying out regulated oil changes in accordance with the recommendations of the automaker. Recently, the issue of the engine of your car has become topical. Each car owner has different reasons for this, some are trying to save money on performing the procedure by professionals using this method, while others simply want to gain additional experience interacting with their car and trust the results only of the work they did with their own hands. In this article we will tell you how to change the oil in a Peugeot 308 at home, consider the specifics of performing the task and the features of choosing lubricants.

Do-it-yourself instructions for changing the oil in a Peugeot 308 engine.

Step-by-step procedure

The process of changing the oil on a Peugeot must be carried out with strict adherence to the sequence of all stages. The final quality of the work performed largely depends on this.

It is necessary to warm up the car engine to operating temperature. To do this, just keep the engine at idle for about 10 minutes. or drive a few kilometers.
The car is installed on a flat horizontal surface. An overpass, an inspection hole, or a lift will do.
After stopping the power unit, unscrew the oil filler cap. This is how atmospheric pressure is used to improve the fluidity of the old lubricating fluid.
The engine protection is removed. The existing mounting bolts that secure the shield are unscrewed.
The oil filter, which has a cassette design, is replaced. In order to get to the internal element, remove the plastic cover, slightly loosen the clamp, and dismantle the air intake. This opens access to the housing located on the side of the motor. The old filter element is removed from it.
The filter housing is cleaned of residual used substances and lubricated with new oily liquid. The O-ring is replaced. It is also lubricated with fresh lubricant. After this, a new filter is installed. Having completed this type of work, the air intake is returned to its place.
Place a container under the drain hole in the engine crankcase to collect used lubricant.
Unscrew the drain plug and allow the oil to drain. When the old lubricant stops flowing from the crankcase, screw the plug back in.
The engine is filled with new lubricant through the oil filler neck. This should be done very carefully and carefully. It is better to first fill in 2.5 liters of new lubricant. Then, in small portions (150–200 g) in several steps, add to the desired level. When the new lubricant reaches the maximum mark on the dipstick, then close the filler cap.
The car engine starts. Make sure that the light indicating oil pressure goes out. This will be a sign that all previous operations were performed correctly.
After a certain time (after the engine has completely cooled), a control measurement of the new oil level is carried out. If necessary, additional oil is added.

After completing the procedure, you can reset the counter that records the timing of scheduled maintenance. To do this, turn on the ignition and hold down the reset counter button. At the moment when zero appears on the dashboard, the button is released.

Most car enthusiasts are quite capable of changing the engine oil on their Peugeot 308 on their own. As practice shows, this process is not particularly difficult. And the reward will be saved money and confidence in the quality of all necessary work.

Do-it-yourself instructions for changing the oil in a Peugeot 308 engine.

When to change?

Scheduled oil changes in the Peugeot 308 engine, according to the manufacturer’s regulations, every twenty-four thousand kilometers traveled by the car. In practice, this interval may be shortened if the following negative impact factors are present during the operation of the vehicle:

low quality of road surface;
extreme type of driving, including frequent traffic jams and traffic lights;
age indicators of the car;
harsh climate with sudden temperature changes;
low-quality fuel and lubricants.

Experts and car owners note the need to change the engine oil of a car that is operated in aggressive and difficult climatic conditions at least once a year, with a mileage of no more than ten thousand kilometers. It is worth considering that the older the car, the more often the engine will need preventative maintenance. In addition, owners note that the number of required services increases significantly when the car exceeds the mileage mark of fifty thousand kilometers. You can determine the need for unscheduled maintenance if you carefully listen to your car during operation, as well as by visually inspecting the oil when checking its level, and it is important to carry out the procedure no less often than the car manufacturer regulates.

WHY EP6 ENGINES PERFORM BADLY

The EP6 engines, which incorporate the best developments of the “eggheaded” engineers of BMW and PSA, are certainly good. However, it is not surprising that in many even quite “young” Peugeot and Citroen EP6 engines operate unstable and noisy, do not develop the required power, “choke” during acceleration, and consume too much fuel and oil. After a relatively short mileage, the timing belt phases “run away”, the “antipollution system faulty” error lights up on the dashboard... On an almost new car, the coolant temperature sensor may “fail,” which leads to improper operation of the engine and the replacement of the thermostat. Frequent oil leaks add their own drop of ointment. The main potentially dangerous places are the valve cover gasket (especially if oil flows into the spark plug wells and corrodes the tips of the ignition coils) and the oil filter housing, the vacuum pump gasket, and the electric valve of the oil pump.

If you are too lazy to read further, then the general meaning of what is stated below is approximately this: EP6 engines “love” frequent oil changes, and not just any oil, but 5w30 Eneos from Total, they love good gasoline and regular checking of the oil level. The engine must be inspected regularly and oil leaks must be repaired promptly. And turbocharged EP6DT engines also love that, among other things, they are periodically given a good “grip”. When buying a car with an EP6DT turbo engine, be prepared for the fact that surprises are possible at 50 thousand.

With rare oil changes and especially when operating the EP6 engine with a low oil level, the valve lift mechanism fails. There may be options here. Either the motor itself, which moves the valve lift shaft, is “covered,” or the worm pair of the motor and the shaft is mechanically worn out. Look at the photos, this is what mechanical wear on the worm drive and valve lift shaft gear looks like.

Wear of the worm drive of the valve lift motor of the EP6 Peugeot 308 engine, note the thickness of the teeth in the middle

Wear of the valve lift shaft gear of the EP6 Peugeot 308 engine, there is a “propylene” track in the middle of the gear

A single-row timing chain has a short resource. It's simply stretched. Add to this the oil changes recommended by the French at one time after 20,000 kilometers and just by the end of the warranty period you will get a motor fouled by a black substance, a stretched chain and misaligned phases. The oil channels in the cylinder head and the valves of the phase regulators, which supply oil to the phase regulators, become clogged with waste from rarely changed oil. The phase regulators themselves can also suffer from oil slag. On engines of the first production, metal camshaft sealing rings “saw through” the tracks on the camshaft beds, which again prevents the required oil pressure from being supplied to the phase regulators. The engine starts to get rich and error P2178 appears. Read more about this here.

Error P2178, indicating an excessively rich mixture, can appear for many reasons. But basically, this is, of course, contamination of the cylinder head oil channels.

EP6 valves become covered with thick carbon deposits, especially on turbocharged engines. This is due, first of all, to the rapid wear of oil seals, especially on exhaust valves. The exhaust valves heat up more and the caps on them die faster. Oil flies into the cylinders, its combustion products settle in greasy black growths on the valves, prematurely damaging the catalyst. Carbon deposits complicate the normal operation of the valves and impair gas distribution, but it also additionally “tears” the already bad valve stem seals, causing the latter to completely stop performing their function. To eliminate carbon deposits on the valves, you have to take drastic action by cleaning the valves manually. While the process has not gone that far, you can preventively change the valve stem seals without removing the cylinder head. This is not particularly expensive, and should be done if your EP6 has run more than 50 thousand and begins to eat up oil. Oil consumption, as a rule, is also associated with a torn oil separator membrane, which is located in the valve cover. In this case, you shouldn’t bother with Chinese repair kits, they are simply of terrible quality, but it’s better to “wipe” the entire cover. We always have original ones in stock. Another problem with EP6DT turbo engines is the tube through which oil is supplied to the turbine, clogged with the same deposits of old oil. When oil stops flowing to the turbine, it “covers up”.

As for problems with timing belt timing, first of all, it is necessary to correctly determine the source of the problem. And then - either replacing the chain with tensioner and dampers, or replacing the “stars” of the camshaft phase regulators or valves supplying oil to them, or cleaning the oil channels in the cylinder head, or all of the above at once. The valve lift mechanism or worn camshaft beds can also “drink blood.” It should be noted that a multi-brand service is unlikely to properly repair or adjust EP6 and EP6DT motors. Almost any intervention in the engine requires subsequent adaptation using a computer and specialized software. Not every car service center has Lexia. There are even fewer people who know how to use it properly.

Of course, first of all you need to check the oil level! The EP6 engine, due to its complex timing system, is very sensitive to the oil level and “sausages” if “just a liter” is not enough. Most often, the timing phases are shifted simply due to a stretched chain. Nothing surprising. You can’t look at the chain itself without tears; the impression is that it is intended for the “Druzhok” bicycle. They couldn’t install at least a two-row...

For EP6 engines, the worst thing is the rare change of engine oil, which is widely practiced at dealerships. My heart bleeds when some nice girl comes to us in a Peugeot 308, who has undergone maintenance at dealers, whose service book is neatly filled out, but at the same time, not just used oil is drained from her engine, but 2-3 liters of thick, blackening oil. a substance more reminiscent of fuel oil... It is possible that her oil was not changed at all. Or they changed it every other time.

In our humble opinion, 10,000 kilometers is the service limit of motor oil, no matter how good it is. When driving through Moscow traffic jams, it is advisable to change the oil after 8 thousand kilometers. You need to change the spark plugs at least once a year. There are a lot of real-life examples where people ignored the warranty and often changed the oil themselves. One of our grandfather clients on a 308 fawn, who is changing the oil in his own garage out of an old habit, has already driven 170 thousand in this way, and, surprisingly, his engine is still working like a clock!

The conclusion from all of the above is simple. If you bought a new car with an EP6 engine and want it to last for a long time, ignore the warranty (nothing will happen during the warranty period anyway) and change the oil every 8-10 thousand kilometers . It is advisable to fill the EP6 engine with only TOTAL 5w30 ENEOS oil.

A completely disassembled head from EP6 consists of a lot of pieces of iron!

peugeot-moscow.com

How to choose the right lubricant?

Choosing a motor oil for your car’s engine is not an easy task today for every car owner, regardless of his type of transport. The difficulty of choosing is determined by the large assortment of lubricants on the market, from different manufacturers, with different technological characteristics. What should the consumer be guided by when choosing which oil to pour into the Peugeot 308 engine: advice from friends, parting words from store clerks, or should he still give preference to the automaker’s recommendations? When choosing an oil, professionals advise to be guided solely by the user’s instructions for the car, since only on the basis of the technical features of the engine and compliance with these characteristics of the motor oil can the efficient operation of the power unit be achieved.

The automaker regulates for the Peugeot 308 a world-famous oil. At the same time, products with viscosity coefficients 0W30, 5W30 and 5W40 are allowed to be poured into the Peugeot 308 engine, depending on the prevailing climatic conditions in which the car is operated, the age of the car and the degree of load on the engine.

If for some reason you are not satisfied with Total products, then you can choose another oil for your car’s engine, in accordance with the technological requirements from the manufacturer, which include the following characteristics:

Motor oil compliance with SAE standards 0W30 or 5W
Quality characteristics according to API must be no lower than SJ or SL class, which indicates that the product belongs to the new generation of goods.
The oil must meet the ACEA specification product class with identifier A3/B
Product compliance with ILSAC specification for product category GL-3.

Based on these data, we can say that the consumer can decide for himself which oil to pour into the engine of his vehicle, from any manufacturer, taking into account the product’s compliance with the above standards, without damage to the engine or fear for its performance criteria.

Criteria for selecting the necessary materials

Engine lubricant

To avoid unwanted emergency situations during engine operation, increase the power of the Peugeot 308 120 VTi, determine the required level of lubricant quality and optimal gasoline consumption, you must always adhere to several basic rules:

The most suitable summer option for the Peugeot 308 120 VTi is LUXE HIT Mobil, Castrol 5W40. During winter cold, the optimal level of engine performance is provided by oil of the same brand, but with a viscosity of 0W30;
It is recommended to purchase such products only from well-known registered representatives of the manufacturer, since the car owner can always fill the Peugeot 308 engine with an expensive counterfeit;
The more mileage the Peugeot 308 120 VTi has, the faster it eats up the lubricant and, therefore, the higher its viscosity should be compared to that recommended by the car's developers. It is not advisable to pour the same fluid into an old engine as into a new one;
When it is known what kind of engine oil the driver will pour into his Peugeot after using a product of another brand, it is recommended to first flush the lubrication channels with a special detergent.

How much oil is needed to change?

Regarding Peugeot 308 vehicles, the most pressing question is how much oil is required to replace it in the engine. Searching for an answer to this question on various forums does not give an exact result; you can come across different numbers, and at the same time, each of the car owners will claim that he is right, based on personal experience in replacing the lubricant.

The fact is that the Peugeot 308 was equipped from the factory with different engine modifications, depending on which the oil volume varies. In order to find out exactly how much oil is required for the engine of your car, you need to look in the documentation for it for the volume of cylinders with which the unit is equipped. According to the manufacturer, Peugeot 308 models with the 1.4 engine version will require 4.25 liters of oil. For a 1.6 internal combustion engine with a 16V, THP 16V and Turbo HDI design, 3.25, 4.25 and 3.75 liters of motor oil will be required to completely replace it. And the 2 Turbo HDI 16V engine will contain exactly five liters and two hundred and fifty grams of lubricant.

When purchasing motor oil, depending on the type of engine of your car, you need to take the volume of products, rounded up to a whole number, for example, if your power unit requires, according to the instructions, 3.25 liters of lubricant, then buy a four-liter canister. Regardless of the modification of the internal combustion engine, the oil level is checked in all models using a dipstick, and lubrication indicators are considered normal when its criteria are midway between the MIN and MAX marks.

What kind of oil to pour into the Peugeot 308 engine

The factory has set a replacement interval of 40,000 km for the EP6 engine.

Depending on the year of manufacture and engine size, the PSA concern recommends several brands of oils, but from one manufacturer, the French company Total

.
The same oils are poured on the conveyor. Here they are - Total Quartz Energy 0w-30
and
Total Quartz 5w-30
. In most cases, these oils are poured into new cars.

Total Quartz Future 5w-30 oil as a replacement

, but it is somewhat cheaper than Quartz 5w-30 and is essentially a semi-synthetic oil, while only synthetics are poured from the factory.
In some cases, Total Quarz Future 9000 5W-30 may be poured onto the conveyor
.

Total Quartz 5W-30

differs from the Energy series not only in viscosity, but also in some additives. Based on viscosity indices, 0w30 oil is recommended for northern regions, and oils with a viscosity of 5W-30 can be used in summer and in warm regions.

Let us recall that the first digit in the viscosity index means the lower thickening threshold (approximately -30-35 degrees
), and the second is actually the “flash point”.

But the viscosity indicator is not everything. The manufacturer simply recommends a company that produces oil, but at the same time gives clear instructions on tolerances. We have no reason not to trust the PSA concern, so it’s better to listen to their recommendations

. At the same time, choose the brand of oil according to your wallet and personal preferences.

We conclude: oil with a viscosity index of 0W-30 will allow the engine to start easier in 40-degree frost, and an engine with 5W-30 oil will have slightly less consumption. Now about consumption rates.

Standard oil consumption for EP6 engine

Depending on the service life of the engine, and most importantly, the oil and filter, consumption can vary greatly. As a rule, for cars with an engine of any size, the PSA concern allows oil consumption within 500 ml per 1 thousand km. In fact, this is not always true.

Fawns with mileage up to 70–80 thousand most often ask for 250–350 ml per thousand

Of course, a lot depends on the mode and operating conditions of the car. If you constantly rev the engine to the red zone, then the waste consumption can be much higher. For some it reaches 800-1000 ml per 1000 km, which already makes you think about repairs.

The point here is not at all about the brand of oil or its viscosity. Yes, many people advise pouring more viscous oils into tired engines with high mileage; it won’t make them any worse. But it's better too. Here's what affects oil consumption:

How much oil to pour?

The plant also gives a precise and unambiguous answer on this matter. Depending on the engine size, the oil volume will be as follows

The 1.4-liter naturally-aspirated petrol engine EP3 produced from 2007 to 2009 holds 4.20 liters
;
since 2011, the same engine, but modernized, will accommodate 4.25 liters
;
The 1.6-liter naturally aspirated EP6, our most popular, holds from 4.2 to 4.25 liters
, depending on the year of manufacture;
1.6-liter 5FA turbo engine - from 4.2 (since 2007) to 4.25 (since 2009)
;
all modifications of 1.6-liter diesel engines splash 3.75 liters
of oil;
5.25 liters
are poured into a two-liter diesel engine .

What tools are needed for replacement?

The work of changing the oil, although not difficult, requires concentration and attentiveness from the performer, therefore it is advisable to first prepare all the tools and materials for performing the procedure, so as not to be distracted by searching for them at an inopportune moment.

Regardless of the engine version of your car, the set of materials required for work looks standard:

a set of car keys, including an extension and a wrench;
container for used emulsion, its volume must be no less than the displacement of oil that is included in the unit;
a metal brush and rags, they will be needed to clean the surfaces of the unit;
direct funnel for filling lubricant;
protective clothing.

In addition to tools, you need to stock up on materials and consumables needed for replacement. It is important to purchase oil in advance in the required volume, a new filtration element of the original type, and you may also need a new sealing ring for the drain hole.

Replacement instructions from the manufacturer

After preparing all the materials necessary to complete the work, you can proceed directly to changing the lubricant. You can learn how to change the oil in a Peugeot 308 engine from the user manual for the car, or follow the recommendations described below if for some reason you do not have instructions available:

The last stage is checking the butt joints for liquid leaks and installing the pan in place. Check the oil level again and top up if necessary. At this point, changing the oil in a Peugeot 308 with your own hands can be considered successfully completed.

Let's sum it up

Changing the oil in the internal combustion engine of a Peugeot 308, despite some differences in procedures from similar work on other vehicles, is feasible for every car owner. As a result of independently changing the lubricant, the contractor will not only be able to significantly save on the services of service center employees, but also be confident that the procedure will be carried out in a high-quality manner. Don’t forget to write down the meter readings so you don’t miss the next scheduled fluid change.

Do-it-yourself engine oil change for a Peugeot 308 (Peugeot 308).

On a Peugeot 308 car, it is recommended to change the engine oil every 10 t.km.

To change the oil yourself, the first step is to remove the filler cap. The oil filter on this car is a cassette filter, that is, it is installed in a special housing on the engine. To change it, you need to remove the plastic cover, unscrew the clamp and remove the air intake housing.

Now we have access to the oil filter; to replace it we will need a 27mm socket with an extension and a wrench. The number of the non-original oil filter for the Peugeot 308 (Peugeot 308) is HU71151X from MANN.

After removal, you need to drain the remaining oil from the housing, install a new rubber sealing ring, lubricate it with oil and replace the filter element. And install it in place.

Using a hex wrench, unscrew the drain plug on the pan and drain the oil. After the oil has drained, screw the plug into place and pour oil into the engine.

The oil in the Peugeot 308 engine is filled with approximately 3.5 liters, but if you do not know the amount of oil to fill, you can do this. Feel free to fill in 2 - 2.5 liters of oil, and then add 100 - 200 gms and check the oil dipstick readings each time until the oil reaches the maximum mark on the dipstick.

After this, close the filler cap and start the engine; when the oil pressure light goes out, the engine can be turned off. And again we check the readings on the dipstick; as a rule, it will show the oil level we need, and this is slightly below the maximum or in the middle between maximum and minimum. Thus, you can completely perform car maintenance yourself.

Price information contained on the website is for informational purposes only. The indicated prices may differ from the actual prices of authorized official dealers and other car dealerships, different cities and regions of Moscow St. Petersburg, Astrakhan, Barnaul, Volgograd, Voronezh, Ekaterinburg, Izhevsk, Irkutsk, Kazan, Kaliningrad, Krasnodar, Krasnoyarsk, Naberezhnye Chelny, Nizhny Novgorod, Novosibirsk , Omsk, Orenburg, Perm, Rostov-on-Don, Samara, Saratov, Stavropol, Tolyatti, Tula, Tyumen, Ulyanovsk, Ufa, Chelyabinsk, Yaroslavl, etc.

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The Peugeot 308 replaced the already outdated 307 model in 2007. The hatchback had five doors, but later five- to seven-seat station wagons and convertibles also became available. From the choice, the buyer was presented with 1.4 and 1.6 petrol engines. The icing on the cake was a 1.6 turbocharged engine with 2 hundred horses. From the diesel “yard”, 1.6 and 2.0 powerful units were offered. The transmission also presented a wide choice of which there were manual, automatic and robotic gears.

In 2011, the first generation Peugeot 308 model range was restyled. Now available are 1.6 and 2.0 liter petrol models with manual and automatic transmissions. Production of the first generation lasted until 2013.

The second generation Peugeot 308 began production in 2013. Compared to the first generation, the choice of units was quite meager, then the car was presented with only one 1.6 liter engine.

Engine PSA (BMW) EP6 1.6 l/120 l. With.

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In 2005, the French manufacturer Peugeot-Citroen needed an engine for a robotic assembly line. Together with the BMW concern, a new EP series was designed, starting with a 1.6 liter naturally aspirated EP6 engine.

Initially, the engine used all the unique developments that existed at that time. To ensure output volumes of 2500 internal combustion engines daily from the conveyor, the manufacturer used an industrial production method. The Franciase De Mechanique assembly shop receives some parts from the BMW Group plant in the UK, while others are manufactured at PSA in Douvrin. Thanks to this, the management of the concern produces 2 motors every minute, every day.

Technical specifications EP6 1.6 l/120 l. With.

The main differences between the EP motor family are:

the connecting rod is made by double-sided forging;
crankshaft balancing without counterweights;
cooling jacket pressed into the cylinder block;
The cylinder head is cast without a mold using a special technology.

A new version of EP6 within this family was required for a number of reasons:

competitors have developed powerful internal combustion engines with improved characteristics;
the manufacturer PSA had a need for a universal power drive for minivans and crossovers, full-size sedans;
the needs of drivers with sporty and active driving styles and the harsh operating conditions of the Russian Federation and Eastern Europe were taken into account;
the cars received the latest automatic transmissions such as EGS6 and AT6;
environmental standards have risen to Euro 5.

The basic engine layout continues to be an inline four with port injection, overhead camshafts for 16 DOHC valves. To adjust the valve timing, the VTi mechanism was used - a German analogue of the Japanese VVTi (Toyota) and VTEC (Honda) systems.

Operating principle of the VTi mechanism

This made it possible to increase power and throttle response from mid-range speeds. Moreover, for the turbo version of the EP6DT engine, a new Twin-Scroll turbocharger was developed, a feature of which is the absence of turbo lag at low speeds.

The most important technical characteristics of EP6 are collected in the table below:

Manufacturer	P.S.A.
Engine brand	EP6
Years of production	2007 – …
Volume	1598 cm3 (1.6 l)
Power	88 kW (120 hp)
Torque moment	160 Nm (at 4200 rpm)
Weight	117 kg
Compression ratio	11,1
Nutrition	injector
Motor type	in-line petrol
Ignition	microprocessor, individual coils with electronic unit
Number of cylinders	4
Location of the first cylinder	TVE
Number of valves on each cylinder	4
Cylinder head material	aluminum alloy
Intake manifold	duralumin
An exhaust manifold	cast iron
Camshaft	cast iron, casting
Cylinder block material	Aluminium alloy
Cylinder diameter	77 mm
Pistons	original
Crankshaft	forged steel
Piston stroke	85.8 mm
Fuel	AI-95/98
Environmental standards	Euro 4
Fuel consumption	highway – 5.3 l/100 km combined cycle 6.6 l/100 km city – 8.9 l/100 km Read also: On June 24, traffic will be limited in the center and north-west of Moscow due to the Victory Parade with automatic transmission 20% more
Oil consumption	0.2 l/1000 km
What kind of oil to pour into the engine by viscosity	5W30, 5W40, 0W30, 0W40
Which engine oil is best by manufacturer	—
Oil for EP6 by composition	synthetics, semi-synthetics
Engine oil volume	4.2 l
Operating temperature	95°
ICE resource	declared 200,000 km actual 250,000 km
Adjustment of valves	hydraulic compensators
Cooling system	forced, antifreeze
Coolant volume	6.2 l
water pump	with plastic impeller 9801573380
Spark plugs for EP6	90223 NGK, VXUh32 Denso, 0242129512 Bosch, 5960.L0 PSA
Spark plug gap	1.1 mm
Valve train chain	Original V861831880 SWAG or Febi, analogue of TCH 1039 Dayco
Cylinder operating order	1-3-4-2
Air filter	MD-8498 Alco
Oil filter	1109 CK with check valve
Flywheel	cast iron with steel ring and starter toothed disc
Flywheel mounting bolts	M12x1.25 mm, length 26 mm
Valve stem seals	manufacturer Goetze
Compression	from 12 bar, in adjacent cylinders the difference is no more than 1 bar
XX speed	750 – 800 min-1
Tightening force of threaded connections	spark plug – 23 Nm flywheel – 8 Nm, 30 Nm + 90° clutch bolt – 19 – 30 Nm bearing cap – 30 Nm + 150° (main) and 50 Nm + 130° (connecting rod) cylinder head – three stages 20 Nm, 10 Nm + 90°

The manual contains step-by-step maintenance and repair actions, but some work requires special devices and professional tools. For example, not every service center will be able to replace the timing chain, precisely because of the lack of tools, which is a common problem with French cars.

Design Features

The atmospheric high-resource EP6 engine has the following design features:

adjustment of timing phases using the VTi mechanism by changing valve lift in the range of 0.2 - 9.5 mm and a time shift;
cooling jacket assembly integrated into the cylinder block;
DOHC timing mechanism to improve performance;
reduction in crankshaft weight, new manufacturing technology for connecting rods (double-sided forging) and cylinder head (casting without a mold);
improved attachments - pump and oil pump with adjustable capacity reduce fuel consumption and increase power, ensure high-quality and timely lubrication and coolant circulation;
adaptation for manual transmission with 5 steps BE4/5N and 4-range automatic adaptive Tiptronic System Porsche AL4, 6-speed MSM/V and automatic 6-range Aisin AT6 from Porsche.

Design of the gas distribution mechanism
The manufacturer recommends this engine for difficult operating conditions, that is, harsh climates, low-quality gasoline and oil in the Russian Federation. For French engines, a major overhaul with your own hands is most often impossible, since even specialized services do not always have the necessary devices and special tools.

Desiccant for repair EP6

The cooling and lubrication system is self-serviced. Even having a description of replacing the timing chain, it is very difficult to carry out the operation yourself, since you will need pullers and complex adjustment of the phase distribution.

List of internal combustion engine modifications

In addition to the basic naturally aspirated version EP6, there is a Turbo modification of the EP6DT engine or with the following characteristics:

1598 cm3 (1.6 l) volume;
150 l. s./110 kW power in the upper speed range 5800 min-1;
240 Nm of torque at low speeds 1400 min-1;
compression ratio 10.5 at boost pressure 0.8 bar.

Twin-Scroll turbocharger
The main difference is Direct Injection. It provides an air to gasoline ratio of 30/1 instead of the 15/1 of conventional multi-point injection. Loads on the SHPG and cylinders are reduced, fuel consumption is reduced, detonation is eliminated, and the exhaust is cleaner due to complete combustion.

Direct Injection circuit

There is only one phase shifter here - only on the intake camshaft; the phase width and valve lift height are not adjustable. The unit is controlled hydraulically, and a throttle valve integrated into the intake manifold is responsible for traction.

To cool the compressor, a special attachment is used - an intercooler. The Twin-Scroll turbocharger is equipped with two scrolls, which reduces the effect of turbo lag at low speeds. The compressor has its own cooling system, controlled by an individual processor, so after turning off the engine, this system remains operational for 10 minutes. There is a second designation for the turbo engine - 1.6 TRN.

Advantages and disadvantages

The above innovations in the design of internal combustion engines are advantages by default. However, even following the maintenance regulations, using high-quality lubricant and fuel with a high octane number, as recommended by the engine manufacturer, users have identified many shortcomings during operation:

The timing chain is single-row, stretches quickly, needs to be changed frequently, after 40 - 50 thousand mileage;
camshaft gears wear out after about 30,000 km, since the return spring inside them is too soft;
the nozzle is located in the center, the fuel torch does not hit the valves, carbon deposits form on them much faster than in vortex chambers, the knocking noise is often confused with the development of hydraulic compensators;
After 2011, the camshaft beds became polymer and wear out very quickly.

In other words, by adding complex mechanisms for adjusting valve timing, the manufacturer, on the one hand, improved performance, on the other, reduced the reliability of the system, and increased the cost of repairs and maintenance.

The undoubted advantages of the motor are:

the cylinder head is attached through a metal non-shrink gasket, leaks are impossible;
operational parameters were increased;
mechanical boost added torque in the mid-range;
Reduced gasoline and oil consumption.

Both overhauls and powertrain upgrades can be done in-house, guaranteed to add up to 50 hp. With. power.

List of car models in which it was installed

Both the naturally aspirated EP6 engine from PSA and its Turbo modification were used to equip a limited number of cars, despite the improved engine characteristics:

Peugeot 207 – two-door convertible, three-door hatchback and five-door station wagon;
Peugeot 308 – two-door coupe, three-door hatchback, four-door sedan and five-door station wagon;
Peugeot RCZ – compact sports car;
Peugeot 3008 – compact crossover;
Peugeot 5008 – compact car;
Citroen C4 – 3 – 5 door hatchback and 4 door sedan;
Citroen DS3 – three-door hatchback;
Mini Cooper is a subcompact station wagon.

The automaker MINI is currently a subsidiary of the BMW group.

Maintenance schedule EP6 1.6 l/120 l. With.

Since the internal combustion engine design is significantly different from previous series of Peugeot/Citroen power drives, the EP6 engine should be serviced according to an individual maintenance schedule:

The declared life of the timing chain is 150,000 km, the actual life is three times less, replacement is recommended after 50,000 mileage;
engine oil is involved in the operation of hydraulic valve thermal clearance compensators, so you need to use high-quality lubricant and change it every 7.5 thousand km (Turbo) or 10 thousand km (atmospheric EP6);
filters must be changed annually (air) and every 40,000 km (fuel);
Only antifreeze is used as a coolant, which loses its properties after 30,000 km;
crankcase ventilation is checked every 20 thousand km, cleaned as necessary;
spark plugs should be changed annually or at 20,000 km;
the service life of the battery is determined by the manufacturer depending on its design; recharging in winter can significantly increase it;
the exhaust manifold can burn out after 40 - 60 thousand km, depending on driving style.

All of the above measures, with the exception of replacing the timing chain, are available for independent implementation.

Review of faults and methods for repairing them

During many years of operation, the EP6 motor revealed the following malfunctions, characteristic exclusively of its design:

Lubricant leak	1) leakage of valve covers, oil gets into the spark plug wells, corrodes the tips of individual coils 2) wear of the gaskets of the solenoid valve or vacuum pump	1) the problem is solved by replacing the gasket 2) replacing the gaskets
The motor does not heat up	temperature sensor failure	sensor replacement
The engine “chokes”, fuel consumption increases	failure of valve timing adjustments	phase adjustment

A broken timing chain or jumping of its links leads to the piston bending the engine valve. The maintenance schedule under the factory warranty indicates an oil change period of 20,000 km. In practice, this is clearly not enough, so replacement should be made at least twice as often on a naturally-aspirated internal combustion engine and after 7.5 thousand on a turbocharged version of the engine.

Engine tuning options

The EP6 naturally aspirated engine can be boosted in the only way:

dismantling the first lambda probe;
“fake” instead of the second oxygen sensor.

Such tuning is considered flashing, that is, changing the software version of the on-board computer. Adds about 15 – 20 liters. pp., but reduces the environmental friendliness of the engine to Euro-2.

More often, tuning of the turbocharged modification EP6DT is used to obtain 320 Nm and 200 hp. pp., respectively:

installation of THP200 exhaust with a diameter of 63 mm;
use of a catalyst of the appropriate diameter;
transition to AI-98 gasoline;
ECU flashing.

Tuning the exhaust tract and exhaust system EP6DT
In addition to this, tuning can use the “evil” Etuners firmware, a DS3 or Ibiza Cupra intercooler from the Seat manufacturer, silicone pipes and aluminum intake tract pipes.

Thus, the EP6 motor belongs to the new family of PSA power drives. Used selectively, it has a turbocharged modification EP6DT for crossovers and minivans with an automatic transmission.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them. Don't forget to share this page with your friends and subscribe to our group

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Engine

Changing the engine oil is perhaps the most important event of all routine maintenance of the Peugeot 308. Important does not mean difficult, and you can see this for yourself.

When to change engine oil?

The manufacturer states that it is necessary to change the engine oil at intervals of 20 thousand km or once a season. However, in practice, many car owners perform maintenance at 10 thousand, and they are right in this. Indeed, in comparison with foreign countries, our quality of gasoline, road surface and many other factors that directly affect the duration and quality of operation of the unit are fundamentally different. For this reason, we also advise not to put off changing the oil (and cleaning filter) for too long.

What motor oil should I use?

Motor oils of viscosity grade SAE 0W-30 and 5W-30 with corresponding ACEA grades A3/B3, A3/B4 or A5/B5 and API SM.

How much to pour?

A complete replacement including the oil filter will be 4.25 liters.

How to change oil

First you need to prepare the necessary tools and consumables so that they are available at hand.

New oil;
Oil filter;
Rags;
Basin for ~ 5 l;
Key for removing protection (if necessary) and drain plug;

Warm up the cold engine for 3-4 minutes. Cold oil tends to flow poorly from the engine; as a result, a lot of dirty oil may remain, which you will eventually mix with new oil. This will degrade the performance of the new oil.
We put the car on jacks or on an inspection hole (ideal) for easy access to the bottom. Some models may have engine crankcase “protection” installed. It needs to be removed to access the drain plug.
Unscrew the filler cap and remove the oil dipstick. The oil drains faster if there is a through hole.
We substitute a basin or any other container that can hold 5 liters of waste.
We unscrew the drain plug with a wrench (it is better if the ratchet wakes it up). It is best to immediately expect that the oil will be hot. At this stage of work you need to be most careful.
After completely draining the old dirty oil, which is black in color, remove the basin to the side.
An optional item is flushing the engine with a special flushing liquid. You will be surprised at the black oil that comes out with this liquid. This liquid is very easy to use. We fill it into the engine, after tightening the drain plug of course. We start the car for 3-5 minutes. At the same time, we drive and heat our liquid on an old oil filter. Afterwards, we turn it off and pour it into a free container.
We replace the oil filter with a new one. Before installing the new filter, pour about 100 g of fresh oil into it and also lubricate the rubber O-ring on it.
Fill in new oil. Having made sure that the drain plug is screwed in and a new oil filter is installed, we can begin to fill in new oil using the dipstick as a guide. The level should be between the minimum and maximum marks. Also, you need to remember that after the first start of the engine, some oil will leave and the level will drop.
Recheck the oil level using the dipstick after the first start. Let the engine idle for about 10 minutes.

Oil filter

An important component in the lubrication system of any car. Motor oil lubricates the rubbing parts and the oil filter holds and in this way cleans this oil from metal chips and other impurities that remain during the process.

When should you change the filter?

Each filter must be replaced along with changing the engine oil. They must be considered one mechanism and must also be serviced together. Recommendation for replacement every 10-15 thousand km or once a year.

Which filter should you choose?

Engine oil EP-6 - logbook Peugeot 308 SW ஜSilver CATஜ 2009 on DRIVE2

I recently did an engine flush, decoking of the piston rings and changing the valve stem seals.

At the same time, I changed the oil from Total Quartz ineo ecs 5w30 to ELF Evolution 900 FT 0W30 as an analogue of Total First ineo 0W30, because in our blue-eyed country things are difficult with this total. Then I discovered a white coating on the oil filler cap (see post in my blog above). Opinions about the origin are more inclined towards the outside air temperature and condensate, but there is also an opinion, and it haunts me, that 0W30 oil cannot be poured into cars with mileage above 100,000 km because It’s not good for the engine (this is what worries me most), to put it mildly, and this oil can form such an emulsion. My previous car, which lived on the street, did not have this problem. At the same time, StatOil 10W40 oil was poured. Yes, it doesn’t seem dangerous and this happens to many people, but I want to see my engine without any emulsion. After all, its formation worsens the properties of the oil itself, because The emulsion is not only water, but impurities from the oil and, as a result, can affect the health of the engine. I'm tempted to refill Total Quartz ineo ecs 5w30. Here, as they say, ATTENTION QUESTION for oil pumps, oil specialists and other savvy car enthusiasts: don't worry or should you change the oil?

Added to the discussion of the problem:

Mileage: 124850 km

www.drive2.ru

Power steering (power steering)

Power steering helps you turn the steering wheel along with the wheels, while you spend several times less force than a car without a power steering system.

There are marks on the power steering expansion tank by which you can understand whether the fluid level is currently high or, conversely, low and needs to be added. A quick inspection of the power steering system can solve many problems along the way, so look under the hood once a month.

What should you pay attention to?

Monitoring the power steering fluid (oil) level and its color in the expansion tank;
Checking the drive belt for the power steering pump;
General condition of hoses (inspection for cracks, abrasions and chips);
Hose connection points.

How to change

Changing the power steering fluid (oil) can be done in several ways, including partially changing the fluid and completely changing it. The first method is faster and easier, the second is better.

Partial replacement

Partial replacement of power steering fluid involves pumping fluid out of the power steering expansion tank using a large syringe or bulb. After the tank is completely empty, fill in fresh fluid to the maximum mark. Start the car and turn the steering wheel left/right. After a few minutes, turn off the engine and check the color of the power steering fluid. If it is too dark, repeat the procedure until the desired result.

Complete replacement

To replace the power steering fluid, remove the air duct and the reservoir with power steering fluid. Pour the old liquid from the barrel into another container. When draining, pay attention to the condition of the old oil and the presence of foreign metal particles. If they are noticeable, this may indicate wear on the pump. To completely drain the power steering, you can rotate the steering wheel left and right.

Oil pressure sensor

If the oil pressure sensor lights up on a Peugeot 308, then a fascinating set of checks of the engine and individual components awaits you. What could cause the sensor to light up?

Low level of oil pressure in the engine. The simplest option is to check the dipstick, if you add too little to the required level.
Oil too old. Look at the color of the oil, rub it with your fingers (you should feel oily). If the oil is too old, it is better to change it to a new one.
Oil pump malfunction.
The oil pressure sensor has failed. If you checked the previous steps and nothing helped, check the sensor itself. A visual inspection will help determine the external condition of the device. If necessary, replace with a new one. It happens that the sensor is covered in oil, this may indicate that the leak is coming through the sensor. Of course, such a part must be replaced immediately.

How to replace

Replacing the sensor does not require much effort. At the rear of the cylinder block (where the unit number is indicated), press the wire lock and remove the terminal. The sensor itself is unscrewed with a key x 22. When installing a new sensor, make sure that there is a sealing washer.

Combating EP6 engine oil consumption. — logbook of Peugeot 308 2008 on DRIVE2

Hello everyone! I bought a car and after a while I was dumbfounded by the wad’s appetite for engine oil - about 800 grams per thousand km! Fortunately, there is an oil level sensor, and even the fist of friendship is not far away. -((In short, I read thematic forums. They write standard things: caps, oil scraper rings, etc. The previous owner said that he bought the car with 43 thousand mileage and it was already consuming oil . He says that a year ago (at about 80 thousand km) he changed the caps and it didn’t help. I thought - how can this be? Oil doesn’t flow anywhere, there’s no blue smoke, where does it go? First, we put a mesh in the crankcase ventilation hose on coming out of the valve covers, this usually helps - we take an ordinary metal kitchen brush, cut it to the size of the hose and install it. It didn’t help. I decided on global measures - I bought gaskets, caps, oil seals, piston rings (expensive, damn - 10 thousand a set for the engine, but there is no non-original one), a timing repair kit (I took SWAG, it costs 6500), etc. We opened the engine. We were surprised at the cleanliness of the engine (a slight yellow coating, people before me drove Eneos, I use Mobil 1). Complete disassembly finally revealed the hero of the occasion - a huge ellipse cylinders (about 0.16-0.17 mm with a maximum tolerance of 0.04 mm), the honing grid on the cylinders is completely erased. The pistons are in good condition. The strange thing is that the engine did not knock with such a gap, even when cold. I sat down to look for repair pistons - hell, there is nothing! By the way, a standard piston for our engine costs 15 kilo rubles apiece! With such prices, I felt like the owner of a Tuareg.-)) They offered to sleeve the block. The sleeves fit 76 mm from the VAZ-2103. The good thing is that the original sleeves pressed into the aluminum block did not have to be completely machined out; the wall remained about 2 mm. Vazovskie ones were pressed into original liners, then they were bored out to the size of our pistons, the cylinder block was milled and that’s all. By the way, in order to correctly assemble the timing belt, we had to make a special device for fixing the camshafts; manufacturing cost 3 thousand rubles, and the original tool costs 14 thousand.- ))

We assembled it, ran it in different modes for 2 thousand km, I drive it while the flight is normal, after three thousand the level dropped a couple of millimeters (I attribute this to the lapping of the rings).

This photo shows a VAZ-2103 liner pressed into the original cylinder. There is a piece of VAZ in every foreign car.-))

The motor is quite clean. Thanks to the previous owners for using good oil and changing it on time.

The pistons are slightly worn, but not out of nominal size.

Price: 45,000 ₽ Mileage: 99,700 km

www.drive2.ru

How much oil to fill (filling volumes)

Glass washer reservoir - 4.5 l;
Hydraulic drive of the brake system (clutch release) - filled to the MAX level (brake fluid DOT-3 or DOT-4);
Automatic transmission - 2 l (ATF LT 71141);
Manual gearbox - 1.9 l (Gear oil classification according to API GL-4, SAE 75W-80);
Power steering amplifier - DEXRONII / DEXRON III (add as needed);
Cooling system - 6 l (Coolant);
Engine lubrication system - 4.25 (SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30 and 5W-40, quality ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 or A5/B5 and API SM);
Fuel tank 60 l.

Car enthusiasts are often interested in exactly how much oil should be in the engine. The answer to this question depends on many factors, parameters and operating conditions. All parameters relating to this consumable are closely interrelated, and therefore it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail. Let's do this using the example of choosing oil for the popular Peugeot 308 hatchback.

The manufacturer advises changing the engine oil according to the regulations, which for the Peugeot 308 is 15 thousand kilometers. But Russian motorists, and especially fans of the Peugeot brand, prefer to fill in oil before this time. This is due to the difficult climatic conditions in our country. Thus, in European countries with a favorable weather climate, you can only follow the manufacturer’s instructions, since in such conditions the oil service life is quite long. Russian owners of the Peugeot 308, on the contrary, will have to proceed more from practical considerations. The fact is that in Russia you can encounter absolutely any peculiarities of road and climatic factors. In addition, motorists often violate operating conditions themselves. Here are a few signs that may require more frequent oil changes:

Speeding, failure to comply with traffic rules
Frequent driving on bad and dusty roads, including off-road
Constant temperature changes, dirt and slush on the roads, evaporation
Sudden maneuvers, high engine speeds, engine overheating, etc.

Any of these signs can negatively affect the frequency of oil changes, and at the same time the service life of the engine. In such cases, it is advisable to change the oil no later than after 5 thousand kilometers. This is the most optimal regulation, under which the oil will not have time to lose its beneficial properties and will protect the engine from overheating. In addition, with more frequent oil changes due to the above symptoms, it is strongly recommended to monitor the volume and condition of consumables as often as possible.

Self-replacement

As already mentioned, the manufacturer recommends changing the oil in Peugeot 308 engines after one year of operation or twenty thousand kilometers. However, in severe operating conditions, such as large cities or very dusty areas, it is advisable to change the oil and filter after every six months or ten thousand kilometers.

This will require the following materials and tools:

directly motor oil;
clean cloth;
oil filter;
a container with a volume of at least 5 liters into which the old lubricant will be drained;
hex wrench “8”;
socket head “27”.

Oil filter Peugeot 308
The manufacturer recommends for use in the Peugeot 308 car oils whose quality level is at least API SJ or SL, ACEA A3/ B4, ILSAC GF-3. The viscosity grade of the lubricant should be SAE 0W-30 or 5W-30.

The old oil must be drained after the trip, without waiting for the engine to cool down. In the case of a cold engine, it is first started and warmed up to operating temperatures. It is recommended to fill the car with the same brand of lubricant that was previously used in the engine. If you decide to change the brand or type of lubricant, it is necessary to flush the lubrication system using oil of the brand that you plan to use in the future:

first of all, drain the old oil fluid;
pour new oil until it reaches the lower hole on the dipstick;
start the engine and let it idle for about ten minutes;
drain the oil and only then replace the oil filter;
Now you can start filling new oil to the required level.

Every car owner carefully and creatively approaches the issue of choosing engine oil, despite any instructions from the manufacturer. Firstly, you can save money, and secondly, increase service life, power and reduce oil consumption. This is from the owner's point of view. For the Peugeot 308, the issue of choosing engine oil was resolved a long time ago, as were the consumption rates and, especially, the volume. Let's look at these issues in more detail.

Checking the volume and condition

For this procedure, you will need a dipstick located in the engine compartment of the car. We pull it out and look at the fluid level. It is important that the fluid level is between the Max and Min marks, which are shown on the dipstick. Any deviation from this norm will require level adjustment. For example, if the level is insufficient (when the fluid is below the Min mark), you will have to add a little fluid, or vice versa - in case of overflow, you will have to drain a little oil, but to do this you will have to crawl under the car.

If cloudiness or a specific odor is detected, we can conclude that the oil has become unusable and needs to be replaced. The situation can become more complicated if the damaged consumable contains traces of mechanical wear, such as soot, dirt and metal shavings.

How much to fill

Let's consider the total amount of oil to be filled depending on the engine displacement, and separately for each year of production of the Peugeot 308:

1.2, PureTech, petrol, HMZ HNY, 82-130 l. With.

How much to fill - 3.5 liters
Year of manufacture – since 2013

1.4 16V VTi EP3 (8FS R), petrol, 95-98 l. With.

How much to fill - 4.2 liters
Year of production – 2007-2013

1.6 16V VTi, EP6 (5FW), 120-125 l. With.

How much to fill - 4.2 liters
Year of production – 2007-2013

1.6 THP, petrol, 5FA 5FV, 125-156 l. With.

How much to fill - 4.2 liters
Year of manufacture – since 2013

1.6 HDi, diesel, 9HV 9HX, 90 l. With.

How much to fill - 3.7 liters
Year of manufacture – 2007-2010

1.6 HDI, 9HV 9HX, 92 l. With.

How much to fill - 3.7 liters
Year of manufacture – since 2010

1.6 HDi, diesel, 9HR, 112 l. With.

How much to fill - 3.7 liters
Year of production – 2010-2013

1.6 HDI, diesel, 9HZ 9HY, 110 l. With.

How much to fill - 3.7 liters
Year of production – 2007-2013

1.6 e-HPi, 9HC (BHZ), 116 l. With.

How much to fill - 3.7 liters
Year of manufacture – since 2013

2.0 HDi, diesel, RHR (DV10), 136-163 l. With.

How much to fill - 5.2 liters
Year of production – 2007-2013

It is important to note here that the dealership performs a comprehensive engine flush to remove old oil residues, and only after that the specified volume of oil is added. This procedure is quite feasible at home, but without the use of special equipment. So, for this it is necessary to drain and refill the oil several times, at intervals of 500-600 kilometers. The fluid must be changed until the black color of the oil changes to a transparent color - this will mean that the flushing procedure has been completed successfully, and then you can fill in fresh oil in full.

Choosing oil for Peugeot 308

When choosing engine oil, you should proceed from the official parameters specified in the instructions or on the label of the original oil. For example, one of the most important parameters is the degree of temperature viscosity 5W-30, which is best suited for the Peugeot 308 engine and Russian weather conditions.

As for analogue oils, you need to choose only from proven brands with a good reputation. For example, some of these companies include: Castrol, Lukoil, Rosneft, G-Energy, Mobil, Kixx, Valvoline and others.